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View Full Version : Installing Flush Pro on Xstar with Indmar Motor


Mark
07-20-2013, 07:24 AM
Your help please. I want to install a flush pro kit. I would think it needs to be in-line before the oil cooler, but there is not enough space. The only alternative is in-line between the oil cooler and the raw water pump, but I think this could create a problem as I would not be cooling the entire system. Any advice as I am miles from any mechanics.
Thanks

bigmac
07-20-2013, 08:25 AM
I've always been leery of the Perko Flush Pros. Too many reports of breakage (they're plastic), or FOD interfering or getting hung up on the one-way valve.

For as few times as I need to run the engine in the driveway, I'd rather hook up with an admittedly more cumbersome direct hose connection.

http://mccollister.info/intakefitting1.jpg

http://mccollister.info/intakefitting2.jpg



If I felt it necessary to flush frequently, such as in salt water, I'd make something like this out of brass to enhance the convenience.

http://mccollister.info/valvecock.jpg http://mccollister.info/valvecock2.jpg

Mark
07-20-2013, 12:36 PM
Thanks for the info. My problem is when using the boat in salt water during holidays. The boat remains in the water for three weeks and I feel it crucial to flush every time I dock at my jetty. The flush pro is a simple and easy solution and I unfortunately have already purchased one.

Zazzy
07-24-2013, 10:36 AM
Your help please. I want to install a flush pro kit. I would think it needs to be in-line before the oil cooler, but there is not enough space. The only alternative is in-line between the oil cooler and the raw water pump, but I think this could create a problem as I would not be cooling the entire system. Any advice as I am miles from any mechanics.
Thanks
Relocate the heat exchanger (the oil cooler) or loop/extend the hose length between the raw water intake/strainer and the heat exchanger. Here's a couple pictures that might help (not mine):

Mark
07-28-2013, 06:37 AM
Zazzy,

Thanks for the photo's. My configuration is very different. I have decided to either make up a PVC or stainless fitting and I will post a photo on this thread when done.

I have figured out though that it is crucial to install the flush pro as close to the seacock as possible. Under no circumstances after the oil cooler.

Mark
09-06-2014, 01:51 AM
I was warned that the flush pro would break. It did and this is how I fixed it. I know this is massively over done, but it works. I cut two circular ss rings, big washers really and passed four threaded bars through the ends. Tightened the four bolts and reinstalled. Not the best picture but it gives an idea

mikeg205
09-06-2014, 09:48 AM
It's an MC nothing can be over engineered ;)

Topp dawg
09-06-2014, 10:43 AM
My boat came with an older model flush pro and it broke. So I replaced it with a new model and it is designed with reinforce brackets around it. So far it hasn't broken and it looks like a tank.

Jeff d
09-06-2014, 11:50 AM
If concerned about the durability of the plastic Perko kit you can do what this guy did:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=51590

MattsCraft
09-08-2014, 08:49 AM
The new version of the flush pro will not crack, at least I have had 2 with no issues, one for 4 years, the second on is on it's 2nd season. (2 different boats)

Just make sure when you hook it up to the hose, turn on your water pressure low, start engine then crank up to full pressure.

No issue with enough water supply to warm oil for winterization or adding anti-freeze.

ariutta
09-08-2014, 09:39 AM
Quick question about the flush pro. I have had one for 2 or 3 seasons, and seems to work really well for me. I winterized my boat yesterday. I have relatively wimpy water pressure from a well, but I always get good return from the exhaust. Usually, I always turn the hose off soon after I shut the engine off. Yesterday I shut the engine off and left the hose ON for prob 3-5 minutes before I realized to shut if off. I remembered it was still on because there was small amt of water leaking from the impeller housing. I had a sudden scare that leaving the hose on could cause the block to fill up with water and overflow into the exhaust and into the exhaust valves into the cylinder. I know I have heard something about this somewhere--very well could have been with one of my other water toys or could have been entirely conjured up in a dream for all I know. I ran the boat after I changed the oil again and it ran just like usual. Am I just being paranoid? Thanks!