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View Full Version : 89 prostar 190.. winterization (need a pic please)


89mastercraft
10-23-2013, 05:49 PM
I hate to start a topic because there are already so many, but i don't fully understand this process..

I have a 89 prostar 190 and I have open the valves on both sides of the block... drained the water and I pulled the plugs from the manifolds and drained the water from both of them as well

I see people making custom buckets and hooking them up to what appears the water pump..

Why do you have to modify the bucket? Couldn't I just fill a bucket up with marine antifreeze and use a hose to suck it through?

Could someone PLEASE help me out and show me exactly which hose i need to undo to pump antifreeze through the whole engine?

Also i have already put my boat in the back yard.. far away from water for me to run a fake-a-lake to make the engine reach operating temperature, is this TOTALLY necessary?

I was going to buy about 4 gallons of antifreeze and just run it until it comes out the exhaust.

ANY pictures or help would be me much appreciated...

It's getting down to 30 here over the weekend and makes me nervous :o

TSchimizzi
10-24-2013, 08:43 AM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=57925

That should answer all your questions. I used 6 gallons.

CruisinGA
10-24-2013, 09:01 AM
I may be in the minority but I do not run my engine to winterize. There is no water at my storage/winterizing location and I do not like having to 'trust' that the engine is warm enough for the thermostat to be open and allow antifreeze into the engine.

I drain the block and manifolds as you have (which alone should be enough), and then remove the thermostat housing and pour in RV antifreeze until it comes out of the block drains. RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) is more dense than water, so it should displace any water remaining in low spots within the block.
I then button it back up so that in the spring all I do is install a new impeller and drop the boat in the water. This method does require that I buy a $2 thermostat housing gasket every year.

blackhawk
10-24-2013, 11:53 AM
CruisinGA - I do my engine just like you except that I don't remove the thermostat housing. I just remove the large hose at the thermostat housing and then pour my antifreeze into that hose. The AF will then flow down through the engine water pump and fill up the block. On the two boats that I have the AF will eventually run out where the thermostat housing where I took off the hose. I wondered the first time that I did it, how the AF gets by the thermostat. But I found out that most thermostats have a bleeder hole which is meant to let any air pockets escape from the block. The antifreeze will eventually pass through this hole and out the housing. At that point you know the block is full.

bochnak
10-24-2013, 02:53 PM
I unhooked the raw water intake hose after trans cooler, swiveled it up, and poured RV with a funnel. I used 3gal and it was not enough to to go through the exhaust out back. Block and exhaust are full though.

I would also disconnect hoses and loosen impeller cover to get more water out.

bochnak
10-24-2013, 02:54 PM
This method does require that I buy a $2 thermostat housing gasket every year.

Where are you getting it for $2? Triangle shape with 2 holes?

89mastercraft
10-24-2013, 02:58 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=57925

That should answer all your questions. I used 6 gallons.

I checked that thread out and could not see well enough in the pictures

I may be in the minority but I do not run my engine to winterize. There is no water at my storage/winterizing location and I do not like having to 'trust' that the engine is warm enough for the thermostat to be open and allow antifreeze into the engine.

I drain the block and manifolds as you have (which alone should be enough), and then remove the thermostat housing and pour in RV antifreeze until it comes out of the block drains. RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) is more dense than water, so it should displace any water remaining in low spots within the block.
I then button it back up so that in the spring all I do is install a new impeller and drop the boat in the water. This method does require that I buy a $2 thermostat housing gasket every year.

CruisinGA - I do my engine just like you except that I don't remove the thermostat housing. I just remove the large hose at the thermostat housing and then pour my antifreeze into that hose. The AF will then flow down through the engine water pump and fill up the block. On the two boats that I have the AF will eventually run out where the thermostat housing where I took off the hose. I wondered the first time that I did it, how the AF gets by the thermostat. But I found out that most thermostats have a bleeder hole which is meant to let any air pockets escape from the block. The antifreeze will eventually pass through this hole and out the housing. At that point you know the block is full.

I unhooked the raw water intake hose after trans cooler, swiveled it up, and poured RV with a funnel. I used 3gal and it was not enough to to go through the exhaust out back. Block and exhaust are full though.

