PDA

View Full Version : Ballast System Install


Footin
02-01-2014, 02:53 PM
I have started the ballast system install on my 2007 200VRS and I thought I would share in case anyone else was pondering the idea:

I started by ordering a set of factory gauges and breaker/relay box from Great Lakes Skipper. This was new and was slated for a 2006 230. I wanted this set up for two reasons, 1. No timers and 2. I would look fairly factory.

Here is a picture of what came with it. The gauges/switch panel, wiring harness and relay/breaker box.

Footin
02-01-2014, 02:56 PM
I started last night by installing the gauge/switch panel, running all the wires, extending the battery harness, mounting the relay/breaker box and picking fiberglass splinters out of my hands and arms.

Here is what the area next to the dash looked like before:

Footin
02-01-2014, 02:57 PM
And with the panel installed:

Footin
02-01-2014, 02:58 PM
I mounted the relay/breaker box in the port locker on the back of the seat. This is where some of the factory models put it and it worked the best with the harness I had:

Footin
02-01-2014, 02:59 PM
Harness wiring ready to connect to the pumps in the factory locations on the transom.

Footin
02-01-2014, 03:04 PM
That's about all I can do until the rest of my stuff gets here. I placed a nice order with Wake Makers yesterday:
750 Sacs for the rear compartments
690 X2 Sac for under the bow seats
3 Johnson pumps
3 thru hulls and ball valves
3 vents
65 feet of 1" ballast hose

BTW: WakeMakers are AWESOME to deal with!

rek
02-01-2014, 04:00 PM
Sweet will be following this thread!

TOO-TALL
02-01-2014, 04:04 PM
Awesome.....looks good so far

CantRepeat
02-01-2014, 05:37 PM
Did you order some deutsch connector to the pump leads and run to your pumps?

I have the connectors and the $200 pliers for the ends. If you want I can make you three pigtails and send them to you. In return just send the the female deutsch connectors and the green inserts. I have a bunch of the leads.

You'd still end up either soldering the leads or using but connectors. I know the leads on the pumps aren't normally long enough to just put the deutsch connector on the pump leads.

Footin
02-01-2014, 05:46 PM
Did you order some deutsch connector to the pump leads and run to your pumps?

I have the connectors and the $200 pliers for the ends. If you want I can make you three pigtails and send them to you. In return just send the the female deutsch connectors and the green inserts. I have a bunch of the leads.

You'd still end up either soldering the leads or using but connectors. I know the leads on the pumps aren't normally long enough to just put the deutsch connector on the pump leads.

Thanks for the offer, I will let you know as I have not decided what to do yet, I do have weatherproof spade crimp connectors I could use.....just have not decided yet.
Someone told me you can install the deutsch connecters with a punch and not use the $200 tool? The only pump that will need wire added to the harness is the starboard one, the other two have long enough leads.

CantRepeat
02-01-2014, 05:54 PM
I guess you could try and just fold them over. The tool just does the fold and curl back on both tangs at once.

http://quickcar.net/sc_images/products/1078_large_image.jpg

The thing about the deutsch connectors is they are water tight. Where I needed to extend the pump leads I soldered and then used double shrink wrap on them.

CantRepeat
02-01-2014, 05:55 PM
The relay box fits nicely where you have it. That's where mine is factory.

KnoxX2
02-01-2014, 10:03 PM
It's about time you got some work done on that boat!!!! I can't wait to ride behind it this summer.

Footin
02-01-2014, 10:20 PM
It's about time you got some work done on that boat!!!! I can't wait to ride behind it this summer.

Only if you were a Buckeye Jersey. :D

bturner2
02-02-2014, 09:22 AM
Nice work. I'd go for the connectors. If you ever have to swap out pumps it'll be easier to do on the water.

JMLVMI
02-02-2014, 12:58 PM
Very cool...love the fact you're using OEM parts. Planning on doing the same with the heater button (swapping out an ACC button) and armrest plate filler from GLS.

