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Wingnut
08-16-2013, 10:22 AM
New to this forum and been a long time fan of Mastercraft- Decided to take on a project. Bought a major hammered 1998 205 - been in salt water, abused, neglected and sat for 4 years. A real sad testimate to irresponsibility. I will post pics as I go. EVERYTHING has to come out and this will be a labor of love. I will have to remove the Engine, tranny, shaft prop rudder etc. First question. The Motor and tranny mounts are completely rusted , need to remove them and remove engine and eventually replace them. If I can unbolt them can I unbolt the mounts from the boat, pull engine and tranny and then replace mounts anew? If so best practice? Where to get new motor mounts. Thanks, First of many questions. Wingnut

mikeg205
08-16-2013, 10:32 AM
wow.. good luck - welcome.. looking for forward to read and seeing the rebuild...

start here for engine mounts... http://www.skidim.com/searchprods.asp?searchstring=engine+mount&pagenumber=2&val=0

blackcreek
08-16-2013, 11:50 AM
Start by spraying every nut,bolt,mount etc. with PB blaster or liquid wrench. It won't hurt a thing to start soaking the rust. Where in the southeast do you live? If you live near the Jacksonville Florida area I have lots of shops I can recommend. I restored a 1997 205 and had to unbolt the mounts on the side of stringers to get the engine out. The bolts that hold the mounts to the stringers were stainless and I was able to break them free without a lot of force. You could also unbolt the mounts at the engine block and transmission interface if the bolts are not too badly rusted. I was able to restore my mounts to workable condition by soaking them in an oil bath then using lots of elbow grease and a drill with wire brush. If you replace them or rework the mounts be sure to take measurements so you can set the new or reworked mounts back to the same settings so the engine alignment will be much easier.

*I see you are from the Tampa area.

There are lots of prostar resto threads here is one with some links and pointers. http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=52998&page=2

thatsmrmastercraft
08-16-2013, 12:00 PM
Welcome to Team Talk. You definitely have your work cut out for you but it will all be worth it in the end. be sure to take lots of pictures as you take things apart. It may be awhile before they go back together, and if your memory is anything like mine, well.......where was I?

Keep up posted on your progress and don't hesitate to throw those questions out. There will be someone here who has the answer.

Good luck. :toast:

Wingnut
08-16-2013, 05:27 PM
Ok its 900 degrees down here in Florida, so working outside in an inferno and always fun (not). Got the interior mostly ripped out. Would like to redo with skins but its gonna be foam and skins on many pieces, will start estimates later. anyone used an overtons bucket seat (wise) instead of redoing MC seat? I exposed the drive train and after three days of PB plaster finally got the rudder to move and removed. The cable tube is welded together (galvanic corrosion) and will result in a new cable and tube. Removed the gas tank (Moeller 32 Gal ) and found about 5 gallons of Varnish and tar in the bottom- That was fun, but got it all cleaned out and will have to order new sending unit and fittings as well as pick up. Any leads? I've contacted Moeller via email- no reply yet. Will call next. The Engine and tranny mostly likely toast- Manifolds totally rusted on as well as many parts on engine. Raw water pump fused and my guess is that the interior ports of the engine are in the same condition. Blackcreek thanks for the feedback Ill do that but these mounts are pretty much gone- Where can I find new ones? Tranny (Hurth 450D) doesnt sound very smooth as I turn but no overt leaks, but its gonna have to be checked out and triaged. the coupler looks welded together. Sooooo Next is to get prop off. Shaft out and then start the removal of the engine and tranny and start really accessing the possibilities. More later Rebuild Engine or New?? Any advise on Michigan motors: changing over to PCM from Skidim;or other on engine redo. Thanks to all and anyone chime in? Thanks Wingnut

mikeg205
08-16-2013, 05:42 PM
www.isspro.com for sending unit. Moeller has a catolog for the other fittings.

Can you take another pic of the bow? Would like to see where your cushions were bolted in.

For the hoses find a local shop... I found one by me - Fuel line is cheap. Took me about 3 days to find a shop for fuel lines.. tranny lines can be purchased at Parker Stores.

mastercraft1995
08-16-2013, 05:51 PM
That would be an awesome project.

SkiDog
08-16-2013, 07:28 PM
damn what a project! Good luck with that one pal! If you're close to Tampa area, then you're close to Bay Area Water Sports. You'll be able to find a lot of what you will need from them. Call Jim over there. 813-996-2297 (BAWS). As far as upholstery, there's a shop right next door to them, that does great work. Have fun with this project! never seen a boat quite that abused!

Jeffer
08-16-2013, 08:54 PM
I, like all others here, can't wait for each of your posts as you bring her back from the dead. And if it's any consolation, my high school sweetheart looked worse than this when I saw her at the last reunion, and there NO hope for her...you, at least, have hope...and elbow grease...and time. As long as you are having fun, it'll be worth every hour you spend (again, not so much with my old girlfriend, but I digress).
Good luck, post often, and MANY pictures!!

maxpower220
08-16-2013, 10:42 PM
I recently purchased a 97 205. If you need a reference for where things go during the assembly, come over and take a look. I am in New Tampa.

jsturvey
08-17-2013, 12:00 AM
That looks rough! Good luck on the restoration. When you get a chance, post some pics of the boat exterior.

h2oski89
08-17-2013, 12:53 AM
Good luck, I restored an 89 ski centurion early this summer replacing the floorboards, then sold it and bought a 2006 Mastercraft X9. Be VERY happy that Mastercraft is all fiberglass!

Wingnut
08-17-2013, 12:31 PM
Ok have to take my son and drop him at college so there will be a couple of day lull here. MIKEG here are the pix of the bolt holes for the front cushions. If you need it from different angle let me know. Pix of Engine (sad) and tranny and mounts as well as exterior. Dark blue areas are color once just a little elbow grease applied. It comes back nice. Again appreciate any info on anyone who has done a repower with any advice as to who to go with look at. Thanks wingnut

mikeg205
08-17-2013, 12:51 PM
Ok have to take my son and drop him at college so there will be a couple of day lull here. MIKEG here are the pix of the bolt holes for the front cushions. If you need it from different angle let me know. Pix of Engine (sad) and tranny and mounts as well as exterior. Dark blue areas are color once just a little elbow grease applied. It comes back nice. Again appreciate any info on anyone who has done a repower with any advice as to who to go with look at. Thanks wingnut

Thanks... Did not see the hangers before - Thought cushions were only held in with christmas tree plugs.. like front cushion...

mikeg205
08-17-2013, 12:54 PM
salt water and iron - yikes... looks like hull in good shape.

what's your estimated budget on the complete restoration?

gsxrjtt
08-17-2013, 02:22 PM
hey maxpower 220 where you located im about 10 min from you what lakes you skiing

blackcreek
08-18-2013, 12:03 PM
salt water and iron - yikes... looks like hull in good shape.

what's your estimated budget on the complete restoration?

New, used, rebuilt? Living in Florida has it's advantages when looking for used boat parts. Your mechanical ability and amount of time you are willing to invest in parts search and repair will greatly impact the final cost. I would toss the block and heads and go with a rebuild or used. If you buy from a rebuilder you should also factor in the core cost. I doubt a rebuilder will take that motor for a good core. If you know how to rebuild a chevy V-8 you can easily come in around a 1000 bucks for a do it yourself used motor. Just about any early 90's chevy pickup engine with throttle body injection can be converted cheaply if you have the tools and can match casting codes. Things I would go new on are the manifolds, engine water pump, transmission cooler, and flex plate.

blackcreek
08-18-2013, 12:22 PM
Be VERY happy that Mastercraft is all fiberglass!Except for the side panels. Unless they changed the panels in 98 I can almost guarantee that his panels are rotted where the speakers are. My 97 205 also sat out in the elements due to an abusive prior owner. I made new panels, sealed then with epoxy, checked for fit then delivered them to the upholstery shop.

