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View Full Version : Decals, Gauges, and Metal Flake


ktrusty
02-27-2014, 09:32 AM
It's been a long time since I have posted on here. I mainly do a lot of reading instead. I wanted to update my long drawn out restoration project.

Boat:
1976 S&S Red, White, & Blue

I have rebuilt the engine, carb, stringers, carpet, etc. and am now working on electrical and cosmetics. This week I started replacing all the wiring in the dash, and wanted an opinion on where I need to have fuses at. (Previously, only the lights, and power form the ammeter to the ignition had fuses.) I am using the attached circuit diagram as a guide.

Before:
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After:
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Edit: I wasn't quite done here, I did finish heat shrinking everything

The next time I work on the electrical, I want to get the alternator replaced, but for now I think this will work much better.

Next issue, I need advice on replacing the decal above the swim platform. (working on that as well)
106699

I know Jim has lots of decals, haven't read about anyone replacing this particular one. That's all for now, later I will get into the gelcoat and platform.


And other pictures,

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106698

mikeg205
02-27-2014, 10:07 AM
We sadly lost Jim just a bit ago. I can provide you with those decals - PM for details if your interested.

The stern decal can be easily created....

Thatsmrmastercraft changed his recently.

mike

thatsmrmastercraft
02-27-2014, 11:42 AM
We sadly lost Jim just a bit ago. I can provide you with those decals - PM for details if your interested.

The stern decal can be easily created....

Thatsmrmastercraft changed his recently.

mike

All decals from Mike. Just have stars on my stern, but would really like to do something more.

mikeg205
02-27-2014, 12:49 PM
I believe I can generate and alphabet and even numbers...

cbryan70
02-27-2014, 12:54 PM
Just a FYI that bar on the pylon will come out....lube it up and beat it out. They go back in alot easier than they come out.

mikeg205
02-27-2014, 12:58 PM
Just a FYI that bar on the pylon will come out....lube it up and beat it out. They go back in alot easier than they come out.

uhhhh.... never mind... ;)

cbryan70
02-27-2014, 12:59 PM
uhhhh.... never mind... ;)

:rolleyes::D Haaa just read what I wrote...he will get the point.....I think :o

thatsmrmastercraft
02-27-2014, 01:00 PM
Just a FYI that bar on the pylon will come out....lube it up and beat it out. They go back in alot easier than they come out.

Getting it started is the tough part. Takes a couple good whacks with someone bracing the pylon from the other side.

ktrusty
02-27-2014, 02:33 PM
Mike, the ones you did for Thatsmrmastercraft look good, I think I would want to stick with the "Regional Towboat" decal, I think the back looks better with it than just stars. I know I should take the pylon out, I should be done under the floor for a while after this weekend. I've had it out before, lube always helps. :P

Any advice on what to put fuses on?

thatsmrmastercraft
02-27-2014, 03:03 PM
I would think you would want all circuits protected by fuses. My '77 has fuses for everything. I know I have pics of the fuseblock but can't find them. When I find them, I will post them.

I do have another wiring diagram though I don't know what years this covers. Essentially the same thing you already have.

Are you a facebook guy? The Mastercraft Project there is specifically for '68 - '85 boats with some guys that are really sharp regarding '76 and older boats.

ktrusty
02-27-2014, 03:34 PM
That's a good point, I am on FB, just haven't been on there in a while.

thatsmrmastercraft, I thought about getting the block with fuses, sounds like that's what you did. That would be great if you could post a pic of what you've got, I could at least put in-line fuses on. I forgot to post a pic of the speedos, these turned out great thanks to classic boat work (http://classicboatwork.com).

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mikeg205
02-27-2014, 03:36 PM
those look awesome!

thatsmrmastercraft
02-27-2014, 03:56 PM
I haven't replaced my original fuse block yet, but it is on the list for this spring. Those speedometers look great. Classic Boat Works does top notch work.

ktrusty
02-28-2014, 03:10 PM
So here is the update,

I have almost everything back together on the wiring. I changed the way my lights are wired, before the gauges were lit when the engine was running. I made a "harness" for all the bulbs to wire to my navigation lights. (Makes sense that lights are on when my navigation lights are.) I am almost done with all the electrical that I want to accomplish for this season, and I am ready to do some decal removal. I bought the 3M decal removal wheel and will be doing that this weekend. I am in the Nashville area, and Stones River Fiberglass is where I am taking the boat to get the gelcoat brought back to life. They did a great job on my parents maristar, and they really know their stuff.

I want to also get my platform back in shape while its off the boat. I started sanding it with 80, and will finish with 180 grit. Everyone always asks the question, how much do I sand? So, I am curious, I was planning on removing all the gray colored wood before starting the cleaning process. Is that a good idea, or does it just need to be smooth?