KnoxX2
02-02-2014, 02:49 PM
Only if you were a Buckeye Jersey. :D

Not on your life!!!!!:D However I will have gas money and beer!8p

Footin
02-18-2014, 06:57 PM
UPS brought me a big box from WakeMakers today! Hopefully I can get some more done this weekend.

Footin
02-21-2014, 05:11 PM
I have started to lay out some of the parts. I started by making a simulated mount out of a piece of scrap wood to check for clearances for the valves and thru hulls and also to verify the hole saw size. This made it easy to assemble the parts in the bilge area.
The rear valve will feed the starboard bag and the front will feed the bow bag.

Footin
02-21-2014, 05:15 PM
I found something kind of interesting when I was looking at the pump mounting blocks, I was going to pre drill and screw the Johnson pumps to the transom blocks until I noticed right above the bocks are the thru hull bolted rear tie up hooks and this got me thinking.......no way would these be the same bolt pattern as the pumps??????

Footin
02-21-2014, 05:20 PM
PERECT FIT!!!!!!! I know I can only bolt down one side (2 bolts), but this has to be as strong as 4 wood screws??? and makes the pumps easier to remove. I will try it (and monitor) to see if they are sturdy enough but for now this is how I will proceed.

Tonight I will wire the pumps.

Tomorrow, I will run the hose to the front bag. I need to do this first to determine which side to place the front pump. Once this is done I can start the drill for the thru hulls.

CantRepeat
02-21-2014, 05:22 PM
One very critical point about doing through holes, it's in a lot of the write ups.

Also just drill the pilot holes first without the hole saw attached. Then leave the bit in the hole and check inside and out for clearance. If you need to move the hole you have at least the size of the hole saw to do it.

CantRepeat
02-21-2014, 05:26 PM
I don't think the bolts will line up. I made a little SS bracket to mount a pump next to them.

http://mikesell.net/images/boat/ballast/ball4.jpg

Footin
02-21-2014, 05:32 PM
Nice plate Tim, the Jabsco must have a different mounting pattern. When I found out that mine would bolt up with the 2 nuts, I thought this was better than mounting with 4 wood screws. Time will tell I guess, but it sure is easier to mount and remove if needed.

Footin
02-21-2014, 05:36 PM
This is what the mounting bracket of the pump looks like:

rgardjr1
02-21-2014, 07:09 PM
Good job with your project! I bought a used Duestch crimper on Ebay and resold it a few weeks later when I needed one to replace a speedo on my motorcycle. The Duestch sockets and pins that came with mine were hollow and the wires just slid inside. I think I could have just soldered them, but I bought and resold the crimping tool. There are the other style that have tabs that fold over and those would be difficult to do with out the right tool-it sounds like Tim has you covered and you could butt splice or solder and heat shrink. I just remembered that one of my winter projects is to swap out the relay for my center pump in the breaker box. I was having to tap on the box last summer to get it to turn on.

CantRepeat
02-21-2014, 07:32 PM
This is what the mounting bracket of the pump looks like:

Yeah that plate is a lot different.

Sweet that it fit on there with no fuss!!

Footin
02-22-2014, 07:55 PM
Made a lot of headway today:

Got both rear pumps mounted and wired. Mounted the bow sac pump under the rear seat and got it wired also.

Footin
02-22-2014, 07:56 PM
Next I got the bow sac pumped and hooked up.

Footin
02-22-2014, 07:59 PM
One of the more difficult things was putting a "Y" fitting it the bow supply line. I did this thinking it would help the wrap around bow sac fill and drain more evenly (feeding both sides of the sac). It was kinda tuff to install the fitting in the bilge access.

Footin
02-23-2014, 04:43 PM
Got the three holes drilled, the fittings glued in and all three ball valves installed.

Footin
02-23-2014, 04:46 PM
That's all for this weekend. Next weekend I should be able to finish the hoses and drill and install the vent fittings.

CantRepeat
02-24-2014, 11:47 AM
Looking good!!! :toast:

The only suggestion I'd make is: when working on boat, drink more beer!! It's almost like being out on the water!

