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View Full Version : Strut angle adjustment??


Mark rsa2au
09-06-2013, 07:42 PM
Hi guys

Has anyone used washers or similar to place between the strut and the hull. Mine was bent straight but the angle holds the shaft just a little too low so it does not meet the coupling exactly flush. With the motor mounts at their lowest it is still out and not perfect.

While it works, there is still a vibration on pull off and if I can wedge the strut by about 2mm at the rear 2 holes, it will lift the shaft perfectly so that I can alighn the motor properly.

But will it do any damage to the strut or the hull?

mikeg205
09-06-2013, 07:54 PM
a picture would really help.. but I can see the washers putting some extra pressure on hull.. just my opinion.

petermegan
09-06-2013, 08:03 PM
Stop being a tightass and buy a new strut!!

Mark rsa2au
09-06-2013, 08:06 PM
Stop being a tightass and buy a new strut!!

LOL!! I know I should, but I am pouring money into the boat and if it can be done I can spend the $400 on something else!

mikeg205
09-06-2013, 08:20 PM
LOL!! I know I should, but I am pouring money into the boat and if it can be done I can spend the $400 on something else!

Boat - Bring Out Another Thousand... you're way under.. peter's got it right...

Table Rocker
09-06-2013, 08:31 PM
You could also shave the front of the strut. If you have a belt sander you can change the angle some and still keep it flat.

petermegan
09-06-2013, 08:40 PM
You could also shave the front of the strut. If you have a belt sander you can change the angle some and still keep it flat.

I was going to suggest getting it surfaced at an engineer but then thought you may have to insert a shim to keep it at the correct level and it just gets messy.

JerryW
09-06-2013, 09:02 PM
I've done that , used washers as shims, and a lot of 3m adhesive sealant - 4200, tightened it down and wiped off the excess sealant, and it's been fine for a year now. I did switch from the rubber to the OJ Vesconite bushing in the strut at the same time.

Cloaked
09-06-2013, 10:02 PM
I've done that , used washers as shims, and a lot of 3m adhesive sealant - 4200, tightened it down and wiped off the excess sealant, and it's been fine for a year now. I did switch from the rubber to the OJ Vesconite bushing in the strut at the same time.
+1

To the original poster:
Washers at that small thickness should be fine. Worse case is that it doesn't work. Best case is that everything lines up. I see no problems with washers and 4200. Don't use the 5200.

chriscraftmatt1976
09-06-2013, 10:21 PM
Personally, I would never do that to the drive train of my boat, though it may provide results. There's no right way to do the wrong thing. :):):)

thatsmrmastercraft
09-06-2013, 10:24 PM
Personally, I would never do that to the drive train of my boat, though it may provide results. There's no right way to do the wrong thing. :):):)

Hard to argue with this.

Mark rsa2au
09-06-2013, 11:37 PM
Hard to argue with this.

Agreed with doing it right but sometimes it is just not affordable and next best will have to do.

Just done a few searches for a strut.... and my origional estimate of $400 was out a bit.. Locally they are about $600, even if anyone has the 1" shaft size.

If I freight one in from the US it will be about $150 in freight and then the $3-400 for the strut.. if I am lucky!

The idea of sanding the base with a belt sander is a great idea! Exactly what forums are for... great ideas. This should be easy enough to get a few millimeters change and still have a flat surface. If it does not work... well then I will have to get a new one anyway!

chriscraftmatt1976
09-07-2013, 09:50 AM
Report back when you get her done.

Yogi14v
09-08-2013, 08:02 AM
I had a similar situation with another boat a few years back. Rather than pack it out with washers, I bought a piece of brass plate and silver soldered it to the strut/skeg. Then drilled the holes back out and took it to a machine shop with a mill and had the excess material taken off leaving the strut with the required angle and a perfectly flat surface for mounting. Hope this helps .Cheers.

petermegan
09-08-2013, 08:34 AM
Just ordered some stuff from Ski-Dim ( can still add a strut if you wish). I think they were $322US which would be approx.$366AD plus maybe $100 freight. Still major coin but not as bad as it could be. FWIW I have found them exceptional to deal with. Will have my stuff in 10 days usually.Have Fun.

Mark rsa2au
09-08-2013, 09:02 AM
Thanks Peter, great offer! I do want some stuff from the US but the minister of finance in our house does not agree!!

Will be calling the local prop shop first thing in the morning. They originally straitened it for me and might be able to adjust the angle of the strut. It was slightly bent but at the correct angle and I think they repaired it to the Malibu angle which I think is different to the angle specified by MC. Either way I am sure they can work it.

The strut only has a few hours on it with new bearings as well so a shame to ditch it if a little effort ( and less cash) can make it perfect.

Cheers

Mark

petermegan
09-08-2013, 11:29 AM
http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1124, I think this is your's, Mentioned as 16degrees if it can be relied upon. Have fun....

mallees
09-08-2013, 08:02 PM
Agreed with doing it right but sometimes it is just not affordable and next best will have to do.

Just done a few searches for a strut.... and my origional estimate of $400 was out a bit.. Locally they are about $600, even if anyone has the 1" shaft size.

If I freight one in from the US it will be about $150 in freight and then the $3-400 for the strut.. if I am lucky!

The idea of sanding the base with a belt sander is a great idea! Exactly what forums are for... great ideas. This should be easy enough to get a few millimeters change and still have a flat surface. If it does not work... well then I will have to get a new one anyway!

Hi Mark, If you need any parts in Aus, there is a mob in Qld called "MasterCraft Boat Services" 0755304357. I have found them to have very competitive prices and normally have most things in stock. Very helpful also.

