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Bouyhead
10-23-2013, 09:39 AM
Figured I'd take the advice of CruisinGA and start a thread on my ZR6 conversion. Pretty sure not too many guys will actually refer to this how to thread but it is the off season:D@ ericB I got the motor through Discount Inboard Marine from PCM. It is a leftover rated at 375HP @ Ben I was looking into a repower for ZO capabilities and when I inquired at DIM they gave me a great price on the ZR6 with a new 1.1 tranny. I'm selling my power package complete and unloading my PPSG to a buddie offset to the cost. Right now I'm looking at a custom driveshaft as the motor has to be pushed forward to get clearance for the bell housing, and maybe a spacer plate for the front mounts to get the motor a little higher. Should have more pics after the weekend. Pretty cool that the red matches my boat!
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Dylan
10-23-2013, 11:22 AM
First and foremost, awesome project! The motor looks good sitting there. How far forward does the motor need to slide?

mgs96ps
10-23-2013, 02:17 PM
I have a 96 Prostar with an lt1 Corvette engine in it rated around 320 horsepower...I can only imagine that boat with another 50 to 60 horsepower....wow! if the perfect pass stargazer doesn't work out with your buddy can I be first on the list?

Aric'sX15
10-23-2013, 03:13 PM
dang.... now THAT is awesome!

CruisinGA
10-23-2013, 03:46 PM
Buoy- I travel to NYC and area on the reg for work. You need to finish this up by springtime so I can get a barefoot pull behind it! It should be rocket fast!

willyt
10-23-2013, 04:05 PM
indmar to PCM? that's an interesting switch, would have thought all your harnesses would be different

Bouyhead
10-23-2013, 08:37 PM
First and foremost, awesome project! The motor looks good sitting there. How far forward does the motor need to slide?

Thanks! Right now it looks like I have to go all the way forward. Going to do a final mock up on Saturday and hopefully drill and tap new holes, get the motor bolted in and lined up so I can measure and order a new driveshaft.

D3skier
10-23-2013, 09:58 PM
that is just absolutely SICK!!! good luck with the project

DooSPX
10-25-2013, 09:55 AM
Awesome! Going to be watching this project!

JohnE
10-25-2013, 11:02 AM
Great project Mike, looking forward to seeing it progress.

CantRepeat
10-25-2013, 05:46 PM
Great project Mike, looking forward to seeing it progress.

I agree with John.

I'll add this:

I think you don't see a lot of people asking about repowers or howtos because there just aren't a lot of people doing them. I think the more that do happen and are well documented would increase other people doing the same kind of stuff.

I'm very interested in the conversion/upgrade and especially in the ECM wiring part of it. I assume the mechanical is pretty straight forward.

scott023
10-25-2013, 05:52 PM
That looks awesome in there. Why are you doing this changeover? Just for a power increase?

maxpower220
10-25-2013, 06:58 PM
Here's my dumb question: Why couldn't you use the original mounts from your Indmar chevy engine on this chevy PCM? I would think your old tranny would mount up and then your shaft and angle issues would be resolved, no???

With the different mounts, position, and tranny, will you be able to get the proper angle on the shaft without binding?

sethro
10-25-2013, 08:22 PM
PCM utilizes a different mounting system. The engine sits level, while the transmission has the 9 degree down angle. One of the things I prefer over the Indmar marinization.

I'm assuming he's using a PCM engine/Power Plus transmission package as he said he was selling his entire driveline to help offset the cost.

Bouyhead
10-26-2013, 10:22 PM
Thanks for all the positive comments guys, this project is a little daunting. Right now the wiring harness seems to be the least of my worries. I got the adapter from DIM, the boat end, (black)is for an older boat, it won't plug into my harness, and the one i need is no longer avilable. So I'll just cut off the boat end and hard wire that as I can just unplug from the motor.
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Bouyhead
10-26-2013, 10:26 PM
I agree with John.

I'll add this:

I think you don't see a lot of people asking about repowers or howtos because there just aren't a lot of people doing them. I think the more that do happen and are well documented would increase other people doing the same kind of stuff.

I'm very interested in the conversion/upgrade and especially in the ECM wiring part of it. I assume the mechanical is pretty straight forward.

It seems the motor functions/ ECM are all self contained. The adapter appears to be powering the ECM,dash switches, starter, and gauges.

Bouyhead
10-26-2013, 10:28 PM
Here's my dumb question: Why couldn't you use the original mounts from your Indmar chevy engine on this chevy PCM? I would think your old tranny would mount up and then your shaft and angle issues would be resolved, no???

