View Full Version : OEM 10" Clarion Sub in box???????
prostar205
10-10-2005, 02:27 PM
Has anyone built a sub enclosure or box for the stock Clarion 10" sub that MC put in the 2001 thru 2003 X-series boats? One of my winter projects is to upgrade the stereo. I just bought a Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP head unit based on Diesel209s recommendations. My plans include moving the 10" sub out from under the dash area and relocating it to the passenger side storage compartment under the glovebox of my '02 X30.
Questions:
1) should I stay with the Clarion unit or can it (I think I know the answer to this one but am curious about other people's experiences/opinions)?
2) should the box be ported or fully sealed?
3) can I purchase a pre-fabricated box off ebay that is made for a 10" sub?
Thanks for the help.
Cary K.
10-10-2005, 02:36 PM
I built one, and it sounded much better than it did running free-air, but it still sucked. Mine is in the shop right now getting a custom kick panel and sealed box with a JL Audio 10W3. I also already have a custom ported box under the passengert seat.
For any sub, you just have to take the kick panel off, and utilize every inch of space, crazy angled box, etc... We moved my heater core and made templates of the space we had to work with. We got enough, and even had room to make a very custom heater vent opening that will be incorporated into the kick panel, and not have to use the standard round vent. I will post pics (hopefully later this week) of the finished install.
RobertT
10-10-2005, 02:37 PM
I went up to Walmart and bought a carpeted enclosure for $25.00. I stuck a nice Polk sub in it, mounted an amp to the box, and threw it behind the observers seat.
The intent was to see how well it worked....its perfect. I had planned on taking everything out and custom making a box, but the current situation is perfect. The only thing I did was cut some 1" pvc spacers to go under the box to allow some airflow on the carpet.
Point is that rather than taking the stock sub out, why not just add another????
rektek
10-10-2005, 02:50 PM
If you're going to the effort of re-locating the sub, dump the clarion stuff, Kicker, Polk momo, JL audio are just a few good names, I'm running a Polk Momo mm12 behind the passenger seat under the bow area, the mm12 burnt the voice coil and polk sent me a mm2124 replacement at no cost, no problems with it so far.
Q-logic makes some very nice enclosures as well,
Cary K.
10-10-2005, 02:51 PM
I tried that, but you are still getting crappy sound out of the original. Adding a second sub does nothing but falsely mask the poor quality. Kind of like buying a louder stereo to fix a bad muffler ;)
BigBarney
10-10-2005, 03:03 PM
By what I have read, it seems that I could buy an enclosed sub, unhook the output going to to the stock sub, connect that output to the new sub, and place it underneath the observer's seat. My sub's amp is mounted on the wall underneath the observer's seat, so I wouldn't have to run wires very far.
Has anyone built a sub enclosure or box for the stock Clarion 10" sub that MC put in the 2001 thru 2003 X-series boats? One of my winter projects is to upgrade the stereo. I just bought a Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP head unit based on Diesel209s recommendations. My plans include moving the 10" sub out from under the dash area and relocating it to the passenger side storage compartment under the glovebox of my '02 X30.
Questions:
1) should I stay with the Clarion unit or can it (I think I know the answer to this one but am curious about other people's experiences/opinions)?
2) should the box be ported or fully sealed?
3) can I purchase a pre-fabricated box off ebay that is made for a 10" sub?
Thanks for the help.
I was told by mymc(I think) that the factory JL is NOT to be enclosed. I think the answer is no, because you may actually damage it by enclosing a free air woofer whilst trying to get that good bass hit.
prostar205
10-10-2005, 03:18 PM
The JL Audio web site does state their 10" sub (p/n M10IB5-4) is designed for infinite baffle use. However, they also state a minimun sealed enclosure volume of 1.25 cu. ft. and maximum sealed enclosure volume of 2.0 cu. ft. is acceptable.
Has anyone used the JL Audio Marine Sub in a sealed enclosure???
According to JL their marine sub is NOT to be installed in an enclosure. As a matter of fact the first thing they did when working on the '06 version of Maeghan's JL Audio X-Star was to remove the "splash shield" from behind the sub. When I asked why I was told that it would detract from the output of the speaker and was unnecessary.
mitch
10-11-2005, 09:51 AM
According to JL their marine sub is NOT to be installed in an enclosure. As a matter of fact the first thing they did when working on the '06 version of Maeghan's JL Audio X-Star was to remove the "splash shield" from behind the sub. When I asked why I was told that it would detract from the output of the speaker and was unnecessary.
Is this the one?-->http://marine.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?prod_id=370
If so, it references a sealed enclosure? Would like to upgrade my Clarion 10" located in kick panel , but not much room back there. Thanks!
Is this the one?-->http://marine.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?prod_id=370
If so, it references a sealed enclosure? Would like to upgrade my Clarion 10" located in kick panel , but not much room back there. Thanks!
