View Full Version : Easiest way to get to the packing nut?
I adjusted my packing nut recently, however, the very next time I took it out, it started leaking too much (probably about 100 drops/min). When I did it, I unbolted the motor box from the panel, and then pulled the panel out. Is this the easiest way to do it?
Also, I'm guessing from the quick recurrence of leakage, that the packing is bad. I just got the boat, and it leaked really bad. I tigthened the bolt about 1/4" along the length of the shaft, but was able to get a drip rate of 10 drops/min. Is the packing shot? What has to come off to replace it?
Finally, what tools are the easiest to use to do the job. I ended up using two crescent wrenches.
09-05-2004, 09:52 AM
Glad to hear about your new boat, David. The rate of 10 drops per minute is only slightly high, you should be around 3-4 in-gear or 1-2 sitting. Mine was completely shot on my 88', and I just did the job last week. Quite simple if you have the right tools and know what steps to take. Read this article, it should answer any questions you may have:
Just make sure you using the right size packing rope, which was 1/4" inch for my boat. Yours should be the same. Use three peices, staggering the joints when you insert. Let us know how it goes!
Thanks for the article. This is my first inboard, and while tightening it wasn't hard, reading the background info helps in understanging, and how to replace it. I think I'll go ahead and replace the packing; I'm sure it has been a while since it was done and probably hard.
The only thing that I question, is that when I spoke to the factory (MC), the tech said they recomend 10-15 drops per minute at idle speed, in gear.
I replaced the packing on my 99 Maristar (v-drive) about a month ago. I tightened the packing nut as far as a could and the drip rate was excessive, so I figured it must have been shot. Ordered the packing rope from DIM (can't remember the sise but it was 1-3/16 I beleive). I also bought a packing nut wrench from West Marine for about $10. I had to cut 1/2 of the handle off in order to the wrench on the nut, which on a vdrive there is not a whole lot of room. Loosen the small brass nut toward the rear of the boat and then loosen the big brass nut towards the front of the boat. Once the large brass nut is off and slides on the shaft, I used dental instruments I got from my dentist's office (free) to pick out the old packing rope. There were 4 short sections after I picked it all out. This was the hardest part of the job for me. I replaced with three short sections of packing rope overlapping the joints. I also found it difficult to get the packing rope in the large brass nut, but after working it I was able to get it all in. Once in, I hand tightened the large brass nut to hand tight plus a quarter turn. Tightend the small brass nut up against the large nut. Then on my next trip to the lake I took the wrench and had to loose it about 1/4 turn to get the proper drip rate at idel and in gear, so I would start with just hand tight then adjust as necessary.
09-07-2004, 09:09 AM
Sounds good on your idea to replace, it's a quite simple procedure. I get maybe 3 to 5 drops per minute in-gear. That's what I was told from DIM, but if your tech says 10 then roll with it. I don't think a few more or less either way will be damaging, you just don't want your drive shaft and packing to overheat if it stays too dry.
09-08-2004, 06:27 AM
I have to say that I went with the dripless PSS packing 4 years ago & don't regret it one bit! I know it's not cost justified ($200.00 compared to $5.00 worth of packing every couple of years), but I NEVER have to worry about it.