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87Tristar190
05-30-2013, 01:14 PM
I bought a 1987 Tristar as a bit of a project boat over the winter. I put it in the lake last weekend and it starts very easily and seems to run great except when I put it in gear it stalls about 50-75% of the time. The boat will sit in neutral and idle all day long and is very smooth and once its in gear it pulls like a freight train. Its just getting it into gear where it has problems. If I quickly go from Neutral to a little bit past where it clicks into forward it goes fine, I just know that this isn't good for the transmission. I beleive it's idling between 700-800 rpm's. The guy I bought it from said that his mechanic put on a new distributer and plug wires last season. The plugs still look old though.

Any ideas where to start with this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Jeff

cal69
05-30-2013, 01:17 PM
Try fattening up the idle mixture screws just a 1/4-1/2 turn each and see if that helps. You can always put them back to original setting if that does not do it.

87Tristar190
05-30-2013, 01:22 PM
Sorry it's been a while since I have worked on a carb but which way is richer and which way is leaner? If I were to guess I'd say I'm running on the lean side.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-30-2013, 01:25 PM
Start with the basics:

New plugs if plugs are questionable
New cap and rotor are questionable
New points and condenser...be sure to set dwell with meter
Verify timing is set according to spec.
Set idle speed to 600 - 700 RPM in drive
Clean flame arrestor
Verify that the choke is opening completely after 90 seconds.

Once you have done the above, then I would attach the carb by counting turns to lightly seat the mixture screws. Should be roughly 1 1/2 turns and pretty close to the same on either side.

cal69
05-30-2013, 01:28 PM
clockwise = leaner, counter-clockwise = richer
Though 1 1/2 out is the general starting point, I've found some engines like a bit richer mix, like 2 turns out. mrmastercraft listed some great points.

87Tristar190
05-30-2013, 01:35 PM
Thanks for the quick responses. I'm Pretty familiar with ATV and Dirt bike engines and carbs but not so much with the big V8's.

Plugs I can and will do first.

Flame arrestor I can easily clean.

I have no idea how to do the cap, rotor, points, condenser or timing. Are these fairly simple to do?

I know in neutral my idle is around 700, I haven't looked at it once it's in gear.

I also don't understand the choke opening after 90 seconds. I thought the choke was opened manually by that little metal thing that you pull out under the throttle.

Another bit of information that I forgot to include is that once in gear I can bring the throttle back down to idling forward and it doesn't stall. It's just when engaging the transmission forward or reverse.

Thanks again for the quick responses.

87Tristar190
05-30-2013, 01:37 PM
Any suggestions on what plugs to use? Just incase the ones in there aren't correct?

Table Rocker
05-30-2013, 01:55 PM
It sounds to me like there might be a problem with the neutral safety switch. If it runs well except when the switch is changing positions, it might be grounding out or wired incorrectly. It should be on the starter circuit only, but if someone had their own ideas about how to correctly wire it....

You might try to bypass it and see what happens. I would at least put a test light on the coil and see if it goes dead when you put it in gear.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-30-2013, 02:12 PM
I'm thinking a slight increase in idle speed and a fresh tune-up and life will be good.

homer12
05-30-2013, 04:20 PM
I also don't understand the choke opening after 90 seconds. I thought the choke was opened manually by that little metal thing that you pull out under the throttle.


I think this may be a point of confusion. This sounds like you are talking about the knob you pull out to put the transmission in neutral and allow you to throttle the engine in neutral. I have an 89 TS190 and know manual choke on it. To start, I pump the throttle, warm it up at about 900rpm for a few minutes and then let it idle at normal 600rpm.

CantRepeat
05-30-2013, 05:06 PM
Try fattening up the idle mixture screws just a 1/4-1/2 turn each and see if that helps. You can always put them back to original setting if that does not do it.

The correct way to adjust mixture screws is with a vacuum and RPM gauge.

