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View Full Version : How to seal ski locker from engine bay?


Zad
08-18-2013, 03:31 PM
I have a '94 prostar 205 that is new to me and the bulkhead that separates the aft end of the in-floor ski locker from the engine compartment is cracked around the perimeter allowing water from the engine compartment to move toward the bow into the ski locker. Do any of you have suggestions on what to use to seal this? I am thinking a silicone or some type of plastic weld. The plastic weld idea I am questioning as I am not sure it would take the flexing that the hull goes through. Is there a silicone that would hold up to small amounts of oil and fuel exposure or is there some other compound I should be looking at?

sp00ky
08-18-2013, 04:25 PM
I have the exact same boat and fixed this issue with rtv silicon. I originally tried JB water weld which didnt hold. The RTV has been good for 2 years now.

Its a pain keeping it dry I keep a sponge in the boat for keeping this area dry. I also prop it open when stored.

Zad
08-18-2013, 05:57 PM
Hey, thanks. Will head out to pick some up. These specialized sites are so great for info like this! I use one for my duramax as well and as a moderate diy'er I love it! Thanks again.

sp00ky
08-18-2013, 06:21 PM
no problem and this forum rocks, members are willing and able to help. I got our boat about 2 years ago and have been loving it.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Also, check the condition of your blower hose mine came loose in 2011 and wire wrapped around prop shaft and ripped up the Rear main trans seal. I was able to fix it fairly quickly for only $15 with the help of CantRepeat.

It sucked but it could have been much worse and it took awhile to wire cut all that out. I am still seeing tiny bits of old blower hose.

Also skidim.com is amazing resource and parts supplier

Zad
08-18-2013, 07:24 PM
I just noticed my blower hose is hooped last week. If I get my arse in gear I will get that ripped out today or tomorrow. I am having some engine issues, stops firing after I gun it, the surges, cuts, surges then either dies or starts running fine. If it dies, it starts right up and might do the surge, cut dance again or runs fine after starting up. I posted in another section and hopefully can get it sorted out.

mikeg205
08-18-2013, 08:58 PM
I am fixing mine after this season... I will post up pictures.

john jones
08-19-2013, 09:03 PM
Mine is sealed with a small piece of fiberglass. If you want some pics let me know.

mikeg205
08-19-2013, 09:04 PM
Mine is sealed with a small piece of fiberglass. If you want some pics let me know.

always post up pics... :)

Zad
08-20-2013, 03:32 PM
*&%$#!, meant to take and post photos and completely forgot. Did the repair with black rtv silicone last night and it looks good on land, we'll see how it holds up under oil/water and pounding. Also replaced the bilge pump and thankfully the wiring was intact and it works both on manual and auto. Now, fix the trailer brakes, new decals, new blower hose, new shocks for the engine cover, a bit of gelcoat work (just got the gelcoat from Spectrum Color yesterday) and get the engine running perfectly and it will be ready to sell next spring.

mikeg205
08-20-2013, 04:37 PM
*&%$#!, meant to take and post photos and completely forgot. Did the repair with black rtv silicone last night and it looks good on land, we'll see how it holds up under oil/water and pounding. Also replaced the bilge pump and thankfully the wiring was intact and it works both on manual and auto. Now, fix the trailer brakes, new decals, new blower hose, new shocks for the engine cover, a bit of gelcoat work (just got the gelcoat from Spectrum Color yesterday) and get the engine running perfectly and it will be ready to sell next spring.

No pictures... soooooo didn't happen... ;) - them's the rules...

prostar205er
08-21-2013, 02:39 PM
Anyone have any great solutions for simply plugging the hole between the locker and the engine? I've tried those rubber plugs but they don't seem to hold. I also have a bunch of engine oil residue on the sides of the locker that I would love to get out. I've cleaned it with dish soap but it hasn't been 100% successful. Any suggestions?

mikeg205
08-21-2013, 02:43 PM
Anyone have any great solutions for simply plugging the hole between the locker and the engine? I've tried those rubber plugs but they don't seem to hold. I also have a bunch of engine oil residue on the sides of the locker that I would love to get out. I've cleaned it with dish soap but it hasn't been 100% successful. Any suggestions?

To clean - totally awesome cleaner... mine is squeaky clean. My plug works - but I need to reseal sides. Right now I jack up front of trailer - let water drain - then throw in a rolled up towel to absorb residual water... then I leave towel in make a rolled up towel damn in bilge drop trailer tongue down... for rest of water to drain thru drain...

I keep my boat in my garage so I am able to get it bone dry during non use.

prostar205er
08-21-2013, 02:53 PM
Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a shot. I don't trailer it all the time so I'm fighting a losing battle, but to get it cleaned out would add some peace of mind... Then again, I don't open it much so it is also out of sight, out of mind. ;)