With the different mounts, position, and tranny, will you be able to get the proper angle on the shaft without binding?

Being an LS motor the mounting holes on the block are different and the diameter of the trunnions are different as well.

Bouyhead
10-26-2013, 10:31 PM
That looks awesome in there. Why are you doing this changeover? Just for a power increase?

Thanks, the main reason is for Zero Off speed control, and I got a pretty good deal on this motor as it was a leftover. BTW, that new avatar freaks me out! I can't look at it for more than a few seconds!

Bouyhead
10-26-2013, 10:38 PM
Got a friend who's a pretty good fabricator but hates boats. Made me some spacer blocks to raise the front of the motor and get the proper bell housing clearance. Evidently MC molds a section of metal the entire length of the stringer so drilling and tapping new hole was a breeze.
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D3skier
10-26-2013, 10:39 PM
Thanks for all the positive comments guys, this project is a little daunting. Right now the wiring harness seems to be the least of my worries. I got the adapter from DIM, the boat end, (black)is for an older boat, it won't plug into my harness, and the one i need is no longer avilable. So I'll just cut off the boat end and hard wire that as I can just unplug from the motor.
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instead of cutting off the harness can you use a small all and push the wires out to be able to connect the wires directly to the new harness that fits the new motor?

Bouyhead
10-26-2013, 10:40 PM
I pad makes me post one at a time:confused:
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Bouyhead
10-26-2013, 10:41 PM
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Bouyhead
10-26-2013, 10:53 PM
instead of cutting off the harness can you use a small all and push the wires out to be able to connect the wires directly to the new harness that fits the new motor?

The gray ends will plug into the harness on the new motor, so I'm thinking ill just hard wire the boat end so I can still just unplug if I ever have to pull the motor.

Bouyhead
10-26-2013, 10:55 PM
One thing that worked out great today was crating up the ol' TBI to be shipped.
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Ben
10-26-2013, 11:36 PM
Is that the boat carpet or do you have something sacrificial in place? I would hope so.

1redTA
10-27-2013, 08:32 AM
Lookin good

scott023
10-27-2013, 11:14 AM
Thanks, the main reason is for Zero Off speed control, and I got a pretty good deal on this motor as it was a leftover. BTW, that new avatar freaks me out! I can't look at it for more than a few seconds!

Lol. I figured the motor boat belonged on a boat forum. ;)

Bouyhead
10-27-2013, 11:00 PM
Anyone want to buy a ZR6 cheap? I've been fighting this thing all weekend. I have good clearance underneath and shaft angle is real close. Many hurdles to jump yet but the front mounts have me concerned. I'm running an inch and a half spacer plate under the front mount and still have to crank the front mount all the way up. Having the mount cranked all the way up on the stud is not as stable as having it halfway as you see on most boats. If I run them that high i'll have problems down the road. Not sure how much higher I could or would want to go.
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Anyone have any ideas? If I can talk DIM into exchanging it for the 300 hp 5.0 liter I might do it. Other commitments and the weather have me running out of time. Boat doesn't fit in the garage and working outside gets old real quick when the weather turns.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
10-27-2013, 11:04 PM
Add another spacers under the front mounts..:confused:

Ben
10-27-2013, 11:44 PM
Agree on higher mounts. You may want to consider an extra plate on the side of the mount to drop down and screw into the side of the area below the mount. This would help with lateral support for a really tall mount

Or, skip that. Not sure how much lateral force the motor sees. Seems like normal is torsional due to spinning the prop. This would seem to result in one mount (left one I think) being in tension and the other in compression.

How are the rear mounts looking?

Another option would be to see if there is a mount that slides into the engine with a "drop" to it. This would result in the eyelet being say two inches below the round part that slides to the engine.

Another option would be a rework or modification of there the mount connects to the engine. Pics of this?

Bouyhead
10-28-2013, 09:31 AM
Agree on higher mounts. You may want to consider an extra plate on the side of the mount to drop down and screw into the side of the area below the mount. This would help with lateral support for a really tall mount

Or, skip that. Not sure how much lateral force the motor sees. Seems like normal is torsional due to spinning the prop. This would seem to result in one mount (left one I think) being in tension and the other in compression.

How are the rear mounts looking?

Another option would be to see if there is a mount that slides into the engine with a "drop" to it. This would result in the eyelet being say two inches below the round part that slides to the engine.

Another option would be a rework or modification of there the mount connects to the engine. Pics of this?

