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svxwilson
07-10-2013, 11:42 PM
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/svxwilson/IMAG0540_zpsff7bfa17.jpg
Ok hope that worked. I have found the location of one of my oil problems. It is leaking from the bottom of the large part attached to the long block. Is this engine or tranny fluid? I have recently swapped the 20/20 oil in the tranny to dexron-3 I flushed it 3 times so if this was tranny I would expect it to be somewhat red in color. I do not see red in the oil in the pictures http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/svxwilson/IMAG0541_zps3363f927.jpg

svxwilson
07-10-2013, 11:49 PM
This was 5 hrs of accumulation. Do I just need to tighten those bolts at the bottom?

svxwilson
07-10-2013, 11:52 PM
Is that what you call a bell housing? Forgive my ignorance. Does this have a gasket?

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
07-11-2013, 12:05 AM
Definitely oil, Probably just need to tighten up the oil pan bolts. If it doesn't stop leaking a oil pan gasket is needed and maybe a rear main crankshaft seal. There is no gasket where the engine and bell housing meets. Seems like alot but it could be just residual oil from the engine change.
Can you locate any oil residue on the engine or parts?

svxwilson
07-11-2013, 12:23 AM
I have been on a bilge cleaning spree the last few weeks because I did have so much extra oil in the bottom. I did the cleaning with the intention of being able to find the leak. I wiped the bottom of the engine down so I would be able to find the leak. The very bottom of where the black part of the longblock meet up with whatever the silver part is is where oil had Accumulated again after being squeaky clean only 5 hrs prior.

svxwilson
07-11-2013, 12:26 AM
It must be dripping and then accumulating 5-6" down right below the oil pan.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
07-11-2013, 12:36 AM
If its coming out between where the oil pan and transmission meet, I would suspect a rear main seal, however it still could be the very rear of the oil pan. Tighten the oil pan bolts first. If still leaking it's most likely the rear main and the transmission must be pulled.

FrankSchwab
07-11-2013, 12:58 AM
the black part of the longblock meet up with whatever the silver part

Silver Part = Bell Housing and Transmission on your boat. The Bell Housing is basically a spacer between the engine and transmission, and contains the Flex Plate on your boat, or a flywheel and a clutch on a manual transmission car, or a torque converter on an automatic transmission car.
Black part = Engine.

svxwilson
07-11-2013, 01:10 AM
Thank you for that clarification. That is what I thought it was but was not sure.

svxwilson
07-12-2013, 04:16 PM
If its coming out between where the oil pan and transmission meet, I would suspect a rear main seal, however it still could be the very rear of the oil pan. Tighten the oil pan bolts first. If still leaking it's most likely the rear main and the transmission must be pulled.

I tightened the 2 bolts that you can see in the picture on the bell housing and I did not have a pool of oil this morning. I warmed her up in the driveway before work and am going to check it again when I get home for lunch. I only had a small 1/2 in wrench to Tighten. Couldn't find the socket set. I will recheck my bolt tension on the bellhousing and the oil pan when I find the socket set after work.

svxwilson
07-12-2013, 04:17 PM
The bottom bolts were both a half turn loose with my 6" wrench.

svxwilson
07-13-2013, 03:12 PM
Definitely oil, Probably just need to tighten up the oil pan bolts. If it doesn't stop leaking a oil pan gasket is needed and maybe a rear main crankshaft seal. There is no gasket where the engine and bell housing meets. Seems like alot but it could be just residual oil from the engine change.
Can you locate any oil residue on the engine or parts?

Here are some more pics getting closer to the actual leak (or so it seems). I tightened all the bolts that I could get to on the oil pan. The 2 bolts on the bottom of the bell housing don't ever get tight, not sure what to think about that.... Going to do a half day at a local lake today or tomorrow see how that goes. I have a feeling the tightening is not going to be a end to the leak. Runs great though. Just gotta bring some extra oil.

