View Full Version : new boat stereo options

11-12-2013, 06:03 PM
DHPRO's thread got me thinking about my options again. I'm getting 2014 and I pulled my system out of my 2012. Here's what I've got sitting in my basement: 12" RF P3 sub powered by RF Prime 1000W RMS amp, 2 WS rev 8's for the tower powered by a RF R600-4D, bridged to give me 300W RMS X 2, and an Alpine 500PDXF6, which gives me 150W RMS X 4 for the in boat speakers.

My original plan was to get the standard stereo and then install my same system. The sub amp is mounted on the sub box and sits under the coffin seat. I mounted the other 2 amps above the batteries.

Here are my concerns with the original plan:

My tower speakers were intermittently cutting out. The amp was saying it was going into protect mode from a short circuit. I checked my connections when I pulled everything out, so either there was a problem with the factory portion of the wiring, or my amp has an internal issue. Any ideas on how to verify my amp is good?

I won't have the upgraded Fusion 700 which gives you better audio control from the driver's seat, including zoned volume control. I guess I could always buy it aftermarket and install it myself for $420.

The other option is to get the high performance stereo option, which gets the upgraded Fusion 700, a sub and a 5 channel amp for the sub and in boat speakers. The in boat speakers would be underpowered, unless I install my amp, but then I don't have an amp for the factory sub. I would still install my sub and tower speakers and tower speaker amp. The other option is I could leave the in boat speakers powered by the factory amp and use my old in boat speaker amp to power the tower speakers since my original tower speaker amp is questionable. I don't want to increase my number of amps because there just isn't room to mount them, so that gives me the 1000W amp mounted on my sub box plus 2 amps over the batteries.

Any thoughts/recommendations?

11-13-2013, 09:05 AM
The Fusion 700i is one of the reasons that I can wait to get my new boat...that is an absolute must in my opinion. If I were you, I'd keep the amp and subwoofer...go all stock JL including 4 towers and then get a 750/1 for the towers or a 600/4. Get the remotes with the Fusion...it is awesome since you can scroll tracks on the iPod and adjust the volumes independently. You'll spend a bunch more money trying to do it yourself vs. what the factory can give you as a baseline from which to build upon.

11-14-2013, 08:11 AM
I don't want to redo what I have. I'm reusing my sub and Rev 8 tower speakers. My debate is if I get the high power stereo option, I have a second sub to power and the amp I will get from the factory will only give me 75W to each in boat speaker. Either I keep the 5 ch amp and leave the boat speakers a little under powered, or I have to spend more money to get a higher power 5 ch amp. Or am I wrong on the factory amp rating? I don't want to end up with 3 separate amps to power the tower speakers, in boat speakers, and factory sub. I don't think there is room to mount all 3 easily.

11-14-2013, 09:04 AM
My friend has a very similar set up to what you are talking about. Here is what I can suggest. Take the amp that comes with the boat out and put in the 900/5 like he did...huge upgrade, factory amp isn't enough IMO. Either trade-in the amp Mastercraft gives you or sell it on Ebay or something.

Tower speakers...use whatever amp is running your Rev 8's currently. For your sub, use your current amp as well. There is PLENTY of room to mount things. My current plan is I'll be pushing a little over 3000W through 4 amps...200W to each of the 10 JL7.7's 200W to the free air, and 1200W to my ported sub.

11-14-2013, 11:21 AM
Don't waste your money on the fusion stereo. I can't understand why mc went this direction, because all the fusion products I know of are absolute garbage. Just get a ws 420 eq. More control at your fingertips than the fusion would give you, and it probably won't break.

11-14-2013, 12:18 PM
What did you find the issue to be with the Fusion products? I was blown away at how well it worked on the '14 model compared to my crappy old Clarion head unit paired with the WS eq. (which I thought worked great too before seeing how the technology had evolved)

For me it is about being able to turn down or off the tower speakers from sitting on the back platform since a part of my lake has a noise ordinance, and also being able to access iPod and scroll through playlists while I'm standing behind the boat on the sandbar...not sure how you accomplish this using any other system ?

