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View Full Version : Fogging an L-18 for winterization???


prostar205
10-12-2005, 07:53 PM
I've fogged the cylinders of my '88 PS190 and '95 PS205, carb and TBI, respectively.

How does one go about fogging the cylinders in a MPI application? I assume you simply remove the air cleaner from the front of the engine and start spraying fogging oil. Anyone with experience in this area, please comment.

Thanks.

André
10-12-2005, 08:37 PM
Don't know for sure but hold on tight to that little red straw when fogging.
I remember reading something last year about someone's straw getting sucked in the TBI engine intake i think...

OhioX14
10-12-2005, 11:29 PM
My last boat was a Nautique with a PCM GT40 w/ MPI. When you pulled the flame arrestor there was a small approx. 1/4" hole in the air intake butterfly. All you had to do was stick that little red tube through the whole and squirt. I'm not sure what the MCX has in the new MC as the dealer is handling the first winterization as part of the purchase deal.

With that said, I only fogged the GT40 once as the dealer instructed me not to. He said PCM did not recommend it on fuel injected engine as there are too many seals that do not react well to fogging oil and for the relatively short layup (3 - 6 mths) if wasn't necessary. Also, that oil has to end up somewhere and that usually is on the oil pan. So if you're the average owner who changes the oil during winterization and then runs that same oil in the spring you are now running on oil laced with fogging oil.

It made sense to me so I haven't fogged in 6 years and have not had any problems. Not sure what Indmar recommends.

Workin' 4 Toys
10-12-2005, 11:41 PM
I've fogged the cylinders of my '88 PS190 and '95 PS205, carb and TBI, respectively.

How does one go about fogging the cylinders in a MPI application? I assume you simply remove the air cleaner from the front of the engine and start spraying fogging oil. Anyone with experience in this area, please comment.

Thanks.
Right, but it shouldn't die out on its own like the carb'd would.

vogelm1
10-13-2005, 10:40 AM
I've got an MCX with MPI, and talked to my dealer regarding this. It pretty much was parallel with what owners manual said...remove flame arrestor and run boat at a fast idle (use the throttle lock-out) - this will open the butterfly on the intake just enough to shoot the fogging oil in. Spray in for a good 15-20 seconds or until you see white smoke coming from exhaust. The boat should continue to run during the fogging. Shut 'er down and your golden. Some guys will even remove the spark plugs and give a second or two shot in there as well, but not sure if that is necessary since that is where the fogging oil should end up in the first place when shooting through MPI system.

I did mine last week, with the trailer backed in the water - worked great!

And Andre' is correct!! Be sure the little red straw doesn't fly off and go directly into your intake!! I've heard of them getting "sent" into spark plug holes too and you can imagine how expensive that would be to get them out...unless you're luck enough to fish them out somehow. Have fun!

Tenderfoot
10-27-2005, 01:32 PM
Had the straw sucked in the manifold. After the "Oh S___" expression, I actually pulled the intake manifold to look for it and it was long gone. Checked the spark plugs and they were clean. Never had a problem in the 300 hours put on after that. I guess it comes down to physics. Plastic vs steel and flame, no contest. But I did get smarter and just ditch the tube. The spray comes out fine enough from the nozzle.

Jaysonsmith
10-31-2005, 06:11 PM
I've fogged the cylinders of my '88 PS190 and '95 PS205, carb and TBI, respectively.

How does one go about fogging the cylinders in a MPI application? I assume you simply remove the air cleaner from the front of the engine and start spraying fogging oil. Anyone with experience in this area, please comment.

Thanks.

Just winterized my 98 prostar 205 with the LT-1 and all I do is pull off all the plug wires, pull the plugs and shoot it straight into the cylinders, turn it over just a nudge and then shoot 'em all again and puth the plugs back in. Seems to work just fine. Also, I reccomend you change the oil in the Spring. What's the point of changing the oil and then just letting it sit there and gunk up and get moist & such.

east tx skier
10-31-2005, 06:50 PM
I believe the idea of changing it in the fall is so you don't have all of the old oil sitting in there during the layup. Ideally, you'd change it at the end of the seasona and at the beginning I suppose.

Just read the other thread. I went back to my original source on the no antifreeze in the LT1 (unless it's closed cooling). Wasn't an explanation given in the original thread. Source was JimN.

phecksel
11-01-2005, 01:04 PM
Just winterized my 98 prostar 205 with the LT-1 and all I do is pull off all the plug wires, pull the plugs and shoot it straight into the cylinders, turn it over just a nudge and then shoot 'em all again and puth the plugs back in. Seems to work just fine. Also, I reccomend you change the oil in the Spring. What's the point of changing the oil and then just letting it sit there and gunk up and get moist & such.
Because the oil contains bearing eating acids. Always remove that old oil before layup.

etakk7
09-18-2007, 04:48 PM
also if there is water in the oil - you want to clear that out