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hig
05-17-2013, 12:21 PM
I just purchased a 1998 Maristar 200 VRS that need the motor rebuilt (spun bearings) and a good sprucing up. I currently have a 1996 Bayliner 120 h.p. outboard that I’ve had for years. As I get order and have a hard time losing the extra winter weight I put on it’s hard to get out of the water on my slalom ski behind the Bayliner. This is my first inboard so I have much to learn!

This years To Do list:

- Rebuild the 5.7 Corvette LT1 short block and resurface the aluminum heads

- Any maintenance/service that should be done while the motor is out of the boat (trans seals, raw water impeller) anything that would be easy to get at while the motor is out, advice needed!!

- Wet sand, buff and wax the boat

- Apply new decals – probably swap the Maristar with the Mastercraft on the sides

- Clean the vinyl interior and apply protectant

- Replace the rubber rub rail molding

- Replace the broken cup holders & worn grab handles

- Recover the “wood grain” dash bezel with 3M vinyl and install new shift knob & steering wheel

- Refinish the teak ski platform

- Clean and tighten the mooring cover


Future To Do list:

- Replace the carpet

- Add wakeboard tower

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130505_155407_zps37ab6b59.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130505_155407_zps37ab6b59.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130505_155524_zps1b7de070.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130505_155524_zps1b7de070.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130505_154459_zpsf00e0db3.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130505_154459_zpsf00e0db3.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130504_190854_zps2a63759d.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130504_190854_zps2a63759d.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130505_190010_zps8d5988ca.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130505_190010_zps8d5988ca.jpg.html)

If anyone has any input (advice or a relevant threads) please post it and I will read up on it. I will try to ask and show progress in individual post in this thread.
I have a few other projects to finish up before I get fully committed to working on the boat so progress will be slow to begin with but I hope to get in in the water this summer.

Thanks and wish me luck!!
Steve

FrankSchwab
05-17-2013, 01:08 PM
Good choice of boats!

I don't have any suggestions for further improvements; you seem to have them covered. I'll follow the thread, and feel free to ask any questions. I've done a lot of work on mine, and I can take pictures of things that you forget how to put back together ;)

SP Maristar
05-17-2013, 01:57 PM
I agree with Frank on hour choice of boats! We own the exact same boat in Polo Green. Find MaristarMan's post with tons of pictures. It was very helpful to me. Let me know if you need reference pics of anything. Our boat is bone stock and in great condition. Good luck!

hig
05-17-2013, 09:00 PM
Good choice of boats!

I don't have any suggestions for further improvements; you seem to have them covered. I'll follow the thread, and feel free to ask any questions. I've done a lot of work on mine, and I can take pictures of things that you forget how to put back together ;)

I agree with Frank on hour choice of boats! We own the exact same boat in Polo Green. Find MaristarMan's post with tons of pictures. It was very helpful to me. Let me know if you need reference pics of anything. Our boat is bone stock and in great condition. Good luck!

Thank you for the offers to answer question and sending reference pics, that will help a lot. I am a bit nervous because the motor was pulled out of the boat before I purchased it so I will definitely need some reference pics!!

I've saved these threads for future reference but I know there will be details I'll need.

LT-1 lets see some pics!

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=44942

Hogwild's Adventure

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=50918

There's a lot of good references in those 2 threads!!

MaristarMan's thread was one of the first ones I found, there's a lot of info there.

MariStar-Man's Chronicles with Tons of Pics

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=31944

I can't say that I've read the whole thing but I have scanned thru it a couple of times. ;) One thing I did learn from his thread is to not put the trans in gear while it is out of the water because there is no lubrication on the prop shaft, I probably would not have thought of that.

I've also looked thru this one a few times,

The MariStar Thread

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=29467

I can't wait to start working on the boat!!

Thanks again, Steve

FrankSchwab
05-17-2013, 11:00 PM
So, now that I have a few minutes, things to do:
1. Check the transmission cooler for leaks. You don't want to start dumping water into the pristine transmission fluid (you are going to change it, aren't you?
2. When you get the engine back in, I'd do a full propshaft alignment. Doc is attached.
3. You might want to do the fuel filler neck grounding modification. Doc is attached.
4. You can decide whether to run ATF or 15w-40 in the transmission, especially since you should go ahead and change the fluid at this point. The Indmar service note is attached.
5. When you do the propshaft alignment, I'd go ahead and change the packing. This (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box) is a good tutorial.
6. The LT1 marine thermostats (2) are special, and there's a specific method for "burping" the engine when you put everything back together. I don't have one, but you should be able to search and find it.
7. Check the prop and make sure it's in good shape.
8. Grease everything that needs greasing.
9. Check the steering - if you can't steer it on the trailer with a finger, you may want to consider putting in a new cable. If you can't steer it easily with one hand, you DEFINITELY should put on a new cable.
10. Check the fuel gauge. The fuel senders on this year have a tendency to fail. You can repair it (search for "fuel sender magnet"), or get a new one. I bought one from Wema, and am quite happy with the design and functioning.
11. Check the depth gauge - you won't be able to measure depth unless the boat is in the water, but you can check to verify that the puck is firmly epoxied to the hull. Oops, I just noticed in your picture that you have a clock where I have a depth gauge.
12. You need a good gelcoat restoration. I'd try compounding before wet sanding, but that's just me. This thread (http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=45534) has a good overview of gel coat restoration.
13. Here's (http://aplusmobilegraphics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=114) a good source for replacement panels for the dash. I bookmarked them long ago, but never actually bought anything.
14. The only issue I've run across on the boat is that passengers tend to hit the back of their head on the windshield when sitting. Warn your wife/gf.
15. Verify that the bilge pump works. If it sounds bad, replace it.
16. Verify that the blower works. If it sounds bad, replace it.

That should keep you busy until, say, the lakes freeze over again...

/frank

FrankSchwab
05-17-2013, 11:09 PM
And, missed one additional bit of info. A bunch of things I've collected about the boat/trailer while doing maintenance. I don't think the engine stuff (oil filters, belts, etc) will help, but maybe.

/frank

And some pictures...

SP Maristar
05-18-2013, 12:17 AM
Frank - you even appear to have the same depth finder as me! Haha

hig
05-19-2013, 08:58 PM
So, now that I have a few minutes, things to do:
1. Check the transmission cooler for leaks. You don't want to start dumping water into the pristine transmission fluid (you are going to change it, aren't you?
2. When you get the engine back in, I'd do a full propshaft alignment. Doc is attached.
3. You might want to do the fuel filler neck grounding modification. Doc is attached.
4. You can decide whether to run ATF or 15w-40 in the transmission, especially since you should go ahead and change the fluid at this point. The Indmar service note is attached.
5. When you do the propshaft alignment, I'd go ahead and change the packing. This (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box) is a good tutorial.
6. The LT1 marine thermostats (2) are special, and there's a specific method for "burping" the engine when you put everything back together. I don't have one, but you should be able to search and find it.
7. Check the prop and make sure it's in good shape.
8. Grease everything that needs greasing.
9. Check the steering - if you can't steer it on the trailer with a finger, you may want to consider putting in a new cable. If you can't steer it easily with one hand, you DEFINITELY should put on a new cable.
10. Check the fuel gauge. The fuel senders on this year have a tendency to fail. You can repair it (search for "fuel sender magnet"), or get a new one. I bought one from Wema, and am quite happy with the design and functioning.
11. Check the depth gauge - you won't be able to measure depth unless the boat is in the water, but you can check to verify that the puck is firmly epoxied to the hull. Oops, I just noticed in your picture that you have a clock where I have a depth gauge.
12. You need a good gelcoat restoration. I'd try compounding before wet sanding, but that's just me. This thread (http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=45534) has a good overview of gel coat restoration.
13. Here's (http://aplusmobilegraphics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=114) a good source for replacement panels for the dash. I bookmarked them long ago, but never actually bought anything.
14. The only issue I've run across on the boat is that passengers tend to hit the back of their head on the windshield when sitting. Warn your wife/gf.
15. Verify that the bilge pump works. If it sounds bad, replace it.
16. Verify that the blower works. If it sounds bad, replace it.

