View Full Version : Heater install on 2008 X14

09-15-2013, 04:09 PM
New to me X14, after selling my immaculate 1992 Maristar 210 to a friend. I wanted to extend my season, and get an earlier go in the spring, so I decided to install a heater to assist. Researched the project in this great forum and took the leap!

I went direct to Maradyne Marine Products for all major parts. 3 outlet heater, two hot tubes and a single vent for the driver, plumbing kit and the Y fitting. Significant savings with Maradyne. Call for prices. Service was great
- Bought the 3 inch collapsable ducting from Skidim. Ended up using 15 feet of ducting.
- 1 foot 1.25 in wire reinforced water hose from my garage.
From lowes
- 14 gage wire. 3 10 ft lengths, different colors.
- 14 gage inline crimp fittings
- Three 90 degree 1.25 in elbows
- Stainless hose clamps 1.5 in
- Two 3/4 in gate valves
- zip ties
- 15 ft 2 in pvc
- 3 90 degree 2 in fittings
- 2 22.5 degree 2 in fittings
- 2 45 degree 2 in fittings

Heater location decision
- Factory heater is in front of the driver. It looked very cramped, so I decided to mount it in the storage area behind the driver.
- Also selected this location for ease of future maintenance that will be inevitable.
- Heater location will make for easy draining for winterization.

Heater install
- Mounted on .5 inch Starboard cut a little larger than the heater.
- Mounted the two to the port side of the storage area, next to the engine. Used stainless 5/8 2 in bolts, washers and locknuts. See the pics. 1.5 in washers on the visible side. I am assuming the starboard and large washers will stiffen the wall of the storage locker. This might be overkill, but I had the starboard in my garage.
- Had to pull my subwoofer to tighten the nuts on the front. Easy to do.
- Heater vents face up. Aft vent is exposed when the seat is up. I think there is adequate space to move the heater forward under the seat back to hide all three vents, but I had already drilled the mounting holes.

Vents and ducting install
- I cut the driver side hole before routing any ducting. 3 in hole saw. Just in front of front cup holder in the factory location.
- Recommend using a sanding drum to widen all the holes a bit to help with installing the hot tubes and vent. Without doing this, the vents and tubes are very tight. Single vent for the driver would not rotate. Very difficult to pull the hot tubes out. Once widening the holes a bit, they all work as advertised.
- Used a tape measure as my snake for routing ducting and wires.
- Use 4 in hole saw to cut the hole for the hot tube under the observer seat, in the factory location.
- Routed ducting to the port side observer seat. Ran collapsable ducting from the heater, forward under the dash. From there, around the bow under the front seats using 2 in PVC. 45 and 22.5 degree fittings to fit flat on the deck under the seats. I did this so when I throw stuff under the seats the ducting wouldn't collapse. Just couldn't find a way to stuff the collapsable ducting up out of the way and have it stay, and also not collapse.

- Next, routed the collapsable ducting for the single vent to the drivers seat. Had to temporarily remove the forward driver cup holder to attach the ducting to the vent. This ducting sits on top of the ducting to the observer seat.

- Second hot tube went aft, between the two starboard side seats. Used 2 in PVC and the 3 90 degree fittings to run to the hot tube. Block of wood to keep vibration migrating to the heater. Will find a better solution.

Wiring install
- Snaked 3 wires from under dash aft to the heater.
- Wired the blower to the factory wire labeled 'heat low' and 'heat high'. - Blower has three speeds and I only used the low and high wires.
- Factory heater dash switch works great.

Water lines install
- MCX water outlet already had the fitting installed. Hex nut to remove the plug in the factory fitting.
- Plumbing kit had the correct hose fitting to screw into factory fitting, plus other adapters I did not need. Teflon taped the hose fitting.
- Installed both gate valves on the hot and return lines.
- Y fitting installed on the return line before the impeller.
- Ran both water lines to the heater, watch for kinks.
- Remember to remove the black rubber plugs on the heater water fittings.

Cooling hoses.
- Had to manufacture the water intake line to keep my strainer and flush pro functional. Used the three 90 degree 1.25 in elbows and 1.25 in hose, cut to proper lengths.
- Added an extension to my flush pro to make it easier to hook a hose to.
- Zip ties to keep lines from rubbing.
- Doesn't look pretty, but works fine. No temp or rubbing problems.

Works great. Extending my season until I say it's time! Bought the blanket from bakes online for my Sweetie and youngest grandson!

Thanks to all who have posted before me on heater installs. All were very helpful!

07-08-2016, 05:17 PM
Resurrecting an old thread here... great writeup!


07-08-2016, 05:18 PM