I dont know. It looks like the one in my boat but who knows if it's the same part number
contact mymc directly, he not only knows them but he has them for sale
I have a phone call into the JL Audio engineering department. I'll post the answer I as soon as they call me back.
djhuff
10-11-2005, 02:28 PM
I build a custom enclosure to go behind my kick panel. It is actually mated to the box to the original hole for the sub. Don't know how it sounds with a Clarion sub in it, but I put an Orion 10" DVC in there as well as a second Orion behind the observer seat. the one behind the observer seat really doesn't do very much when compared with teh one at the kick panel. Using the factory amp still sounds pretty good, I just added a capacitor.
JL just called and is reviewing the speaker spec and site information. They will get back to me with an answer shortly.
What I have been told so far is that all speakers are built to be in some type of enclosure. However an infinite baffel design would utilize an enclosure so large as to preclude its use in most applications, hence it is mounted "free air" in the kick panel or under a seat which is providing a type of enclosure of suffcient size.
prostar205
10-12-2005, 02:36 PM
MYMC -
I will be waiting to hear their answer. I just got my Pioneer Premier head unit and want to dig into my stereo upgrade. The easiest and least expensive thing to do for the sub would be to simply replace the Clarion unit with the JL version. However, my experiences with subs are in enclosures and they sound great. I am just a little curious how well a "free space" sub sounds. I know my Clarion is absolutely non-existant.
No problem as soon as I have an answer I'll pass it along. When I spoke to them earlier they were telling me 2.25cu/ft as a minimum. I asked about the web info (at 1cu/ft minimum) and it was decided that more digging was needed. I'll let you know soon.
Here is what I was told:
All speakers need some type of enclosure to generate pressure and separate the front wave from the back. In an "infinite baffle" design such as our boats the bilge or storage area is being used to separate the waves. With a driver like the 10IB5 which is designed for this type application it can operate very efficiently and with less power for a given output.
In a sealed enclosure the speaker (any) needs more power and becomes less efficient (less output at the same given input wattage)...why then build a sealed enclosure? Well I asked the same question. The answer lies in the application. Take your listening room at home; it is more than kind of tough to make an infinite baffle design work in this application.
The bottom line per JL Audio is this; the 10IB5 will work in an enclosure as small as 1.25cu/ft but you will be significantly reducing the efficiency of the speaker and thus require more power. If you must put it in a sealed enclosure the optimal size is 2.0cu/ft. If you choose to use a ported box the size needs to be 4.0cu/ft. Keep in mind it was not designed with this type of install in mind, the 10IB5 was designed to be an infinite baffle speaker and as such is extremely efficient in these types of installs and is truly what it is made for.
Hope this helps to clear the air...
prostar205
10-12-2005, 04:50 PM
Thanks Mike for the update.
If I go and do a simple replacement of the Clarion with the JL Audion 10IB5, would the JL sub fit in the same hole that was created by the Clarion?
Also, my plans included driving the JL sub with a JL Audio 500/1 Class D amp. Is that going to work?
Lastly, I plan on using the JL e6450M, 6-channel amp to run the 4 tower speakers and 4 interior speakers. What are your thoughts on this applications.
My speakers are the standard Clarion 6.5" seperates (CM1632s). I have 4 pairs of these.
Thanks for the help.
The 10IB5 will drop in the hole with no fitment issues and the 500/1 is an excellent choice for the amplifier.
If you already have the e6450 then I would use it. My only reservation is the ohm load on the channels that will be driving two speakers instead of one. MC does this for the tower (stock) and everything seems fine although at high volume levels it can lead to the amp shutting down in "heat protect mode". A more optimal (and expensive) configuration would be to use two e4300s or two 300/4 (slash series). The clarions need lots of power and take it well...until the glue releases from the speaker frame (about a year two tops).
Lastly, make sure and use good quality power and ground cables to wire all of this. You need a minimum 4awg wire for this stuff along with some serious fuses (60amp). MasterCraft had some issues early on with this (20amp fuses and 16awg power and ground leads) so make sure you install the right stuff. Also if you are feeling really ambitious run all new speaker wire (8awg) and you’ll get everything your new system has to offer.
Enjoy :guitar:
prostar205
10-14-2005, 03:43 PM
MYMC -
When you refer to the e4300 amp, are you talking about the mobile (car) version or the marine version (e4300M). Is there any reason to go with the marine version. I assume they are more expensive becuase of the added coating on the CCAs and components.
Use the automotive e4300. The "M" is more expensive; however, the justification for the increased cost is in the marketing and not the content.
craig3972
10-24-2005, 02:52 PM
i have two 12" subs in my 2000 x-star. you have to have enclosures if you want it to really thump. The other item to consider before going out and spending big money on a system is power consumption vs battery life. If you are sitting in your boat for hours with the stereo on and the motor off, a high powered system will suck the battery dry in about two hours. A cheapy sub and amp properly enclosed will provide high output and run all day without leaving you stranded.
The last item i would add is, make sure you enclosure is in good solid contact with the chassis of the boat, this will generate more and deeper bass than if it is just sitting unattached in the boat.