That should keep you busy until, say, the lakes freeze over again...

/frank

Thanks Frank, that is a great maintenance To Do list!!

What is the best way to check the transmission cooler for leaks? Is it basically a tube heat exchanger?

I will read up on ATF vs. motor oil. How can I tell what transmission I have?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130519_182447_zps0686de1b.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130519_182447_zps0686de1b.jpg.html)

I will read thru the maintenance that you suggested and I know I will have more questions.

Thanks, Steve

hig
05-19-2013, 09:01 PM
What is this thing? It's inline before the transmission cooler?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130519_182537_zps84f00f16.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130519_182537_zps84f00f16.jpg.html)

Does it require maintenance? Should the bottom bowl be replaced?

Thanks, Steve

hig
05-19-2013, 09:07 PM
My boys and I finished stripped the motor down to send to the machine shop.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130519_192952_zps0962f62d.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130519_192952_zps0962f62d.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130519_193657_zps29ab6a38.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130519_193657_zps29ab6a38.jpg.html)

I will be dropping off the block, pistons & rods, crank and aluminum heads off tomorrow after work. I know I will have to have the block line bored, crank turned (hopefully salvageable), cylinders hones and heads resurfaced.

Hopefully this week I can start cleaning the boat up!!

FrankSchwab
05-19-2013, 09:10 PM
That is an inline strainer - it's supposed to stop crap in the water from clogging up your transmission cooler. The bottom unscrews, the screen comes out, and you can empty whatever organic material has accumulated.

There's a tag on the transmission that identifies it - I think our boats have a 630v. Look at the backside of the transmission under the center rear seat (pull out the insert under the seat).

Checking the transmission cooler is a bit difficult - it's just a heat exchanger, so if you can pressurize one side or the other you can check for a leak.

SP Maristar
05-19-2013, 09:34 PM
My trans sticker is nearly impossible to read but here it is. 95254

SP Maristar
05-19-2013, 09:36 PM
I don't have a strainer before my trans cooler but I used needle nose pliers to successfully remove grass and other debris from the inlet.

hig
05-20-2013, 12:06 PM
I posted a question on the correct head gaskets to use in the Engine/Drive Train section if anyone is interested.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?p=937334#post937334

Steve

hig
05-20-2013, 12:39 PM
I was wondering what specialty tools are helpful while working on an inboard.

I will be test running the boat before I put it in the water, what is the best way to run it?

Should I just pull the raw water inlet line off and stick a garden hose in it?

Should I make something like this:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/HPIM4028_zps09d911b5.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/HPIM4028_zps09d911b5.jpg.html)

or should I buy something permanent like this:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/DSC01138_zps2abcf620.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/DSC01138_zps2abcf620.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/DSC01146_zps8a52d054.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/DSC01146_zps8a52d054.jpg.html)

Any suggestion on this or anything I should put on my wish list please let me know!!

Thanks, Steve

FrankSchwab
05-20-2013, 06:20 PM
Couldn't you ask a simple question, like "What's your favorite engine oil?".

As Thrall quotes in his posts: "I understand why some people may not want to do this the way I have recommended but I can't understand the death grip some people have on a toilet plunger with a hose fitting." -JimN

So, you can do what you've linked to - I have something similar on my boat from the PO, and it works well, but I worry about mechanical failure (i.e. the plastic breaking) causing engine damage someday while cruising down the lake.

You can use the fake-a-lake concept, where you attach the garden hose to what's essentially a toilet plunger, and attach it to the bottom of the boat (what JimN is referring to above). Simple, not quite idiot proof (it can dislodge from the water intake when you're not watching), and reasonably popular.

Others have removed the hose going into the raw water pump, and attached a new hose dropped into a 5-gallon bucket of water, normally kept full with the garden hose. At any engine speed above idle, you'll note that the garden hose does not keep up with the water sucked in by the raw water pump. The 5 gallon bucket assures that you can rev the engine (at least for a bit) without running it short of water.

If you want to reduce the mess, you can put a plastic kiddie pool under the exhausts to catch the water coming out of the engine, run the intake hose and garden hose into the kiddie pool also, and have a reasonably closed-loop cooling setup. I don't guarantee what happens when the water eventually heats up to 180 degrees, however. Having 20 or 30 gallons of boiling water sloshing through the garage might be a bit of a safety hazard if the pool collapses.

SP Maristar
05-20-2013, 07:51 PM
With my (and perhaps your) water intake grate directly over a bunk, the fake a lake is not an option. I used what the previous owner gave me which is a PVC barbed fitting that i attach to the water intake inside the boat with adapters down to a hose connection on the other end. I will try to take a picture tonight.

SP Maristar
05-20-2013, 08:32 PM
Here's mine. 95309

hig
05-20-2013, 09:32 PM
Couldn't you ask a simple question, like "What's your favorite engine oil?".



Okay, what's your favorite model Mastercraft?



So, you can do what you've linked to - I have something similar on my boat from the PO, and it works well, but I worry about mechanical failure (i.e. the plastic breaking) causing engine damage someday while cruising down the lake.



What do you mean by PO? I agree about the possibility of a mechanical failure, just one more thing to go wrong. Does it have any purpose in winterizing or is it just to be able to run the boat out of the water?



You can use the fake-a-lake concept, where you attach the garden hose to what's essentially a toilet plunger, and attach it to the bottom of the boat (what JimN is referring to above). Simple, not quite idiot proof (it can dislodge from the water intake when you're not watching), and reasonably popular.



To be honest I haven't checked but like "SP Maristar" said I think I've read it's under one of the bunks so the fake-a-lake won't work.



Others have removed the hose going into the raw water pump, and attached a new hose dropped into a 5-gallon bucket of water, normally kept full with the garden hose. At any engine speed above idle, you'll note that the garden hose does not keep up with the water sucked in by the raw water pump. The 5 gallon bucket assures that you can rev the engine (at least for a bit) without running it short of water.



That's interesting that the engine could be starved for cold water if feeding just by a garden hose. I might want to do this the first couple of times I start it after reinstalling the engine, just in case I need to run it for any length of time.



If you want to reduce the mess, you can put a plastic kiddie pool under the exhausts to catch the water coming out of the engine, run the intake hose and garden hose into the kiddie pool also, and have a reasonably closed-loop cooling setup. I don't guarantee what happens when the water eventually heats up to 180 degrees, however. Having 20 or 30 gallons of boiling water sloshing through the garage might be a bit of a safety hazard if the pool collapses.



That just sounds like trouble, anyways I have too much stuff in the garage to fit the boat!!

Is there any possibility of the transmission overheating with it in neutral since there's no cold water going to it.

Thanks for the information I appreciate it.
Steve

hig
05-20-2013, 09:34 PM
Here's mine. 95309

Thanks for the pic, simple but serves the purpose. Do you disconnect the water inlet right after the trans cooler or where do you install it?

Steve

SP Maristar
05-20-2013, 09:43 PM
I take mine loose at the pickup fitting at the bottom of the boat.

FrankSchwab
05-20-2013, 10:39 PM
I can't imagine a transmission heating issue with the boat in neutral - the heat in the transmission comes from the fact that there's 300 HP coming in from the engine, and only 299 horsepower leaving the transmission. Some amount of the power gets taken up by friction, etc., and turns into heat. No friction, no heat.

But, if you dump the water in before the cooler, like SP suggests, there won't be a problem.

