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debecker13
10-05-2005, 12:21 PM
Looking through my manual and the winterization check list, there is a note to remove the plugs on both sides of the block, and to also remove the knock sensor if it is fuel injected. Is the knock sensor installed in place of the plug on one side of the block or is there a plug on both sides and a knock sensor in addition?

Also noted is to remove cap and screen from raw water strainer. Do all boats have this raw water strainer. I assume if they do all have the raw water strainer that it would be near the raw water pump. I can not locate this item on my boat.

Another item directs me to remove and replace the impeller every season and to check for water before storing for the winter. Where is the impeller and how do I replace it?

I have a 95 PS 190 out here in Colorado and we are supposed to get down to 25 degrees tonight. I think I have most of the water out of the engine, but just had these few questions.

east tx skier
10-05-2005, 12:41 PM
I did the check list, but have a carb boat. Try www.indmar.com. They have engine manuals in the download section that will show you where it is on your chevy engine.

Raw water strainer is not an OEM part on a MC. If you have one, it will be inline with your intake hose between the hull and the transmission cooler.

The impeller is located inside the water pump housing. On your boat, it's on the front of the engine right at the deck line. It lines up with your pylon almost perfectly. There are 3 or four screws holding a plate on it. You don't have to remove it if you're going to replace it in the spring. Just pull your kill switch after you drain and crank the engine for a few seconds to spit the water out of the pump housing.

In the spring, you can remove the plate and pull the impeller out with a couple of flat head screw drivers. More info at www.aquaskier.com. Also, check the FAQ section at www.wakesiderides.com

G-man
10-05-2005, 12:47 PM
The knock sensor is on the drivers side of the block, no block plug on this side. Easy to find, there is a wire coming out of it. You don't need to remove impeller but drain both hoses on the pump in front of the bottom main pulley, I drain the main big hose going to the water pump on the block. The one like what cars have. Drain both engine exhaust manifolds towards the rear. 1/2 inch socket wrench if you don't have the two hoses that meet in middle, if so unscrew from the middle and drain. Drian any shower or heater hoses if you have them. I dry out the water in the bilge to keep it clean and not rust stained. Check out the FAQ's on this website about further winterization procedures. All this did was drain the block.

bigmac
10-05-2005, 12:49 PM
Looking through my manual and the winterization check list, there is a note to remove the plugs on both sides of the block, and to also remove the knock sensor if it is fuel injected. Is the knock sensor installed in place of the plug on one side of the block or is there a plug on both sides and a knock sensor in addition?

Also noted is to remove cap and screen from raw water strainer. Do all boats have this raw water strainer. I assume if they do all have the raw water strainer that it would be near the raw water pump. I can not locate this item on my boat.

Another item directs me to remove and replace the impeller every season and to check for water before storing for the winter. Where is the impeller and how do I replace it?

I have a 95 PS 190 out here in Colorado and we are supposed to get down to 25 degrees tonight. I think I have most of the water out of the engine, but just had these few questions.


On fuel injected engines, the knock sensor usually goes in in place of one of the block drain plugs (not true of the 8.1 liter, where the knock sensor is separate). It has a wire/connector attached. On mine, I detached the connector and it unscrewed with a 7/8 socket. There is some thread sealant on it - make sure it's ok, then reinsert, torque it down to only about 16 ft-lbs. and reconnect.

The raw water pump impeller is in the raw water pump on the front and toward the bottom of your engine. Unscrew the cover and pull the impeller. It's likely to be a difficult pull, but it will come out.

PendO
10-05-2005, 12:52 PM
On fuel injected engines, the knock sensor usually goes in in place of one of the block drain plugs (not true of the 8.1 liter, where the knock sensor is separate). It has a wire/connector attached. On mine, I detached the connector and it unscrewed with a 7/8 socket. There is some thread sealant on it - make sure it's ok, then reinsert, torque it down to only about 16 ft-lbs. and reconnect.

The raw water pump impeller is in the raw water pump on the front and toward the bottom of your engine. Unscrew the cover and pull the impeller. It's likely to be a difficult pull, but it will come out.

So on the 8.1 there is no need to pull the knock sensor ...

bigmac
10-05-2005, 01:07 PM
So on the 8.1 there is no need to pull the knock sensor ...

Right. Removing the knock sensor on the 8.1 does not drain the block. There is a brass drain plug on each side of the block in the usual location in addition to the knock sensor.

debecker13
10-05-2005, 05:17 PM
Thanks for all the quick responses. I now know that all of the plugs have been removed from the block (the knock sensor is installed instead of the plug on my boat). I do not have raw water strainer installed on my boat, should that be an item to add at a later date?

And right in line with my usual do it yourself projects, I tried to remove the impeller per the directions above and the third bolt that I removed sheared off in the hole.... arrgh. Now it looks like a trip to the dealer or repair shop.

Thanks again

east tx skier
10-05-2005, 05:19 PM
If you're in a pinch, just leave the impeller in for the winter and replace it in the spring. Just pull the kill switch and spin it a bit so that you get the water out of the pump housing.

/I know, I know, I'd want to make a trip to the dealer to ... just because.

dcrossnrinfinet
10-06-2005, 12:46 PM
Thanks for all the quick responses. I now know that all of the plugs have been removed from the block (the knock sensor is installed instead of the plug on my boat). I do not have raw water strainer installed on my boat, should that be an item to add at a later date?

And right in line with my usual do it yourself projects, I tried to remove the impeller per the directions above and the third bolt that I removed sheared off in the hole.... arrgh. Now it looks like a trip to the dealer or repair shop.

Thanks again

I had one of the bolts shear off in the hole last year. I drilled into the center of the part of the bolt in the whole with a hand cranked drill. Then screwed a tool that I got at advance auto parts for a few bucks into the hole and used a wrench on it to remove the part of the bolt. It was quite easy only took a few minutes to do. Be very careful with an electric drill you could make a mess in a hurry.

debecker13
10-06-2005, 01:07 PM
If I'm feeling brave I'll try to drill and retap the hole (or are you talking about doing something different). I think access to the area is going to be the issue because of the center pole being in the way.

Kevin 89MC
10-10-2005, 10:43 AM
I had one of those brass bolts snap off a few years ago. They're pretty fragile! I think I was able to grab it with pliers, because the head sheared off leaving just enough of the stud exposed. It should not be very tight. The drill bit and "easy out" tool should work good, too, if it's small enough, and if you can get access. Oh yeah, get a brass screw. Ski Dim sells them. I couldn't find one locally, and put in a regular steel screw. It started to rust/corrode in a few months. I bought a 4-pack from Ski Dim and replaced all of mine.
Good luck,
Kevin