View Full Version : Dragging brake, caliper, and reservoir problems

07-01-2013, 07:03 AM
Ok guys, here is my problem. My last long towing trip with the ’08 X2 I notice the gas mileage went way down. I jacked up the boat and trailer and spun the wheels. The right side spun several revolutions before coming to rest. The left only made it a half to 1 revolution. I took that tire off and saw the caliper in the picture. It doesn’t look like it is retracting all the way. Am I right? It also doesn’t look like the rubber is resting correctly. I have been reading many posts about the reliable caliper being junk and you should switch to the Kodiaks. My calipers are the Kodiak 225. Is this the right one? I called Orielly’s and they told me they can have one here for $36. Does that price sound right, seems too cheap to me.

My next problem is I pulled off the reservoir cap and saw the rusty fluid in the picture. I think I need to drain, clean and refill the reservoir. What is the best way to do that? Also, what do you guys do to bleed the brakes? How do you actuate the plunger on the tongue? I noticed the Kodiak caliper has a bleeder and some other cap. Is there something you need to do with the other cap?

07-01-2013, 07:07 AM

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

07-01-2013, 07:08 AM

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

07-01-2013, 08:23 AM
A good place to get trailer parts is etrailer.com. You can call them with questions. They know thier stuff. Here's a link how to bleed the brakes. You need to get that current fluid out of there.


I take my hitch ball out of the vehicle reciever and use it as the lever to work the actuator.

07-01-2013, 09:45 AM
Just checked mine (07 x2) and it looked the same, I was horrified. I stared by using a vacuum pump to get all the fluid out of the reservoir then used a rag soaked with new brake fluid to wipe out the reservoir as best I could. Then the fun part began.

I have a motive products power bleeder (http://www.motiveproducts.com/). I need to buy the trailer brake adapter (http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/1102-Classic-American-Car-and-Marine-Trailer-Adapter-_p_109.html) but for now have rigged up an adapter to work. I filled up the reservoir then proceeded to open the bleeder on the rear right caliper (furthest away form the master cylinder). realized that when MC painted the trailer they didn't install the bleeder dust covers so they were all plugged. With pressure still in the system I remove the bleeders one by one and ran about two quarts of brake fluid through the system reinstalling the bleeders while the pressure was still on the line. Not really the way I wanted to do this but it seems to have worked well. I'd say my brake fluid is about 80% good right now. I plan to do this again once I get the adapter and new bleeders and again every year from now on. It's really not difficult and if the boat is off the trailer it's really pretty easy.

A note on that cap..... The rubber hanging from the cap actually is a lining for the cap that should be pushed back into the cap.

My calipers seem fine but I will be watching them. I greased the slide and put anti squeal on the backs of the pads then check for heat on all the wheels after a couple rather long pulls. Everything seems to be OK so far.

I would suggest calling Kodiak and asking them about rebuilding or getting the right caliper. I believe they use different materials for their brake parts. I noticed that my bleeders were brass.

07-02-2013, 05:59 AM
Thanks for the help guys. Anything else you guys can think of that I need to do it check?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

07-03-2013, 06:33 AM
Seals and boots are available at etraler for under $10 per brake, they use the same seal as the Kodiak caliper. Pull the pistons out clean and polish and reassemble with new seals. With the calipers off you can purge out all that bad brake fluid. It also looks like you have a "Reliable" master cylinder wich is no longer produced. If its bad you may need to replace it as well. I have done 2 trailers and have had good luck.

07-05-2013, 07:06 AM
What do you replace the reliable master cylinder with?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

07-05-2013, 09:53 AM
A complete UFP retro fit that they just came out with seems to be the most popular. Straight forward bolt on that most average Joes can install if you can bleed brakes.

07-05-2013, 11:14 AM
What do you replace the reliable master cylinder with?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Threads you may be interested in:


07-07-2013, 07:51 AM
I ordered the bolt on replacement. I assume it it's DOT 3, but I was curious if anyone has used 4 or 5.

07-17-2013, 09:30 PM
I got my outer member painted and the inner assembly installed. I see what others have said about spinning the assembly on the brake line to prevent the line from twisting. Before I did that I prehung the assembly on the trailer frame and noticed an issue. On the old assembly the female port on the back of the reverse lockout cylinder is close to the pivot point of the coupler assembly. On the new coupler assembly the port is much further forward. I think I can get the flexible brake line to reach the port and screw in. My concern is that the line will already be stretched and taught that it won't be long enough to allow the coupler assembly to swing away. Am I missing something? Has anyone ran into situation?

07-27-2013, 10:21 AM
How did you get your brake line attached? Do you remove the old adapter from the reliable one and attach it to the new UFP solenoid?

07-29-2013, 06:04 AM
I'm not sure what you mean by adapter.