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TURSTY
06-11-2013, 11:20 PM
Hey all,

I am building a DIY heater for my 2001 Xstar with the 5.7l injected Indmar 330hp motor.

Can anyone point me in the right direction on where to find the heater water feed and return on the motor?

Pics would be ideal as I think I have found a couple of possible bungs on the port side of the motor near the back, but not sure which it correct.

wheelerd
06-12-2013, 12:18 AM
Check out this thread. http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=20018
It has some good pics and info. It shows an MCX but the hookups are the same for your engine.

TURSTY
06-16-2013, 07:20 AM
Thanks for the link. I have had a look over my motor and it looks slightly different. The fuel rails on my engine seem to be joined at the back and the joiner hoses run straight over the heater outlet by the looks. Has anyone got around this issue before? Im not sure any kind of fitting would clear the lines, even a 90* bend =S.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zpsc2bfdd6e.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/null_zpsc2bfdd6e.jpg.html)

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zpscd5ad0eb.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/null_zpscd5ad0eb.jpg.html)

bigmac
06-16-2013, 08:23 AM
Yah, that's tight quarters. All you need is a hose barb for a 5/8 line. On the MCX, there's a 45 degree angled brass fitting and a valve. That is the place where you want your supply line.

The return line is a similar plug on your engine's circulating pump. Depending on the boat, might be kind of hard to get to. IMHO, using a Y-pipe (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=H424) for the return line is easier to deal with and additionally is more effective in that it creates far better heat output at idle or low RPM.

http://SSEquine.net/heatervalveMCX.jpg

http://SSEquine.net/yadapter.jpg

willg
06-17-2013, 05:53 PM
I have a 2002 xstar w/ factory heater. The connection is in a different place. I'll go take some pictures now.

wheelerd
06-17-2013, 07:38 PM
Here are two pics from my former 01 X5. The supply line is just above the water pump pulley. I just unscrewed the plug that was in the manifold and screwed in the 90 degree brass fitting. At the bottom of the second pic you can just barely see the Y of the return as it enters the raw water intake hose.

willg
06-17-2013, 09:27 PM
On my boat, 2002 X-star (5.7L LTR engine) w/ factory heater, the valve is on the side of the block, between the spark plugs and under the manifold. It was really hard to get a good picture with the dividers in, I'll try to take a better one tomorrow. In the second picture, you can see the brass valve right in the center of the image between the exhaust. I have no idea where the water returns to the engine.


http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i367/will199207/DSC_0003.jpg (http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/will199207/media/DSC_0003.jpg.html)
http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i367/will199207/DSC_0005.jpg (http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/will199207/media/DSC_0005.jpg.html)

TURSTY
06-21-2013, 07:56 AM
Had a look at the boat today.

The port on the front of the waterpump is in use by a sensor:

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/Waterpumpport_zps6bf62498.jpeg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/Waterpumpport_zps6bf62498.jpeg.html)


It looks like there are two ports on the side of the heads like in your pics willg. One on each side.

Does anyone know what the coolant path through these motors is? i.e. which head would have the hottest water coming out of it?

Locations (not my motor, but a pic from google):

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/Heaterlocations_zps25f8ad62.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/Heaterlocations_zps25f8ad62.jpg.html)


Starboard side:

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/Starboardsideport_zps2a7d64cb.jpeg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/Starboardsideport_zps2a7d64cb.jpeg.html)


Port side:

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/Portsideport_zpsf8aa1858.jpeg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/Portsideport_zpsf8aa1858.jpeg.html)

wheelerd
06-21-2013, 08:56 AM
Coolant flow on a GM small block (with the exception of the LT1):
- in from raw water pump (in from lower rad in a vehicle)
- out back of water pump into front of block
- through block up into intake manifold
- past thermostat
- out to exhaust risers (out to upper rad in a vehicle)

Because of this flow your hottest water will be right before the thermostat. That's why the heater supply hose typically comes out of the intake manifold (as my earlier post and the pic of the MCX shows.)
The hot water supply for my shower comes from the LH side of engine (V drive, so starboard side of the boat) at the drain plug hole.

uplander
06-21-2013, 10:52 PM
can you post a pic of your DIY heater box

wheelerd
06-22-2013, 12:28 AM
My install was an OEM 2-duct Heatercraft unit that I brought on Ebay from an MC owner who never had his installed.
You can see the edge of the heater core in the pic behind the battery. The visible hose comes around the battery to a hot tube under the observer's seat. The second hose which you can't see goes under the walkthru to an outlet at the driver's feet.
The hoses to and from the engine go under the floor through a cutout that was already there. You can barely see one on the bow side of the core. (The hose between the amps is the fresh air intake for the bilge.)