BTW, PO means "Previous Owner" - the person who gets blamed for every bad thing that's ever happened to a MasterCraft.

I don't think the garden hose attachment is going to do anything for winterizing. Some use the 5-gallon bucket to suck RV antifreeze into the engine for winterizing, but that's about it.

/frank

SP Maristar
05-20-2013, 10:44 PM
In my case the PO was a total ace. Tidy. All maintenance done. Always garaged... I couldn't be happier.

Traxx822
05-21-2013, 11:37 AM
Hig, your post with all the links to the threads is the best I have seen on here. For me anyways. Thanks

hig
05-21-2013, 12:04 PM
Hig, your post with all the links to the threads is the best I have seen on here. For me anyways. Thanks

I'm glad you like it, when I was doing it I was thinking I hope it's not too much. I figured if this thread will help someones else also that would be great - plus it's a quick reference for me.

Steve

hig
05-23-2013, 08:48 PM
9. Check the steering - if you can't steer it on the trailer with a finger, you may want to consider putting in a new cable. If you can't steer it easily with one hand, you DEFINITELY should put on a new cable.

/frank

I checked tonight and I can turn the steering wheel with 1 finger!!!

hig
05-23-2013, 08:51 PM
What is the lever for next to the bilge pump?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130523_184016_zps780b0e3f.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130523_184016_zps780b0e3f.jpg.html)

Thanks, Steve

Jerseydave
05-23-2013, 09:08 PM
HI and welcome!

I think you're talking about the T-handle hull drain plug? All inboards/V-drives have them.

Jerseydave
05-23-2013, 09:09 PM
BTW, where in the Northeast are you?

hig
05-23-2013, 09:15 PM
Is Mobil Delvac the same as Rotella diesel oil? I hear a lot about Rotella but AutoZone has Delvan 15W-40 on sale for $12.99 until Monday, regularly $17.99 for a gallon.

Can I use diesel oil in the V-drive transmission or should I use regular 15W-40?

What is the differences between diesel oil and regular oil? Does Diesel have more zinc in it? Is diesel oil non detergent, and if so what does that mean.

Thanks, Steve

hig
05-23-2013, 09:17 PM
BTW, where in the Northeast are you?

Central NY.

hig
05-23-2013, 09:19 PM
HI and welcome!

I think you're talking about the T-handle hull drain plug? All inboards/V-drives have them.

Thank you for the welcome!!

Oh, so that plug unscrews? I assumed the handle pulled up.

Thanks!!

Jerseydave
05-23-2013, 09:36 PM
Thank you for the welcome!!

Oh, so that plug unscrews? I assumed the handle pulled up.

Thanks!!

Yes it unscrews. You most likely will use this to drain your hull after loading the boat on the trailer. If you have another drain plug at the transom you can drain from that as well, but I always use just the center T-drain plug.

hig
05-24-2013, 12:21 PM
Can I assume I have the 630V transmission?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130523_183308_zpsd5880c15.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130523_183308_zpsd5880c15.jpg.html)

It looks like there is a drain plug on the side of the transmission, can I drain it there? I realize I just have to be careful and not spill the ATF all over the place. The transfer pump I picked up looks like it has different sized rubber plugs I can stick in the drain hole after I pull the plug so hopefully I can catch most of it that way.

I plan on using 15W-40 motor oil, should I change it to motor oil, run it a little then change it again or won't it matter if it's mixed?

Thanks, Steve

FrankSchwab
05-24-2013, 01:22 PM
I'm pretty sure that it's a 630V (been a long time since I looked at mine), but if you fold down that little flap of metal after the "HSW" in the model name, it'll be clear.

The Hurth Trans Noise service advisory I linked above suggests simply sucking out what you can, and calling it good when you convert "It is not necessary to flush the transmission, just get as much of the old fluid out as possible."

Delvac and Rotella are both fine oils; I'd buy whichever one is on sale. Both have the automobile rating called for by Indmar, so they're acceptable for use in the engine/trans. In general, the diesel oils are seen as being of higher quality than auto oils. For example, they had higher levels of zinc anti-wear additive for a lot of years, because in a car the zinc additive tends to degrade the catalytic converter over time which isn't a concern in a diesel. I believe both Rotella and Delvac reduced zinc levels a few years ago, so that may not be an advantage any more. They're also used in the heavy use, high power environment of over-the-road truckers where things like engine wear are tracked, so there's more incentive to keep quality high than in the auto market, where sales are driven by how much is spent on TV commercials rather than maintenance records. It's not clear if this is really true, but it makes me feel better so I use the diesel oils.

hig
05-26-2013, 10:02 PM
I actually made some progress today. I've been working on cleaning the interior, it's coming out okay. I have what I think is mold spots that will not come out. I've tried Totally Awesome, 303 and bleach on the back seat that I removed but I've had very little luck removing the spots.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130525_195248_zpsdde9b978.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130525_195248_zpsdde9b978.jpg.html)

Does anyone have any recommendations?

I started wet sanding then buffing the back of the boat, that is coming out very good. It's taking a lot of time but it's getting better. I'm sanding with 600, 1000, 1500 grit then buffing with 3M compounds.

I used my power washer to remove the rear Mastercraft sticker then took WD-40 to get the remaining adhesive off, that worked well.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130526_162804_zps3e865879.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130526_162804_zps3e865879.jpg.html)

Here is a picture of above the rub rail sanded.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130526_172001_zpsef55cbc8.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130526_172001_zpsef55cbc8.jpg.html)

I hope it's worth it, I drilled out the rivets that hold the cover snaps on so I did have to sand and buff around them.

Buffed and waxed!!!

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130526_184156_zps80aa8f5a.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130526_184156_zps80aa8f5a.jpg.html)

Here I have the bottom sanded, it's ready to be buffed.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130526_193157_zps37ef948f.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130526_193157_zps37ef948f.jpg.html)

I used blue painters tape to protect the rub rail while buffing, it took a lot to get down in those corners by the rail.

I also pulled the dash out so I can figure out how I'm going to wrap it. I'm think about going with this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/15in-x-12in-3M-DI-NOC-Bubinga-Gloss-WoodGrain-Vinyl-Car-Vehicle-Wrap-Decal-Film-/321132080970?vxp=mtr

Steve

SP Maristar
05-26-2013, 10:58 PM
Your buffin and waxin is looking good. Nice job!

hig
06-02-2013, 09:33 PM
Well I made some progress during the week and yesterday. I was able to remove the stickers, buff and wax the port side.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130602_165019_zps95df43a7.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130602_165019_zps95df43a7.jpg.html)

I also finished the lower rear section of the boat.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130602_071639_zps874f49f9.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130602_071639_zps874f49f9.jpg.html)

Today I removed the starboard stickers and buffed above the rub rail.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130602_163827_zpsff9d2a4d.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130602_163827_zpsff9d2a4d.jpg.html)

When I removed the port side rear "Mastercraft" sticker I used a heat gun and my fingers to scrape and peel the sticker, that worked okay but when I tried the Maristar one I was not having much luck. I tried a plastic wedge tool I have but as soon as it got warm it bent. I had an idea to sharpen a paint stir stick and that worked very well!!

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130602_135948_zps88f5e332.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130602_135948_zps88f5e332.jpg.html)

At first I was using WD-40 to remove the remaining adhesive but then I tired some automotive solvent based wax and grease remover and that worked better.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130602_173143_zps7b097ab2.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130602_173143_zps7b097ab2.jpg.html)

He's the finished product ready to wet sand and buff.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130602_173943_zps7d98f4fd.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130602_173943_zps7d98f4fd.jpg.html)

I can't believe how long it has been taking!!! I've probably spent 4 hours today removing the stickers from one side and buffing above the rub rail.