Rossterman
02-24-2014, 02:13 PM
Looking good!!! :toast:

The only suggestion I'd make is: when working on boat, drink more beer!! It's almost like being out on the water!

I made sure to keep the beer drinking until after the drilling was done...:)

Footin
02-24-2014, 08:25 PM
I look forward to a beer or six every time I get done working on this project.

I wasn't sure if I would start this thread, but I has been kind of fun and maybe it will help someone else in the future and I guess we need something to read in the winter.

Aric'sX15
02-26-2014, 04:49 PM
Very good choice on using the brass valve vs what mc puts on the new boats, plastic. You have more patients than I!

uplander
02-26-2014, 05:49 PM
I am impressed you are drilling the holes, not sure I could do it

Footin
02-26-2014, 08:12 PM
I am impressed you are drilling the holes, not sure I could do it

Actually it was one of the easiest parts, I used the "magnet method", a magnet on the inside and on the outside, it takes the guess work out. My daughter was a lot of help while positioning the magnets.

We had the three holes done in less than an hour.

Footin
03-01-2014, 07:43 PM
Worked on it for a few hours today. First I wanted to test the pumps to make sure they were not wired backwards.
Everything worked well:

Footin
03-01-2014, 07:44 PM
Then I finished plumbing the thru hulls to the pumps:

Footin
03-01-2014, 07:50 PM
And the two rear pumps:

Footin
03-01-2014, 07:53 PM
Bag fits well, I used a shop vac to inflate it to measure for the fill fitting locations.

Footin
03-01-2014, 07:58 PM
Now for my mistake, I cut the bottom of the rear panel to allow the hose to go under it to the rear of the sac. Needless to say I cut to opening to wide. I don't like how this turned out.

I am going to install a 90 degree fitting after the pump so I can go straight into the sac (I will have to drill a 1 1/2 hole next to the mistake for the hose to pass thru) this is a hard place to work as the hose is not staying at the angles I need it too. I might have to sleep on this one before I start drilling and cutting again. Luckily the sac will cover the mistake.

It will be a large ventilation hole I guess????

uplander
03-01-2014, 08:05 PM
You will want the extra room for the hose, I found that once the bag is full it is putting a massive amount of force against the hose and fitting. I tried to route my hose up the side and then down to the bag. I actually cut an angle on the back panel to the get the hose higher. After I changed the angle of the hose my fill and empty time decreased.

Footin
03-01-2014, 08:11 PM
Good point, maybe I should leave it like it is in the picture and use a 90 into the bag?

uplander
03-01-2014, 08:22 PM
Here is a picture of mine before I made the change, I went with a longer hose and came down the side to the fitting. I also bought mine at wakemakers.

Not sure I have a picture of after but it works much better, looks like you will be ok just make sure nothing is kinked as you fill the bag the first time.

Footin
03-01-2014, 08:26 PM
Either way I will have to install a 90, one way is right under the "mistake" then another 90 into the sac or behind the wall then straight thru to the bag. I will play around with it tomorrow.

uplander
03-01-2014, 08:32 PM
your fitting coming out of the bag should have a 90 integrated in it, I looked at your picture of hardware and it looks the same. Your mistake will give you more room for the hose to move around and reduce the kink on the hose.

Your install looks good, not sure I could drill the holes you are doing but that should drain and fill very quickly.

Footin
03-01-2014, 08:39 PM
I have both 90's and straights. The hose will need a 90 under the mistake and another 90 into the sac unless I can get the hose to bend properly. I will play more tomorrow.

TOO-TALL
03-01-2014, 11:21 PM
That's how I have mine..
short piece of hose off the pump 90 elbow.
short piece of hose another 90(now your around the removable wall)
short piece of hose to 90 into the back of the bag.

I'll try and get a pic tommorow

JRW160
03-02-2014, 11:42 AM
That's how I have mine..
short piece of hose off the pump 90 elbow.
short piece of hose another 90(now your around the removable wall)
short piece of hose to 90 into the back of the bag.