When I did some research on these type of mounts and shaft alignment they really don't suggest you run them so high on the threaded stud because of the lateral forces you describe. You can't see it in the pic but when you try to move the motor siedways it puts a lot force on the stud and that in turn makes the trunnion bind, making it difficult to move the motor.

The rear mounts look good, no spacer plate, and I have the trunnion sitting halfway on the threaded stud.

I'm going to inquire about different mounts today. If thats a no go my fabricater wants to build up the base of the front mount so I can drop the front trunnion an inch or so. Not sure I want to add another spacer plate like J.mccreight suggested, the one i have now seems to effect the way everthing lines up. I'd like to do away with the plate entirely.

CruisinGA
10-28-2013, 09:47 AM
I'm with Mccreight, maybe I am missing something, but I don't see how more spacer is going to negatively affect anything.

Bouyhead
10-28-2013, 02:10 PM
[QUOTE=CruisinGA;988206]I'm with Mccreight, maybe I am missing something, but I don't see how more spacer is going to negatively affect anything.[/QUOTE

The spacer plate will work but I would like the mount sitting on the stringer. One reason is with the mount on the stringer I can run the stock inch and a half bolt vs a three inch. And if I go higher, now i'm looking at a four inch or better bolt.

DIM put out a call to PCM this morning and they are sending out new taller mounts. Looking foward to giving them a shot.

thatsmrmastercraft
10-28-2013, 02:20 PM
[QUOTE=CruisinGA;988206]I'm with Mccreight, maybe I am missing something, but I don't see how more spacer is going to negatively affect anything.[/QUOTE

The spacer plate will work but I would like the mount sitting on the stringer. One reason is with the mount on the stringer I can run the stock inch and a half bolt vs a three inch. And if I go higher, now i'm looking at a four inch or better bolt.

DIM put out a call to PCM this morning and they are sending out new taller mounts. Looking foward to giving them a shot.

Hope the taller mounts work. This will be a really cool set-up if you can get it all together.

sethro
10-28-2013, 06:29 PM
It appears you aren't using a PCM transmission? I think that would make everything work better with the alignment issues. The engine is designed to sit level, while the transmission has the angle. Now, with that said, I think taller spacers would solve your issue without harmful effects if that gives you the correct angle for the shaft.

Bouyhead
10-28-2013, 08:58 PM
[QUOTE=thatsmrmastercraft;

Hope the taller mounts work. This will be a really cool set-up if you can get it all together.[/QUOTE]

Did you just say if?;)

Bouyhead
10-28-2013, 09:08 PM
It appears you aren't using a PCM transmission? I think that would make everything work better with the alignment issues. The engine is designed to sit level, while the transmission has the angle. Now, with that said, I think taller spacers would solve your issue without harmful effects if that gives you the correct angle for the shaft.

When I got the schematic from PCM with all the dimensions it showed the PCM 1.23 gear box with the angled flange. I was pretty sure it wasn't going to fit as the overall dimension with the 1.23 box were longer so they fitted it with a 1.1

DooSPX
10-29-2013, 01:40 PM
So you are using a LHR 1:1 correct? Not the RHR?

Bouyhead
10-29-2013, 03:08 PM
So you are using a LHR 1:1 correct? Not the RHR?

Yes, standard 1.1

1redTA
10-29-2013, 05:59 PM
If you go higher on the mounts I would use a crossmember to tie thing together

Wingnut
10-29-2013, 09:12 PM
mike, this may be a dumb idea but if the you are able to build the stringer up with a spacer that runs the entire length by bolting the spacer to the stringer in several places you in effect make it an integral part of the boat and then allow the engine mount/trunnion to sit at a normal setting. Not sure about the engineering stress but an idea---- BTW i like the look of the TBI-in the crate. )

TRBenj
10-30-2013, 10:11 AM
Like was suggested earlier, the height issue youre running into is because PCM normally uses their engines with the 1.23 down angle tranny... so the engine sits much flatter (ie, front of engine is lower).

I dont like the idea of being at the VERY top of the mounts just for the purposes of the alignment- you dont leave yourself much wiggle room. If you know you can align it, then I would not worry about the stresses of running toward the top- they put that much range of travel into the mount design for a reason. Otherwise, just add taller blocks. Our OMC 454 came from the factory with 3" wood blocks under the front mounts and it stayed in place just fine for 30 years.

Table Rocker
10-30-2013, 10:58 AM
How about checking Indmar for mounts? Since they normally mount at an angle, they might have something that works better.