Wingnut
08-20-2013, 05:57 PM
Well back from dropping son off at college. Big Day. Took time to sit back and try to prioritize the next steps. So 1) had to adjust trailer ASAP cause it isn't a M/C trailer and the boat was maladjusted and boat had weight on the the front skeg as well as bout 1000 lbs on tongue weight, so plugged the rudder hole and took her to the boat ramp. Dropped her in., some leaking around shaft packing (no surprise there) and everything else held. So back on the trailer and all is now set up more correctly. 2) Spent rest of the afternoon, cleaning and stripping the rest of the stuff out. BLACK CREEK- One panels busted , one holding together. But its not very study- Will most likely cut them anew. Bought a Porter Cable buffer and started to figure out best foam pads , compound etc to use. 3) Called Viper to start the quote process for the interior. Received several endorsement and we will see if its possible. 4) Next challenge- Get the prop off, coupling separated and shaft out. Then 5) continuing to do research on the engine part. I'm pretty handy but thinking new whole shebang turn key- any suggestions are appreciated. MAXPOWER220- Sent PM to get phone number. polished the front so people will quit bugging me about how back it looks. That wasy they can see the potential. All for now.

Wingnut
09-12-2013, 10:23 PM
Havent posted for a while so heres the latest update:
Synopsis-
1) Engine- Pulled engine and as suspected its gone- Manifolds ( intake and exhaust) both ruined - Intake holes corroded- Exhaust - rusted almost closed. heads corroded - May be able to salvage, a big maybe. So after many options and adding up costs my thoughts are that I'm going to buy new Indmar from Michigan Motorz.
2) Mounts- rusted frozen- So got them all out - after three bolts breaking off- Tapped them out and cleaned up the engine compartment. New mounts inbound.
3) Tranny- Mounts gone- but tranny being gone thru and may be just seals and cleaned up- Drive plate just ripped in half in removal- Bell housing is good.
4)Drive shaft/Prop-Shaft pitted beyond repair due to galvanic corrosion, Bushings heated up and removed in pieces - Prop was sand blasted and cleaned up and is saved- (OJ 4 Blade 12x13)
5) Gelcoat- Turning out niiiice.

Next - get pieces and parts together for engine installation.
research carpet install. Still unsure about interior- Jim at Viper is the best way for sure but its an expensive endeavor- Viper is good price I'm just low on Money- looking for options , engine blew my budget to keep from being upside down. I'm thinking thru different angles- Anyone bought an after market Drivers seat ( Attwood, Wise etc??) Anyway any feedback is welcome. Later Wingnut

blackcreek
09-13-2013, 03:03 PM
Crankshaft, rods, and cam are probably still good and can be reworked by a local rebuilder. A block and heads can be sourced pretty cheap just check around at the local yards or rebuilders. I have always had luck with the local rebuilders, they know all about marine applications in Florida. Spending your money on shipping a block across country will wipe out any savings if you have a warranty problem.

Wingnut
09-13-2013, 11:43 PM
Yeah the problem for me is even if I salvaged the innerds and stick it in a new or rebuilt block and heads , there isn't really anything salvageable or trustworthy with respect to rest of the engine, i.e. intake manifold, carb, distributor ,wire harness, both water pumps ,pullies, belts alternator, fuel pumps, hoses and other engine and marine systems. I keep adding up the component costs and its not too far off the cost of a full turn key engine with no warranty so thats what is sending me the turn key route. Talked to several marine rebuilders here and they end up about the same costs once all the bells and whistles are on it- I cant seem to make the money add up to less. I have really gone round and round on this- Would actually like to find someone who wants to upgun and sell off a low time engine but no luck.

steepndeep
09-17-2013, 09:39 PM
Wow! Never thought I would see a boat on here that looks worse than mine! Hey at least yours came with a trailer :) Sounds like youre off to a great start. Take pictures while you tear stuff apart. a drill and a wire wheel does wonders for all the brass parts. Mine had barnacles growing on them they sat in salt water so long, they look almost new after some elbow grease. Looks like your hull is in great shape after a good buffing. Keep the pics coming!

CC2MC
09-17-2013, 11:20 PM
I have a contact that has a built LT-1 engine. Don't know the specifics on it, but as I recall it puts out around 400hp. I will see if I can find some more info on it if you are interested.

Check out the thread for a little more info.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=52434&highlight=built+lt-1

eriksen4
09-18-2013, 11:23 AM
Just went through the same with mine. Replaced with a 351 longblock from Rapido Marine. Read a bunch of reviews (some good, some bad). Mine was great, little trouble with shipping dates, week later than promised. $1,500 and no core charge. Motor mounts from skidim matched up perfectly. new manifolds, risers, water pumps from ebasicpower (quite a bit cheaper than skidim). Mine was very similar to yours, engine condition wise. have bunch of paperwork for parts if you need information.

Bouyhead
09-18-2013, 12:13 PM
Yeah the problem for me is even if I salvaged the innerds and stick it in a new or rebuilt block and heads , there isn't really anything salvageable or trustworthy with respect to rest of the engine, i.e. intake manifold, carb, distributor ,wire harness, both water pumps ,pullies, belts alternator, fuel pumps, hoses and other engine and marine systems. I keep adding up the component costs and its not too far off the cost of a full turn key engine with no warranty so thats what is sending me the turn key route. Talked to several marine rebuilders here and they end up about the same costs once all the bells and whistles are on it- I cant seem to make the money add up to less. I have really gone round and round on this- Would actually like to find someone who wants to upgun and sell off a low time engine but no luck.

Wingnut, I have a 96 ProStar w/ the 275 TBI engine. I'm considering doing a total repower so i can upgrade to Zero Off. I would be selling my motor as a complete package less the transmission. Motor was freshened up a few years ago when I installed a closed cooling system. I'm trying to dig up a picture. A complete package, probably 300+ hours since it was rebuilt. Extras include Orca closed cooling system, & Perfect Pass speed control. ECM, throttle body, wiring harness, mounts, brackets, etc all in great condition. PM me your contact info if interested.

Mike

46Chief
09-18-2013, 12:25 PM
Wow, thats a project, The good thing is MC Hulls are pretty solid. I spent last winter agonizing through the whole dilemma of what am I gonna do with a saltwater motor, for my 209 (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=52220). it came with an Indmar LTR, unfortunately Indmar no longer makes the intake manifold, which made it impossible to reuse the fuel injection system which forced me to find a new solution that didn't require a new engine, fuel injection and gauge package. I got lucky and found a similar year donor boat with 200hrs and was able to just drop a donor motor and transmission in. I am extremely pleased with the supposed downgrade of going from the LTR to the 310hp Predator TBI motor.

I'd avoid michigan motors, check into Barr Marine, Florida Inboards, or start calling local marinas, and machine shops. You might get lucky.

The only argument that justifies a 10k repower is that the fuel injection will work with Zero Off speed control. And you still have to spend more $$$ to get the gauges to all play nicely.

I'd entertain the idea of buying a vortec chevy motor, have it overhauled and either put a carb on it, or buy an aftermarket fuel injection. Go buy a hot rod or car craft magazine and search through the ads, there are a ton of tuneable options. Some people might hemorrhage ar the idea of a non marine fuel injection due to fire issues. My feelings is I know my boat inside and out since I tore it down and put it back together. Before I turn the key, I lift the cover check the bilge,pull the dipsticks, check the oil levels and smell for fuel.

Your'e going to feel overwhelmed quite often, but there are numerous resources out there to get you through the problems you'll encounter. Just keep at it and when in doubt move onto another part that you know you can make progress on.

maxpower220
09-18-2013, 12:33 PM
Since you are at this point, I would suggest a 6.0L instead of the 5.7. Cost would seem to be the same. Just a thought.

cbryan70
09-18-2013, 12:38 PM
Wingnut, I have a 96 ProStar w/ the 275 TBI engine. I'm considering doing a total repower so i can upgrade to Zero Off. I would be selling my motor as a complete package less the transmission. Motor was freshened up a few years ago when I installed a closed cooling system. I'm trying to dig up a picture. A complete package, probably 300+ hours since it was rebuilt. Extras include Orca closed cooling system, & Perfect Pass speed control. ECM, throttle body, wiring harness, mounts, brackets, etc all in great condition. PM me your contact info if interested.

