View Full Version : 2004 X-10- Removing Dash
06-02-2013, 06:39 PM
Theres got to be an easier way to replace switches and gauges than the way I'm trying. Is there a way to remove the entire dash? I removed the stereo but cant find any other screws or bolts that go through the dash and fiberglass. It seems to be attached somehow around the steering column, but I cant figure out how. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
06-03-2013, 12:08 PM
06-03-2013, 12:18 PM
If my 2005 is the same, underneath the dash there is a wing nu that hold the to of the dash down and two bolts that are mounted by the steering column. It is kinda a pain with all of the wires around. I also removed the drivers seat to have more room while working as well!
06-03-2013, 02:06 PM
Ok, so I found the wing nut and removed it. Loosened the 3 (on mine) nuts around the steering column, and it still seems attached at the column and on the starboard side. Cant find anything else to loosen.
08-28-2013, 04:47 PM
73blue, did you ever get the dash out? I have to do the same thing to mine this weekend. Thanks.
08-28-2013, 06:50 PM
I did. You have to remove the steering wheel( 3 bolts through dash and 4 bolts holding it to steering cable. You will need to fold the black accordion style rubber piece around the steering column back to access the 3 bolt heads). There is a wingnut underneath the dash at the very top that you will need to remove. The hang-up on mine came from a small black screw screwed into the fiberglass just below the steering column hole. Because it was black and screwed deeply into the black plastic it took a while to find. Remove that and the dash should come loose. You're only gonna be able to remove it as far as the wiring allows, so you may need to clip some zipties under the dash as well.
08-28-2013, 11:22 PM
Thanks for the info. I will have to see what will be easier. Snaking my hand in there or taking the dash apart. If I take it apart, I will take some pics for future reference.
09-03-2013, 12:41 PM
I did not end up removing the whole dash from my 210. I found it easy enough to just remove the kick plate board and loosen the nuts up from the speedometer, as the holes back there were just large enough for me to reach everything without any problems. I had an extra set of hands pulling on the front side of the speedometer after I removed the bracket. It took a little pushing and pulling to get it out as it was a tight fit, but not all that difficult. Even running the servo cable was not all that bad. I removed the small floorboard panel just fwd of the center drain plug hole as well as the middle rear seat and cooler so I could see when and where the wire was headed. I had a wire fish that I attached to the back end of the cable and ran it from the hole under the dash and back, using the same wire raceway that is already there. I was fortunately able to pull some of the extra cable out that was wedged in the raceway which gave me just enough room to reach in and grab the fish and servo cable. From there, it just ran under the fuel tank on the stbd side and I had it come out on the port side of the rear of the engine. I removed the separator on the port side storage compartment which allowed me to easily see the cable and connect everything up to the servo itself. The servo took a little maneuvering to get it in an acceptable spot on the cooling hose. I had to angle it back and side it outboard as much as possible so I wouldn't kink the shifter cable. The rest was simple bc all I had to do was attach the module to the kick plate board and plug in all the cables. The last cable came out just behind the kick plate board, which was a quick connect for a harness supplied by PP that enables you to just connect to that instead of running everything to the ignition and worry about grounding as it is all done for you. Unfortunately, PP sent me the incorrect cable bc I have the older paddle wheel version and they sent me the Stargazer harness. All that means is that there is one less connector on there, which is the paddle wheel, so I didn't have speed. It worked out okay though bc I just used the RPM setting. They are overnighting me the correct cable and I will get it installed this weekend.
All in all, I would say that it is a pretty easy install, on the Maristar 210 anyway, taking about 1.5 hrs. I think I could do it again in an hour or less, knowing how it is done. Having an extra set of hands really helps, especially when running the cable. It was also pretty easy to remove from my Prostar 205, so I'm sure it is probably even easier to install on that boat, bc there is better access to the gauges and the cable runs are shorter. You just don't have the quick connect harness, meaning more wiring behind the dash.
Sorry I did not get any pics, but I will try to get a few this weekend if possible.