Bouyhead
11-07-2013, 07:50 AM
Major progress this week. Got the motor mount issue resolved, PCM sent the motor with the wrong mounts that attach to the block. The new ones have don't have as much of a drop so I can discard the spacer block. Many thanks to Richard at DIM who was my go between with the tech guys at PCM. Any questions or concerns with this install was usually answered within an hour.
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Bouyhead
11-07-2013, 07:57 AM
Decided to go with the push lock system instead of hose clamps for the fuel lines. Much cleaner look and this stuff is rated for 300 PSI This is the stuff that they use for the remote oil drain hoses.
First pic is the old barbed fitting removed.
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Bouyhead
11-07-2013, 08:02 AM
Stuff is really easy to work with, cut the hose to length heat up the hose, one drop of oil on the fitting and push the hose on.

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Bouyhead
11-07-2013, 08:14 AM
Routing and hooking up the throttle cable was a no brainer, all brackets came with the motor, I just hooked it up. Throttle cable goes to a potentiometer which is pretty much throttle by wire from that point.


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JohnE
11-07-2013, 08:50 AM
Looking great Mike!

Bouyhead
11-07-2013, 09:09 AM
Looking great Mike!

Thanks John, getting this thing figured out and done before the weather really tanks is the goal.

Bouyhead
11-07-2013, 09:16 AM
Shift cable bracket had to be modified. To get the proper angle on the cable we lengthened the original bracket.

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willyt
11-07-2013, 09:27 AM
you're going to go from a boater to an astronaut, because you're turning your boat into a rocketship.

1redTA
11-07-2013, 09:36 AM
Glad you got the alignment stuff resolved

Bouyhead
11-07-2013, 09:41 AM
Started working on the wiring harness just before dark. Looks like I'll have two extra wires on the boat end of the harness. I ran out of daylight but I've got the fuel pump priming, and it cranks. Waiting for my longer driveshaft to arrive, which can't come soon enough.

Going to leave the Perfect Pass SG head unit in for the bay test so I have a GPS speedo. I'm predicting an easy and lickity split climb to 52 MPH with the 13X13 prop. Looking foward to figuring out the optimum prop for this set up. The goal for the conversion was Zero Off capabilities and 34MPH slalom. Here's a couple of more pics:

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nrojay
11-07-2013, 09:53 AM
Cant wait for the video...you are going to post a video of this BEAST running.
Very nice work

Ben
11-07-2013, 10:17 AM
Badass x 10.

Not sure what the contest would be, but you win by a landslide.

Nice work.

gsxrjtt
11-07-2013, 10:38 AM
so freaking cool

scott023
11-07-2013, 11:13 AM
That looks ultra clean Mike. Awesome work.

Bouyhead
11-15-2013, 09:05 PM
Finally got a day to work on the boat. New shaft is in, got the wiring figured out, and she starts and runs! Shot a quick video but can't figure out how to post. I let it run for about five minutes then gave it a few blips of the throttle, WOW, this motor is smooth and responsive. Big day is tomorrow. Going out early for a bay test. Anyone ever read the break in procedure for a PCM motor? This isn't word for word but you'll get the idea.

After boat is warmed up and underway go to WOT until max RPM is reached, do not exceed max rpm's which is 5300, you should reach max RPM's in 10-20 seconds.

Reduce speed to 2800-3000 and hold this speed for 1/2 hour. Go back to idle, then while underway again go to WOT for 60 seconds. Repeat this cycle occasionally during the first 5 hours of operation.

I understand the quicks loads to seat the rings but I don't think I have a creek long enough to do it for 60 seconds! Should be a fun boat ride.

waterlogged882
11-15-2013, 09:11 PM
Finally got a day to work on the boat. New shaft is in, got the wiring figured out, and she starts and runs! Shot a quick video but can't figure out how to post. I let it run for about five minutes then gave it a few blips of the throttle, WOW, this motor is smooth and responsive. Big day is tomorrow. Going out early for a bay test. Anyone ever read the break in procedure for a PCM motor? This isn't word for word but you'll get the idea.

After boat is warmed up and underway go to WOT until max RPM is reached, do not exceed max rpm's which is 5300, you should reach max RPM's in 10-20 seconds.

Reduce speed to 2800-3000 and hold this speed for 1/2 hour. Go back to idle, then while underway again go to WOT for 60 seconds. Repeat this cycle occasionally during the first 5 hours of operation.

I understand the quicks loads to seat the rings but I don't think I have a creek long enough to do it for 60 seconds! Should be a fun boat ride.Can you use the same OEM engine cover?