87Tristar190
05-30-2013, 05:56 PM
Yes I was refering to the knob that allows you to rev it in neutral without engaging the transmission. I didn't know there was a choke other then that.

I'm going to start with some starter fluid around the base of the carb to check for vacuum leaks, cleaning the spark arrester and putting in some new plugs. I guess after that stuff I'll have to get into messing with the carb.

Thanks for all the help. This forum is a great source of info!

cal69
05-30-2013, 05:58 PM
"The correct way to adjust mixture screws is with a vacuum and RPM gauge."

Right. And when you don't have those at your disposal you can try fattening up the idle mixture a bit and adjust the idle speed.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-30-2013, 06:18 PM
Yes I was refering to the knob that allows you to rev it in neutral without engaging the transmission. I didn't know there was a choke other then that.

I'm going to start with some starter fluid around the base of the carb to check for vacuum leaks, cleaning the spark arrester and putting in some new plugs. I guess after that stuff I'll have to get into messing with the carb.

Thanks for all the help. This forum is a great source of info!

Has the ignition been upgraded to electronic ignition yet? If not, you definitely want to deal with replacing points and condenser and getting the dwell set before moving on to other things. Going through the basics will save you time and headaches in trying to get the idle taken care of.

CantRepeat
05-30-2013, 06:21 PM
"The correct way to adjust mixture screws is with a vacuum and RPM gauge."

Right. And when you don't have those at your disposal you can try fattening up the idle mixture a bit and adjust the idle speed.

What would that accomplish? We'd probably end up changing other stuff to try and fix more stuff that we do not know if it is correct or not.

It really doesn't server a purpose as you are doing it blindly with unexpected results. Every boat I've been in has a tach and the vacuum gauges are less then 10 bucks at autozone. The truth is if you are not doing it the correct way you are wasting time and fuel.

The fact is most people don't know how to do it but if they did their boats would run a lot better. It's a easy, inexpensive procedure that anyone can do given a little information.

Riching up the idle could just mask other issues.

cal69
05-30-2013, 06:37 PM
Relax. This is not a pissing contest and no one wants to be corrected, especially in an internet forum.
Go back and read his first post. He indicates that everything is fine except for a stall (50% of the time) as he engages into gear. This is typically a lean condition as the idle circuit transitions into the primary circuit. A slight adjustment to the idle mixture may be all that is needed to help this problem, nothing more.
Yes, the ignition system and timing must be in check before adjusting the fuel system, but he will hurt NOTHING buy fattening up the mixture a small amount. in the end, if it does not fix the problem it can be reversed.....for free!!

CantRepeat
05-30-2013, 06:41 PM
Relax. This is not a pissing contest and no one wants to be corrected, especially in an internet forum.
Go back and read his first post. He indicates that everything is fine except for a stall (50% of the time) as he engages into gear. This is a typically a lean condition as the idle circuit transitions into the primary circuit. A slight adjustment to the idle mixture may be all that is needed to help this problem, nothing more.
Yes, the ignition system and timing must be in check before adjusting the fuel system, but he will hurt NOTHING buy fattening up the mixture a small amount. in the end, if it does not fix the problem it can be reversed.....for free!!

Well, how about we all teach best practices rather then shade tree stuff? If something needs correcting it needs correcting whether it be the internet or otherwise. If there is a correct way to do something then lets as a group do that.

What is typically? If that lean condition is caused by a vacuum leak and you richen the mixture or turn up the idle what does that accomplish?

cal69
05-30-2013, 06:49 PM
Ok, you win. Congrats. I'm a lifelong shade tree mechanic who has gotten by with blind adjustments and luck. Thanks for pointing that out, I needed the reminder.

CantRepeat
05-30-2013, 07:21 PM
You're welcome.

88 PS190
05-30-2013, 09:13 PM
Before doing too much carb tweaking - make sure nothing silly is wrong - like shift cable maladjusted, or junk wrapped up in the prop shaft.