And here are the pictures:
Light harness for the gauges
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Everything is back in place, I mounted this under the dash, right where the windshield is attached.
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Much better!
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ktrusty
03-04-2014, 09:57 PM
Finally got the decals sorted out with Mike, he did a great job of matching the rear decal on mine. I have now turned my attention to the flake.... I'm a bit stumped here. I know that the flake is exposed on the back, and the sides are not much better. My options are limited at this point. From what I have read on AmericanskierJim's LTD thread, I think I need to put clearcoat on it. Portions of the flake are very silver, like the back. I am wondering if it is even salvageable. If I can put clearcoat on it, what should I do to prep it?

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But enough of the doom and gloom, check out this nice swim platform!

First Coat
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3rd Coat!
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dt37803
03-04-2014, 10:00 PM
Love the teak!

mikeg205
03-04-2014, 10:09 PM
Finally got the decals sorted out with Mike, he did a great job of matching the rear decal on mine. I have now turned my attention to the flake.... I'm a bit stumped here. I know that the flake is exposed on the back, and the sides are not much better. My options are limited at this point. From what I have read on AmericanskierJim's LTD thread, I think I need to put clearcoat on it. Portions of the flake are very silver, like the back. I am wondering if it is even salvageable. If I can put clearcoat on it, what should I do to prep it?

106917

But enough of the doom and gloom, check out this nice swim platform!

First Coat
106911

3rd Coat!
106912


there's always vinyl flake wrap.. if you can't salvage what's there.. FDC, Avery, and other brands have many colors.

and you can place decals on the flake vinyl

mike

ktrusty
03-04-2014, 11:02 PM
Love the teak!

I know, it turned out great!

there's always vinyl flake wrap.. if you can't salvage what's there.. FDC, Avery, and other brands have many colors.

and you can place decals on the flake vinyl

mike

Actually Mike I was thinking about going this route, but I have heard the vinyl doesn't have as much depth. Do you have any opinion on it?

mikeg205
03-04-2014, 11:11 PM
I know, it turned out great!



Actually Mike I was thinking about going this route, but I have heard the vinyl doesn't have as much depth. Do you have any opinion on it?

I would say yes.. when some one is right up at the boat if you are looking close.. what are your plans... show the boat or enjoy it... or both

ktrusty
03-04-2014, 11:22 PM
Mike, I'd have to say mainly for enjoyment, we all love the water.

I usually don't wear jeans on the water, but we were taking engagement photos. :D
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mikeg205
03-04-2014, 11:27 PM
Mike, I'd have to say mainly for enjoyment, we all love the water.

I usually don't wear jeans on the water, but we were taking engagement photos. :D
106945

that is an awesome picture.. the vinyl will be more than enough... focus on that bride to be... :D

Towboatcapt
03-04-2014, 11:51 PM
Great looking picture, beautiful boat, Dog, and Mrs.

TRBenj
03-05-2014, 08:26 AM
I would not go to the trouble and expense of installing vinyl. If you dont care to have a show boat finish, then just use it as-is.

If you want to try a proper repair, then it would be helpful to know how the boat was built in the first place. I believe the color and metal flake are contained in the same gelcoat layer. I dont know if there are additional color layers below the flake. On top, there is some sort of clear... some say it is paint, but my guess is that it's gel. Perhaps someone with some MC-specific experience can comment on how the factory laid the color on.

Since you have exposed flake, then the clear over the top needs to be reshot. If you also have some oxidation and/or color fade in the stripe that youre trying to fix, then sanding further would be required. How deep the fade and oxidation extends will determine what it will require to bring the look back once youre done sanding.

Good luck!

gtbutler
03-05-2014, 11:47 AM
+!1 on TRBenj and mikeg205!

From my "old school" days and methodologies with regards to metal flake (I remember shooting clear lacquers using a siphon gun and I was well into my teen's when the first owner put your S&S in the water for he first time) the process went as follows:

Metalflake 101
1. Shoot the basecoat color
2. While the last colorcoat was still wet shoot the metal flake (you are actually attempting to get the metal flakes to "stand on end" vs. "laying flat" by manipulating the air pressure on the gun, remember you're going for 3-D).
3. Follow with Clear coats

The whole process was to give the paint "depth" and a 3-D look and feel. Literally need "paint thickness" that provides refraction to the light as it travels through the layers of the paint and reflects off the metal flake.