Mike

how much for just the perfect pass? :D

Bouyhead
09-18-2013, 01:03 PM
how much for just the perfect pass? :D

Sorry, not gonna part it out. Besides I'm still using it!;)

Wingnut
09-19-2013, 12:39 PM
Bouyhead- sent you PM.

Wingnut
09-19-2013, 12:41 PM
Why do you say avoid michigan motorz - curious- sounds like they are taking the motors directly from Indmar and testing and shipping. Not sure, just asking. Thanks

Bouyhead- Sent PM

Wingnut
09-19-2013, 12:58 PM
While I debate the engine decision and the fate of whether the tranny is salvageable, decided to get on the outside. So started with a myriad of suggestions from web sites as to the best way to restore this babies Gel coat. Sanding, polishing, this sander, that sander, this compound, that pad. Whew man, i'm sure all of them work but had a friend who is a professional boat detailer come over and he did in 10 minutes what I had worked on for an hour. So here is what is working for me. Rotary buffer with wool two sided bonnet, Adjustable speed buffer, 3M high gloss polishing compound, (West Marine - some expensive stuff) put it on with a paintbrush evenly and slowly work back and forth on small section. If there are some sections or places that are so badly oxided that it doesn't look even, the 1000 grit wet dry sandpaper with water and tiny bit of soap, circular patterns then redo the polishing compound. Finish with 3M Finese-it ( more expensive stuff) then wax with some tougher than crap UV wax and buff. So far it is turning out well. The top side is next and lots of nooks and crannies- Although it is cooling off up North (i'm told) its still a furnace in Mid florida so can only hit is for couple of hours before I'm toast. Thanks to everyone for your comments on the reclamation project. Its fun but its more fun to share it with Enthusiasts like those of you here. Till next post.

maxpower220
09-19-2013, 01:21 PM
Looks good. I went to a auto paint supplier to get buffing compound. They had marine specific stuff for about 1/2 price of West or other marine suppliers.

thatsmrmastercraft
09-19-2013, 01:25 PM
Looking great. When finished, are you going to operating your boat in freshwater or saltwater?

Bouyhead
09-19-2013, 02:34 PM
Looking good Dave.

Check your inbox.

Wingnut
09-19-2013, 05:55 PM
More than likely will operate in a mixture of both- However I am a fanatic about boat care. i live on an island so nearest lake is some 30 miles away.

fz1dba
09-19-2013, 10:02 PM
Amazing transformation, great work!

Wingnut
09-24-2013, 06:13 PM
Anyone- The block was cracked, heads and internals trashed beyond redo stage.Really sad how someone can let this happen. looking for options- Anyone got an mid time engine you're upgrading and wanna sell? New turnkey is ridiculous but thats where I am. Help.

Bouyhead
09-24-2013, 10:32 PM
Be patient Dave, you have a very desirable boat there. Something will come up. If you decide to go the long block route I have a set of used manifolds & risers that have a few good years left in them, just pay the shipping.

I sent you a PM about the motor.

Wingnut
09-25-2013, 09:15 AM
Seats and carpet are next- Looks like I'm headed the VIPER way- got to figure best shipping technique or Road trip time- Need to see the leaves change anyway! Heads up Jim. Fuel tank overhaul kit courtesy of the fine folks at Moeller Marine. Thanks Mastercraft Tech team for finding the shaft Log replacement- No more metal ones- Great! Searching for carpeting tips.

maxpower220
09-25-2013, 10:35 AM
It's amazing to me that your 98 205 is so different in little things than my 97 205. That fuel tank isn't even close to the shape or attachment points as mine. The design of the seat vinyl pattern is different too.

Wingnut
09-26-2013, 11:55 PM
Disassembled the motor mounts after soaking in tranny fluid and brake fluid which works pretty good BTW. Ordered replacement parts and ready to but in back half off the the drive shaft and coupler. Awaiting Tranny. Still looking for love on the engine-

mtajpa
09-27-2013, 09:14 PM
For carpet check out the specials at Corinthian Carpet.

https://corinthian-marine-carpet.com/uploads/setting/attachment/11/Retail_Specials__9.11.13_.pdf

Wingnut
10-01-2013, 04:07 PM
Anyone know where to get a new engine wiring harness- i.e. the 10 pin connector that connects behind the dash and goes to the motor- bout 14 ft?? need the flat 10 pin to a flat 10 pin one.

AlbertaSurfer
10-01-2013, 05:16 PM
I didn't search it, but try Great Lakes Skipper. They have a ton of out of stock MasterCraft parts.

Wingnut
10-09-2013, 11:41 PM
Since last post have located and engine from a fellow team talk member, Have installed new steering clamp block, steering cable , steering tube, reinstalled new shaft bushings, new shaft, coupler, engine and transmission mounts. Carpet arrived today and thanks to Shawn at Corinthian for the speedy delivery. Headed to Viper tomorrow and looking forward dropping off Friday morning. Upon return its installing carpet, fuel tank and lines, blower hoses and hopefully taking delivery of engine and tranny (my other was condemned). Replacing the skibar mount and front tracking fin mount- Welds broken and plate bent ( I have no idea how some one could trash a boat this bad- Thanks to Lex at Rambo marine for rifling the shelves to find a replacement. Some pics attached.

thatsmrmastercraft
10-09-2013, 11:59 PM
Great progress.

Wingnut
10-24-2013, 02:01 PM
Ok folks Prepping for carpet and pulled up carpet in front storage areas under seats. Glad I did. The inner liner has become debonded from the hull in the forward section. 1) Anyone had this happen, 2) how'd you fix it, 3) I assuming it may have fed water into the hull- Yes or no? - Appreciate any input. Thanks Wingnut

blackcreek
10-24-2013, 08:57 PM
Almost looks like they over foamed it during construction and popped the seam. I doubt much water got in there. That is an easy fix because you don't have to be especially neat. Feather the edges out lightly an inch on each side with a grinder and use about a two inch wide strip of thick biaxial cloth and epoxy resin. Grind and clean, cut the cloth to fit, mix resin, wet seam down, lay up the cloth, wet with more resin until it is wet through, let it dry. Done. Epoxy is more costly than fiberglass but in this case it doesn't take much and will stick much better and is far easier to work with as it has almost double the working time of fiberglass.

Wingnut
10-24-2013, 09:04 PM
Blackcreek- Thanks for the reply, Do you think I need to pry the gap open and slather some epoxy putty in the joint prior to bonding the outside. The port side is a pretty large gap and i have to press down to get it to join up. guess I could stand on it for an hour. I have drilled a hole on the one side to see inside- the foam is wet but seems to be drying out.

Wingnut
10-24-2013, 09:18 PM
Viper sent me the shots of the new interior. Looks Great - Im Siked. Had to replace alot of the hardware and the only part I thought was good - the rear seat bottom turns out the seat was busted and the honey comb was cracked in half. Sooooo. Will have to schedule a trip in the near future to load up the ole family van and ROAD TRIP.

blackcreek
10-24-2013, 10:04 PM
Blackcreek- Thanks for the reply, Do you think I need to pry the gap open and slather some epoxy putty in the joint prior to bonding the outside. The port side is a pretty large gap and i have to press down to get it to join up. guess I could stand on it for an hour. I have drilled a hole on the one side to see inside- the foam is wet but seems to be drying out.

You could try to wet inside the seam but you really need a clean sanded down area for the resin to stick to. You could cut a 2x4 long enough to jam under the seat and force the seam back down while the seam is drying. I would just grind and bond and call it a day, the seam doesn't have to be pretty, just functional.

thatsmrmastercraft
10-24-2013, 10:04 PM
Viper sure does great looking work.

scott023
10-24-2013, 10:34 PM
Viper sure does great looking work.

