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View Full Version : Pump tripping breaker.


Topp dawg
09-02-2013, 07:37 PM
My port side jabsco ballast puppy is tripping the breaker every time I turn it on. I just replaced the impeller about a month ago and it was working perfect. After I unplug the pump and plug it back in and reset the breaker I turn it on and nothing. It won't spin up at all. It seems like its not even getting power. Any troubleshooting steps I can try?

mikeg205
09-02-2013, 08:01 PM
mutlimeter - check voltage at pump when on.

Topp dawg
09-02-2013, 08:36 PM
Am I looking for 12v from the power wire?

mikeg205
09-02-2013, 08:38 PM
Yup! follow the wire back to source if no power... Pump - tripping breaker.. not good news... could be seized up.. hope not... or bad ground...

swatguy
09-02-2013, 09:51 PM
Your pump impellar might be stuck to the housing. The breaker might be tripping to prevent the motor from burning up. Have you tried toggling between forward and reverse? OR popping off the impellar housing and pulling that then switching it on? I just burned up a fuse in my johnson this weekend. I flipped it on like always on the way to the riding spot Water never came out the vent Checked and the bag wasn't full. I flipped the fill switch after my boat sat without running the pump for about a week in 90 degree heat. My rubber got stuck and burned up the fuse when i turned it on. Threw a new fuse in and toggled back and forth between fill and drain viola.

Topp dawg
09-02-2013, 09:51 PM
Should i take the impeller out of the pump to see if it is just blocked and unable to spin?

Topp dawg
09-02-2013, 09:53 PM
I did toggle back and forth from fill and empty and nothing. Where would a fuse be located for me to check?

mikeg205
09-02-2013, 09:56 PM
2 electrical issues? pump and blower?

Topp dawg
09-02-2013, 10:22 PM
multiple issues. Blower not working, pump not working, check engine light is on. i am hoping the check engine light is becuase i didnt drive the boat in 3 weeks and the voltage dropped below 10.5 volts, but i dont know how to reset that.

mikeg205
09-02-2013, 10:27 PM
3 turn on and off cycles may do it...

Topp dawg
09-02-2013, 10:32 PM
so turn it on then immediately turn it off and repeat 2 more times? I read somewhere to bring the engine up to running temperature then let it cool down and then bring it back up to run temperature and then repeat.

mikeg205
09-02-2013, 10:34 PM
3 cycles worked on the older ECU's - not sure on 2000 +. Someone will chime in.

Topp dawg
09-02-2013, 10:35 PM
Thanks man. i will try that tomorrow and see if it works.

Topp dawg
09-03-2013, 11:56 AM
I tried the 3 cycles and it didnot turn off the check engine light. The blower magically started working and the ballast pump still doesn't work.

swatguy
09-04-2013, 09:20 AM
I did toggle back and forth from fill and empty and nothing. Where would a fuse be located for me to check?

Yours wont have a fuse if it was from the factory, just the breaker under the switch. Mine was a 4th pump I installed for an integrated bow sac.

Topp dawg
09-04-2013, 04:15 PM
The breaker kept popping out every time i would push the button for fill or empty. I have not had a chance to take the pump out yet. Other than taking the impeller out and re-seating it to check for it being stuck is there anything else i can try?

JRW160
09-04-2013, 04:32 PM
My pump tripped the breaker when the impeller got stuck. That is most likely your problem. If you haven't already, switch to the green impellers. I haven't had any trouble out of them.

Topp dawg
09-04-2013, 09:08 PM
I switched to the green impeller about a month ago. No problems out of my pumps till now.

JRW160
09-05-2013, 01:45 PM
I switched to the green impeller about a month ago. No problems out of my pumps till now.
Green ones don't usually get stuck. I would probably swap the pump with one of the others to see if the problem is in the pump or the wiring.

Topp dawg
09-05-2013, 01:59 PM
i should be able to just unplug the wire harness from the non working pump and switch it with a working pumps wire harness without actually taking out the pump, right? This would let me know if the wiring is the culprit. Is it possible something got into the water line and clogged the impeller from spinning?

Topp dawg
09-05-2013, 08:09 PM
My boat has a ghost. i unplugged my pump and switched the wire harness with a working pump and the one that wasn't working is now working. So i figured bad wiring. So i switched the wiring back and after a few times of toggling the switch on and off the pump started working (all 3 pumps). I still have a check engine light though. Could the battery dropping down to 11.4 volts be causing my check engine light?

