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cruiser
07-08-2013, 08:23 AM
I have a powerslot so the shaft is the bigger of the two. Can you change the packing gland and the hose without pulling the shaft completely out? Do they sell the gland material and the hose as a kit?

FrankSchwab
07-08-2013, 12:52 PM
If you need to simply re-pack the stuffing box, then you can do that easily without removing the shaft. This (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box) is a good tutorial. Skidim (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GFO3/16X24) will have the packing.

If, however, the hose is torn or deteriorated and needs replacing, then you'll have to at least seperate the coupler at the transmission, remove the coupler from the shaft, and slide the shaft back. If you still don't have enough space, you'll have to remove the prop - at which time the whole shaft should slide right out the back.

d2jp
07-08-2013, 01:58 PM
I have a powerslot so the shaft is the bigger of the two. Can you change the packing gland and the hose without pulling the shaft completely out? Do they sell the gland material and the hose as a kit?

Like Frank said, you can usually change the packing material in a powerslot without removing the shaft. Big block motors (454) being an exception. That link he provided is a good resource. You have the larger drive shaft 1-1/8" and will need the 3/16" packing. I used the GFO (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GFO3/16X24) last time and it works great. With the powerslot gear reduction, you don't typically have a ton of room to slide the packing nut up the shaft, but usually enough to pick out the old material and install the new.

To replace the hose, you will need to pull the shaft - which involves removing the coupling. You'll also need to remove the prop - which I would do first, plenty of threads around on that. I soaked my coupling for a couple of days with PB Blaster and used the homemade puller with 4 pc of threaded rod and some nuts. Here's a link (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=54563) where I pulled my shaft. SkiDim also has the shaft hose, it's sold in 6" sections. My repair was a little more involved as my boat was leaking around the joint where the stuffing box is affixed to the hull. While I was reparing this leak, I decided to replace the other stuff.

Lastly, if you have all of this stuff off - might as well replace the cutlass bearings. Pretty easy to do and not too much money. I've heard the 'recommended interval' on replacement is 300-500 hrs. but have heard of boats with 1000+ hrs still on the original. Mine wasn't worn bad at all, but I replaced it since I was already pulling the shaft.

cruiser
07-09-2013, 08:36 AM
What diameter hose? Cutlass bearing must have been replaced, it feels great.

88 PS190
07-09-2013, 01:49 PM
Pull prop regardless - you never want to split the coupler at the transmission with a 300$ hunk of metal attached to the rear or you'll smash into the rudder.

For the hose - there is a specific product - it is thick - I think 6 ply hose with reinforcement.

If you leave your boat in the water unattended or spend much time boating far from shores/docks I would make sure you buy the proper stuff.

Skidim sells and recommends what is essentially marine radiator hose for the shaft log. If this fails your boat will sink shortly. Probably fine if you boat from a lift on a small lake and can get back to your lift.

Otherwise source the good stuff.