Nice looking mod

makes me want one for the old tug I have

Bouyhead
11-15-2013, 09:24 PM
Can you use the same OEM engine cover?

Nice looking mod

makes me want one for the old tug I have

Yes, using the stock motor box. I haven't bolted it in place yet but it looks like a go. Might have to do a little modification to the back inside of the box by the vent/cup holders.

Cloaked
11-15-2013, 09:40 PM
Yes, using the stock motor box. I haven't bolted it in place yet but it looks like a go. Might have to do a little modification to the back inside of the box by the vent/cup holders.
I would love to have your wiring diagram and other details that only you know from doing this mod.

The wiring diagram in particular...if you have captured and documented. It's a work of art :D (thinking back on an old episode of Andy Griffith).

And I gather from your writeup that the tranny matched for fit once you got the correct front engine mounts???

The drive shaft? What did you end up with for the modified shaft (dimensions).

That's a nice looking engine, and a shout to Discount Inboard Marine for being the exemplary folks that they are. I do business with them 99% of the time for my boat needs.

.

Rockman
11-15-2013, 09:44 PM
Finally got a day to work on the boat. New shaft is in, got the wiring figured out, and she starts and runs! Shot a quick video but can't figure out how to post. I let it run for about five minutes then gave it a few blips of the throttle, WOW, this motor is smooth and responsive. Big day is tomorrow. Going out early for a bay test. Anyone ever read the break in procedure for a PCM motor? This isn't word for word but you'll get the idea.

After boat is warmed up and underway go to WOT until max RPM is reached, do not exceed max rpm's which is 5300, you should reach max RPM's in 10-20 seconds.

Reduce speed to 2800-3000 and hold this speed for 1/2 hour. Go back to idle, then while underway again go to WOT for 60 seconds. Repeat this cycle occasionally during the first 5 hours of operation.

I understand the quicks loads to seat the rings but I don't think I have a creek long enough to do it for 60 seconds! Should be a fun boat ride.

That is sure not the way I would break in a new motor...I thought the break in period was to start with an hour of idle and then progress each hour with more rpms and speed until the 6th hour or so and then for hours 6 and 7 were to be various increases and decreases in rpms and speed....

Hope all goes well and you can upload the video! That motor looks awesome!

Bouyhead
11-17-2013, 08:10 PM
Well my alignment issues aren't over. Tried to line up the shaft and could only get it close. The trunnions are binding,making it very difficult to move the motor side to side. Something isn't right with the way I drilled the new holes, the left front trunnion is under a lot of pressure pushing the threaded stud forward. (see pic)Probably should have researched how MC picks the location of where they drill and tap holes. Something tells me the motor should sit a little cocked on the stringers. Anyone have any info on the process from the factory?

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Bouyhead
11-17-2013, 08:14 PM
Boat ride yesterday was little anti climatic as I had a little vibration because the shaft alignment was off but she goes pretty good, 49.6 @ 5170 rpm with a beat up stock 13X13 prop.

Bouyhead
11-25-2013, 03:17 PM
There was no room to re drill the front port side mount so my fabricater made an off set trunnion and we went back to the the stock holes to take the pressure off the threaded stud. Front mounts are lined up pretty good and the motor moves side to side pretty easy now.

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Bouyhead
11-25-2013, 03:25 PM
I would love to have your wiring diagram and other details that only you know from doing this mod.

The wiring diagram in particular...if you have captured and documented. It's a work of art :D (thinking back on an old episode of Andy Griffith).

And I gather from your writeup that the tranny matched for fit once you got the correct front engine mounts???

The drive shaft? What did you end up with for the modified shaft (dimensions).

That's a nice looking engine, and a shout to Discount Inboard Marine for being the exemplary folks that they are. I do business with them 99% of the time for my boat needs.

.

Here's a better shot of the wiring, pretty easy, kind of like connect the dots;)

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Bouyhead
11-25-2013, 03:48 PM
I would love to have your wiring diagram and other details that only you know from doing this mod.

The wiring diagram in particular...if you have captured and documented. It's a work of art :D (thinking back on an old episode of Andy Griffith).

And I gather from your writeup that the tranny matched for fit once you got the correct front engine mounts???

The drive shaft? What did you end up with for the modified shaft (dimensions).

That's a nice looking engine, and a shout to Discount Inboard Marine for being the exemplary folks that they are. I do business with them 99% of the time for my boat needs.

.

