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View Full Version : 2012 X30 1100 rear lockers


KahunaCraft
05-17-2013, 09:39 PM
I added these and fill with a hard plumbed super Sacr and a for future use, also plumbed piggy back on the hard tank.

I'm still working on dialling it in will post wave with rider pics tomorrow.

CantRepeat
05-18-2013, 09:31 AM
Do you have any weight up front? If so I would suggest lowering the amount you do have. I think you'll get a better curl and a bit more push.

KahunaCraft
05-20-2013, 08:13 AM
Not much up front. Still making small adjustments in speed with all the weight in the rear corner and under port or sb bench. Perfect pass seems pretty stable with CS 750, KDW 180 and NN 120.

Seano
10-01-2013, 11:26 PM
I added these and fill with a hard plumbed super Sacr and a for future use, also plumbed piggy back on the hard tank.

I'm still working on dialling it in will post wave with rider pics tomorrow.

So is the 1100 sac a good fit or should i stick with the 900's?

501s
10-01-2013, 11:38 PM
I have 750s in the rear and when full, there isn't too much extra room, but if I was doing it again Id go with bigger bags.

KahunaCraft
10-02-2013, 06:09 AM
I'd go 1100's again. However a few tips...

1. Reinforce the locker panel that sits between the engine and the bag. When filling the surf side 100% and then the opposite side at 50-70% there is a fair amount of flex in the panel.

- the little U shaped aluminum channel that has only on screw in it needs a second screw to help it avoid spinning out of place and subsequently the bag and panel could find their way into the engine compartment.

- I plan to add more strength to the panel and the supporting structures down the road.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=55188

2. Consider that newer bags (Ronix 8.3) that may let you transfer water faster from one side to the other.

3. It is the end of year and if you can wait, you might find that newer tech and better pumps requiring bag upgrades may become avail or at a minimum a better price. I only have the proof from last winter, where there was a lot of innovation launched and I think there is a ton of room for improvement this year. Also, MC's new catalogue states 500% faster pumps... Not sure if that includes better sacs?

4. With the current bag tech, I'm considering buying a transfer pump to help with moving water around from bag to bag.

Seano
12-01-2013, 10:49 AM
I'd go 1100's again. However a few tips...

1. Reinforce the locker panel that sits between the engine and the bag. When filling the surf side 100% and then the opposite side at 50-70% there is a fair amount of flex in the panel.

- the little U shaped aluminum channel that has only on screw in it needs a second screw to help it avoid spinning out of place and subsequently the bag and panel could find their way into the engine compartment.

- I plan to add more strength to the panel and the supporting structures down the road.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=55188

2. Consider that newer bags (Ronix 8.3) that may let you transfer water faster from one side to mthe other.

3. It is the end of year and if you can wait, you might find that newer tech and better pumps requiring bag upgrades may become avail or at a minimum a better price. I only have the proof from last winter, where there was a lot of innovation launched and I think there is a ton of room for improvement this year. Also, MC's new catalogue states 500% faster pumps... Not sure if that includes better sacs?

4. With the current bag tech, I'm considering buying a transfer pump to help with moving water around from bag to bag.

Thanks for the help, I think I will go for the 1100's as well, any suggestions on material to reinforce the plastic engine wall? Thinking of an aluminum angle iron so corrosion will not be an issue, or perhaps square tubing might look better. Also what other spots of reinforcement do u think it needs?

Stefan
12-01-2013, 12:34 PM
I did a welded diagonal aluminium cross of 20mmx30mm aluminum profiles that stretch all the way into the corners of the panel that splits the compartments, bolted onto the enginge side with a couple of screws. Not much more than that though, thought about a full length u-profile on the bottom at first but in the X-15 the panel sits fine behind the small panels in front and rear of it.

jradasaurus
12-01-2013, 12:41 PM
I did a welded diagonal aluminium cross of 20mmx30mm aluminum profiles that stretch all the way into the corners of the panel that splits the compartments, bolted onto the enginge side with a couple of screws.

Could you take a few pictures of this or describe it more? I'm considering doing the same. How did you bolt it to the flooring? Are the two welded aluminum parts square? .. and are they interlocked at the center or just welded side by side?

KahunaCraft
12-01-2013, 02:42 PM
Here is another thread on it...

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=48062

I've ask my dealer and they mentioned that the 2014's have some improvements... I think that lengths of aluminium T or channel across the bottom and middle sections would help.

It's a next year project for me.

Stefan
12-01-2013, 04:27 PM
Could you take a few pictures of this or describe it more? I'm considering doing the same. How did you bolt it to the flooring? Are the two welded aluminum parts square? .. and are they interlocked at the center or just welded side by side?

Not easy as its hidden under some noise dampening material, I'll try though in a couple of days. It's a cross welded together at the center, one beam going diagonal from one corner to the opposite and two half beams welded to it at about 90degrees in the middle, going to the other two corners. All of it screwed to the dividing wall on the engine side. No reinforcements on th boat floor nessecary in my case (2012 X-15). I thought of a full U-type profile from front to back in the opening, not just the small original brackets that Kahuna mentioned, but never looked like it's really needed

jradasaurus
12-01-2013, 08:14 PM
Thanks, definitely a project for the spring.