TURSTY
06-22-2013, 07:54 AM
Thanks for the pics wheelerd. I am assuming that both the heads are fed via the block and both sides are split at the water pump outlet? Being that my outlets on the waterpump and the intake mani are in use/not accessible due to the fuel line, the head outlet on the port side of the boat (right side of the motor) would be the next best as its further from the water pump then the opposite side? Thinking about it, the water in the motor is regulated by the thermostat so I would have thought most of the outlets will be fairly similar in temp anyway?

I havn't got round to building the heater box yet, but I will post pics when I have made it. Still trying to work out the cheapest way to blow air through it. Was thinking of looking into a few high flow computer fans or something similar. Need to do a bit of testing for it.

wheelerd
06-22-2013, 09:45 AM
The back of the water pump will look like the pic below (or something close depending on the exact GM application.)

Cooled water goes out the two mounting ears into each side of the block, then up through the water passages where the block and heads mate, and then up into the intake manifold and out the front. I'm not sure what the temperature differential would be between water in the block around the cylinders and water coming out of the manifolds. The "fire" is in the combustion chambers so there is certainly more heat being generated at the top of the engine.

You may be able to design/build your own heater core and blower but I think you would need a stronger fan than a computer fan. The stock fan is a centrifugal one. Maybe you are a whiz with building things like this but for my money and time I would just go with the ready-to-install one from Heatercraft. http://www.heatercraft.com/heaters/

TURSTY
06-22-2013, 06:28 PM
Yeah I would say the difference between the heads would be much of a muchness. If the factory installed heater uses the Starboard side feed off the head, then I might just go with that.

Re the core, I live in New Zealand, so Im looking at around $1100 for a heatercraft one once shipping is added etc and I kind of enjoy making things. I have a tig welder so will build a enclosure out of alloy and a old truck/car heater core. I can get access to heaps of cooling fans from servers/network switches from work so hope to use a few of them and end up spending somewhere around $2-300 for the whole thing. If I cant find a fan/s that will move enough air, I might look into buying a automotive blower.

TOO-TALL
06-22-2013, 07:42 PM
On my boat, 2002 X-star (5.7L LTR engine) w/ factory heater, the valve is on the side of the block, between the spark plugs and under the manifold. It was really hard to get a good picture with the dividers in, I'll try to take a better one tomorrow. In the second picture, you can see the brass valve right in the center of the image between the exhaust. I have no idea where the water returns to the engine.


http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i367/will199207/DSC_0003.jpg (http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/will199207/media/DSC_0003.jpg.html)
http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i367/will199207/DSC_0005.jpg (http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/will199207/media/DSC_0005.jpg.html)

Thats where my valve is located. Do you think I would get hotter water if I pluged into the port by the thermostat.

wheelerd
06-22-2013, 07:51 PM
Yeah I would say the difference between the heads would be much of a muchness. If the factory installed heater uses the Starboard side feed off the head, then I might just go with that.

Re the core, I live in New Zealand, so Im looking at around $1100 for a heatercraft one once shipping is added etc and I kind of enjoy making things. I have a tig welder so will build a enclosure out of alloy and a old truck/car heater core. I can get access to heaps of cooling fans from servers/network switches from work so hope to use a few of them and end up spending somewhere around $2-300 for the whole thing. If I cant find a fan/s that will move enough air, I might look into buying a automotive blower.

Sounds like you'll do just fine. Post some pics of your fabrication process.

willg
06-25-2013, 01:08 PM
Thats where my valve is located. Do you think I would get hotter water if I pluged into the port by the thermostat.

I don't know how well my heater works, I haven't got it working yet. It blows air but without any heat. I assume it must have a pump in the heater to move the hot water through? I don't understand how the pressure from the engine water pump is enough to run the heater. And I still can't figure out where the return line ties in.

wheelerd
06-26-2013, 12:54 AM
If it's an OEM heater there is no pump in it. Water circulates via the engine water pump, just like water through the rad in a car. Do you have no heat, period? Or just no heat at idle? Y-ing the return into the raw inlet hose like the diagram in post #4 is the answer to the latter issue because creates more negative pressure to help draw the from the heater. You should be able to determine where your return hose enters the engine if you just look for a hose like the supply hose.

TURSTY
06-26-2013, 07:05 PM
Started mocking up a heater box from cardboard so I can see what flow will be like with multiple pc type fans.

The heater craft units move 266 CFM on high. I have worked out I can fit in 2x120mm fans at 74 CFM each, and 5x 80mm fans at 38 CFM each, giving a total of 338 CFM. Now I'm no pro when it comes to airflow characteristics so I could be totaly wrong adding all the fans together (back flow, pressure etc could play a part??), but it sounds like its worth testing. All up the fans would be under $100 for new ones compared to $400 odd for a blower.