I have the boat sitting in my driveway like that so I can work between the garage and the boat out of the sun in the evenings, the sun rises behind my house and sets in front of it.

I'm hoping the machine shop will have all the machine work done to the block and heads this week so I can get the bearings and gaskets ordered I will need. I'm planning on having them assemble the short block.

Steve

SP Maristar
06-02-2013, 09:48 PM
Your hard work is really paying off. The buffed red looks wonderful. Sounds like your motor will be getting assembled in no time. Keep the updates coming. We love updates with pics!

aquaman
06-02-2013, 09:49 PM
Wow.....that's some serious Oxidation.

Looks great.

hig
06-03-2013, 06:41 AM
Wow.....that's some serious Oxidation.

Looks great.

Yes, I know!!! On my Bayliner that is blue and white I buff that every year but it's a quick process. This has set for at least three year and I have to wet sand with 600 grit first because the compound is not cutting it.

hig
06-03-2013, 08:52 PM
I hope someone can help me: When I removed the gas cap the other day the old o-ring was broken and just hanging on so I went to the hardware store today and picked up a new one that's the same dia. - about 1/8" (0.135").

Without the o-ring the cap screws on all the way:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130603_201023_zpsf595a687.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130603_201023_zpsf595a687.jpg.html)

But with the o-ring it does not screw on all the way and seal:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130603_200915_zps7b493dc8.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130603_200915_zps7b493dc8.jpg.html)

Do I have the o-ring in the wrong place? Do I need a longer one that will sit down by the chrome cap?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130603_200935_zpsc96335f7.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130603_200935_zpsc96335f7.jpg.html)

If anyone could snap a pic or give me some guidance I would appreciate it!!

Thanks, Steve

jafo9
06-03-2013, 09:24 PM
even though it doesn't screw in as far, i would think its sealing as it is compressing the o-ring.

FrankSchwab
06-03-2013, 09:41 PM
Looks like it's in the right spot to me:

SP Maristar
06-03-2013, 10:03 PM
Oh great. I had to look at mine. It looks dry. Hey - an excuse to go to the hardware store!96050. Yours looks in the right place.

hig
06-04-2013, 06:37 AM
even though it doesn't screw in as far, i would think its sealing as it is compressing the o-ring.

Thanks for the reply and I would agree except that since I removed my filler, so I could buff around it, I'm able to plug the return line and blow into the fill side and I hear it leaking thru the threads so it's not sealing, it actually seals more without the o-ring than with it. :mad:

Steve

hig
06-04-2013, 06:41 AM
Looks like it's in the right spot to me:

Oh great. I had to look at mine. It looks dry. Hey - an excuse to go to the hardware store!96050. Yours looks in the right place.

Thanks for the pics, yes I have it in the correct place. Like I said, I measured the diameter of the o-ring and it matches the original (0.135").

When your cap is screwed on does it sit tight to the black base or is it raised up with a gap in between, see my pics as to what I mean?

Thanks again, Steve

hig
06-04-2013, 06:45 AM
Oh great. I had to look at mine. It looks dry. Hey - an excuse to go to the hardware store!96050. Yours looks in the right place.

If you go to the hardware store please let me know what size o-ring you purchase.

Also pay attention to the before and after, you won't be able to check if it seals like I did. When I unscrewed mine the o-ring was already broke, it was just hanging.

Does a boat required a sealed gas system like a car or is it just to keep water out?

Steve

SP Maristar
06-04-2013, 09:38 AM
My cap sits up a bit since the o-ring makes contact before the cap does. I will let you know about the size when i get one. I am not sure about the sealed system. I believe prostars have a vent. Perhaps someone else can weigh in.

FrankSchwab
06-04-2013, 01:27 PM
Mine sits up a bit (if it went all the way down, it would hit the heads of the screws that hold it into the boat; they stick just slightly above the flat plastic surface of the filler tube).

Remember that the cap is also the vent for the tank, so blowing through it you may be hearing the air going through the vent...

hig
06-04-2013, 09:23 PM
My cap sits up a bit since the o-ring makes contact before the cap does. I will let you know about the size when i get one. I am not sure about the sealed system. I believe prostars have a vent. Perhaps someone else can weigh in.

Mine sits up a bit (if it went all the way down, it would hit the heads of the screws that hold it into the boat; they stick just slightly above the flat plastic surface of the filler tube).

Remember that the cap is also the vent for the tank, so blowing through it you may be hearing the air going through the vent...

I see the cap has a vent in it, it seems to let air in easier than out. I'm not sure if it was originally a one way check valve or not.

So I guess I'm going to have to assume the o-ring is sealing.

Thanks, Steve

hig
06-04-2013, 09:37 PM
I hope someone can take a pic of a nice Coast Guard Capacity Sticker. I'd like to try and get one reprinted for the boat, as you can see it's in bad shape.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/Sticker_zpsc9ec720c.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/Sticker_zpsc9ec720c.jpg.html)

If possible please take it as square to the sticker as possible. If no one has the same boat and sticker, I can see if they can edit the persons and weight.

Thanks, Steve

SP Maristar
06-04-2013, 10:48 PM
If you go to the hardware store please let me know what size o-ring you purchase.


I came home with a 1 5/8" ID x 1 7/8" OD x 1/8" Diameter o-ring. Seems like a good fit to me.

SP Maristar
06-04-2013, 10:55 PM
Mine has a curled edge but it is clear. 96161

SP Maristar
06-04-2013, 10:56 PM
Another. 96162

mikeg205
06-04-2013, 11:28 PM
I called the marine manufacturers association - they never called me back. These decals are silk screened so one off's would not be cheap. A sign shop with a UV with white printer might be able to pull these off. Getting a new machine next week - with white in my office may be able to pull them off - stand by.

FrankSchwab
06-04-2013, 11:34 PM
Someone figured out how to get replacements at one point in time - I don't remember if they got them from the MMA or from Mastercraft or from a one-off printer. It's on a thread here somewhere...

bturner2
06-05-2013, 06:29 AM
I remember seeing that post. The only problem was each sticker was something like $25.

hig
06-05-2013, 06:38 AM
Someone figured out how to get replacements at one point in time - I don't remember if they got them from the MMA or from Mastercraft or from a one-off printer. It's on a thread here somewhere...

I remember seeing that post. The only problem was each sticker was something like $25.

If you guys find that thread I would appreiciate it. I did some searching on them but did not find anything that sounded like it worked out.

Thanks, Steve

hig
06-05-2013, 06:40 AM
Mine has a curled edge but it is clear. 96161

Thank you for the pics, I can't believe looking at mine that it was yellow!!!

hig
06-05-2013, 06:45 AM
I came home with a 1 5/8" ID x 1 7/8" OD x 1/8" Diameter o-ring. Seems like a good fit to me.

Does the gas cap screw on as far as it did with the old one? I'll stop and see if I picked up that size - Thanks.

I was reading on the gas caps yesterday and the manufacturer recommends changing them every 5 years.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=32696

Steve

SP Maristar
06-05-2013, 08:46 AM
My cap screws on the same as before.

FrankSchwab
06-05-2013, 12:51 PM
Couple of minutes searching found This post (http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=428380&postcount=2) and this (http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=19777)possibly useful thread.

hig
06-05-2013, 08:56 PM
Couple of minutes searching found This post (http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=428380&postcount=2) and this (http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=19777)possibly useful thread.

Thanks for the search but they don't seem to be very helpful. They both reference this site:

http://mymastercraft.hostedbyamazon.com//product_details.cfm?ITEM_ID=17920&product=759018&product_type=Decals&company=MasterCraft&sub_product=Capacity

but it does not seem very well maintained with no contact information.