I would also disconnect hoses and loosen impeller cover to get more water out.

Could one of you guys be kind enough to show me a nice clear picture of which hose i need to undo and fill with antifreeze?? Also where is the thermostat?

I read something about unscrewing the knock sensor too...

This is my first boat.. I am mechanically inclined enough to do all of this I just don't know the specifics of my boat.. hence im looking for photo's

Thanks for your replies.. I appreciate them

thatsmrmastercraft
10-24-2013, 03:04 PM
Where are you getting it for $2? Triangle shape with 2 holes?

Thermostat housing gaskets can be made from bulk gasket material. Buy a sheet and it will last quite a while and be cheaper than $2 per gasket.

bochnak
10-24-2013, 03:08 PM
I checked that thread out and could not see well enough in the pictures







Could one of you guys be kind enough to show me a nice clear picture of which hose i need to undo and fill with antifreeze?? Also where is the thermostat?

I read something about unscrewing the knock sensor too...

This is my first boat.. I am mechanically inclined enough to do all of this I just don't know the specifics of my boat.. hence im looking for photo's

Thanks for your replies.. I appreciate them

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-adlMq3CMN0I/UmlgeoT_8fI/AAAAAAAABjM/FqEtox3e-dQ/w618-h562-no/10-24-2013+1-00-26+PM.jpg

My motor is an Indmar, not sure what yours is? Your boat is probably carbed and does not have a knock sensor like mine.

Thermostat is on top and personally would not remove it. Drain all water and let the impeller suck the RV through the motor.

bochnak
10-24-2013, 03:17 PM
Thermostat housing gaskets can be made from bulk gasket material. Buy a sheet and it will last quite a while and be cheaper than $2 per gasket.

Got it, thanks.

prostar205er
10-24-2013, 03:32 PM
So that is the thermostat...the triangular shape box on top where all of the hoses converge? Good to know. So some of you out there open that up and pour your antifreeze in there?

I have a fake lake that I use to suck up the antifreeze. I don't always run the engine with water first to heat it up though (in part, so I don't scald my hands when I'm draining everything). When I'm sucking antifreeze into the engine I usually see my temp get up into the 200s. Is that sufficient enough to get the engine to open up to the antifreeze? Just curious as I've been doing this for years and have never had an issue.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-adlMq3CMN0I/UmlgeoT_8fI/AAAAAAAABjM/FqEtox3e-dQ/w618-h562-no/10-24-2013+1-00-26+PM.jpg

My motor is an Indmar, not sure what yours is? Your boat is probably carbed and does not have a knock sensor like mine.

Thermostat is on top and personally would not remove it. Drain all water and let the impeller suck the RV through the motor.

CruisinGA
10-24-2013, 03:37 PM
Where are you getting it for $2? Triangle shape with 2 holes?

No I pull the two large bolts, entire thermostat housing. Regular chevy vortec thermostat gasket

Skidim has it for $2.95.
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RM0121

bochnak
10-24-2013, 03:45 PM
So that is the thermostat...the triangular shape box on top where all of the hoses converge? Good to know. So some of you out there open that up and pour your antifreeze in there?

I have a fake lake that I use to suck up the antifreeze. I don't always run the engine with water first to heat it up though (in part, so I don't scald my hands when I'm draining everything). When I'm sucking antifreeze into the engine I usually see my temp get up into the 200s. Is that sufficient enough to get the engine to open up to the antifreeze? Just curious as I've been doing this for years and have never had an issue.

I did it with cold engine and RV distributed throughout. If you look at the t-stat setup, there is a 5/8" bypass hole.

prostar205er
10-24-2013, 03:50 PM
I did it with cold engine and RV distributed throughout. If you look at the t-stat setup, there is a 5/8" bypass hole.

Where is that (t-stat setup)? I've been doing my own maintenance for years and have never opened the t-stat. Would I see this if I opened up the triangle where the four hoses converge?

bochnak
10-24-2013, 03:56 PM
Where is that (t-stat setup)? I've been doing my own maintenance for years and have never opened the t-stat. Would I see this if I opened up the triangle where the four hoses converge?


http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=98-5006

On mine it is the smaller hole in this gasket.

bochnak
10-24-2013, 03:57 PM
No I pull the two large bolts, entire thermostat housing. Regular chevy vortec thermostat gasket

Skidim has it for $2.95.
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RM0121

This is the one I need:
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=98-5006

I thought I paid more for some reason.

prostar205er
10-24-2013, 03:58 PM
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=98-5006

On mine it is the smaller hole in this gasket.