03-07-2014, 10:13 AM
I ended up going with the high power option. My plan is to add my sealed 12" sub with 1000W RMS under the coffin seat, add my 2 rev 8's to the tower and power them with a 4 ch amp bridged to give 300W RMS to each. Right now, I'm planning on leaving the factory amp for the in boats and free air sub. I might change my mind when I get the boat, hear how it sounds, and see how much space I have available for amp mounting.

I saw on another post someone mentioning that adding a free air sub in the same space as an enclosed one can actually have a negative impact. Am I at risk of this even if the free air is on the other side of the boat? There aren't huge openings from each seat to the rear engine hatch, but they are still pretty big to allow air movement. Do I try it to see how it sounds with and without the factory sub being powered? If it is negatively impacting, will it not sound as crisp, or how do I tell?

David Analog
03-07-2014, 11:02 AM
Unless the two subwoofers are identical and side-by-side with the same orientation, you do not want two subwoofers. The results are unpredictable but generally two asymmetrical subs will have a different phase response, because a) they are different subs that are loaded differently, and b) they are in different locations with a different orientation/direction.
The impulse response will be poor because they cannot be time aligned, just smeared bass, and the bass performance will be hot and cold as you move around the cockpit. It's a problem especially with the longer wavelengths played by subwoofers.
Then you have one subwoofer with considerably more surface area that will clearly dominate.

03-07-2014, 11:48 AM
Now that I've learned all of that, I should have gone without the high power option and installed the upgraded fusion myself. It's all I was really after. My original thinking was I didn't want to have to cut out the fiberglass (the 2 options are different sizes), so if I paid a little more, in addition to getting the head unit already installed, I also get a 2nd sub (although with a lot less power than my current) to supplement.

I guess I'll install my components and see how it sounds. I can always turn the gain down on the factory sub.

David Analog
03-07-2014, 12:22 PM
Many place a larger subwoofer and enclosure directly behind the opening once occupied by the factory IB sub. Then they add a grill to function as a vent. If your enclosure will fit there, then you are ahead by having the fiberglass opening already cut in.

03-07-2014, 02:53 PM
There is no room since the cooler storage is right behind the factory sub location. The sub barely fits.

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03-08-2014, 09:15 AM
There is no room since the cooler storage is right behind the factory sub location. The sub barely fits.

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Don't mess with the cooler!!! It is VERY important. In fact, going with a SMALLER sub will allow you to install a BIGGER cooler! Studies have shown that bigger coolers actually create an enhanced audible sensory effect as time spent on the boat increases.... Pretty much a no brainer if you ask me :) MC should add the "I CAN'T HEAR YOU, MY COOLER IS TOO BIG" option on the 2015 boats. Now we're talking!

05-25-2014, 11:01 PM
I finally got the new boat, and now I'm up in the air about what to do. In the coffin area where my 12" sub, box, and sub amp were located, there is now the perco switch and some sort of giant carbon filter EVAP system for the fuel tank. There is a lot less storage and the box for my sub will not fit. The factory free air sub is lack luster and not very crisp at all.

I'm thinking that I should sell my 12" P3 sub and 1000W amp, replace the factory 5 ch amp with the 900/5 and sell the factory amp, and possibly replace the 10" free air sub with a 12" free air sub (assuming it will fit). I haven't measured, but it looks like it will be close to fitting. Tower speaker plan is still the same - Rev8's and separate amp that I already have.

Any suggestions? Am I on the correct path? I still don't think there's room to easily mount 3 amps inside the storage compartment under the port side dash.

05-29-2014, 09:51 PM
Rating on the 10" factory sub is only 250W RMS. I don't think a 12" will fit in that location, not to mention that I didn't find much for 12" IB subs. At this point, I'm about ready to install my tower speakers and tower speaker amp and give up. Any other ideas?