Trans should engage smoothly on these boats - and should represent so much force that it stalls the engine.

87Tristar190
05-31-2013, 11:33 AM
Thanks again for all the input. This really is a great resource of information!

How would I know if the ignition has been upgraded to electronic yet? How do I go about checking if the points and condenser are good or if the dwell is set right? I'm going to work on the boat this afternoon and would like to check these things out, I just don't know how or even where they are on the engine.

Also it does appear that my engine is running pretty lean. I pulled the spark plugs to do a compression check when I bought it and they were older looking and still pretty white. I just never thought about it because the engine started so easily and idled so smooth.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-31-2013, 11:50 AM
Thanks again for all the input. This really is a great resource of information!

How would I know if the ignition has been upgraded to electronic yet? How do I go about checking if the points and condenser are good or if the dwell is set right? I'm going to work on the boat this afternoon and would like to check these things out, I just don't know how or even where they are on the engine.

Also it does appear that my engine is running pretty lean. I pulled the spark plugs to do a compression check when I bought it and they were older looking and still pretty white. I just never thought about it because the engine started so easily and idled so smooth.

To check on the ignition, remove the distributor cap and take a look. Points will look like this

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/forum_images/TechExchange/DazecarsIgnitionTroubleshoot/pic14.jpg

and electronic ignition will look something like this. Note: rotor is removed for picture.

http://www.hot-spark.com/3PRE8U2.jpg

To set dwell you use a dwell meter which costs about $30. This is much more accurate than using point gap which is really only correct to get the engine fired up.

Be sure to take a look at the contacts on the dist cap and rotor. If they are corroded, you can use a flat bladed screwdriver to scrape away the crud and it will improve things, but then it is time to replace cap and rotor. Also look to see how worn the contacts are. If they are rounded it is worn out.

87Tristar190
05-31-2013, 12:26 PM
Ok so I'll pull off the cap and see what it looks like. I don't have the tools at my disposal so I'm not going to attempt anything unless the points look rounded or corroded. If this is the case I guess I'll be making a trip to the store.

Unfortunately the closest mastercraft dealership to me is 3 hours away so it's not too easy to make parts runs. But hopefully between checking the points and the proper mixture on the carb I can get it to stop cutting out when put into gear.

How long of a job is it to install the electronic ignition? I know that it depends largely on the knowledge of the person doing it but I have read a few threads where people said they would wait to the off season to install it. That would lead me to believe it's a pretty big job.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-31-2013, 12:40 PM
Do not do anything to the points. Any removal of material will change your point gap significantly and you may not run at all. You can look at the surface of the points to inspect for wear. Points are not a Mastercraft or marine specific part and are available at a local parts store.

The place to remove any crud would be the contacts inside the distributor cap and the end of the rotor.

Installing electronic ignition is a rather simple process and will only take an hour from start to finish. It it just a matter of removing a couple screws and pulling the points, condensor and wiring out and installing the new ignition in it's place. If you did a second boat right after doing yours, you could do it in 15 minutes flat. You would need to obtain a timing light to verify that the timing hasn't changed during installation.

87Tristar190
05-31-2013, 12:57 PM
Thanks for the quick response. I would have been pretty upset if I did something stupid that caused my boat to stop running.

I think I'm going to order the electronic ignition and next time I have a rainy weekend I'll pull the boat out and install it.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-31-2013, 01:02 PM
I went with the Pertronix Ignitor II and Flamethrower II coil. I purchased through Amazon and saved enough money with their pricing to upgrade from the Base Ignitor and Flamethrower. I have been extremely happy with the ease of starting and performance gain.

http://www.pertronix.com/

Jaxon4
05-31-2013, 01:51 PM
Any suggestions on what plugs to use? Just incase the ones in there aren't correct?

my 89 Tristar uses Autolite 24..just changed mine...needed a 5/8" boxwrench..took 10 minutes

chriscraftmatt1976
05-31-2013, 02:11 PM
Well, how about we all teach best practices rather then shade tree stuff? If something needs correcting it needs correcting whether it be the internet or otherwise. If there is a correct way to do something then lets as a group do that.