Steve

FrankSchwab
06-06-2013, 12:07 AM
Sadly, I agree with you. But you could try giving them a call (http://www.aboutus.org/MyMasterCraft.com).

Charlotte Ski Boats (http://www.charlotteskiboats.com/mastercraft_parts.cfm?category=Decals&CurrentPage=2) has a collection of capacity stickers also; you might be able to use one of those.

hig
06-07-2013, 12:30 PM
Sadly, I agree with you. But you could try giving them a call (http://www.aboutus.org/MyMasterCraft.com).

Charlotte Ski Boats (http://www.charlotteskiboats.com/mastercraft_parts.cfm?category=Decals&CurrentPage=2) has a collection of capacity stickers also; you might be able to use one of those.

I Called Charlotte Marine and spoke to Brandon, he was very helpful but said that the number I found was discontinued. He said their web site needs to be updated because it list all of Mastercraft’s part and most of the older parts (before 2007, interior & decals) have been discontinued.

He recommend a sign shop across the street that makes capacity stickers for them but I did not get any answer.

It's amazing with Google that is you change a few words how it changes the results, I found a site that sells replacement stickers!!

http://garzonstudio.com/capacities-decal/4x4-a.html

I have not ordered it yet but I plan on it. The 4x4 Type A matches the one on my boat!!

Steve

FrankSchwab
06-07-2013, 12:47 PM
Excellent find! And you can specify any number of persons that you want!

I'd suggest starting a new thread with a useful title like "FOUND! Replacement capacity stickers" and including a link to the site you found so that the next person looking for them can find them easily too.

Perhaps throw in one of the pictures of capacity plates in this thread, suggesting that people post their capacity stickers also for future reference.

/frank

hig
06-07-2013, 01:03 PM
Excellent find! And you can specify any number of persons that you want!

I'd suggest starting a new thread with a useful title like "FOUND! Replacement capacity stickers" and including a link to the site you found so that the next person looking for them can find them easily too.

Perhaps throw in one of the pictures of capacity plates in this thread, suggesting that people post their capacity stickers also for future reference.

/frank

That's a grea idea. I just ordered one. I'll post a pic when I get it and I will start a thread. Reference pics would be a good idea, I certainly could not read mine. I was getting discouraged because most threads just died.

Steve

hig
06-10-2013, 09:39 PM
Would my 98 Maristar had a power motor cover? When I bought the boat the 1 pc. sun deck was not fastened, but all I have is the 2 hinges in the back and 2 gas struts, one on each side.

This is what I have:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130610_190645_zpsd6f03adf.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130610_190645_zpsd6f03adf.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130610_191807_zps36159b6e.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130610_191807_zps36159b6e.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/2013060495175041_zps0b869dcc.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/2013060495175041_zps0b869dcc.jpg.html)

Just so it's not confusing, I have the fiberglass center rear seat section sitting where the motor should be.

I forgot to take a picture of the sun deck pad to see how it would lock on that bracket.

How would the motor have been fastened?

Thanks, Steve

dpolen
06-10-2013, 09:45 PM
Yes, there is a powered hydraulic actuator that sits in the port locker which is wired to a switch right behind the throttle arm. I just traded in my '98 maristar, otherwise I'd hook you up with a picture. This motor always scared me that it would wear out one day...my kids loved to play with the button to raise/lower the sundeck. I'm sure someone else will be along shortly with details, but thought I would chime in to try to help.

hig
06-10-2013, 09:57 PM
Well I had to go out and take a few pics of the sun deck.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130610_214427_zps27227091.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130610_214427_zps27227091.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130610_214332_zps22db1a9a.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130610_214332_zps22db1a9a.jpg.html)

There's screw holes on each side where I assume the shock go.

I don't know if someone modified my deck and covered over the holes and installed the latch?

Thanks, Steve

hig
06-10-2013, 10:01 PM
Yes, there is a powered hydraulic actuator that sits in the port locker which is wired to a switch right behind the throttle arm. I just traded in my '98 maristar, otherwise I'd hook you up with a picture. This motor always scared me that it would wear out one day...my kids loved to play with the button to raise/lower the sundeck. I'm sure someone else will be along shortly with details, but thought I would chime in to try to help.

Thanks for the reply. Either my boat came without it or someone modified it, even a block out plate behind the throttle where the switch would have been. Boy do I have a lot to learn about inboards!!

Thanks again, Steve

dpolen
06-10-2013, 10:36 PM
Sorry Steve, I really thought that was standard...but in all honesty, I like the non-powered setup better. If you can figure out how strong of shocks you need, I promise you'll like how it works! I would think you'll need two relatively strong shocks to support it...do a search on the forum, there was a guy that replaced his powered actuator with spring shocks for fear that the powered unit would crap out.

Good luck!
Doug

FrankSchwab
06-11-2013, 02:03 AM
Ya learn something new every day. I don't see any evidence that your boat ever had the actuator - I didn't know that was possible. That's a slick looking latch assembly on the deck too - I wonder where I could get one of those - it would be far better than the powered setup.

Looks like your boat is missing all of the panels out of the rear compartment. There used to be carpeted boards mounted on the sides and transom, and two hinged boards mounted next to the engine. Formed a right nice carpeted box, it did. I took mine out so the Air Chair would fit in the compartment, but I left the dividers next to the engine to keep things from shifting into it. The dividers would fold down towards the outer side of the boat for access to the engine.

/frank

hig
06-11-2013, 06:30 AM
Looks like your boat is missing all of the panels out of the rear compartment. There used to be carpeted boards mounted on the sides and transom, and two hinged boards mounted next to the engine. Formed a right nice carpeted box, it did. I took mine out so the Air Chair would fit in the compartment, but I left the dividers next to the engine to keep things from shifting into it. The dividers would fold down towards the outer side of the boat for access to the engine.

/frank

I have the panels for the rear compartment. The carpeting was so greasy/moldy I removed all the carpeting and the dividers. After I reinstall the motor I will powerwash the dividers really well and reinstall them. Sometime I plan relacing all the carpets.

hig
06-11-2013, 06:32 AM
Do most boats have the gas shocks or just the actuator?

Thanks, Steve

FrankSchwab
06-11-2013, 04:58 PM
Mine has the actuator and one gas shock. I added a second to help lift the deck because the actuator was moving slow. If I remove the actuator, the two shocks are sufficient to hold the deck up.

SP Maristar
06-11-2013, 05:18 PM
I will try to post pics of our bone stock setup tonight.

hig
06-11-2013, 08:40 PM
I've polished some of my stainless steel trim, it didn't come out perfect but a lot better then it was. I bought a small Craftsman's buffer a while ago to buff some automotive trim.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130611_181009_zpsb6c15edb.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130611_181009_zpsb6c15edb.jpg.html)

Can I just use a good silicone sealant when I reassemble any parts that are close to the water or do I need to use a marine silicone.

Steve

FrankSchwab
06-11-2013, 08:56 PM
Just use silicone. Even without sealant, you're not going to get any significant water through those fittings (except possibly the bow ring). Of course, I'm speaking as someone with pre-teen children and a dog; a golf-ball sized hole in the hull would let less water into the boat than the kids and dog bring in.

Don't get into the 3M 5200 sealant crowd - it's great stuff, but consider it more-or-less permanent. If you ever need to get it off, you'll have to get out the jackhammer.

Also, I replaced the fixed cleats on the flanks of the boat with pop-ups. The kids love jumping off the sunpad over the side, and I really worried about one of them coming in contact with those horns. Something like this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACCON-450-4-4-INCH-STAINLESS-PULL-UP-BOAT-CLEAT-/370371802547?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item563be135b3&vxp=mtr)or this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/folding-cleat-stainless-4-5-accon-marine-heavy-duty-/370819291348?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item56568d58d4&vxp=mtr) helped my piece of mind immensely.

hig
06-11-2013, 09:25 PM
Just use silicone. Even without sealant, you're not going to get any significant water through those fittings (except possibly the bow ring). Of course, I'm speaking as someone with pre-teen children and a dog; a golf-ball sized hole in the hull would let less water into the boat than the kids and dog bring in.