No doubt. Those look fantastic.

bturner2
10-25-2013, 07:20 AM
They're expensive and some have said they are not responsive but dang they do a great interior. I'd be tempted to pull a boat from MI down there if I was looking to restore an interior.

Very nice indeed.

Wingnut
10-28-2013, 06:49 PM
Received last of the pictures of the drivers seat from Viper. Carl does nice work for sure. On the bow area inner hull debonding issues. Used ADTEC P-17 High Temp Adhesive to bond the hulls with pressure provided with 2x4 blocks pressed into the under seat area. Then glassed over with 10 oz triaxel glass strip. Came out nice . tight and sturdy. On to carpet next. Motor in the near horizon.

Wingnut
10-31-2013, 09:44 PM
Been working on a couple of things- 1) carpet installation - 2) and Mastercraft pop up cleats install. Pictures posted. Picking up interior from Viper next week. -Engine and transmission due in week after and then installation and hook up- Fuel tank going back in tomorrow

thatsmrmastercraft
10-31-2013, 09:49 PM
Looking great!

blackcreek
11-02-2013, 11:02 AM
Nice job Wingnut!

bochnak
11-02-2013, 08:46 PM
Wow! Looks great man! Keep the pics coming.

scott023
11-02-2013, 09:56 PM
Looks darn good.

neil.anderson63
11-03-2013, 08:48 AM
Well done! :toast::toast:

Stritt
11-04-2013, 03:09 PM
Carpet looks great. That is a project I need to do this winter, any tips to offer? I have a 97 205 so its just like yours, did you lift the deck to get the carpet underneath or cut around?

Wingnut
11-04-2013, 10:58 PM
Carpet looks great. That is a project I need to do this winter, any tips to offer? I have a 97 205 so its just like yours, did you lift the deck to get the carpet underneath or cut around?
1) glue discussions were very interesting to wade thru. I used DAP indoor outdoor carpet glue- which I couldn't find locally so had to order thru Amazon supply. A gallon did me just fine. Trowel on, let set up then press carpet in. 2) I ordered Corinthian carpet - Called Shawn in Portland and was shipped here in three days. 32 Oz is lighter than what came out but fine for me. I unscrewed the bow sections and used a car jack with 2x4 to pop up the fiberglass sections a bit. 3) used a hooked carpet blade to cut and trim. Great tool but shape as crap- dont stab your fingers you WILL Leave a blood trail. (from experience). 4) you have to watch the thickness of the carpet if you have panels that fit together. Cooler in floor for me was tight fit. 5) I chose to take out the bottom portion of the side panels to gain floor space. 6) Save 14 inches wide x 14 feet to do the engine box bottom to match.7 Premark all the screw holes in the floor. I didn't and used the brail method of sticking an awl thru 200 times where I thought the hole was to find the screw holes.

blackcreek
11-07-2013, 10:19 AM
Stritt, On my 97 I pretty much did it the same way except I did not replace the carpet under the bow seats. I ran the rear carpet in two pieces with the seam under the kick panel, just seemed easier to work with two smaller pieces. It looks like wingnut ran the front seam the same place I did just in front of the ski pole. I also used a curved carpet blade to cut the carpet back under the front seats. I bought my carpet all in one big lot from the upholstery guy. He did the engine lid and kick panel carpet along with the new skins and I did the carpet while I was waiting. Here is the thread on my 97 carpet install. It looks like wingnut did it the same except I can't tell if he ran a seam along the rear kick panels or not. I used outdoor carpet glue but don't remember the particular brand name, wish I remembered because it is holding up well. I ended up filling in a lot of the screw holes in the floor with epoxy since some of them were stripped anyway. I filled in the drivers seat screw holes and moved the base to my liking then drilled new holes. I used straight pins with little yellow beads on the end from my wifes sewing stuff to mark the holes in the panels, I just poked them through the carpet in the screw area untill I found pay dirt.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=37643&page=2

blackcreek
11-07-2013, 10:47 AM
I like this, where did you get them?


http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=102732&stc=1&d=1383266628

Wingnut
11-08-2013, 07:35 PM
I like this, where did you get them?


http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=102732&stc=1&d=1383266628
Blackcreek, I found them on this site from a member in the for sale section- Ill have to look up the name . He had a bunch of 4 " (what I bought) and some 8 " too. Very reasonable $25 a piece plus shipping for the 4 inchers.

Wingnut
11-08-2013, 07:37 PM
Posting name was CaptinCarson.

Double D
11-08-2013, 07:45 PM
I like this, where did you get them?


http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=102732&stc=1&d=1383266628

Blackcreek, I found them on this site from a member in the for sale section- Ill have to look up the name . He had a bunch of 4 " (what I bought) and some 8 " too. Very reasonable $25 a piece plus shipping for the 4 inchers.

Posting name was CaptinCarson.

Pretty sure he is sold out.... :( But worth asking.

Stritt
11-09-2013, 10:19 PM
1) glue discussions were very interesting to wade thru. I used DAP indoor outdoor carpet glue- which I couldn't find locally so had to order thru Amazon supply. A gallon did me just fine. Trowel on, let set up then press carpet in. 2) I ordered Corinthian carpet - Called Shawn in Portland and was shipped here in three days. 32 Oz is lighter than what came out but fine for me. I unscrewed the bow sections and used a car jack with 2x4 to pop up the fiberglass sections a bit. 3) used a hooked carpet blade to cut and trim. Great tool but shape as crap- dont stab your fingers you WILL Leave a blood trail. (from experience). 4) you have to watch the thickness of the carpet if you have panels that fit together. Cooler in floor for me was tight fit. 5) I chose to take out the bottom portion of the side panels to gain floor space. 6) Save 14 inches wide x 14 feet to do the engine box bottom to match.7 Premark all the screw holes in the floor. I didn't and used the brail method of sticking an awl thru 200 times where I thought the hole was to find the screw holes.

Thanks for the write-up! Will be tackling in spring.

Stritt
11-09-2013, 10:33 PM
Stritt, On my 97 I pretty much did it the same way except I did not replace the carpet under the bow seats. I ran the rear carpet in two pieces with the seam under the kick panel, just seemed easier to work with two smaller pieces. It looks like wingnut ran the front seam the same place I did just in front of the ski pole. I also used a curved carpet blade to cut the carpet back under the front seats. I bought my carpet all in one big lot from the upholstery guy. He did the engine lid and kick panel carpet along with the new skins and I did the carpet while I was waiting. Here is the thread on my 97 carpet install. It looks like wingnut did it the same except I can't tell if he ran a seam along the rear kick panels or not. I used outdoor carpet glue but don't remember the particular brand name, wish I remembered because it is holding up well. I ended up filling in a lot of the screw holes in the floor with epoxy since some of them were stripped anyway. I filled in the drivers seat screw holes and moved the base to my liking then drilled new holes. I used straight pins with little yellow beads on the end from my wifes sewing stuff to mark the holes in the panels, I just poked them through the carpet in the screw area untill I found pay dirt.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=37643&page=2

Thank you. Looked at your write up, I thought about seaming under panel down sides, looks good. Our carpet is seemed where you have a seam in fron of the observers seat, original carpet so factory placed in same area.

Our carpet is a light grey and havent found a match so will have to do the whole boat to keep consistent. Our biggest issue is it is loose through the walkways. Your interior looks great. We will be shopping the upholstry guys around here, lucky to have Viper and others 20-30 minutes away.

Wingnut
11-16-2013, 05:31 PM
Picked up interior- Thanks to all at Viper- Especially Carl who did a great job and Tommy who helped load it up in the family van- Yes the entire interior WILL fit in a honda van. Installed the front seating area and the side panels- Look great. Did final buff and applied decals from BAWS- installed fuel tank and fuel lines. Reinstalled driveshaft, rudder, steering, prop and coupler. Ready for the engine! Engine arrived Thursday- Looks great- Thanks Mike. Rebuilt the Morse MV3 control- That was interesting. installed control cables. Next stop- Engine installation, alignment and systems component checks- Not worried about the engine but what wires and gauges work and what doesn't. Until then. Yahoo it's coming together!!

sdrew
11-17-2013, 07:49 AM
That boat is going to be amazing!