What is typically? If that lean condition is caused by a vacuum leak and you richen the mixture or turn up the idle what does that accomplish?

lol. that IS the correct way.

However, I've rebuilt carbs a ton, and never had to resort to it. just sayin. if you think cert mechanics are doing all that to adjust your carb, you're kidding yourself. Just rebuilt my carb last year, set um at 1 1/2, did a small amount of adjustment while running, and they're perfect.

If you're a little green behind the gills and can't get it right by feel, that's a good alternitive though.

CantRepeat
05-31-2013, 03:11 PM
lol. that IS the correct way.

However, I've rebuilt carbs a ton, and never had to resort to it. just sayin. if you think cert mechanics are doing all that to adjust your carb, you're kidding yourself. Just rebuilt my carb last year, set um at 1 1/2, did a small amount of adjustment while running, and they're perfect.

If you're a little green behind the gills and can't get it right by feel, that's a good alternitive though.

If you are happy setting them to 1 1/2 and calling it good, more power to you. I highly doubt you could be dead on without using the correct tools.

Moreover, remember who your audience is here. It's pretty safe to say that most of the people on this forum do not possess the skills to just wing it like that. So rather then just teaching the wrong way why not give them the information and correct way to accomplish the task.

Finally, I don't have to take anything to a certified mechanic and you have given me more reason not to. I'm more then capable of working on my boats and doing it the correct way and wouldn't consider your post any reason to stop. As you said it IS the correct way.

The alternative to the correct way is to try and get it close by ear.

87Tristar190
06-04-2013, 12:06 PM
I went out in the boat this weekend and noticed a few issues. My idle in gear is set at about 500-550 rpm's in gear and about 900-1000 rpm's in neutral. I attempted to adjust the idle up a hair but the idle adjustment screw was already all the way in. I wasn't 100% but I'm assuming the idle adjustment screw is the large flat head screw on the passenger side of the carb nere the throttle cable that has the spring under it. So I wasn't able to adjust this at all.

My next thought was that maybe the shaft was binding a bit. So I turned the boat off and jumped in the water. I was able to turn it with a finger or two but it didn't spin very freely and seemed to stick. Could this be the shaft packing being too tight?

I also pulled the top off the carb and looked at the flame arrester. It looked a little dirty but not to bad. Then when I took it off I noticed a little black stuff on top of the butterfly valve covering the second two barrels of the carb. I'm assuming that this is a pretty good indication of the carb being dirty and needing to be cleaned.

I'm going to pull the boat out this week and get the carb cleaned. Any suggestions on where to start with the shaft? When I spin it there arn't any spots where it sticks, so I'm thinking it's aligned pretty good and it might just be the packing nut is too tight.

87Tristar190
06-20-2013, 03:07 PM
I know it's been a while since I last posted but I wanted to thank everyone again for all the help with this issue. I ended up ordering a carb rebuild kit and the electronic ignition conversion from skidim.com. I'm going to attempt it all this weekend. I have never done either before and only have small engine experience so it should be interesting.

87Tristar190
06-20-2013, 04:42 PM
I assumed I had a Holley 4010 carb because the previous owner told me the boat was damn near 100% factory. But I just started looking at exploded images of this carb and the 4060 on Holley's website and the 4060 looks more like mine than the 4010. I already ordered the 4010 rebuild kit from skidim so I'm hoping I didn't screw this up.

97178

97179

97180

thatsmrmastercraft
06-20-2013, 04:45 PM
It looks like a 4160 to me. I can't tell from the pics, but if it has a dual fuel inlet it's a 4010 and if a single fuel inlet it's a 4160.

pkskier
06-20-2013, 04:51 PM
Looks like a 4160 to me and on my '87 TriStar a 4160 was original equipment.