Don't get into the 3M 5200 sealant crowd - it's great stuff, but consider it more-or-less permanent. If you ever need to get it off, you'll have to get out the jackhammer.

Also, I replaced the fixed cleats on the flanks of the boat with pop-ups. The kids love jumping off the sunpad over the side, and I really worried about one of them coming in contact with those horns. Something like this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACCON-450-4-4-INCH-STAINLESS-PULL-UP-BOAT-CLEAT-/370371802547?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item563be135b3&vxp=mtr)or this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/folding-cleat-stainless-4-5-accon-marine-heavy-duty-/370819291348?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item56568d58d4&vxp=mtr) helped my piece of mind immensely.

Thanks for the advice on the sealant.

Those cleats are nice!! Someplace I saw some pop up Mastercraft ones but I think I better get her running first. :)

hig
06-11-2013, 09:43 PM
I have some questions about some of the switches on the dash.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130611_181217_zpsbdd1423a.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130611_181217_zpsbdd1423a.jpg.html)


Since I have not had any power to my boat yet I was wondering what Acc-1 & Acc-2 are used for?


I'm assuming I'm missing the cover for the Anchor/Navigation light circuit breaker, Is that a dealer only item?


I'm also assuming the push button above the switches is for the horn, should that have a cover on it also?


http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130611_181227_zps6aafaf99.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130611_181227_zps6aafaf99.jpg.html)


I'm missing the cigarette lighter, is that something special or would one from a car work?

I'm also wondering does the boat have a warning buzzer if the motor temp rises to an unsafe level? I know there's a temp gauge but I buzzer would be nice just in case no one is looking at the gauges.

Any help on where to find my missing parts would be greatly appreciated!!!

SP Maristar
06-11-2013, 10:33 PM
Pics of our hatch actuator and shock. 965929659396594

SP Maristar
06-11-2013, 10:48 PM
Since I have not had any power to my boat yet I was wondering what Acc-1 & Acc-2 are used for?

One is for the heater blower and one is for the hot water shower, if equipped. We have both and I always forget which switch is which (say that ten times fast).

I'm assuming I'm missing the cover for the Anchor/Navigation light circuit breaker, Is that a dealer only item?

Yes, it is missing, and I'm not sure about the dealer part.

I'm also assuming the push button above the switches is for the horn, should that have a cover on it also?

Yes, it is for the horn, and no it doesn't get a cover.


I'm missing the cigarette lighter, is that something special or would one from a car work?

I don't know for sure.

I'm also wondering does the boat have a warning buzzer if the motor temp rises to an unsafe level? I know there's a temp gauge but I buzzer would be nice just in case no one is looking at the gauges.

I'd like to hear the answer on this one too!

Any help on where to find my missing parts would be greatly appreciated!!![/QUOTE]

FrankSchwab
06-12-2013, 12:09 AM
If you ever want to replace those dash panels, I found this place (http://aplusmobilegraphics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=114) that sells them.

ACC-1 and ACC-2 are simply for whatever accessories you want to have on switches. SP has a good answer for a heater equipped boat, mine aren't hooked up to anything (but will be eventually).

I don't know where to get those little pieces; you might have to look around places like this (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11978&familyName=Blue+Sea+Systems+Circuit+Breaker+Reset+ Button+Boots)to find them.

I don't know about the cigarette lighter; mines missing also.

dboat
06-12-2013, 03:40 PM
Accessory 1 may be a shower, if you have one. If you turn on the accessory 1 you should be able to hear if something is running. Sometimes the acc. 1 and 2 are spare switches for add-ons if you want to add a heater or shower or add LED lights, etc.

dpolen
06-12-2013, 04:22 PM
ACC-1 was tied to my depth finder on my '98

hig
06-12-2013, 09:38 PM
Well I made some progress on cleaning the inside of the bow. My boat sat for at least 3 yeas with just the mooring cover on it outside before I purchased it, needless to say things got moldy!!

Most of the carpets had a black film on it. This is the panel below the dash panel, half of it is the way the boat was the other half is power washed.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130612_195249_zpsbd994e40.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130612_195249_zpsbd994e40.jpg.html)

I've removed most of the seats and side panels so that can clean them and clean behind them.

Before:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130612_164427_zps3f26115d.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130612_164427_zps3f26115d.jpg.html)

It's looking better but boy it's a lot of work, fortunately my one son helped me tonight, I enjoyed working with him.

Steve

After wet sanding the top surfaces, buffing and waxing:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130612_193621_zpsf44fb6ff.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130612_193621_zpsf44fb6ff.jpg.html)

hig
06-12-2013, 09:44 PM
Unfortunately my boat does not have a depth gauge, heater or shower. I'm curious to see if Acc-1 & 2 are connected to anything. I won't know until I get the motor back in and the wiring hooked back up.

Sometime I will have to do a search on a homemade heater, it seems like it would be simple to make with a heater core and a blower motor. :)

Does anyone have a picture of the factory cigarette lighter, I'm curious what was there.

Steve

dboat
06-13-2013, 09:39 AM
Your bow turned out great! With the cigarette plug on my dash, it wasn't plugged in behind the dash, not that we needed one. Anyway West Marine had a cheap replacement with a cap for it. Sorry, I do t have a pic Hig.

SP Maristar
06-13-2013, 09:43 AM
Nice progress Steve. I'll snap a pic of our cig lighter the next time we go out unless someone beats me to it.

hig
06-13-2013, 12:25 PM
Your bow turned out great! With the cigarette plug on my dash, it wasn't plugged in behind the dash, not that we needed one. Anyway West Marine had a cheap replacement with a cap for it. Sorry, I do t have a pic Hig.

I like that idea of a replacement with a cap, I'd never use the lighter and it's one less think for the kids to play with.

SP Maristar
06-13-2013, 12:43 PM
What are your plans for the dash panels?

hig
06-13-2013, 12:54 PM
What are your plans for the dash panels?

I'm going to try and wrap them in 3M vinyl. I ordered some bubinga wood vinyl and I'm going to see about having the letters cut from white vinyl. I probably should have ordered a set of replacements from Frank's post but that wouldn't be as much fun. You see pics when I start on it.

Steve

hig
06-16-2013, 03:05 PM
I'm so excited, I finally feel like I've rounded the corner where it's time to put things back together again!!

I have the whole exterior & interior clean. This morning I finished waxing the interior of the boat, I had finished washing and buffing the interior Saturday.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_093032_zps1e9880cd.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_093032_zps1e9880cd.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_093011_zps6dc90970.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_093011_zps6dc90970.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_093113_zpsc586ec78.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_093113_zpsc586ec78.jpg.html)

Here's a good pic of how most of the carpets looked when I bought the boat, fortunately it can clean up with just the power washer. You can also see the modified wand I used to spray up under things better, it was too hard to spray in all the compartments with out it.

Before:
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130615_084652_zps73008202.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130615_084652_zps73008202.jpg.html)

After:
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130615_165234_zps51ad03e3.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130615_165234_zps51ad03e3.jpg.html)

I know I still have a lot of work to do, I'm ordering the motor rebuild kit tomorrow and I'm going to have the machine shop rebuild the short block.

hig
06-16-2013, 03:24 PM
Here's a good before and after:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130505_155524_zps1b7de070.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130505_155524_zps1b7de070.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_093047_zpsd4f73f12.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_093047_zpsd4f73f12.jpg.html)

I don't think I have to mark them before & after - you should be able to tell!!