Topp dawg
09-06-2013, 10:02 PM
My battery turns out to be bad. After I replace the battery I will see if my check engine light goes off.

Topp dawg
09-10-2013, 09:05 PM
I replaced the battery today and I am still having trouble. The check engine light is still on. And when the boat is running I try to turn on the blower and all my gauges drop to zero like they just lost power except for my perfect pass gauge. The perfect pass gauge consistently reads 13volts. Then after about5 seconds all my gauges go back to normal. And the blower never turns on. Anyone seen this before?

Topp dawg
09-10-2013, 10:28 PM
I was told my blower is tripping the breaker and causing everything else to reset. Will replacing my blower fix this issue? Could the blower also be causing my check engine light?

jakethebt
09-10-2013, 11:00 PM
You are having multiple issues and maybe should check some more top level things. I would look at the battery cables and make sure they are all ok. I would then check all your grounds and make sure they are ok. Not broken or corroded. I would check your alternator connection. Charge the battery and see what happens. You need to do these things just to restore your confidence and convince yourself they are ok. You then need a multi meter. A good one is nice, but a harbor freight one will work. You need one that measures dc voltage and checks for continuity. Unplug your pumps and see what voltage you have. I think the pumps are 12volts. Also check your blower. Once you are convinced you have 12volts look on

Topp dawg
09-11-2013, 07:31 AM
With the new battery the ballast pumps all work perfectly. I am having a mechanic come over tomorrow and he will be checking my electrical system for me. I will probably have him switch out the blower too.

jakethebt
09-11-2013, 10:56 PM
If the battery helped the pumps then it sounds like low voltage. They could have been stuck, but sounds more like a voltage issue. One thing to check on these is the ground wire on the back of the alternator. For some reason, they galvanically corrode bad. I thought my alt was getting weak but when I went to check the ground wire, it broke off in my hand. Put a new end on it and never looked back. Hope your mechanic finds a simple solution.

I am still waiting for someone to explain how to reset the light. Maybe it will not reset until the fault is cleared?

bhanson
09-12-2013, 10:57 AM
TD, were you running the pumps with engine running or not running? If engine not running, then all electrical is off the battery and a bad battery could mean low voltage and, thus, no pumps. If engine running, then alternator dominates the electrical system (14V, 70-100A).

Assuming the pumps are OK, then depending on your answer you might have a bad battery (or just a run-down battery) or a bad alternator.

x2 on Jake's comment. My sound system was overwhelming alternator capacity, so the current draw toasted the alternator wires (esp that little bitty black ground). Everything looked OK until I jiggled the ground and it LITERALLY crumbled in my hands. Rebuilt alternator with 120A kit, upgraded the cables, and all good since.

Topp dawg
09-12-2013, 12:48 PM
I had my battery tested and it was bad, i replaced the battery and the ballast pumps work perfectly (engine on and off). However the blower does not work and i believe it has a short bc all the gauges drop to zero only when i push the blower button. I am swapping the blower out today. I will check the wires on the alternator as well.

I want to thank everyone for giving me tips and advice, without this forum i would be lost and paying a mechanic for every little issue.

Topp dawg
09-12-2013, 10:49 PM
Swapped out the blower and the new one works perfect, however, now the gauges don't work on the dash. Checked battery connections and alternator wires and they were good. Tomorrow I'm taking the dash panel off to look at the backs of the gauges.

jakethebt
09-13-2013, 05:15 PM
Sounds like a good plan. Look for loose wires, corrosion and broken wires leading to no where. I would still check your ground strap. There should be one to the block or tranny but sounds like you are beyond that now.

Topp dawg
09-13-2013, 10:13 PM
Well now I'm upset. My (mechanic) fried all my gauges today. Volt meter, oil pressure, temp, tach, and fuel gauges do not work. Not sure how he fried them but they are not working. Maybe it is coincidence. Is there anything like a master fuze or breaker for the gauges?

Kweisner
09-13-2013, 10:46 PM
My tach with the LCD display failed and caused all other gauges to stop working. I unplugged the tach/LCD and all other gauges started working again. After replacing with a functional tach/LCD all was good. Try unplugging the tach and see if you have the same luck.

Topp dawg
09-13-2013, 10:53 PM
I will try that tomorrow. Thanks for the advice

Topp dawg
09-13-2013, 10:54 PM
Do I have to use mastercraft gauges or can I replace them with faria gauges?