87Tristar190
06-20-2013, 04:51 PM
It had 1 fuel line going into the forward bowl and then a steel line going from the front bowl to the rear bowl. Thats what I thought after digging around on the Holly website. Well I guess the good news is that I have the better of the two bowls. The bad news is that I won't have the rebuild kit intime to get the boat on the water this weekend.

Thanks again for all the help.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-20-2013, 04:59 PM
To get the correct marine rebuild kit, go to the Holley website and look up the carb number that is stamped into the airhorn. As much as I like SKIDIM, you can save some money by ordering through Amazon.

87Tristar190
06-20-2013, 05:02 PM
Now that I know how to do the pictures I'll show you guys what I have been working on. I bought this boat in rough shape this past winter and have since completely gutted it and am now almost done rebuilding it. All that's left is to get the carb straightened out and a few other minor loose ends.

So far I have added a Kenwood deck, Alpine amp, 4 Alpine 7" speakers, DIY tower and double wakeboard racks, Kicker 6.5" tower speakers (going on this weekend), Acme 913 prop, Hawkey depth finder with water and air temp gauges, reupholstered all the seats and engine cover (almost done), replaced center sections of floor due to rot, carpeted interior, added interior red LED lights all around, dual battery set up behind rear bench.

97186

97187

87Tristar190
06-20-2013, 05:04 PM
ok thanks again for the help. I'm sure once I get the correct rebuild kit in I'll be back with more questions.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-20-2013, 05:08 PM
Sounds like you have been busy. Looking good. Glad you figured out the picture thing. Don't hold back now.

And there are plenty of people around here to answer questions. Sounds like you have learned enough to answer a handful of questions yourself.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
06-20-2013, 05:21 PM
Now that I know how to do the pictures I'll show you guys what I have been working on. I bought this boat in rough shape this past winter and have since completely gutted it and am now almost done rebuilding it. All that's left is to get the carb straightened out and a few other minor loose ends.

So far I have added a Kenwood deck, Alpine amp, 4 Alpine 7" speakers, DIY tower and double wakeboard racks, Kicker 6.5" tower speakers (going on this weekend), Acme 913 prop, Hawkey depth finder with water and air temp gauges, reupholstered all the seats and engine cover (almost done), replaced center sections of floor due to rot, carpeted interior, added interior red LED lights all around, dual battery set up behind rear bench.

97186

97187

Looks cold there, brrrr
Why did you decide to go with the acme 913, 13x10.5 prop, are you planning on slamming it with a ton of ballast?

87Tristar190
06-21-2013, 11:35 AM
Mr.Mastercraft , I have learned a lot for this forum and have actually gotten a lot of info from you that you have posted on other threads about similar topics. Thanks again for taking the time to help. It's been a steep learning curve but I'm getting there. Next big step is learning how to set timing.

J Mccreight, The gutted picture was from this past March when I bought the boat. It's funny, I *****ed non stop about working in the cold, but now thats its warm I wish I had worked harder and more often so it was completed by now. I went with the 913 because we usually have about 5-8 people on the boat every weekend and when we have less I'm running 2 - 550lb bags in the boat. The factory prop did alright even with the ballast and 7 people but I wanted to get a more aggressive prop to reduce the wear and tear on the 26 year old motor.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-21-2013, 12:04 PM
Mr.Mastercraft , I have learned a lot for this forum and have actually gotten a lot of info from you that you have posted on other threads about similar topics. Thanks again for taking the time to help. It's been a steep learning curve but I'm getting there. Next big step is learning how to set timing.

J Mccreight, The gutted picture was from this past March when I bought the boat. It's funny, I *****ed non stop about working in the cold, but now thats its warm I wish I had worked harder and more often so it was completed by now. I went with the 913 because we usually have about 5-8 people on the boat every weekend and when we have less I'm running 2 - 550lb bags in the boat. The factory prop did alright even with the ballast and 7 people but I wanted to get a more aggressive prop to reduce the wear and tear on the 26 year old motor.