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/svxwilson/IMAG0545_zps12bdb0d5.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/svxwilson/media/IMAG0545_zps12bdb0d5.jpg.html)

svxwilson
07-13-2013, 03:15 PM
More...
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/svxwilson/IMAG0563_zpsa543d997.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/svxwilson/media/IMAG0563_zpsa543d997.jpg.html)
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/svxwilson/IMAG0547_zps2ccdb556.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/svxwilson/media/IMAG0547_zps2ccdb556.jpg.html)
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/svxwilson/IMAG0564_zps907b5110.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/svxwilson/media/IMAG0564_zps907b5110.jpg.html)
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/svxwilson/IMAG0565_zpsa8b3c899.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/svxwilson/media/IMAG0565_zpsa8b3c899.jpg.html)

svxwilson
07-13-2013, 03:16 PM
More...
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/svxwilson/IMAG0549_zpsdb40207e.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/svxwilson/media/IMAG0549_zpsdb40207e.jpg.html)

svxwilson
07-13-2013, 03:36 PM
I took the 2 bolts out that would not tighten here is what I found.... http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/svxwilson/IMAG0567_zps3411cfa7.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/svxwilson/media/IMAG0567_zps3411cfa7.jpg.html)
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/svxwilson/IMAG0568_zps010831a9.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/svxwilson/media/IMAG0568_zps010831a9.jpg.html)
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/svxwilson/IMAG0569_zpsd338663a.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/svxwilson/media/IMAG0569_zpsd338663a.jpg.html)

svxwilson
07-13-2013, 03:38 PM
The holes are threaded all the way through I am going to go get some longer bolts. These only make it half way into there home. And either I over tightened them or it was done in the past....

Table Rocker
07-13-2013, 03:58 PM
Those broken bits look to be what's left of a helicoil thread repair from that blocks past.

Actually, it looks like those bolts go into the bell housing.

mikeg205
07-13-2013, 04:13 PM
I am still in J.Mcreight's camp... I am betting rear main seal.... I would live with it until season over then change it. Then you can really dig in...

svxwilson
07-13-2013, 07:21 PM
I am loosing 2+ quarts on a 8 hr engine day. It is a reman with 25 hrs on it. It does have a 1 year parts and labor warranty. 7 yr just parts. Or 500 hrs whatever comes first.
So frustrated!!:mad:
Do you think if I just keep dumping oil down her throat all day I would be ok using it for short trips? As soon as my mechanic has time I will be dropping it off and calling the engine builders. :rant::rant:

mikeg205
07-13-2013, 07:41 PM
I am loosing 2+ quarts on a 8 hr engine day. It is a reman with 25 hrs on it. It does have a 1 year parts and labor warranty. 7 yr just parts. Or 500 hrs whatever comes first.
So frustrated!!:mad:
Do you think if I just keep dumping oil down her throat all day I would be ok using it for short trips? As soon as my mechanic has time I will be dropping it off and calling the engine builders. :rant::rant:

Stop every hour and check oil... until you can get it fixed.. I would be as P.O'd as you... the above pictures are unacceptable for a reman...

svxwilson
07-13-2013, 09:10 PM
Stop every hour and check oil... until you can get it fixed.. I would be as P.O'd as you... the above pictures are unacceptable for a reman...

If they don't make it right I am going to flame the hell out of them on every boat forum and site I can think of. This is not the only problem. It cost me an extra $500 in labor because they couldn't tell us the correct firing order. My mechanic had to figure that out and it cost me the labor to do it.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
07-13-2013, 09:58 PM
If they don't make it right I am going to flame the hell out of them on every boat forum and site I can think of. This is not the only problem. It cost me an extra $500 in labor because they couldn't tell us the correct firing order. My mechanic had to figure that out and it cost me the labor to do it.

The 2 bottom bell housing bolts will not cause a leak nor will they stop the leak.

Definitely need to contact the engine manufacture and get that leak taken care of under their warranty.

A side note on warranty work, if you burn the motor up because of the oil leak, they will not warranty the repairs because they will claim you neglected it knowing there was a leak, which in their defense is valid.

I would keep an eagle eye on the oil level until the oil leak gets resolved.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
07-13-2013, 10:06 PM
You better get your warranty registered...

U S MARINE ENGINE
8504 S. 228TH Street Kent, WA 98031 253-852-3263
www.usengine@comcast.net

