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View Full Version : 2001 XStar no gauge power, no engine light, boat wont start


uski
07-18-2013, 02:39 PM
Hi Everyone,

I have a 2001 XStar with the standard engine. When I turn the key to the start position, I only get ~1.3 volts coming out on the out pin of the ignition switch, although I get 12.5 as an input to the ignition switch. The check engine light and the gauges do not light up or go through the startup clicking. I have a new battery. I have cleaned all the connections in between the battery and the starter that I can find. I get 12 volts at the main engine breaker and the starter. I get 12 volts into one of the inputs on the ignition relay. The other ignition relay input that comes from the fuse block has a 0 volt reading no matter the key position. Blower and all other accessories work. The radio works when the key is on accessory but not in the start position. Any clue what I should be testing next?

Thanks!

uski
07-18-2013, 02:51 PM
Also... I already replaced the ignition switch and the ignition breaker under the dash. The inline fuse at the switch is fine.

clrussell
07-18-2013, 03:28 PM
Have you checked the kill switch yet? It could cause your symptoms. But they part where you have 1.3v as an output on the ignition gets me

uski
07-18-2013, 03:29 PM
Yes, I checked the lanyard. thanks!

clrussell
07-18-2013, 03:55 PM
What does the back of your ignition switch look like? Multiple wires or just a couple? (I've never seen one) but can you take the wires from the battery side and hook em to the output side and get everything working sounds like you have a bad connection at the switch.

Does the mmdc? (Idk if that's right) but the gauge computer control the ignition and start? I've seen a bunch of those bad since I've been around here

uski
07-18-2013, 04:02 PM
The back of the ignition switch has two wires connected to a couple of the out pins. Sad to say, I already put in a new MDC box and that did not fix the issue. When the electrical issues started happening, I would turn the key and not get power, but after a couple tries it would always come back on. As it got more frequent, then the engine would not start and I would just hear a click at the solenoid (I also replaced the starter). I am not sure if the MDC controls ignition, but I have a new one in the boat.

clrussell
07-18-2013, 05:30 PM
Can you by pass the ignition switch and it turn the gauges on? Wires at connectors for switch crimped good and not broken?

Rossterman
07-18-2013, 05:36 PM
Sounds like a bad ground somewhere. Did you go over all connections on the grounding bar under the dash? Also cable connection from bar to battery, also ground to engine. May want to do the same on the positive lug under the dash as well.

uski
07-18-2013, 06:01 PM
Yes, I cleaned the ground bar, the wires, and the positive connections under the dash. When I test the positive point under the dash with the ground bar I get 12.5 volts. I have also cleaned every ground and positive connection I could find on the engine. I get 12.5 volts to the main engine breaker and the starter.

I will try to bypass the starter.

Thank You!

uski
07-18-2013, 07:09 PM
Nope, jumping the battery wire and ignition wire at the ignition switch do not turn the engine light or gauges on.

Interestingly enough, when I was done playing around with the ignition switch, the light came on the next time I turned the key while the dash was apart. I could reliably turn it on and off until I put the dash back together. I even tested the lanyard and a few other things I was wondering about and the power was reliable. So, maybe there is a broken wire or something in the harness. This is maddening!!

clrussell
07-18-2013, 08:31 PM
Might load test the wires, like the wire from the battery for example, take that wire off of the ignition and hook a old headlamp to it then ground the other wire off the light. And if the light is bright then that wire is good, you can do it with other wires but its more complicated. While load testing the wire go as far down it as you can pulling on the wire gently. If light goes off then you found your problem

uski
07-19-2013, 03:54 PM
I seem to have a short someplace else that is causing overall problems. I went through the entire ignition following all of the purple wires. I was actually losing most of the volts between the ignition relay and ignition coil.

One interesting thing, if I only hook up the main battery terminals, not the smaller blower, lights, etc., the gauges turn on as normal when the key is put in start. The engine will not start though. If I try to start it, everything cuts off. If I hook the smaller battery cables up to the battery, the gauges never come on, and I drop voltage between the ignition coil and relay.