I'll try and get a pic tommorow
That is how I have mine setup as well. It seems to work fine

neil.anderson63
03-02-2014, 11:47 AM
Nice work footin. I want to add some ballast to our X2. The little woman is NOT a fan of ballast bags out in the open. You're gonna love this boat!!

Footin
03-02-2014, 03:12 PM
Ok, with some twisting of the hose and a wire clamp it turned out pretty good.

snork
03-02-2014, 04:17 PM
nice clean install

uplander
03-02-2014, 06:32 PM
looks good !!!

TOO-TALL
03-02-2014, 07:28 PM
that will work

Traxx822
03-03-2014, 08:01 AM
This thread is helping me a lot right now. Thanks.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Footin
03-03-2014, 05:33 PM
Latest dilemma, the vent fittings. The one on the left I ordered from Wakemakers for the fat sac vents, the one on the right is a factory fitting out of my boat from the bilge pump discharge and they don't match.
They will be fairly close together and I know it will bug me so I ordered two more of the one on the left from Wakemakers with a 3/4 hose barb for the bilge.

I will be drilling the three holes for the vents later this week.

Traxx822
03-03-2014, 06:11 PM
-------------------

snork
03-03-2014, 06:20 PM
My MC dealer said I needed to order from them if I wanted matching vents, I was hoping to get to the bottom of this so I don't have to pay dealer markups

uplander
03-03-2014, 07:15 PM
Are you going to put a check valve on your vent line

Footin
03-03-2014, 07:51 PM
Are you going to put a check valve on your vent line

No, according to Wakemakers if you set up with a self priming pump and fill/drain through the bottom of the boat you don't need a check valve.
If it does end up needing one, it will be simple to add.

JRW160
03-03-2014, 08:21 PM
A check valve should help get the back completely empty when draining. I don't have one on my vent lines though.

uplander
03-03-2014, 09:44 PM
When I drive down the road my bag turns into a balloon, the vent line turns into a pressurized line and blows up the bag. Probably not a huge deal but I am adding a check valve this spring.

Traxx822
03-03-2014, 11:06 PM
Those fitting that are 90 elbow from bag to fill/drain hose, do they come with the bags from wakemakers? I just bought my bags and no fittings came with them.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Traxx822
03-03-2014, 11:07 PM
When I drive down the road my bag turns into a balloon, the vent line turns into a pressurized line and blows up the bag. Probably not a huge deal but I am adding a check valve this spring.

That's funny. Check valves. Got it.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

uplander
03-03-2014, 11:16 PM
Mine came with the vent hose extension and fittings, but I purchased a kit to convert stock tank to bag

Traxx822
03-03-2014, 11:17 PM
Hmmm, I just bought the bags only. Figured it would come with them.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

CantRepeat
03-04-2014, 05:29 AM
My vent line has the flat looking 90 fitting and you really don't notice the difference after the first time out.

Wakemaker is correct. You don't need a check valve on dedicated thru hull vented bag like you are doing.

JRW160
03-04-2014, 02:08 PM
Hmmm, I just bought the bags only. Figured it would come with them.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
If you just buy the bags, they don't come with the fittings. The fittings and hoses come with the tankbuster kits from wakemakers. You can get the 90deg fittings at lowe's or home depot. Just use some teflon tape on the threads.

Footin
03-04-2014, 05:11 PM
Those fitting that are 90 elbow from bag to fill/drain hose, do they come with the bags from wakemakers? I just bought my bags and no fittings came with them.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

I ordered the quick connect system. For this you have to order 2 parts:

The part that screws into the sac:
http://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-pro-x-series-fitting-w743.html

And the other part that goes on the fill/vent hose:
http://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-pro-x-series-fitting-w746.html

Traxx822
03-04-2014, 05:48 PM
Thanks dude. Just ordered them.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

gsxrjtt
03-04-2014, 07:44 PM
going to order same stuff for the x1

uplander
03-06-2014, 07:33 PM
This thread got my juices flowing, I have a warranty bag coming from wakemakers and it has additional connections on the bottom. I am going to plumb the starboard pump to the bag also giving me two pumps working on one bag.