When I got my '77 I had lots of boat and automotive engine experience, but had never even been in an inboard. I learned most everything I know related to inboards from this forum. There was an individual, who is no longer active here, who helped me a lot. When I offered to pay him back, he said to learn as much as I could and pass it forward to the new guys here. It helps feed my MCOCD too.

87Tristar190
06-21-2013, 12:23 PM
Thats great that you keep up with this forum and do your part in passing along knowledge. You see a lot of people come on here looking for information but it seems it's always the same few answering the questions. Hopefully by the time I'm done with my boat I'll be able to begin answering a few of the basic questions on here.

87Tristar190
07-03-2013, 01:53 PM
Well I got the proper Carb rebuild kit and was up until 3am putting the carb back together last night. The directions were poor at best though so I have no idea if I did it right. With any luck I drop it in and it fires right up and runs smooth. I also have the electronic ignition conversion kit to install but I'm going to hold off on that until I know the carb is functioning properly. With any luck I'll be on the lake wakeboarding all day tomorrow.

87Tristar190
07-15-2013, 11:02 AM
Well the Carb is back in the boat and is running good but now another few problems have surfaced. The first one is that if I run the boat at ski speeds, low to mid 30's, it runs great for a minute or so and then boggs way down. When this happens I bring the throttle back to just into gear and the engine will idle fine. It's obviously a lack of fuel issue. The issue has gotten worse and happens quicker with every outting. I'm thinking its a fuel pump. Any other thoughts on this?

My other issue is the starter hasn't been working properly. But thats pretty straight forward, I'm just going to replace it.

pkskier
07-15-2013, 12:10 PM
Sounds like the same problem I had last spring. The ethanol in the gas softens the fuel line and at higher RPMs the fuel pump collapse the line from the tank to the fuel pump. Replace that fuel line and it should fix the problem. This year I had my starter rebuilt, works great like a new one and cost $35.

87Tristar190
07-15-2013, 12:20 PM
ok thanks. I'll check that out before replacing the fuel pump.

Unfortunately I don't have time to wait for a starter rebuild right now. I have a vacation that I'm bringing the boat on in 3 days. I'll probably just have a new starter next dayed.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-15-2013, 12:43 PM
ok thanks. I'll check that out before replacing the fuel pump.

Unfortunately I don't have time to wait for a starter rebuild right now. I have a vacation that I'm bringing the boat on in 3 days. I'll probably just have a new starter next dayed.

Just put an Arco starter in my boat...........what a huge difference. I thought my boat started quickly after I installed the Ingnitor II ignition and Flamethrower II coil last year. Now the starter is more like an "on" switch.

87Tristar190
07-15-2013, 02:21 PM
Does anyone know what starter I would need for an 87?

MikeyOrange88
07-15-2013, 04:56 PM
It must be starter season this week as I've replied to several queries today already.

I just replaced my starter (and several others on TT also) with the Arco Gear Reduction Starter, Model No. 70200 (CW), for my '88 Tristar. You'll love it. Link is to a helpful page from Arco on the whole CW/CCW thing, but their website has a lot of other info as well.
http://www.arcomarine.com/xhtml/tech%20determine%20marine%20starter%20rotation.pdf
I found one for about $125 online a few months back. Several online places carry them.

If you're unsure that it is indeed the problem, I would still remove it and have an auto parts store bench test it. If it fails, just pick it up, go home, and order the Arco unit online.

87Tristar190
07-15-2013, 05:10 PM
Thank you. I just ordered it for $120 from Boatersland.com

I would have waited to get it tested but I'm going up to the lake Thursday morning for 5 days and couldn't wait to do things the right way.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-15-2013, 05:17 PM
Thank you. I just ordered it for $120 from Boatersland.com

I would have waited to get it tested but I'm going up to the lake Thursday morning for 5 days and couldn't wait to do things the right way.