BTW, I am pretty sure they would be able to sell these boats for half the money if they didn't use so much electrical tape...

renrio
07-19-2017, 11:00 PM
I seem to have a short someplace else that is causing overall problems. I went through the entire ignition following all of the purple wires. I was actually losing most of the volts between the ignition relay and ignition coil.

One interesting thing, if I only hook up the main battery terminals, not the smaller blower, lights, etc., the gauges turn on as normal when the key is put in start. The engine will not start though. If I try to start it, everything cuts off. If I hook the smaller battery cables up to the battery, the gauges never come on, and I drop voltage between the ignition coil and relay.

BTW, I am pretty sure they would be able to sell these boats for half the money if they didn't use so much electrical tape...


Hi uski, Did you ever figure this out? I'm having a very similar issue with my Xstar except my engine light is on when I turn the key.

gwozhog
07-19-2017, 11:53 PM
Check your starter relay. Some boats have two of them. One by the ecm and the other by the starter.

Jleggeri
07-20-2017, 08:31 AM
I am having the exact same problem with me 2004 X30. I just joined the form to try and find a solution. does any one have a schematic for the ignition circuit

Cumminscj
07-20-2017, 10:45 PM
Holy dead thread revival. Here is the diagram you requested. Main relay provides power to the ECM, ignition(distributor and coil), and the fuel relay. If you have power loss after the relay check the junction where the wires are soldered together. But first diagnose the relay

renrio
07-20-2017, 11:42 PM
Is one of these the main relay?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35885230602

Cumminscj
07-21-2017, 12:38 AM
Is one of these the main relay?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35885230602

For some reason your images are not showing up

I plugged the link in and got it to show. Yes one of those three relays is the main

renrio
07-21-2017, 01:43 AM
For some reason your images are not showing up

I plugged the link in and got it to show. Yes one of those three relays is the main


Only one of the three relays had a purple wire going to it so is it safe to guess that's the main relay?

BoardMeeting
07-21-2017, 01:56 AM
It is the auto-circuit breaker located on the top front of the engine. May be mounted upside down, or may also have a red push-button. It's bad. Nearly guaranteed. I've had it go bad on several boats and it exhibits the exact same scenario you guys are having. Test its continuity or jumper across temporarily-you will be back on the lake in no time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cumminscj
07-21-2017, 11:02 AM
Only one of the three relays had a purple wire going to it so is it safe to guess that's the main relay?

Yes, you got it.

curver900
07-21-2017, 12:44 PM
I had this same issue.. exactly... it was solved by getting the front seat out and going under the dash and tracing wires to low and behold a wire couple had become loose.. it started then it wouldn't then it would then stop then all weird... follow the red wire from the ignition switch or white red I don't recall and/or look for (from what I recall) a 10 pin white connector.. it has a red set of wires that run the boat... it has some clips to hold it together that don't hold it together.. mine is now ziptied... I will look up my old thread...

renrio
07-21-2017, 06:45 PM
It is the auto-circuit breaker located on the top front of the engine. May be mounted upside down, or may also have a red push-button. It's bad. Nearly guaranteed. I've had it go bad on several boats and it exhibits the exact same scenario you guys are having. Test its continuity or jumper across temporarily-you will be back on the lake in no time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you talking about this?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35247635473/

renrio
07-23-2017, 04:50 PM
My no gauge issue turned out to be the connector coming out of the Medallion MDC 1600. I wiggled it around and the gauges started working as expected.

My no spark issue turned out to be the ICM.

I diagnosed the no spark issue from all of your advice and this websites step by step: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4....ed-icm-tests-1

I was able to test all the components and figure out that the faulty part was the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The ignition coil wasn't receiving a Switching Signal. Test 7 from that website determined this.


The Vortec Predator 5.7L 310HP engine uses the same parts as a 1995 Chevy Tahoe 5.7L.

I went to AutoZone and got the ICM for a 1995 Chevy Tahoe 5.7L and installed it and the engine fired right up.

Thank you everyone!!!