Footin
03-06-2014, 07:53 PM
Got the holes drilled and bag vents and the matching bilge fittings installed last night.

The single port
The sac and the matching rear bilge fitting on the starboard side rear
And the bow and matching front bilge fitting

The two in the front look a little out of alignment and they are a little bit, but if you stand back they follow the curve of the top deck (at least that's what I tell myself since I cant seem to measure correctly)

Footin
03-06-2014, 07:57 PM
Now that I'm done turning the boat into Swiss cheese, the only things left are to route and install the vent hoses, install one of the rear panels, lay in the rear sacs and clean it up.:D:D:D:

Footin
03-06-2014, 07:59 PM
Oh yeah, I also have to put away what seem like every tool I own that are all over the work bench and inside the boat.

I really do not remember getting all these things out???

uplander
03-06-2014, 09:36 PM
Looks good, that is a bunch of holes you drilled

Traxx822
03-08-2014, 09:52 AM
I have a quick question if you don't mind a little derail. But do I need these connectors or can we just use shrink/solder etc?
http://www.wakemakers.com/pre-wired-ballast-pump-switch-connector.html

Footin
03-09-2014, 05:52 PM
I have a quick question if you don't mind a little derail. But do I need these connectors or can we just use shrink/solder etc?
http://www.wakemakers.com/pre-wired-ballast-pump-switch-connector.html

For wiring the switch?

Traxx822
03-09-2014, 05:54 PM
I guess that's what it is for. Not sure. I didn't buy them

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Footin
03-09-2014, 05:56 PM
You can use what ever connector/solder joint you want to.

Traxx822
03-09-2014, 06:00 PM
Thanks.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Ryan
03-09-2014, 06:16 PM
Mike, I can't believe I missed this thread. Such nice work on the install from the pump mountings to the ubolts to pickup placement. I'm glade the wiring works out with the switch panel. Did you even tape/heat shrink the hose clamps?

Footin
03-09-2014, 06:30 PM
Mike, I can't believe I missed this thread. Such nice work on the install from the pump mountings to the ubolts to pickup placement. I'm glade the wiring works out with the switch panel. Did you even tape/heat shrink the hose clamps?

Yes I taped the clamps, they have those sharp edges and I did not want to cut anything (like me).

KnoxX2
03-09-2014, 06:42 PM
Yes I taped the clamps, they have those sharp edges and I did not want to cut anything (like me).

Wimp 8p;):D

gsxrjtt
03-09-2014, 06:48 PM
do you plan on keeping the maristar stickers ?? .. you have turned her into a pretty nigh wake board / surf boat now.

Footin
03-09-2014, 07:02 PM
do you plan on keeping the maristar stickers ?? .. you have turned her into a pretty nigh wake board / surf boat now.

Good question, I kinda like the Maristar stickers. But I guess I could call it an X2 now huh?

My daughter wants me to remove the Maristar label and either leave it blank or put on some kind of X2 sticker.

What do you all think?

gsxrjtt
03-09-2014, 07:17 PM
My vote take it off also .. you upgraded the boat up grade the looks hehe ..

KnoxX2
03-09-2014, 07:38 PM
Update to an X2 now

Footin
03-09-2014, 07:41 PM
Update to an X2 now

Does a Gator fan know how to spell "X2" ? :D

KnoxX2
03-09-2014, 07:52 PM
Nope but we can spell BCS championship better than a Buckeye. LOL

Footin
03-09-2014, 07:53 PM
Nope but we can spell BCS championship better than a Buckeye. LOL

Well played.

KnoxX2
03-09-2014, 08:10 PM
Thank you.......:rolleyes::D

Footin
03-10-2014, 08:57 PM
Got a little side tracked. I have read there are problems with the engine dividers getting pushed into the exhaust manifolds by the full sacs. To stop this, I bought some aluminum angle stock, cut it to length, drilled and screwed it so it stops the divider from bending.

It seems pretty sturdy now, time will tell.

