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View Full Version : quick winterize set-up - 06 MCX


mcrowe
10-07-2013, 07:11 PM
Here in Colorado we have fairly variable weather during Oct & Dec. It could be 20 one day and 80 the next. With that being said we would like to be able to extend our season via drysuits. We need to be able to quickily winterize the boat.

One of the neighbors has a ball valve hooked to each manifold drain, each block drain, the water pump and one other location on his nautique (older model without knock sensors). It is really slick and he can winterize in less than 2 minutes (no joke).

Has anyone here done this to an MCX engine? The largest obstacle is the knock sensor(s). Is there a way to incororate the sensor in with this set up?

mcrowe
10-07-2013, 07:52 PM
Also, I am aware that a copper "y" is not a good solution because the copper is not the same desnity as the cast iron block and the knock sensor will not pick up the frequencies it is searching for. With that being said, what about a cast-iron Y fitting?

bjen
10-07-2013, 11:48 PM
Also, I am aware that a copper "y" is not a good solution because the copper is not the same desnity as the cast iron block and the knock sensor will not pick up the frequencies it is searching for. With that being said, what about a cast-iron Y fitting?

My friends centurion has a mercruiser engine and it has a cast y with brass threaded fitting in the block on the knock sensor and a plastic "tap" thing in the other hole of the y. When he opened it up, it was completely clogged with junk and he had to take it out anyway and poke a zip-tie around the hole to get anything to drain. Come to think of it, I think he has the plastic taps in a few different spots.

The little tap things look like a good idea on paper but I'm not sure I would trust them.

mikeg205
10-08-2013, 12:05 AM
Why not just pull the knock sensor - just keep some anti-seize in the threads so you can loosen it. It's not a pressurized system so you don't have to put 300 pounds of torque on the thing. Only takes a few seconds to loosen it.

CantRepeat
10-12-2013, 08:21 AM
I wouldn't call just draining the water "winterizing". If you are only talking for one night just put a 40 watt drop light in the hull under the oil pan. It keep it from freezing for a night.

I would not move the knock sensor into any type of Y drainage system.

bigmac
10-12-2013, 08:54 AM
I've known guys who put brass petcocks on the block between the knock sensor and block with no problem. One concern however is pieces of rust or other such crud in the block can easily clog the petcocks. Anyway, pretty straightforward...after a day on the lake, drain the block, drain the manifolds, pull the raw water hose, blow out or pump out the heater via a flushing T on the heater line. They claimed that took no more than 15 minutes.

Timr245
10-25-2013, 04:35 PM
102557

This is what I did on both sides.

CantRepeat
10-25-2013, 04:37 PM
102557

This is what I did on both sides.

I'd really like to hook my laptop with diacom to an engine with that setup on it and check the knock count. Then measure that against a baseline knock count with the sensor still in block.

Perhaps, I'll do this next spring just for testing purposes.

Indyxc
10-27-2013, 08:28 PM
I'd really like to hook my laptop with diacom to an engine with that setup on it and check the knock count. Then measure that against a baseline knock count with the sensor still in block.

Perhaps, I'll do this next spring just for testing purposes.

That would be interesting, and one of the only ways to verify if that kind of setup actually works.

Are there Mefi tuners you can plug into ECM with an OBD-2 style plug on our boats?

CantRepeat
10-27-2013, 10:29 PM
That would be interesting, and one of the only ways to verify if that kind of setup actually works.

Are there Mefi tuners you can plug into ECM with an OBD-2 style plug on our boats?

No, they are DLC and ICAN connectors.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=968863&postcount=374