Wingnut
11-26-2013, 08:58 AM
Well Happy Thanksgiving to all on this forum. Work got in the way of progress but managed to get the engine uncrated and installed in the boat. A few pictures. (its nice to have construction friends with fun toys) to help get it in. Cranks but doesnt start - think the harness and wiring are the problem- will fool with it after Thanksgiving- No worries-

mikeg205
11-26-2013, 10:33 AM
awesome work... just like having a brand new boat... :) - awesome job.

jmhjgh
11-26-2013, 11:42 AM
I think your boat and new interior are turning out fantastic. In looking at your picture for the front bow, is it possible that the left and right seat cushions are on the wrong sides? I don't think mine has a gap on the seat cushion and the back cushion near the windshield.

Dynamite Spike
11-26-2013, 12:09 PM
What do you do about the busted honeycomb rear seat bottom? Mine is not broken, but it is bent due to people standing on it over the years. Does anyone know if this material can be reworked i.e. straightend

mikeg205
11-26-2013, 01:05 PM
Weird seeing items screwed into the gas tank.

soacj
11-26-2013, 02:32 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=103380&stc=1&d=1385470636

Best. Engine. Hoist. Ever.

helton333
11-26-2013, 02:55 PM
This is all very impressive. Nothing like creating something over time with effort. Congrats all the way around.

madcityskier
11-26-2013, 05:06 PM
When I first opened this thread I felt sick for that poor boat. When you said labor of love, you weren't kidding. That hard work has created something to be proud of for a long time to come. Nice work.

blackcreek
11-26-2013, 08:34 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=103380&stc=1&d=1385470636

Best. Engine. Hoist. Ever.
I love overkill. Lower the motor into the boat or lift the boat onto the motor.

Wingnut
11-26-2013, 10:59 PM
I think your boat and new interior are turning out fantastic. In looking at your picture for the front bow, is it possible that the left and right seat cushions are on the wrong sides? I don't think mine has a gap on the seat cushion and the back cushion near the windshield.
Thanks Ill look at it. You may very well be right- It does look a bit off center.

Wingnut
11-26-2013, 11:05 PM
What do you do about the busted honeycomb rear seat bottom? Mine is not broken, but it is bent due to people standing on it over the years. Does anyone know if this material can be reworked i.e. straightend

Several options - White Board or composite board- Both pretty expensive. Viper used 1 inch Plywood- fiberglass covered both sides and 3/4 x 3/4 aluminum square rod screwed into the bottom the entire width. A bit heavier but it seems to work- the aluminum honeycomb just snaps and crumbles when straightened. Some folks have made an additional center folding support that helps when people stand on it. Ill send a picture if you desire.

Wingnut
11-26-2013, 11:08 PM
When I first opened this thread I felt sick for that poor boat. When you said labor of love, you weren't kidding. That hard work has created something to be proud of for a long time to come. Nice work.

Thanks for the encouragement- Its nice to have it coming together- It has been a fun adventure and in large part to this forum.

Wingnut
11-26-2013, 11:10 PM
Weird seeing items screwed into the gas tank.

I thought it weird too- Moeller folks have been great and yep the screws are sealed but thats the way it came.

Wingnut
11-26-2013, 11:11 PM
I love overkill. Lower the motor into the boat or lift the boat onto the motor.

Why use a tap hammer when you can use a sledge , huh????

Dynamite Spike
11-27-2013, 12:28 AM
Wingnut, how many feet of carpet did you end up needing? Was it a PIA scraping off all the old glue?

Dynamite Spike
11-27-2013, 12:29 AM
Several options - White Board or composite board- Both pretty expensive. Viper used 1 inch Plywood- fiberglass covered both sides and 3/4 x 3/4 aluminum square rod screwed into the bottom the entire width. A bit heavier but it seems to work- the aluminum honeycomb just snaps and crumbles when straightened. Some folks have made an additional center folding support that helps when people stand on it. Ill send a picture if you desire.

Yes, please PM me a picture. Thanks!

Wingnut
11-27-2013, 11:21 PM
Wingnut, how many feet of carpet did you end up needing? Was it a PIA scraping off all the old glue?

I used 21 x 7.5 ft. I was lucky because the glue was so old and exposed that it came off pretty easy. Ill pm you a photo of the seat bottom after thanksgiving. I don't have capability at this moment.

Dynamite Spike
11-28-2013, 02:04 AM
I used 21 x 7.5 ft. I was lucky because the glue was so old and exposed that it came off pretty easy. Ill pm you a photo of the seat bottom after thanksgiving. I don't have capability at this moment.

I started pulling my carpet out today too. As with you, the glue is so old and dry it has turned to powder. So happy I won't have to spend hours scraping glue off the surface.
I've really gotten motivated after reading about your redo!

mikeg205
11-28-2013, 01:21 PM
I started pulling my carpet out today too. As with you, the glue is so old and dry it has turned to powder. So happy I won't have to spend hours scraping glue off the surface.
I've really gotten motivated after reading about your redo!

I have the same with my adhesive... hope to get a few more seasons out of it before I do it... How will you be getting the carped under decking.

Dynamite Spike
11-28-2013, 06:24 PM
I have the same with my adhesive... hope to get a few more seasons out of it before I do it... How will you be getting the carped under decking.

I guess I'm going to cheat a bit. The carpet under the observer's seat and in the storage areas under the bow seats is still good...so it won't be replaced. Last night I pulled out all the carpet forward of the engine box (driver's area, walk-through and bow area). I just used a very sharp knife and cut the carpet right at the edge of the deck. It looks like I should be able to slightly tuck the new carpet in the gap between the deck and the floor.
The carpet came out in one piece so I will have good templates to use. If I'm not too stuffed with turkey, I'll continue with rest tonight!

Wingnut
12-02-2013, 10:24 PM
Well back at it after eating too much Turkey. Workied on small engine challenges and found three problems. 1) the distributor cap had no continuity between coil and rotor button. Weird. Ignition trigger went kaput and had a fuel bubble in the fuel line. with the help of Tony Davis, fixed those and VAAAROOOOM. Like a champ. Alignment looked OK so decided to stick it in the water to see if I have any leaks- So backed it in and looks good cept I had followed the old pictures for Shift linkage. WRONG. The PO had hooked it up backwards. (Doesn't surprise me based upon the original condition of the boat) Well I decided to launch it to check out alignment and other stuff just idling around. All is good - heck even half of the gauges worked. But docking with shift linkage reversed was interesting- So It was a happy day- I'm on the home stretch- Got some tightning, cleaning squaring away and then it will be done!!!
I will say I do not have alot of positive things to say about the redesign of the Sureflow flushers by PERKO- Leaks right out of the box. Later Winging it by WINGNUT

Wingnut
12-02-2013, 10:27 PM
I started pulling my carpet out today too. As with you, the glue is so old and dry it has turned to powder. So happy I won't have to spend hours scraping glue off the surface.
I've really gotten motivated after reading about your redo!

Dynamite - Great Im glad its had a positive influence- Good luck- I really have learned a ton from the folks on this forum. Wingnut

Wingnut
12-02-2013, 10:29 PM
Dynamite Spike- I still owe you the picture of the rear seat- Will send it tomorrow. Sorry for the brain fart

Dynamite Spike
12-03-2013, 12:43 AM
Dynamite Spike- I still owe you the picture of the rear seat- Will send it tomorrow. Sorry for the brain fart

No problem, Wingnut....I guess we've all been busy this past weekend.

Ironhorse
12-03-2013, 09:22 AM
Another Mastercraft SAVED!!! It looks great.