You won't regret this purchase.

87Tristar190
07-15-2013, 05:21 PM
Thanks again for all the help. This website and the people on it are an unbelievable resource!!!!

Are fuel pumps a little more universal? If it ends up that it's not the fuel line from the tank to the pump caving in on itself and I have to replace the pump is that something that I should be able to find locally at an autozone or something?


I don't have any mastercraft dealers anywhere near me. All I have is a small seadoo dealer and then another place that does Bayliner and Supra.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-15-2013, 05:47 PM
The fuel pump is a marine specific item and may be hard to source. This may ba available at Napa but I don't know that. SKIDIM is a standard resource when time is on your side.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA080002A

MikeyOrange88
07-15-2013, 11:17 PM
Are fuel pumps a little more universal? If it ends up that it's not the fuel line from the tank to the pump caving in on itself and I have to replace the pump is that something that I should be able to find locally at an autozone or something?

While your into the fuel system, might as well replace all of the fuel filters. There is a screen at the bottom of the pickup in the tank, a fuel/water separator (starboard side of bilge), small one in the bottom of the fuel pump (Napa #3943), and a screen right at the carb fitting.

Good luck.

87Tristar190
08-06-2013, 10:52 AM
So after rebuilding the carb, replacing the hard line from the fuel pump to the carb, replacing the fuel pump, replacing the water seperater, replacing all the soft lines I figure out what the problem was. The pick up had no screen on the bottom of it and the anti-siphon valve was so filled with junk that I couldn't even blow air through it. I picked up a new one but haven't had a chance to get the boat back in the water to test it out.

thatsmrmastercraft
08-06-2013, 10:53 AM
So after rebuilding the carb, replacing the hard line from the fuel pump to the carb, replacing the fuel pump, replacing the water seperater, replacing all the soft lines I figure out what the problem was. The pick up had no screen on the bottom of it and the anti-siphon valve was so filled with junk that I couldn't even blow air through it. I picked up a new one but haven't had a chance to get the boat back in the water to test it out.

On the bright side, you fuel system is clean as a whistle. :rolleyes:

87Tristar190
08-06-2013, 10:56 AM
haha yea but if I had taken it to a marina they probably would have charged me as much to diagnose the problem as it cost me to just start replacing things. Or at least this is what I tell myself to feel a little better about it.

Any tricks for getting a prop off without a puller?

thatsmrmastercraft
08-06-2013, 11:04 AM
haha yea but if I had taken it to a marina they probably would have charged me as much to diagnose the problem as it cost me to just start replacing things. Or at least this is what I tell myself to feel a little better about it.

Any tricks for getting a prop off without a puller?

While apparently unnecessary at the time, what you have replaced in the fuel system are all things that would need doing anyway. Think of it as proactive work.

No advice on the prop. Never had mine off.

87Tristar190
08-06-2013, 11:17 AM
Not the best picture, but you can see the amount of junk in there. I was suprised because I pulled the tank and did a pretty thorough flush on it before I ever put the boat in the water.

98939

thatsmrmastercraft
08-06-2013, 11:26 AM
Not the best picture, but you can see the amount of junk in there. I was suprised because I pulled the tank and did a pretty thorough flush on it before I ever put the boat in the water.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=98939&d=1375798546
98939

Wow, that is full of crud. :eek:

87Tristar190
08-06-2013, 11:31 AM
yea it was pretty bad. The entire thing was packed full. I have no idea how it was even running.

thatsmrmastercraft
08-06-2013, 11:35 AM
You wouldn't think it could.

chriscraftmatt1976
08-06-2013, 12:12 PM
On the prop, I'd invest in a puller. Much easier. I think there's one on eBay right now.

cbryan70
08-06-2013, 12:16 PM
loosen the nut, get a peice of wood behind it and take a hammer to it. Sometimes you have to heat the shaft.