I don't want to claim to be an expert but I've learned a lot with removing the oxidation. I really recommend, on a boat this bad, wet sanding with 600, 800, 1000, 1200 and on the dark colors 1500 grit 3M wet sandpaper.

My neighbor stopped by while I was buffing and he gave me a bottle of Presta Starta Ultra Cut compound and I have to say that worked the best.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130609_154218_zpsd46a6d35.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130609_154218_zpsd46a6d35.jpg.html)

The 3M compound is supposed to be the best for buffing fresh automotive clear coat and I would say it cuts about the same as the Meguires Oxidation Remover. The Presta cut the best and left a nice finish, I did not go over it with a finer compound. I would really recommend going thru all the grits, I played around with different steps and when I did all those grits it buffed like a piece of cake. Also pictured is the sanding pad I used to get nice even pressure while I was sanding. I bought 9 1/2" x 11" sheets and cut them in half, you wrap them in thirds around the block so you get 3 sides to sand with. I was surprised the paper did not last longer, I would say I had to use a fresh side about every 2' ft. x 2' ft. area or less.

I hope this encourages someone to get out there and buff their boat: ;)

hig
06-16-2013, 03:27 PM
What is the best way to clean up the aluminum windshield frame? I'm assuming it oxidation?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_075020_zps14d53763.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_075020_zps14d53763.jpg.html)

I tried buffing a small area by hand and that worked but is there a cleaner that would shine it up, maybe a wheel product?

Thanks, Steve

FrankSchwab
06-16-2013, 04:44 PM
Man that's looking good.

I've never tried working on the windshield frame; I got out a buffing wheel and aluminum rouge and did our Air Chair, but that seems like a poor choice for the frame. You're on your own for this one.

SP Maristar
06-16-2013, 05:43 PM
What polish did you use hig?

hig
06-16-2013, 06:35 PM
What polish did you use hig?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_175746_zps26540d62.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_175746_zps26540d62.jpg.html)

Thanks for asking, I meant to post that also. I used the Meguires this time but I also bought some Collinite Heavy Duty Fleetwax that I will try next time.

hig
06-16-2013, 06:37 PM
Man that's looking good.

I've never tried working on the windshield frame; I got out a buffing wheel and aluminum rouge and did our Air Chair, but that seems like a poor choice for the frame. You're on your own for this one.

Thanks for the compliment!!

I will see what they have for aluminum rim cleaner/polish next time I'm at the parts store.

hig
06-16-2013, 06:49 PM
I changed my transmission fluid Saturday, what I messy job. I was glad I don't have any carpets in the back compartments yet, I would have a trail of AFT. I bought a transfer pump but I was having a hard time getting the tube to go to the bottom and not curl up. I found a piece of 1/2" copper tubing and taped it to the hose, with that I was almost able to get to the bottom of the case (the curves some so I couldn't get the very bottom). I sucked out 3 3/8 qts.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130615_151504_zps96a5c34e.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130615_151504_zps96a5c34e.jpg.html)

I added a gallon of 15W-40 oil, I have the cooler drained so once I get it running I'll check the dipstick and adjust as needed. One thing I will do next time is make sure I pump into an empty gallon oil jug, hopefully it won't splash as much when I get carried way with a pump or suck air. :)

One more thing crossed off the to do list!!!

hig
06-16-2013, 06:52 PM
Question time:

Looking at this bulb wouldn't you assume it was blown?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_165612_zps0f6deb72.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_165612_zps0f6deb72.jpg.html)

It's not:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_165604_zps49c63eee.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_165604_zps49c63eee.jpg.html)

Is this normal?

I figure since I have the dash out I will go thru and change all the bulbs now just to be safe, they are marked 191's.

Steve

hig
06-16-2013, 07:01 PM
I can do a search on this but if someone wants to point me in the right direction that would be great.

Early on Frank posted that the fuel senders tend to go bad and since I don't have power to the boat yet I pulled the sender and tried to check it.

Full:
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130615_162409_zps2b3ff80d.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130615_162409_zps2b3ff80d.jpg.html)

Empty:
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130615_162418_zpse3d1c542.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130615_162418_zpse3d1c542.jpg.html)

The resistance did not change, am I doing something wrong? I assumed there would be a slide in that tube so I pulled it apart but did not see any slide. Does the resistance change as the fuel moves up and down on the tube?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_172312_zps1a8a6e75.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_172312_zps1a8a6e75.jpg.html)

I see there's adjustments on top of the sender but I didn't touch them:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_173403_zps463f2563.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_173403_zps463f2563.jpg.html)

Thanks, Steve

hig
06-16-2013, 07:04 PM
Last question (for now):

What is this? It was screwed under the dash and wired to the stereo power and runs all the way back to where the motor should be, I do not know where it was hooked. Is it a circuit breaker, all that's on it is 12 volt?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_175654_zpsd305e6f9.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_175654_zpsd305e6f9.jpg.html)

Thanks, Steve

mtajpa
06-16-2013, 07:25 PM
I can do a search on this but if someone wants to point me in the right direction that would be great.

Early on Frank posted that the fuel senders tend to go bad and since I don't have power to the boat yet I pulled the sender and tried to check it.

Full:
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130615_162409_zps2b3ff80d.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130615_162409_zps2b3ff80d.jpg.html)

Empty:
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130615_162418_zpse3d1c542.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130615_162418_zpse3d1c542.jpg.html)

The resistance did not change, am I doing something wrong? I assumed there would be a slide in that tube so I pulled it apart but did not see any slide. Does the resistance change as the fuel moves up and down on the tube?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_172312_zps1a8a6e75.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_172312_zps1a8a6e75.jpg.html)

I see there's adjustments on top of the sender but I didn't touch them:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_173403_zps463f2563.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_173403_zps463f2563.jpg.html)

Thanks, Steve

The highest that sender should read is 240 ohms give or take a few ohms. Fuel Sender 101 thread will help. I am sure you will need a new sending unit. http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=48823

hig
06-16-2013, 08:53 PM
The highest that sender should read is 240 ohms give or take a few ohms. Fuel Sender 101 thread will help. I am sure you will need a new sending unit. http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=48823

Thank you, that was a very nice write up. I guess I will be ordering a sending unit.

barefoot
06-16-2013, 09:53 PM
Hig...Just started reading this, and to say the least, I'm impressed with what you've accomplished! It seems you know your way around cars/boats, which leaves me with one question: Why a Bayliner?

Your MC will be a world of difference from your old boat. My guess is you'll wonder why you didn't make the move years ago!

FrankSchwab
06-17-2013, 12:07 AM
The highest that sender should read is 240 ohms give or take a few ohms. Fuel Sender 101 thread will help. I am sure you will need a new sending unit. http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=48823

I'm not sure I agree. I believe that's an electronic sender, and needs to have 12V fed into it to work right; then it simulates the appropriate resistance. I think I'd put it back in-circuit and measure the voltage across the sender as you raise and lower it in the tank - no change, new sender.

That's already a replacement, and not the one that came with the boat.

FrankSchwab
06-17-2013, 12:10 AM
I figure since I have the dash out I will go thru and change all the bulbs now just to be safe, they are marked 191's.

Steve

On mine, the bulbs had a little orange hood on them in order to give an orange backlight on the gauges. An orange-dyed bulb seems like a better answer. The next time I had to do mine, I was going to see about retrofitting an orange LED.

hig
06-17-2013, 06:38 AM
I'm not sure I agree. I believe that's an electronic sender, and needs to have 12V fed into it to work right; then it simulates the appropriate resistance. I think I'd put it back in-circuit and measure the voltage across the sender as you raise and lower it in the tank - no change, new sender.

That's already a replacement, and not the one that came with the boat.