Wingnut
12-03-2013, 09:35 AM
Dyno here are the pictures of the rear seat redo- 3/4 CDX plywood fiberglass coated with reinforcing 1x1 aluminum bar across- as I mentioned some folks have screwed in a center support to help the seat from busting when stepped on in the center as most folks are apt to do. Myself included.

Dynamite Spike
12-03-2013, 10:24 AM
Thanks Wingnut. Looks good!

Wingnut
12-03-2013, 11:18 PM
Dynamite Spike- I still owe you the picture of the rear seat- Will send it tomorrow. Sorry for the brain fart

Several threads about the rear seat another is a "98 205 rear seat" also. here is another http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=44584

Dynamite Spike
12-04-2013, 05:44 PM
Wingnut, that link doesn't work for me.

Wingnut
12-06-2013, 09:40 PM
Update 12/6- Have installed battery on/off switch and front passenger seat. Replaced engine oil pressure and clock found at a surplus store. Getting ready to start finishing touches. Awaiting replacement PERKO Flush Pro- first one had several cracks in the plastic. PERKO folks and SKIDIM folks are great- Thanks Karen and Gail. Planning to have this baby in the water running before Christmas.
DYNO- Sorry about the bum link- if you search this forum for rear seats you will find several folks have redone theier honeycomb seats.
question : Anyone got a 67" Radar Senate they wanna sell? Im suggesting christmas ideas to my wife. Smile ;-) More pictures to follow.

Wingnut
12-08-2013, 09:56 PM
Well its getting close, pictures of the battery switch in the glove box. Installed the rear seats, rear panels and passenger seat. Had to modify the seat rails for the driver seat but works well. Just waiting on the Flushpro and its going in the water for final tests. Fixed the fuel gauge, (bad connection) temp gauge ( bad wire in dash) and installed oil pressure gauge, Painted steering wheel and mounted, Next is rear floor panel and engine box and Should be ready to go for sea trials!!!!! Ill do a before and after pix show in a few days. Happy Holidays to all.

Bouyhead
12-08-2013, 10:12 PM
Looking great Dave! The race is on! Looks like you and I are on our way to completion. As soon as my boats done I am southbound, destination Okeeheelee, West Palm Beach FL.

blackcreek
12-09-2013, 12:00 PM
I am not a flush-pro fan as I also had problems with a cracked housing. I use a very simple mercruiser system that works great. http://www.michiganmotorz.com/mercruiser-engine-flush-p-3334.html I got mine at boat house discount marine for half the price listed in the link. The T fitting is metal and goes in just before the raw water pump and shoots the water up into the pump. When you are done flushing and turn the motor off the water back flows through the tranny cooler and flushes any weeds back out the intake. I mounted the fitting right next to the ski pole under the engine cover. The valve opens when you connect the male and female ends together. I leave the hose turned on all the time at my dock and just pull into the boat lift, raise the engine cover and plug the fittings together to start the water flow. By the time I lift the still running boat out of the water and do a clean up the engine is done flushing. I then turn the motor off and let the water back flow out the tranny cooler for a minute or so.

Crappy picture of the mounting but just above my thumb you can see where I mounted the female valve fitting with the supplied mounting bracket. The large metal pipe fitting is simply spliced in between the tranny cooler and the raw water pump.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k304/blackcreek123/PICT2536.jpg

You are missing some excellent late season weather. A shorty wet suit and 80 degrees had me out all weekend with my other two ski buddy neighbors.

Wingnut
12-11-2013, 04:54 PM
Mike, Blackcreek is right 80 degrees and beautiful are you on a boat run or ski run.!!PM me. The boats going in the water on Thursday for maiden voyage, , Blackcreek thanks for the flush tutorial, I actually was going to do something similar to what you did. However PERKO did redesign the Flushpro and encased the two halves with a clamp similar to a hose clamp. We will see how it does but initial feel is a big improvement. Yahoo!

Wingnut
12-14-2013, 10:57 PM
Well the target was to finish before Christmas and so here we are. Ill not bore you with a ton of verbiage. Before and after!

Wingnut
12-14-2013, 11:02 PM
Last set of pictures. If Santa has a 67" Radar Senate or Vice Ski out there let me know!!! Cheers Dave

Dynamite Spike
12-14-2013, 11:47 PM
Wow Dave! What a fantastic result! Enjoy your baby...you've certainly earned it. I'm more motivated than ever after seeing those photos

JDC
12-15-2013, 09:43 AM
Very impressive! :toast:

Eljaybee
12-15-2013, 10:26 AM
Fantastic! I love the color. Best of luck with your new boat!

blackcreek
12-15-2013, 10:33 AM
Sweet! If your going to keep running in saltwater get a can of Boeshield and spray everything metal under the engine cover. The stuff simply works.
http://boeshieldt-9lowes.blogspot.com/

Double D
12-15-2013, 11:49 AM
Love the before/after pics. You did a great job and the boat looks great!!


Sent from my New iPad Mini using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

sully
12-15-2013, 12:07 PM
Wow!! Wingnut you are an incredible craftsmen! Looks awesome! Thanks for saving that classic!

mikeg205
12-15-2013, 12:33 PM
awesome - !!!

RadarDad
12-15-2013, 02:18 PM
First off, you did a great job! Next I really have to wander why anyone would like a boat get like that.

CC2MC
12-15-2013, 03:04 PM
Looks great! That hard work will really pay off for you! Enjoy all the memories you will make and probably have already made.

jsturvey
12-16-2013, 12:13 AM
Awesome to see new life brought back to a boat that, for lack of a better phrase, had been left for dead. Congrats on the restoration! Enjoy!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

Towboatcapt
12-16-2013, 07:24 AM
Looks amazing! Great Job!

MikeyOrange88
12-16-2013, 01:24 PM
I'm equally impressed with not only the immense amount of work and the quality, but the timeline it was done in. I see the thread started in mid-August this year and to be basically complete four months later is astounding, at least to me. I can only get about a day a week to work on boat projects. Dang job(s) keeps me occupied the rest.
Fantastic job overall.:D

cwarndahl
12-16-2013, 05:09 PM
I just saw this thread for the first time. it read like a guys romance novel. wow and i mean wow wingnut, what a nice, fantastic awesome job. i was waiting for the pic of it in the water. if you could put it to film you'd be an oscar winner for best male drama on a forum. AWESOME JOB!!!!

Wingnut
01-07-2014, 12:11 PM
Hey Blackcreek or Mike205, does anyone have a picture of how the hydraulic lift springs are mounted on the engine box. when I redid the engine box I kept the floor mountings but dont know how the factory hooked up the lifts to the box. anyone have picts would appreciate it. happy new Year.! Wing

strad
01-09-2014, 07:59 PM
It's so nice to see good work being done. That is a beautiful result! I'm sure it was expensive, but for what you have gotten (a new boat) I'm sure the end cost was reasonable.

blackcreek
01-21-2014, 08:56 PM
Do you still need the motor box pictures. I have not been on in a while. If memory serves I just used the ball stud with a washer on the inside and outside of the motor box.

Wingnut
01-24-2014, 11:24 AM
Black Creek- It would be helpful- I have the floor brackets- Just not sure how they are spose to attach to the box, where they attach and how big a hydraulic spring and what the throw is. Any pics would help. Thx, Wingnut

Wingnut
01-24-2014, 11:37 AM
Mike 205 pics as requested- Goes from battery (not pictured) up along inside rail of seatback (pic 1) then to the switch (pic2) and back down to the starter. The switch is located on the aft side of the glove box (pic3) facing forward - Bit blind with glove box cover in the way. Wingnut

Wingnut
01-24-2014, 11:41 AM
pics as requested

Dynamite Spike
01-24-2014, 12:02 PM
Here is a photo of the gas spring from my 96 PS205.
20" long in the extended positionhttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/25/ugydadym.jpg

prostar205er
01-24-2014, 03:10 PM
Thanks for the photos Wingnut. One more item for "the list".