Mark rsa2au
09-09-2013, 08:40 AM
Hi Mark, If you need any parts in Aus, there is a mob in Qld called "MasterCraft Boat Services" 0755304357. I have found them to have very competitive prices and normally have most things in stock. Very helpful also.

Nice one Mallees! Thanks!!

TRBenj
09-09-2013, 02:07 PM
Shimming the strut with washers is a absolutely an acceptable repair. Taking a belt sander or grinder to the strut base to tweak the angle slightly is perfectly acceptable as well. I have seen struts vary significantly from casting to casting. Buying a new strut is no guarantee that you wont be back asking this very question after spending $400+.

I would remove the shaft log hose and see how close you are to being centered in the log with the strut as-is. If its off a good distance, then adjust the strut until youre centered. If youre already centered, then there is an issue with the mounting location of the powertrain and I would not attempt moving the strut to accommodate that.

chriscraftmatt1976
09-09-2013, 02:16 PM
Shimming the strut with washers is a absolutely an acceptable repair. Taking a belt sander or grinder to the strut base to tweak the angle slightly is perfectly acceptable as well. I have seen struts vary significantly from casting to casting. Buying a new strut is no guarantee that you wont be back asking this very question after spending $400+.

I would remove the shaft log hose and see how close you are to being centered in the log with the strut as-is. If its off a good distance, then adjust the strut until youre centered. If youre already centered, then there is an issue with the mounting location of the powertrain and I would not attempt moving the strut to accommodate that.

Hmm. For your boat, not mine. Imo.

Mark rsa2au
09-10-2013, 05:36 AM
I called the 2 main prop and strut repair companies in Melbourne for their opinion / quote to correct the angle of the strut. Both dismissed the repair and told be to use large stainless washers as a shim on the rear of the strut, and then to make sure enough silicone is used to prevent water getting behind the strut.
Seeing as the angle change only needs to be about 1 or 2 degrees I may even have to sand the washers down for a lower profile.

I asked both if they see this as risky and both said that it is done all the time with no issues. There is no thrust on the strut, and if alighned correctly there should be very little vibration or movement on the strut either. It does however need to guide a propshaft with 300hp on the other end so make sure it is done up tight. I was told to ensure the bearing was good and it is cause it is brand new, and to make certain that the engine - propshaft alighnment was as per boat spec.

I know some of the purists do not see this as acceptable, but I am willing to give it a go. (seems I am not infected by MCOCD....yet)

Will let you know how it goes.

TRBenj
09-10-2013, 10:13 AM
Hmm. For your boat, not mine. Imo.
This is common industry practice- certainly in terms of repair, and there are many inboard manufacturers that shim, or have shimmed struts to align them from the factory. Top tier ski boat manufacturers included. Heck, your boat may already have washers under the strut and you wouldnt know it!


I asked both if they see this as risky and both said that it is done all the time with no issues. There is no thrust on the strut, and if alighned correctly there should be very little vibration or movement on the strut either. It does however need to guide a propshaft with 300hp on the other end so make sure it is done up tight. I was told to ensure the bearing was good and it is cause it is brand new, and to make certain that the engine - propshaft alighnment was as per boat spec.
100% true. I prefer to grind my strut bases flat instead of shimming, but doing so is still a perfectly acceptable, common practice, for the exact reasons stated above.

agua4fun
09-10-2013, 10:34 AM
Mark, I did something similar, i used washers like your plan - and then made a shim to fill the space under the strut with epoxy/glass. The shim wasn't adhered with the epoxy to anything, just a shim, then i used 3M 4200 on both sides. I ran it that way for 6 months here and it worked great. Last week I hit a log under water, bent the strut more..... I ended up finding a local shop that fixed it for $95 and i removed the shim. If i was to do it over again i would have just had it fixed the first time and no shim, but if your repair cost is really that much - i wouldnt blame you to try - id just keep an eye under there for any stress cracks. Even so, i think it will work just fine. Let us know

Mark rsa2au
10-10-2013, 05:51 AM
Pulled strut, prop and shaft this week.
Used aluminium plate 1mm thick and cut 25mm wide to fit across the rear 2 bolt holes to use as a shim. Used 2 plates in the rear most bolt holes, and one plate in the second row as a step down. Used silicone sealant on all sides, including inside the holes and arround the outer edge of the strut.

The 2mm shim lifted the shaft about 12mm at the coupler end. then spent a LONG time getting the coupling flange to line up perfectly.. and I mean perfectly. The lowest measurment on my guage is 0.01mm (0.004 of an inch) and it was unable to find any gap all around the flange. Should be vibration free now....:toast:

With new cutlas bearing I can easily turn the prop with one hand..

TRBenj
10-10-2013, 09:20 AM
Sounds like a job well done except for the silicone. Thats really not an appropriate below waterline sealant. 3M 5200 and 4200 are commonly recommended, I would say something like Life Boat caulk at a minimum. I think Sika makes something comparable if 3m stuff isnt readily available down under.

Mark rsa2au
10-10-2013, 09:43 AM
Yep used the Sika marine grade silicone sealant. I have done this a few times this winter so far so to pull it out and redo should the silicon not be up to it, will be simple.

TRBenj
10-10-2013, 11:39 AM
I think we are having a communication issue... I believe the Sika/Sikaflex below waterline sealants are moisture cure polyurethanes like the 4200/5200. I think youre using the "silicone" nomenclature generically (might be an Aussie thing?). Sika does make some silicone caulking products for other industries, hopefully that is not what you used.