Here's some pics so far:

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zpsb29e32ae.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zps32e482fe.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zps6ff84808.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zpsebd7cf21.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zps17277f68.jpg

willg
06-26-2013, 07:58 PM
Started mocking up a heater box from cardboard so I can see what flow will be like with multiple pc type fans.

The heater craft units move 266 CFM on high. I have worked out I can fit in 2x120mm fans at 74 CFM each, and 5x 80mm fans at 38 CFM each, giving a total of 338 CFM. Now I'm no pro when it comes to airflow characteristics so I could be totaly wrong adding all the fans together (back flow, pressure etc could play a part??), but it sounds like its worth testing. All up the fans would be under $100 for new ones compared to $400 odd for a blower.

Here's some pics so far:


I would think computer fans might have a problem creating enough pressure. This is another option for less $$: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEACHOICE-IN-LINE-BILGE-BLOWER-4-240-CFM-41841-WHITE-/350460382380?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item5199110cac&vxp=mtr

If it's an OEM heater there is no pump in it. Water circulates via the engine water pump, just like water through the rad in a car. Do you have no heat, period? Or just no heat at idle? Y-ing the return into the raw inlet hose like the diagram in post #4 is the answer to the latter issue because creates more negative pressure to help draw the from the heater. You should be able to determine where your return hose enters the engine if you just look for a hose like the supply hose.

How is the return line run from the factory? I haven't been able to figure out where mine returns to the engine, there is definitely not a y return line in the raw water inlet. I haven't invested much time into the source of no heat, I never need the heater, but it blows cool air at every speed.

TURSTY
06-26-2013, 08:18 PM
I would think computer fans might have a problem creating enough pressure. This is another option for less $$: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEACHOICE-IN-LINE-BILGE-BLOWER-4-240-CFM-41841-WHITE-/350460382380?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item5199110cac&vxp=mtr


Thats another option I was looking at. I was actually thinking of using 3 of these inline in each of the ducts and have them sucking air through the heater core rather then blowing into the front of it. I might actually change tact and go with this option. I think it will deliver better air flow results for the same price. And might mean the heater box can be a lot smaller.

Thinking about it.....if these were in line, they could actually go anywhere in the duct which will give a bit more flexability.

The only issue is the noise....blowers are usually not the quietest things in the world!!

willg
06-26-2013, 08:40 PM
Thats another option I was looking at. I was actually thinking of using 3 of these inline in each of the ducts and have them sucking air through the heater core rather then blowing into the front of it. I might actually change tact and go with this option. I think it will deliver better air flow results for the same price. And might mean the heater box can be a lot smaller.

Thinking about it.....if these were in line, they could actually go anywhere in the duct which will give a bit more flexability.

The only issue is the noise....blowers are usually not the quietest things in the world!!

Yeah, I though about the noise too, but if you mount them before the core and maybe wrap them in insulation they might not be too bad. The factory heater in my boat is louder than the blowers.

Table Rocker
06-26-2013, 08:59 PM
You might be able to work with something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MCC-12V-Dual-Squirrel-Cage-Twin-Blower-Fan-Motor-Assy-/250875055779

wheelerd
06-27-2013, 01:51 AM
How is the return line run from the factory? I haven't been able to figure out where mine returns to the engine, there is definitely not a y return line in the raw water inlet. I haven't invested much time into the source of no heat, I never need the heater, but it blows cool air at every speed.

The Y into the raw water hose is an after-market thing. On my current boat the return line goes into the water pump RH side.

TURSTY
07-16-2013, 07:12 AM
I haven't given up on this yet. My blower started making a horrible noise the other day, so used it as an excuse to buy a 270cfm 4" blower to test with the heater. At $70 I would be happy using two of these if need be. Will now have to dig out a battery and see what the flow is like through the core. All going well, I will build a proper box out of alloy next and mount two of these suckers on it for lots of hot goodness.

Will then need to work out how to make some hot tubes on the cheap. Thinking round car vents and some tricky alloy tubing with flexible inserts etc.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zps402c487b.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/null_zps402c487b.jpg.html)

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zps585e4ba1.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/null_zps585e4ba1.jpg.html)

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zpse5bb148f.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/null_zpse5bb148f.jpg.html)

wheelerd
07-16-2013, 11:17 AM
At least you're having fun being inventive!

TURSTY
07-20-2013, 08:46 AM
At least you're having fun being inventive!

haha yeah....and saving some money! =).

