View Full Version : Anyone have a light bar or Mastercraft speaker/lights...
RobertT
10-04-2005, 08:52 PM
I wouldn't mind putting the factory speakers and/or light on my boat...I have aftermarket ones that probably are better than average but if somebody has lights or speakers sitting around and wants to dump them let me know.
I hope this is the right place for this post, if not let me know.
On another note, my perfect pass is still not working. They have tried everything. It works great for the first fifteen minutes or so, then the speed readings just start going nuts. Its scary, to watch the digital readout go from 22, down to 7, then up to 42 all within a few seconds.
We are at a loss.
mitch
10-04-2005, 09:14 PM
I wouldn't mind putting the factory speakers and/or light on my boat...I have aftermarket ones that probably are better than average but if somebody has lights or speakers sitting around and wants to dump them let me know.
I hope this is the right place for this post, if not let me know.
On another note, my perfect pass is still not working. They have tried everything. It works great for the first fifteen minutes or so, then the speed readings just start going nuts. Its scary, to watch the digital readout go from 22, down to 7, then up to 42 all within a few seconds.
We are at a loss.
That's a drag. Tried everything? What have they replaced so far?
RobertT
10-04-2005, 09:28 PM
Replaced/bypassed connection between paddlewheel and harness.
Then, replace paddlewheel.
Then, replace main "box".
Then, run new ground wire to battery directly off "box".
At this point I REALLY think it is the main wiring harness, but that harness is not available/backordered.
I just cant figure out why it works when the engine is cold, but not hot. It seems as if something is heating up somewhere and causing problems, but nobody has ever heard of it.
Grrrr.
Leroy
10-04-2005, 09:41 PM
It could be the PP display unit. Also can't you measure the paddlewheel output to see if it's getting to the dashboard?
kcflatlander
10-04-2005, 11:13 PM
I have a 2005 X9. I had the same kind of trouble. Each time I put the speedo sensor through the hull I need to make certain that I push it as far as it will go while applying counterclockwise (facing stern) pressure while I tighten the clamp ring. Works fine when I do this.
Mine would work fine for awhile and then just quit. I tried tinkering with it on the water..... Be carefull how much you back the clamp ring off while floating around.... Lots of water comes through that little hole. :eek:
If the boat is a 2005 or early 2006 here is what needs to be done:
http://mymastercraft.com/Forum/view_thread.cfm?postid=4550&forum=10&category=2
RobertT
10-05-2005, 09:49 AM
Thanks, but its a 04. I am assuming that was isolated to some TBW boats.
Still, we even tried those things too.
Perfect Pass told me right up front that it was probably the main wiring harness for the boat, and that there has been a few problems with it in the past. Because we replaced every component other than the digital display, it tends to lead me to believe that perhaps they are correct.
The problem is that when my dealer (who is great by the way, they have been coming to MY HOUSE on MY DOCK to do the work to prevent me from having to pull the boat out and loose any on water time)....when my dealer ordered the complete wiring harness they were told that it might not be available.
A simple fix would simply be to replace/add a new PP wire from the paddlewheel to under the dash and bypass the main wiring harness that MC provided. However, I personally feel that if there is a wire problem that the entire thing should probably be replaced to prevent future problems.
My only other thought, and its a LOOOONNNNGGGGGG shot, is that perhaps there is some type of RF feedback hitting the control module that is making it go haywire.
IPOD charger?? Ipod amplifier??? I need to disconnect those just to rule it out, but since it takes about 15 minutes for it to fail I haven't done without music that long yet.
The search continues.
Any other ideas anyone???
RF has proven to be an issue with DBW. The only time I have seen such stuff with the old system is when sub-woofers (big hard hitters) were mounted near the PP ECM. BTW if you are still looking for speaker/light pods email me, we have them in stock.
RobertT
10-05-2005, 10:10 AM
Well, I agree its a long shot, but still worth trying.
I have the same IPOD setup in my truck, and if the IPOD is off, I can still hear a fairly loud whine coming from the speakers.
I am using the Belkin car kit, which is a 12v adapter (that plugs into a cigarette lighter), that plugs into your ipod. Also, the adapter has an input for a output wire that then goes to your head unit. In addition, it amplifies the output.
If I can hear a whine in my suburban, its telling me that its possible that corruption of the signal "could" be caused by the IPOD.
I am going out for an extended morning on Friday, I can test it then.
What have you heard about the main wiring harness issues?
The harness issue has come up a couple times before, but not much. Dont know what year your Suburban is but if you would like to get away from that RF stuff try this and you'll be amazed! http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep_pages.php?page_id=79
RobertT
10-05-2005, 10:32 AM
I replaced the head unit in the suburban already, but that JL product seems like a perfect solution...I will get one for the next truck for sure.
JL is working on Maeghan's Touareg now so I will have pics and more info as the project progresses. We got to demo this unit in several different set-ups all I can say is wow. Highly reccomend this to anyone that has DSP (all factory sound systems).