Regarding the hydraulic springs for the engine cover, does everyone keep those on? My originals went bad and my replacements were too strong and pulled the cover out of place so I retuned them and have just left the old ones off. Was my problem the "throw"?

There are times I miss them...like when my toes nearly get crushed.

Bouyhead
01-24-2014, 04:05 PM
Thanks for the photos Wingnut. One more item for "the list".

Regarding the hydraulic springs for the engine cover, does everyone keep those on? My originals went bad and my replacements were too strong and pulled the cover out of place so I retuned them and have just left the old ones off. Was my problem the "throw"?

There are times I miss them...like when my toes nearly get crushed.

It's usually not the "throw" but how many pounds they are rated for. I'm thinkinking your application is a 40 pounder on each side.

blackcreek
01-28-2014, 12:44 PM
Black Creek- It would be helpful- I have the floor brackets- Just not sure how they are spose to attach to the box, where they attach and how big a hydraulic spring and what the throw is. Any pics would help. Thx, WingnutLooks like warm weather this weekend so I will take the boat out and take a few pics of the motor box while I am at it.

prostar205er
01-29-2014, 03:12 PM
It's usually not the "throw" but how many pounds they are rated for. I'm thinkinking your application is a 40 pounder on each side.

You are correct. (The rare time that bigger isn't better.) So is throw the amount of distance they travel?

Wingnut
01-30-2014, 10:49 AM
Pix of the inside of the box would be greatly appreciated- I have procured mounting parts but still not sure where they go on the box itself. It is spose to be nice Sat and Sun here too.

Wingnut
01-30-2014, 10:53 AM
Mike, Throw (at least for me) is what the distance is when they are fully extended. As I understand the springs are fully extended when the box is up and open and they are compressed when box lowered- therefore providing both resistance when putting it down ( not allowing smashing of toes unless you are very slow) and assisting in not having to do a 70 lb Bicep curl when opening it up.

Buoyhead- Hope you survive the superbowl and weather!!!! Hang tough. Wing

Wingnut
01-30-2014, 11:02 AM
Update for me on the project: 1/30- Going to redo the full alignment this weekend, Still running low RPMS- 3500 at full throttle (prop?), Unclogging speedos, recalibrating tach, relocated closed circuit cooling overflow tank, redid my old connelly front boot still looking for an reasonable upgun (Radar Senate, Annex etc.)) , ready to get my old butt at it, and last but not least : I am having sooo much fun with the residual crap in the fuel tank after cleaning. Ethanol is still stripping some residue out of nooks and crannies of the gas tank. Whew- 3rd set of filters so far. I love corn!!! May have to find non corn stuff. its all good!!! Wingnut

prostar205er
02-03-2014, 03:34 PM
Pix of the inside of the box would be greatly appreciated- I have procured mounting parts but still not sure where they go on the box itself. It is spose to be nice Sat and Sun here too.

Took a couple of shots inside the box over the weekend. Hopefully they come through ok and get you what you need.

prostar205er
02-03-2014, 03:35 PM
Took a couple of shots inside the box over the weekend. Hopefully they come through ok and get you what you need.

(Darn iphone...never knows which way is up!)

blackcreek
02-03-2014, 04:50 PM
Both of my shocks are springlift brand SL 34 60. They are all over ebay or the the interwebs, and probably at the local napa.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k304/blackcreek123/PICT3262_zpse27a4849.jpg

The center of the bottom bracket is 11 1/2 inches from the front edge of the rear motor mount and 1 1/2 inches in from the edge of the stringer.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k304/blackcreek123/PICT3261_zps5de62eeb.jpg

The motor box brackets are 12 inches from the rear lip of the motor box (take the measurement from the rear straight edge not the curve).

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k304/blackcreek123/PICT3259_zpsc9097ca8.jpg

I can't remember if I made the brackets on the motor box but I just bolted it straight through with the nut for the lift stud on the bottom. I should of gone stainless on the nut because it is rusting a bit after 6 years. A touch of paint will fix it but you can't really see it when in the boat.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k304/blackcreek123/PICT3260_zps4dfd01b4.jpg

Keep in mind these measurements may need to very slightly from yours depending on where you bolt down the rear motor box hinge. My motor box front edge almost touches the ski pylon.

Wingnut
02-07-2014, 10:58 AM
Blackcreek- thanks Mucho- Just what i needed. I found the stainless version of your mounts at a discount house around here should you need additional ones- Im gonna be up in Atlantic beach this weekend- Cheers. Wing

Wingnut
02-07-2014, 11:03 AM
OK read alot of threads here and was surprised to see oil choices ranging from 20W-50 conventional to synthetic to 15-40 diesel CJ4 oil. I've seen similar discussions in motorcycle forums before too. So at the risk of starting a big debate- 1996 5.7 TBI - Stick with 20W-50 as books say or other?? Kaboom there it is.:D

Wingnut
02-07-2014, 11:06 AM
Need to replace the badly worn out safety stickers on the rear of the boat and the drivers seat side. See pics. Advice?

TxsRiverRat
02-07-2014, 11:54 AM
Need to replace the badly worn out safety stickers on the rear of the boat and the drivers seat side. See pics. Advice?

Why not remove them and leave them off?

I replaced my warning sticker with this. My GF didn;t even notice it until I told her at the end of the season. :D

http://s1.postimg.org/pjyxnfocf/warning_sticker.jpg

Dynamite Spike
02-07-2014, 01:06 PM
Oh Wingnut...you're going to be in a world of hurt ;-)

mikeg205
02-07-2014, 01:27 PM
OK read alot of threads here and was surprised to see oil choices ranging from 20W-50 conventional to synthetic to 15-40 diesel CJ4 oil. I've seen similar discussions in motorcycle forums before too. So at the risk of starting a big debate- 1996 5.7 TBI - Stick with 20W-50 as books say or other?? Kaboom there it is.:D

oil discussion... game on!!!! ;)

MCOCD takes you to Synth VR1 20w50 with a napa 41060 synthetic long oil filter.... ;) --BAM!!

BF200
02-15-2014, 11:40 AM
http://garzonstudio.com/capacities-decal/4x4-a.html

ncsucarjock88
02-15-2014, 01:10 PM
That's a great restoration. Very nice work. I hope the boat was free when you got it... in the shape it was in, it had almost zero value. Awesome work bringing one back from the dead.

2RLAKE
02-23-2014, 08:39 PM
wow ... i can't believe what you did ... incredible!

I've been going through tons of refurb threads this weekend .. hoping to start on my '93 project next month ... having the boat 4 hours away doesn't help!

Wingnut
02-25-2014, 07:37 PM
Thanks for the kudo- I see Lake Norris and my brother is up there with my 89-190 is up there. Good luck with the resto If I can be of any help. give a shout. Nut

Wingnut
02-25-2014, 07:39 PM
That's a great restoration. Very nice work. I hope the boat was free when you got it... in the shape it was in, it had almost zero value. Awesome work bringing one back from the dead.

Yeah it started out as a good idea and became a labor of love- Little value but now Its valuable to me!!! Who hooo

Wingnut
02-25-2014, 07:43 PM
oil discussion... game on!!!! ;)

MCOCD takes you to Synth VR1 20w50 with a napa 41060 synthetic long oil filter.... ;) --BAM!!

MIke I followed you lead on the oil- Synth VR1 20w50 with a napa 41060 synthetic long oil filter- Thanks Wing

mikeg205
02-25-2014, 07:44 PM
MIke I followed you lead on the oil- Synth VR1 20w50 with a napa 41060 synthetic long oil filter- Thanks Wing

awesome! enabling... :D

Wingnut
03-05-2014, 09:48 AM
Sorry couldnt resist. Running well- Got the first ski in on it- Boat did better than the old man- But a great day none the less.

gsxrjtt
03-05-2014, 10:15 AM
Is that the sandbar by longboat key? If so was just there last sunday

thatsmrmastercraft
03-05-2014, 10:16 AM
Sorry couldnt resist. Running well- Got the first ski in on it- Boat did better than the old man- But a great day none the less.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=106957&stc=1&d=1394027195


That looks fantastic.