Thanks! Is there ever a reason to need to open that housing (other than for your winterization process of course)? Just curious if there is anything I've been neglecting...

CruisinGA
10-24-2013, 04:09 PM
This is the one I need:
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=98-5006

I thought I paid more for some reason.

You are splitting the tstat housing. If you remove the entire tstat housing you use the gasket I posted.

blackhawk
10-24-2013, 04:31 PM
I don't understand the need to remove the thermostat housing. If you just take off the large hose from the engine water pump, you can pour your antifreeze in that way. The AF will flow backwards through the water pump and then fill up the engine. On my MCX, after about 2.75 gallons, the AF starts coming out of the thermostat housing where I removed the large hose. You just have to hold the end of the large hose higher than the thermostat housing.

bochnak
10-24-2013, 04:40 PM
You are splitting the tstat housing. If you remove the entire tstat housing you use the gasket I posted.

Oh, OK. I had to replace the t-stat & gasket. Didn't know there was another below that.

CruisinGA
10-28-2013, 10:46 AM
I don't understand the need to remove the thermostat housing. If you just take off the large hose from the engine water pump, you can pour your antifreeze in that way. The AF will flow backwards through the water pump and then fill up the engine. On my MCX, after about 2.75 gallons, the AF starts coming out of the thermostat housing where I removed the large hose. You just have to hold the end of the large hose higher than the thermostat housing.

You are right. Your method is better, just never thought of it.

Glad you posted, because I did it your way on Saturday! :D

blackhawk
10-28-2013, 03:32 PM
You are right. Your method is better, just never thought of it.

Glad you posted, because I did it your way on Saturday! :D

Cool deal! Something else that I tried out on mine was to plug the thermostat housing with a Fernco cap from Lowe's. I did this because the hoses going to the exhaust manifolds are on the very top of the thermostat housing. The AF comes out the thermostat housing before getting over into the exhaust manifolds. With the cap on there, I was able to pour in another gallon of antifreeze which flowed over into the exhaust manifolds. I had to stick in a pvc elbow with a short piece of pipe into the water pump hose to get it higher than the exhaust hoses. On my engine there is a small hose that runs to the dripless propeller coupling. I had to clamp that off with a Quick Grip clamp to keep the antifreeze from running out at that point.

bochnak
10-28-2013, 03:39 PM
You guys are making this complicated. Disconnect the hose running to impeller intake, attach funnel, start engine & pour! No need to buy or Rube Goldberg anything.

thatsmrmastercraft
10-28-2013, 03:46 PM
You guys are making this complicated. Disconnect the hose running to impeller intake, attach funnel, start engine & pour! No need to buy or Rube Goldberg anything.

That is the way I did it the first year I winterized my boat. It is as easy as it gets, though you need another person to spray fogging oil i through the carb. I switched to the bucket method as I usually do the winterizing myself.

bochnak
10-28-2013, 03:50 PM
That is the way I did it the first year I winterized my boat. It is as easy as it gets, though you need another person to spray fogging oil i through the carb. I switched to the bucket method as I usually do the winterizing myself.

True. I had a couple of helpers. I'm going to make the bucket thing since I'm not crazy about the fake lake and always nervous it will fall off.

CruisinGA
10-28-2013, 03:51 PM
You guys are making this complicated. Disconnect the hose running to impeller intake, attach funnel, start engine & pour! No need to buy or Rube Goldberg anything.



I think it's easier to simply undo one hose and NOT have to run the engine...

to each his own!

thatsmrmastercraft
10-28-2013, 03:56 PM
True. I had a couple of helpers. I'm going to make the bucket thing since I'm not crazy about the fake lake and always nervous it will fall off.

Same feeling here. I got a fake-a-lake and used it a couple times. Was always nervous. With the bucket, I can do it by myself and always see the water supply is there. The water valve I have at the top of my tub allows me to shut off the water without getting out of the boat.