*******TIGHTEN INTAKE MANIFOLDS 7 TIMES or pistons will detonate*******
WARRANTY: Most marine engines built by US MARINE ENGINE come with our 7
year 500 hour warranty, limits and exclusions are listed below Please review them. We
recommend for long life to replace your raw water pump, all tune up parts, belts and
hoses. Change your oil every 60 hours or once each year to keep your warranty effective.
To receive your 7-year warranty you must register your warranty by mailing a copy to
our factory within 45 days of purchase date & first oil change 1 to 8 hours.
Non-registered warranty will only have a 6-month warranty.
Marine engines: 7 years or 500 hours against defects in material and workmanship.
After 1 year there is no coverage for labor costs or shipping. You can purchase more
shipping and labor coverage for an additional 100.00 for each added year up to 6 years.
Your warranty coverage is for the engine only. Engine installation warranty on engine
installed by us engines is 1 year this does not exclude our listed engine warranty. All
installs by our company must be returned to us for all repairs.
Warranty process: Call or email usengine@comcact.net so we may determine what is
wrong and how to further proceed. Damaged engine or parts must be returned for
warranty claims. We will need your oil change records. There will be no warranty
coverage unless you contact us first for authorization and all parts returned.
Labor coverage: Labor for repair shops is limited to $55.00 per hour based on factory
time or reasonable time as agreed to before any repairs begin. All defective parts must be
returned for credit or payment. Labor only covers our engine, no diagnostic time or other
repairs.
We do not cover. Repairs that were not pre authorized. Damages caused from
overheating, freeze cracking, operating with low or with old oil, piston damages,
diagnosing time, damages caused in shipping, customers or installers.

svxwilson
07-14-2013, 11:44 AM
I have another 2 weeks till the 45 day mark. But I had it filled out and ready to send next day air on Monday. The warranty sheet I got with the engine is similar to what you posted but not identical. Anyway. Hope they fix their mistakes. I am willing to bet they didn't use the correct rear main seal, keeping in mind they didn't know the firing order to their own engine, I am concerned that they didnt used the reverse rotation gasket. I guess it takes a different gasket then standard rotation.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
07-14-2013, 03:23 PM
I have another 2 weeks till the 45 day mark. But I had it filled out and ready to send next day air on Monday. The warranty sheet I got with the engine is similar to what you posted but not identical. Anyway. Hope they fix their mistakes. I am willing to bet they didn't use the correct rear main seal, keeping in mind they didn't know the firing order to their own engine, I am concerned that they didnt used the reverse rotation gasket. I guess it takes a different gasket then standard rotation.

Parts break even "new" parts. My guess is they did not use a new rear main seal when they put this engine together.

I am willing to bet there is not a difference in gaskets for a std rotation and reverse rotation.

svxwilson
07-14-2013, 05:16 PM
"If your leak is coming from inside the bellhousing (which it looks like from the photos) there is more that could be leaking than just the rear main seal.

You have
A) the seal
B) 3 pipe plugs in different oil passages
C) A freeze plug used to block off the back of the camshaft rear bearing

These are all easy to see if you have the flywheel off.

Now speaking of seals, since you have a reverse rotating engine, it takes a specific seal because of that. If a seal for a normal rotation engine is used it will leak. Based on your engine’s age(1991) and the fact that you probably reused your original oil pan it should be a one piece seal but like I said it needs to be for a reverse rotating engine. They’re not terribly common but they are terribly expensive (around 90 bucks for the one seal). Older 351’s before about 1987 had a 2 piece seal with a different crank that had hash marks machined into it to direct oil away from the seal. The crank was different between a reverse rotating engine and a normal one because of this. (the hash marks went in opposite directions. Like I said earlier you probably have the newer style which has the same crank regardless of rotation and the seals are different."

Some help I got from another reliable source I have helping me. I am hanging the keys on this one till it can be fixed. I don't want to chance having a larger problem due to oil loss. To many questions, gunna go shoot my AR's I have been neglecting trying to get this boat going. I have a brand new custom built 6.5 Grendel I need to play with.

svxwilson
07-14-2013, 05:18 PM
I fully appreciate everyone's time, help, knowledge, and input. I would be soooooooo lost without everyone's help.
Thank you all!

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
07-14-2013, 06:52 PM
I fully appreciate everyone's time, help, knowledge, and input. I would be soooooooo lost without everyone's help.
Thank you all!

I stand corrected, it appears RH rotation does use a different seal.

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=eBasicPower&Product_Code=VICJV569

svxwilson
07-16-2013, 02:39 AM
I talked with engine builders and have begun their warranty process by sending them a email on the issues. They informed me they know it took a different rear main due to rotation And that is what it got. I will post the reply from them. It will be interesting to figure out the results. I hope they do the right thing. I would love to give them a props post.

svxwilson
07-31-2013, 06:50 PM
It was the rear main seal. They used the standard rotation seal and it needed to be reverse. Still no reply from USE.