Wingnut
03-07-2014, 11:13 AM
Is that the sandbar by longboat key? If so was just there last sunday

Yes it is Longboat sandbar and it was last Sunday- I was on the North side cause my son was on the South side with a bunch of friends in my boston whaler on Spring break. Left there and went to Mar vista for a Margarita!!. What were you in?? next time give a shout- we are out there a fair amount. If I remember you are in Tampa? Wingnut

Wingnut
03-07-2014, 11:14 AM
That looks fantastic.

thanks alot

mcklein57
03-15-2014, 07:38 PM
Any suggestions on where to get a replacement gas tank for a 1988 MasterCraft?

Wingnut
03-17-2014, 06:53 PM
I worked with Moeller who put the original tank in my 98 205 for parts and they were very helpful. I think if I was gonna do it again I would have one made. There are alot of manufacturers out there who can custom design and build tanks- Moeller is a mass produced and can be plastic or metal- Rayco is another company that specializes in metal refab tanks. Speedy tanks out of jersey works too. Original tanks were plastic and some dont fare too well with ethanol. Im still cleaning mione out after 8 tank fulls and 3 filter changes and one fuel pump.

Wingnut
04-15-2014, 09:15 PM
Ok folks been a while- between family things and other projects- Boat is running very good. Finally picked a "new to me" ski - D3 X5. Timing and weather hasnt work to ski yet but its close!!! Still working out the ethanol gummies so another set of filters down. Runs good- Am having a challenge with the fuel pick up that is similar to another guy on the forum so got to find a fuel pick up "extender" which looks like an upside down funnel, cause when I get below half tank I am getting air in the pick up. (too shallow) Anyone got one then hollar, Pix attached. Happy Easter all on the forum.

Wingnut
04-16-2014, 07:59 PM
Just bought a cover from skiboatcovers.com. I am a happy camper. Quality first rate, quick turn around, quality service from Mike who called to make sure all was right and it arrived and looks great!!!!

bturner2
04-17-2014, 08:18 AM
Nice cover. In retrospect I wish I would have taken the option to go over my platform too.

EarlyriserX9
04-17-2014, 10:12 AM
Looks great!

Ryan
04-17-2014, 02:22 PM
I love these restoration threads. Very nice work!

gatorguy
04-17-2014, 02:34 PM
I love it!!! Great job! I have a '97 205 that is not near as bad off as yours was, but it is ready for carpet, vinyl, a good buff, new decals, and a stereo upgrade, and a new tower if I went all out. I keep flip flopping in my mind between doing the resto vs a new/newer boat. The cost of the resto plus current value of boat goes a long way towards something new. On the other hand I love my 205 and feel like I'm cheating on it any time I entertain the idea of a new boat.

damaged442
04-17-2014, 04:29 PM
I don't know how I ever missed this thread. Wingnut, you are a rockstar! To see what that boat was to how it looks now is amazing. Great effort to keep another MC alive!

NU-skier
04-30-2014, 11:56 AM
Great job!
I have a 98 205 that I have owned since new. Let me know if you ever need any pics or measurements etc.
Can't believe the transformation from what you started with to the finished product.

DonB
05-01-2014, 12:59 AM
Wow, great job.

Wingnut
06-10-2014, 03:04 PM
Havent updated for a while but have learned two things- darn it I should have had the tank professional stripped and cleaned cause the ethanol residue is killing me- Another set of filters down. Additionally alternator gave up the ghost- Guess this means when your ammeter is reading 11 and you think its just old and worn out. Not a good thing if you don't check its accuracy- new Alternator and - Magic. Skiiing up a storm and my knees are felling it.

Did the McMASTER-CARR Insulation box and couldn't be happier- Pix to follow. Summer is here!!

Wingnut
06-10-2014, 03:11 PM
Engine box insulation job.

205er
06-15-2014, 01:55 AM
Wingnut, I haven't been on this forum much and just went through all your pictures and posts from start to finish. You are a true craftsman! You make all of my restoration projects on my 1992 Prostar 205 look half-fast. Your work is inspiring me to get to work on all the little nits that remain on my boat. Unfortunately, I can't blame anybody for abusing my boat because I've owned it since it was new....

Congratulations on a fine result. I hope your fuel tank gremlins are nearing the end of their days.

Wingnut
06-16-2014, 12:30 PM
Thanks 205er- I get my inspiration from the folks on this forum. It is amazing the amount of information and help you get just throwing it out to these great folks. Good luck with yours- If I can be of any help - give a shout. Dave

blackcreek
06-17-2014, 12:03 PM
What thickness insulation mat and glue did you use on the motor box?

Wingnut
06-17-2014, 06:10 PM
What thickness insulation mat and glue did you use on the motor box?

From McMaster-Carr- 1" Heavy duty Foil Sided with peel adhesive backing- Comes in 54" wide roll- Bought 8 Feet and it was enough- Wasnt cheap- $140 with $25 shipping - arrived next day. Adhesive STICKS well but had to clean the old crap off the box which wasn't fun at all.

Wingnut
06-17-2014, 06:11 PM
Ran it today for the first time at speed- Niiiicce- really quieted it down- Book says 60% reduction- I think every bit of that.

Wingnut
06-17-2014, 06:16 PM
finished the trailer prop guard for non M/C trailer and happy the way it turned out- First prototype more under the trailer forum -" bolt on trailer prop guard"

Wingnut
08-27-2014, 11:17 AM
Ok haven't posted for a while because I'm having too much fun. Replaced manifold riser gaskets , retighted steering brackets, replaced Impeller, found out that weeds are a pain in the A** . Otherwise she's running great and been (free) skiing and floating whenever we can. Daughter bought me a M/C shirt and hat so I am totally official!!! Anyway just and update- Hope everyones summer is going great!!

Wingnut
08-27-2014, 11:26 AM
pictures of summer

mikeg205
08-27-2014, 11:27 AM
Ok haven't posted for a while because I'm having too much fun. Replaced manifold riser gaskets , retighted steering brackets, replaced Impeller, found out that weeds are a pain in the A** . Otherwise she's running great and been (free) skiing and floating whenever we can. Daughter bought me a M/C shirt and hat so I am totally official!!! Anyway just and update- Hope everyones summer is going great!!

awewsome! weeds suck.. I check my trans cooler / backflush if I wind up running on a particularly weedy day.

Ski it up - what shirt ;) no pictures.. just sayin...

Wingnut
10-11-2014, 04:42 PM
Looking for an international barefoot boom mounting clamp. Anyone got one out there? Got all the rest of the parts. Thanks

whiskeyriver
10-11-2014, 11:44 PM
Just read entire post. Hats off to you sir, great job!

edwin
10-14-2014, 10:45 AM
Fantastic job, Wingnut!

gsxrjtt
10-14-2014, 02:30 PM
Do you plan on close loop cooling that thing ???

Wingnut
10-15-2014, 11:53 AM
Do you plan on close loop cooling that thing ???

Its already closed loop cooling. A must for saltwater ops. Thanks

Wingnut
10-15-2014, 11:56 AM
Before installation.

scottpiper27
10-16-2014, 01:49 AM
SO AWESOME! You are very inspiring. Cant wait to fix mine up this winter. Thanks for all the pics!

Wingnut
10-19-2014, 09:35 AM
Snipe- these are the two pictures that get close to the center dash pod mounts. There are 4 Snap clips one located above and below both speedos. If you grab the speedos by the bezel ring (hopefully they don't pull off) you can gently pull it towards you to get the snaps to release. Sorry for the crotch shot. The other panels all have small 1/4 screws in the four corners- ( a pain).

Wingnut
10-19-2014, 09:37 AM
they are the silvers pieces you can see slightly. Ill look to take another pic shortly.