All that being said, you don't want to sand those "exposed flakes." Yes, you may be removing some oxidation (since TRBenj is probably correct in saying they had the color and flake in the same gelcoat and there is no clearcoat) but sanding will also be "dulling" the metal flakes and they will loose some "luster."
To bring the "finish" back to life, I'd clearcoat it. Today's finishes are really nice, and they make some REALLY nice clearcoats. Clearcoating may also "smooth" the surface a little, should you choose to decal the boat at a future date.
To prep the boat, the MOST IMPORTANT thing is that the surface is clean! Remove all wax and oils by using Prepsol, Pre-Kleano, etc. (your Automotive Paint Supply store will have this), you wipe the stuff on and wipe it off . Use clean papertowels for each wipe on and wipe off, plain white paper towels with nothing on them (no ink, no hand softner, etc), summon your inner MCOCD here, you want the surface clean. Then wet sand with 400 grit or higher (you are only sanding to prep the surface for the clearcoat to "adhere" to). Then clean it again with Prepsol/Pre-Kleano. You clean it first, since sanding will actually "push" the oils/waxes into the surface. You clean it after sanding since you need it clean prior to clearcoating.
Remeber, most "multi-stage" paints (base coat/clear coat, pearls, etc) the base coat of paint is actually dull or flat. It is the multiple clearcoats that bring the paint to life...
Clearcoat the metalflake and that boat will look GREAT.

Just my $.02 ....

TRBenj
03-05-2014, 12:09 PM
It sounds like your experience is with auto finishes? A boat would have been sprayed in reverse (clear-metalflake-color) as the mold is finished from the outside in.

If he cant safely sand off the oxidation or fade without ruining the metal flake (this is how you restore "normal" gel), then he may be stuck. I assume his intention was to restore the original color and finish as close as possible, and judging by the different color hidden below the decals, it'll take a bit of sanding to get there. Clear coating, whether gel or paint, over the existing stripe will only restore shine, not color.

gtbutler
03-05-2014, 12:42 PM
TR. I've done much more auto than boat. And you are 100% correct about the boat molding process (you did remind me of that, brainf@rt on my part).
My point about the sanding was that you attemp to remove/damage as little of the metal flake as possible during the "restoration" process (where ever the metalflake resides in the existing finish, just try not to damage it) . Again, you're 100% "spot on" about the fade (the sun is going to "make" its own custom colors over time). Clearcoating will restore the shine, and may bring that metalflake new life . I was assuming he was going for shine and that new decals would cover the faded areas.

ktrusty
03-05-2014, 01:56 PM
I assume his intention was to restore the original color and finish as close as possible, and judging by the different color hidden below the decals, it'll take a bit of sanding to get there. Clear coating, whether gel or paint, over the existing stripe will only restore shine, not color.

Tanks TRBenj that is the logic I was looking for. Everything I have read on other sites only discuss how to spray clearcoat on metal flake. There doesn't seem to be a discussion on getting the right color, and then spraying clearcoat. My hope is this week to take it to a fiberglass repair shop and see what they recommend. Eventually I will redo the entire gel coat, but my budget isn't that high yet. The past repairs have all been to get the darn thing running, but now I have turned to cosmetic issues. :cool:

eriksen4
03-05-2014, 02:28 PM
I had a 18' Baja with blue metal flake that was doing the same thing as yours. I taped off and my neighbor (skilled in auto painting) sprayed it with two coats of clear and it was unbelievable. Sold the boat two years later for my first inboard (SN2001) at it was still holding strong.

ktrusty
03-05-2014, 04:53 PM
My point about the sanding was that you attemp to remove/damage as little of the metal flake as possible during the "restoration" process. I was assuming he was going for shine and that new decals would cover the faded areas.

gt, I really like the walk through you gave. I think moving forward, I will try a section and see if I can coax some life out of it. The new decals will go over the dark blue areas. I stripped the boat with the intention of getting new decals, and the cracks and chips fixed. (Originally it also included the more typical clearcoat oxidation repair, but that is going to be difficult with the state the flake is in now.) I don't want to give up completely on it, but I also want a finished result that will last. When I bought the boat I had to get it running again, then I proposed to my fiance in it, and taught her how to run the course using it. Needless to say, I plan on keeping it. :)

Eventually when I have some money, I can get the whole gel redone, but for now I'm looking at salvaging (if possible) what I have. If this weekend I can't get any good results, I may wrap it for now and come back to it. Mike can attest that I like things to be just right, and won't let it go until they are! ;)

TRBenj
03-05-2014, 07:22 PM
In that case, I dont think I would spray any type of clear over the gel in an attempt at a quick fix. Throw some new decals on it and keep a generous coat of wax on it at all times, and it shouldnt deteriorate any further.

When youre ready to spend the time and money to fix it for real, then sand until the fade and oxidation is gone. If that damages the metal flake, then have it resprayed (in gel) and then clear coated like it originally was from the factory- probably gel as well.

At least that's what I'd do if the boat were mine, and I planned on keeping it!

jameyallen116
03-21-2014, 09:07 PM
Need decals for pro star 190 1987 anybody?