View Full Version : Best way to drain oil and change filter
09-08-2004, 02:43 PM
I have a 04 maristar with the mcx engine and i need to change my oil and filter. I checked it out today and saw the hose that comes off the drain plug and was wondering if it is long enogh to take out the back drain hole or do i need to pump it out somehow. As for the filter i was just wondering what is the best way of changing it without making a mess. Thanks
east tx skier
09-08-2004, 03:27 PM
If you have a rear drain, you should just be able to drop the hose through the plug and into a suitable container to drain. Of course, I'm a prostar owner, but I think the issue some have had with v-drives is reaching the drain plug. But if you can reach it, that should work. As for the filter, I've heard doubled up plastic grocery bags and ziplocks under the oil filter are good at preventing spills. Probably wouldn't hurt to put a trash bag down for good measure and extra insurance.
P.S. Make sure you warm up the engine before you change the oil. It will move a little more quickly that way.
09-09-2004, 01:09 AM
Maristarbob, you got it right. That oil drain hose is designed to go out the transom drain (in fact, I think that's the only reason for the transom drain.. the bilge drain works way better to get water out). As EastTx says, make sure the oil is warm, but, even then, its slooowww draining out of that hose. Heed his advice on the bags over & under the filter (once you've got it loose) - keep the oil out of the bilge.
Fortunately, the bilge is smooth fiberglass and this makes it easier to clean up a spill. If you have a plastic bottle from bleach, windshield washer fluid, etc-cut it off about 5"-6" from the bottom and use it to catch the filter and the oil that is above the filter.
While the oil is draining:
1) Lay some paper towels in the bilge and place the jug bottom on it under the filter.
2) Loosen the filter so the oil starts to drain over the seal and let the excess drip into the "cup" until it stops.
3) Reach in and unscrew the filter the rest of the way(use a plastic bag or rubber gloves if you want) and lay it into the cup. If it's on its side, it'll drain out and there will be less risk of tipping and making a mess.
4) Slide the cup to a location where you can remove it and make sure to have the carpet covered.
5) Wipe the mating surface for the filter.
6) Pour oil into the new filter until it's close to the top (you'll use about 3/4 of a quart for this). This keeps you from dry-starting it.
7) Fill the crankcase with new oil
If you have room for it, the AC PH-1218 is good for anti-siphon and minimizing dry starts. It is the large size filter and there's a lot more filter element surface area.
09-09-2004, 10:49 AM
Thanks, Jim... I like your process way better than mine.
09-10-2004, 01:28 PM
Thanks all for your great ideas! One last question, what is the best way too warm the oil if the boat is on a trailer 3 miles from the river? Can i put a hose(s) in the exhaust manifold and run for five minutes?
09-10-2004, 01:38 PM
MariStarbob, you need to run water into the water intake hose, so the raw water pump can circulate that water throughout the block while the engine is running. You CANNOT accomplish this by putting a hose in the exhaust manifold.
If your '04 MariStar is the same as mine, a 'fake a lake' won't work, because the trailer bunk covers the water intake. I put a FlushPro into my water intake line, but that's only one approach.
If you search this site (and the old one) for winterization, you should find lots of information.
09-12-2004, 08:30 PM
Wow, Great suggestion regarding the use of doubled up plastic grocery bags. Today was oil change day (my first one for my 2004 210VRS MCX). Did exactly as you all said. Not a drop spilled
I did try that drain hose affair. Concur with "Painfully slow" even after being fully warm from being driven for a full 4 hours. So I pulled out my trusty JABSCO 12V oil changer (the 2000 series) and in a matter of a minute or two.... done.