Tried out the blower and the air flow was what I would call "Good", with one, so should be pretty much perfect with two of these. And this blower is rather quiet so with the core inside a locker, it should be quiet enough to not be annoying.

Getting closer to having a working heater box now.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zps06bcf30e.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/null_zps06bcf30e.jpg.html)

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zpsad0c476b.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/null_zpsad0c476b.jpg.html)

TURSTY
07-27-2013, 01:40 AM
Heater box is done...apart from paint/powdercoating depending on what I decide.

Did a test with hot water out of the tap and with only one blower, its cranking out hot air probably as good as my 08 Navara does. Should be perfect with two fans!!!

Now to try and make the hot tubes for cheap :D

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zpsd9b93667.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/null_zpsd9b93667.jpg.html)

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zps8930d25b.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/null_zps8930d25b.jpg.html)

wheelerd
07-27-2013, 02:00 AM
Bravo! You need to go into mass production now.:)

TURSTY
07-27-2013, 06:14 AM
Haha give heater craft a run for their money you recon? :P

JohnnyB
07-27-2013, 07:28 AM
You can buy the heater core/fan unit from summit racing

Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

TURSTY
08-20-2013, 05:50 AM
Made some more progress.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zps2f171726.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/null_zps2f171726.jpg.html)

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zpsc7df4c1f.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/null_zpsc7df4c1f.jpg.html)

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zps1bd16651.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/tursty1/media/Boat/null_zps1bd16651.jpg.html)

I also bit the bullet after not being able to find any suitable flexible duct, and ordered 3 hot tubes from heatercraft.

So far the whole thing has cost me $650NZD ($520 US) for a 3 outlet heater with 3 hot tubes. So it has saved me about $300nz when shipping etc is taken into account. I was hoping to get it done cheaper, but not being able to find the ducting here has kind of killed that hope.

This thing better work! haha.

TURSTY
08-26-2013, 12:55 AM
Finished the heater install after the hot tubes arrived in record time (2 days from the US to NZ!!!!).

So the heater CRANKS out hot air when running it on the hard using a fake a lake/hose connection.

Took it for a test in the river, and its warm......but not hugely hot. The boat runs pretty cold usually so might have to look into a new/higher thermostat. From memory it runs a line or two below 160 on the temp gauge.....will have to check that though.

Has anyone managed to do anything to get hotter water heading to the heater core?

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zpsa44fa120.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zps94e2c859.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zps6e1799ca.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zpsf06dbee8.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zpsb24b0d3e.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zps5eb49972.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff284/tursty1/Boat/null_zps910ae67b.jpg

bigmac
08-26-2013, 05:09 AM
Took it for a test in the river, and its warm......but not hugely hot. The boat runs pretty cold usually so might have to look into a new/higher thermostat. From memory it runs a line or two below 160 on the temp gauge.....will have to check that though.

Has anyone managed to do anything to get hotter water heading to the heater core?

]



Jeez, don't change your engine operating temperature. That won't work anyway.

Get a Y-pipe (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=H424). It creates far better heat output at idle or low RPM.

http://SSEquine.net/yadapter.jpg

wheelerd
08-26-2013, 10:34 AM
160 is exactly where it should be running. You don't want to change that.
As bigmac says, install a Y pipe. That's key to getting better circulation since the hot water is not only being pushed through on the supply side but pulled through on the return.

TURSTY
08-26-2013, 04:54 PM
Just checked the gauge. Its running at 140F and gets up to 160 when wakesurfing or running on a fake a lake.

I have it installed with a "Y" pipe back into the intake and its still not what I would call hot.

Should I be expecting the same sort of heat you would get from a car heater, or are they always going to be hotter as they usually run around 180F or 82C?

uplander
08-26-2013, 06:08 PM
from what i have read you want the hot water coming out of your intake and returning to the intake line at the bottom of your boat like the picture posted. your install looks good, wish I had the cash to do it also

wheelerd
08-26-2013, 06:08 PM
My temp stays right around 160 regardless of speed or load. 140 does seem a tad cool.

Mine never really gets "hot" but I would say it is nice and warm.

The other thing to consider would be the size of the heater core and speed of the fan you've installed. It is possible for there to be too much heater core surface and too high an air flow, thereby not allowing the air to really heat up all that much. Also, mine is a two-duct unit whereas yours is three -- not sure if that affects the heat level.

You did a great job of the fabrication and the install from the looks of the pics.

TURSTY
08-26-2013, 06:25 PM
Thanks for the Praise. Im pretty happy with how it turned out.

I might pull the thermostat just to check it is still doing its job/hasn't disintegrated etc.