Footin
03-10-2014, 08:59 PM
And with the divider installed

Footin
03-11-2014, 08:21 PM
Coming to the finish line, rear and bow vents are plumbed and all bags are installed :D:D:D

Footin
03-11-2014, 08:25 PM
I'm calling this project complete! Boat is put back together and swept out.

I am very happy with how it all came out, it looks factory and everything is hidden. I'm especially pleased with the gauge and switch panel, looks like it came with them.

Next will be the lake test, might have to wait a few weeks for that.

uplander
03-11-2014, 08:50 PM
Very nice install

Jayhawk
03-11-2014, 09:03 PM
Thanks Footin. I've learned a lot from this thread.

Ryan
03-11-2014, 09:55 PM
That was some fast work Mike. You knocked that out in about a month!
When's the maiden voyage?

TOO-TALL
03-11-2014, 10:18 PM
very nice mike

Footin
03-12-2014, 07:00 PM
Thanks everyone, I really enjoyed this install and posting the pictures. I hope that it will help someone with their own project.

Come on summer!

KnoxX2
03-12-2014, 08:21 PM
Thanks everyone, I really enjoyed this install and posting the pictures. I hope that it will help someone with their own project.

Come on summer!

You act like your done!!!! LOL you have a lot more to do to that boat.8p:D

Footin
03-12-2014, 08:28 PM
You act like your done!!!! LOL you have a lot more to do to that boat.8p:D

Just tower speaker and an amp, but that might have to wait till next year.:D

KnoxX2
03-12-2014, 08:55 PM
You still need to lake test and dial it all in. We need more PICs...................... LOL

Besides you have nothing to look FWD to this fall. Suck Eyes are just going to let you down like they always do. JK

Footin
04-12-2014, 04:11 PM
My 200VRS (X2 now, hehe) had its maiden voyage with the new ballast system today and everything went well.
I did not find and ballast system leaks; but I do have a very small leak somewhere else?

The 750's in the rear fill the space nicely, but I could go bigger if I wanted too.

And the ballast vents worked as they should.

Footin
04-12-2014, 04:16 PM
I was very pleased with the wake, it's going to take some dialing in for surfing.
I played around with it a bit and found around 10mph with the port and bow full it was pretty good.

It came up on plane better than expected with everything full. I was a little concerned with only having the RTP, but with 2,200 pounds of ballast and four people it did great.

I am very happy with the way everything turned out and once I find tower speakers and an amp the boat will be ready for summer!

KnoxX2
04-12-2014, 05:12 PM
Congrats! That is a amazing looking boat. Glad everything worked as planed.

TOO-TALL
04-12-2014, 06:22 PM
Sharp looking boat mike.

Ryan
04-12-2014, 08:34 PM
Mike, I'm surprised at how much room is still in the storage compartment. The boat is looking great. When do the board racks go on?

I'm totally jealous you got out today.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Footin
04-12-2014, 08:37 PM
Boardracks will go on when its outside ready to take to Kentucky. While it is here it goes in the garage and to get in the garage the tower has to come off. It would be heavier with the racks so we shall wait.

Ryan
04-12-2014, 10:57 PM
Boardracks will go on when its outside ready to take to Kentucky. While it is here it goes in the garage and to get in the garage the tower has to come off. It would be heavier with the racks so we shall wait.

Ah, right!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Footin
07-06-2014, 06:15 PM
Update: since I had the extra room and a fellow TT member gave me a great deal, I removed the port 750 sac in put in an 1,100 pound custom made sac. Wake is larger but washes out a little. We are darn close to a great surf wake, I still have to dial in the speed.

Ryan
07-06-2014, 09:25 PM
Pics?

rgardjr1
07-07-2014, 02:41 PM
Wake is larger but washes out a little.

This is the problem that I have with ours. Cut down the swim platform hoping that would clean it up, but didn't do much of anything. I've read that the center trim tab helps to clean up the lip, but we don't have one so I can't comment. Love to see some pics or videos of your wave to compare it to ours.