All kidding aside the wiring was one of the easier mods. The PCM motor came with an adapter plug and a wiring diagram (well, sort of).

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I temped it in with butt connectors for the bay test but need to do something more permanent. I did wind up with two extra wires on the boat end but everthing seems to be working, gauges etc.

Shaft ended up being 45" which is a common MC size.

mikeg205
11-25-2013, 04:07 PM
There was no room to re drill the front port side mount so my fabricater made an off set trunnion and we went back to the the stock holes to take the pressure off the threaded stud. Front mounts are lined up pretty good and the motor moves side to side pretty easy now.

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Slick solution to which could have been a major problem...

scott023
11-25-2013, 07:48 PM
I said it before, and I'll say it again.

That looks supremely clean. Beautiful work.

CruisinGA
11-25-2013, 08:08 PM
Boat ride yesterday was little anti climatic as I had a little vibration because the shaft alignment was off but she goes pretty good, 49.6 @ 5170 rpm with a beat up stock 13X13 prop.

Was that full throttle or were you holding back to keep it from over-revving?

Bouyhead
11-25-2013, 08:24 PM
I said it before, and I'll say it again.

That looks supremely clean. Beautiful work.

Thanks Scott it's getting there.

Was that full throttle or were you holding back to keep it from over-revving?

That was WFO Bailey! 5300 is redline and ideally they want you to prop it for 5200

CruisinGA
11-25-2013, 08:36 PM
That was WFO Bailey! 5300 is redline and ideally they want you to prop it for 5200

I think there is more speed in your future :D

My X9 GPS's at 47 unloaded with the LTR 330, I don't have any experience, but I would think you would get at least 5 mph faster.

I am running an Acme 3-blade that improved top and bottom end over the stock 13x13. I look forward to hearing what she does with a new prop!!

Bouyhead
11-25-2013, 09:13 PM
I think there is more speed in your future :D

My X9 GPS's at 47 unloaded with the LTR 330, I don't have any experience, but I would think you would get at least 5 mph faster.

I am running an Acme 3-blade that improved top and bottom end over the stock 13x13. I look forward to hearing what she does with a new prop!!

I read all the prop threads and hear lots of good things about Acme, especially on top end speed. But then again, I haven't heard a bad word about Eric at OJ. Should be fun figuring out a prop once I get these alignment issues figured out and get a couple of hours on the new motor.

mikeg205
11-26-2013, 12:10 AM
Went to take a look at my mounts and my port side trunion leans to the bow like yours and mine is factory. I gave my aft motor mounts a very slight lift to get my shaft alignment to spec @ .003. Something I will keep an eye on. Interesting thread.

Bouyhead
12-08-2013, 10:18 PM
I like how this looks.

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Bouyhead
12-08-2013, 10:27 PM
Spent the weekend, in my garage of course:o dialing in my shaft alignment and installing Zero Off. What a pleasure being indoors with heat! One more shakedown cruise to verify ZO is working then I'm off to Florida! Got a little snow coming down, better cover up the old tug before she goes outside.

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JohnE
12-09-2013, 09:40 AM
Fantastic project Mike! You will probably get more top end with a new prop. I clocked 51 with GPS on my '97. (I don't even know what's on it for a prop.)

mikeg205
12-09-2013, 10:47 AM
Looks nice... 51 JohnE - that's fast for a tug... must be a fun ride at 51... :)

JohnE
12-09-2013, 03:37 PM
Looks nice... 51 JohnE - that's fast for a tug... must be a fun ride at 51... :)

I wanted to see how fast it would go. My X14 topped out around 42 mph.

mikeg205
12-09-2013, 03:52 PM
I wanted to see how fast it would go. My X14 topped out around 42 mph.

I get 41-42

CruisinGA
12-09-2013, 04:36 PM
I read all the prop threads and hear lots of good things about Acme, especially on top end speed. But then again, I haven't heard a bad word about Eric at OJ. Should be fun figuring out a prop once I get these alignment issues figured out and get a couple of hours on the new motor.

Eric was great to work with when I had my original 13x13 repaired. At the time, he recommended that as the best OJ had for all-round performance on my boat so I tried the Acme three blade for comparison and it was better. That was a couple years ago so things may have changed.

JohnE
12-09-2013, 05:04 PM
Eric was great to work with when I had my original 13x13 repaired. At the time, he recommended that as the best OJ had for all-round performance on my boat so I tried the Acme three blade for comparison and it was better. That was a couple years ago so things may have changed.

I don't think anything has changed in the prop world since then.