The core itself if a 4wd heater core from a car. They usually have multiple vents and a huge blower so I would have thought the core size and airflow shouldn't cause an issue. I think if I can get the water to sit and 160 where it should be it will be prefect (when running on the fake a lake it sits at 160 and the heater air is right where I want it!).

Now need to figure out how to install a shower =P.

bigmac
08-27-2013, 02:08 AM
Just checked the gauge. Its running at 140F and gets up to 160 when wakesurfing or running on a fake a lake.

I have it installed with a "Y" pipe back into the intake and its still not what I would call hot.

Should I be expecting the same sort of heat you would get from a car heater, or are they always going to be hotter as they usually run around 180F or 82C?

The Y pipe I linked to above from SkiDim isn't just a "Y" fitting. It's actually calibrated, one limb smaller and containing a flow restrictor, and specifically designed to increase heat in these boat systems.

It's odd that your boat changes operating temp under load. I don't think it should. Mine goes to 160 and stays there regardless of the load on the boat. I'd want to look into that if it was my boat.

TURSTY
08-27-2013, 02:27 AM
Ah I didn't realise they had a flow restrictor, I might look into getting one. I just have a standard Y fitting currently. It's got clear hose on it though and I can see good flow at idle so it's definitely moving water through the core.

The fast that it only gets hot under load leads me to believe it might be a sticky thermostat. If its stuck slightly open its never going to get to its full operating temp in 50-55 degree water (it's still winter here).

Will see what I can find.

ac505
08-27-2013, 04:07 AM
Sorry to bump this thread...... Can somebody tell me the overall diameter of the restricted return line on the Y piece pls? I have tee'd into the raw water intake on my setup, running 14mm (9/16) hose. Thinking I may need to throttle this down a little, but not sure how far down is required.

wheelerd
08-27-2013, 09:38 AM
As the diagram shows it is 5/8 -- standard heater hose size.

bigmac
08-27-2013, 09:54 AM
As the diagram shows it is 5/8 -- standard heater hose size.

The flow restrictor on the inside of that 5/8 fitting is substantially smaller than that.

wheelerd
08-27-2013, 09:58 AM
Ah -- when I installed it on my X5 I didn't even look at the inside diameter.

ac505
08-27-2013, 04:03 PM
Any idea how much to throttle the return down by? Was thinking on dropping it down to around 10mm (3/8)

TURSTY
08-27-2013, 04:33 PM
So is it the heater return line that is restricted? I.e. the amount of water passing through the heater core is slowed down?

I have Ball valves in both the feed and return line to the heater incase of any potential leaks/hose failiers, so I could use the return live ball valve to restrict the flow if needed. Might have a play around and see if it makes a difference next time Im on the river.

wheelerd
08-27-2013, 08:32 PM
So is it the heater return line that is restricted? I.e. the amount of water passing through the heater core is slowed down?

I have Ball valves in both the feed and return line to the heater incase of any potential leaks/hose failiers, so I could use the return live ball valve to restrict the flow if needed. Might have a play around and see if it makes a difference next time Im on the river.

Sounds like a perfect solution. You can tailor the flow for optimum heat.

ac505
08-28-2013, 02:19 AM
Ball valves should not be used to throttle the flow, many reasons for this (google is your friend). If you change one ball valve to a gate valve (doesnt mattet if it is on thr flow or return) then you can use that to tune the flow.

Still keen to find out the diameter of the restrictive on the Y piece, can anybody help pls?

bigmac
08-28-2013, 03:22 AM
So is it the heater return line that is restricted? I.e. the amount of water passing through the heater core is slowed down?

I have Ball valves in both the feed and return line to the heater incase of any potential leaks/hose failiers, so I could use the return live ball valve to restrict the flow if needed. Might have a play around and see if it makes a difference next time Im on the river.


Yes, the return line is restricted. I can't recall how small the hole is in that limb of the Y fitting that SkiDim sells. When I installed the Y fitting, converting from the stock OEM configuration, I just detached the return line from from the circulating pump and plugged the hole, rerouting the return hose to hook up to the Y. A few mfgrs put that Y fitting in when they install the heater option. It increases the heat output at low RPM quite a bit but it doesn't get as hot as any car I've ever had.

http://SSEquine.net/yadapter.jpg

TURSTY
02-04-2014, 08:30 PM
Just to add a bit of an update to this. I have used the ball valve in my setup to limit the flow to the heater and this is what I have found:

Valve fully open = not very warm at all
Valve 25% open = sometimes too hot to have next to bare skin!!!!!

I think about 25% of the flow from a 5/8th hose seems to be the sweet spot.

All in all.....LOVING my DYI heaters!!! =)