Would you be able to explain how to test it, either describe it in detail or attach a sketch? I would hate to change it if I didn't need to.

Would you know why in "mtajpa" thread:

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=48823

the old seader (like mine) does not measure correctly but the new one measures correctly, is it a different style, electronic compaired to mechanical slide?

Thanks, Steve

hig
06-17-2013, 06:46 AM
Hig...Just started reading this, and to say the least, I'm impressed with what you've accomplished! It seems you know your way around cars/boats, which leaves me with one question: Why a Bayliner?

Your MC will be a world of difference from your old boat. My guess is you'll wonder why you didn't make the move years ago!

Thank you for the compliment!! I guess I didn't know better with the Bayliner. I got an awesome deal on it and it has been a good boat but the quality of the MC is so much better!!

BTW, here's another project I've been working on for over 3 years, a 1972 Camaro.
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/20121101_194749.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/20121101_194749.jpg.html)

but for some reason I keep getting sidetracked with other projects. :)


Steve

hig
06-17-2013, 09:24 PM
I had a friend at work strip and powder coat the ski platform brackets for me, I gave him $25 to do it. I think they came out good.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130617_195610_zpsfda491ae.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130617_195610_zpsfda491ae.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130617_195629_zps88a35b96.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130617_195629_zps88a35b96.jpg.html)

From the factory what held the teak platform "L" bracket down in the bracket that bolts to the boat? When I bought the boat it just had a couple of steel cotter pins in the holes at the bottom of the brackets.

Steve

SP Maristar
06-17-2013, 09:27 PM
These guys hold the platform on!96984

FrankSchwab
06-17-2013, 11:40 PM
Would you be able to explain how to test it, either describe it in detail or attach a sketch? I would hate to change it if I didn't need to.

Would you know why in "mtajpa" thread:

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=48823

the old seader (like mine) does not measure correctly but the new one measures correctly, is it a different style, electronic compaired to mechanical slide?

Thanks, Steve

I will step out of this conversation now; his write-up is authoritative and excellent. Apparently that style is not electronic like I thought, and yours definitely looks like it needs replacement. BTW, I ended up with a replacement that looks exactly like the new one he got, from WEMA (http://www.wemausa.com/sensors/level-FuelWater.shtml). I'm quite satisfied with it.

hig
06-18-2013, 06:50 AM
Last question (for now):

What is this? It was screwed under the dash and wired to the stereo power and runs all the way back to where the motor should be, I do not know where it was hooked. Is it a circuit breaker, all that's on it is 12 volt?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_175654_zpsd305e6f9.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_175654_zpsd305e6f9.jpg.html)

Thanks, Steve

Does anyone know what this is?

Thanks, Steve

SP Maristar
06-18-2013, 09:41 AM
Sorry Steve, it doesn't look familiar.

Dylan
06-18-2013, 10:27 AM
Looks like it might be a relay?

hig
06-18-2013, 05:52 PM
Should there be a 160 degree t-stat in here? When I pulled it apart there was nothing there?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130618_174313_zps2e916e0e.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130618_174313_zps2e916e0e.jpg.html)

I found the 140 degree one but not the 160. Is it missing or am I looking in the wrong spot?

Thanks, Steve

FrankSchwab
06-19-2013, 01:35 AM
Looks like it might be a relay?

Normally with a relay, you'd need at least three connectors on the bottom - one for +12 to activate the relay (grounded through the case), and a guzinta and guzouta terminal. With only two terminals on this one, I'm at a loss - perhaps a circuit breaker (although it appears to be labeled with "12 v", not a current rating), perhaps something else. Really hard to tell.

/frank

hig
06-19-2013, 06:34 AM
Normally with a relay, you'd need at least three connectors on the bottom - one for +12 to activate the relay (grounded through the case), and a guzinta and guzouta terminal. With only two terminals on this one, I'm at a loss - perhaps a circuit breaker (although it appears to be labeled with "12 v", not a current rating), perhaps something else. Really hard to tell.

/frank

That's funny, I use the term guzinta but never heard of guzouta but I guess if you have one you can have the other. :)

hig
06-19-2013, 06:43 AM
Normally with a relay, you'd need at least three connectors on the bottom - one for +12 to activate the relay (grounded through the case), and a guzinta and guzouta terminal. With only two terminals on this one, I'm at a loss - perhaps a circuit breaker (although it appears to be labeled with "12 v", not a current rating), perhaps something else. Really hard to tell.

/frank

I figured it out!! After reading your post I thought about it differently, I was thinking it was like a circuit breaker (but not marked with amps) or a noise supperessor and it was feeding the stereo power but it's getting power FROM the stereo.

I was planning on buying one of these and I knew the "box" looked simular but I did not put it together:

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SIEMP41400

It's an alarm buzzer!!. It's getting power from the stereo, going thru the buzzer to a normally open grounding sending unit!!! I applied power and it make a vibrating buzz sound.

When I reassemble the motor I will have to look for 1 or 2 not factory sending units.

Mystery solved!!!

Greenster
06-19-2013, 09:19 PM
You are doing a great job. Nice to see a Mastercraft restored.

As far as your water pump thermostat. You will need to order one. A marine boat 160 is different from the chevy one. Dont forget to get the seal for it as well. If I remember right, I got mine from Skidim

mtajpa
06-19-2013, 09:40 PM
I will step out of this conversation now; his write-up is authoritative and excellent. Apparently that style is not electronic like I thought, and yours definitely looks like it needs replacement. BTW, I ended up with a replacement that looks exactly like the new one he got, from WEMA (http://www.wemausa.com/sensors/level-FuelWater.shtml). I'm quite satisfied with it.

My sender is still reading acurate. Thanks for the pat on the back Frank. Is it possible that the Relay/Buzzer is for the check engine buzzer that comes on when you first turn on the ignition?

Great progress by the way. Mine started out similar to yours however mine was running well just needed the elbow grease part. Keep up the good work.

hig
06-20-2013, 06:49 AM
You are doing a great job. Nice to see a Mastercraft restored.

As far as your water pump thermostat. You will need to order one. A marine boat 160 is different from the chevy one. Dont forget to get the seal for it as well. If I remember right, I got mine from Skidim

My sender is still reading acurate. Thanks for the pat on the back Frank. Is it possible that the Relay/Buzzer is for the check engine buzzer that comes on when you first turn on the ignition?

Great progress by the way. Mine started out similar to yours however mine was running well just needed the elbow grease part. Keep up the good work.

Thanks for the compliments on the boat. It's been a lot of work but I'm getting excited that it's going back togeter now!!

I'm working on an order from Skidim, fuel gauge sender, raw water impeller, t-stats, gasket & o-ring.

Does the boats have a factory installed buzzer? The one I took the picture of was definately not "factory" installed, it was held on by one screw and the wires were not run thru wire loom like the rest.

Thanks again, Steve

hig
06-21-2013, 08:06 PM
On the first page of the thread Frank posted an info.txt file with a lot of part numbers, well it helped out already. I needed to replace the shock on the port side storage compartment. The text file had a Monroe part number listed, I searched it on Ebay and for around $16 I bought it including shipping.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130621_184735_zps66e19764.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130621_184735_zps66e19764.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130619_202102_zpsa3f1ddb4.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130619_202102_zpsa3f1ddb4.jpg.html)

I called NAPA and they quoted me $30 ish.

Thanks Frank!!

mikeg205
06-21-2013, 08:11 PM
Yes - looking around can save hundreds on projects.

hig
06-27-2013, 06:56 AM
I need help deciding if I should change the packing on shaft? The 1998 Maristar has 375 hours and has been sitting for 3 years. Now would be the time to change it but on the otherhand I don't want to do it if I don't have to.

Any advice?

Thanks, Steve

FrankSchwab
06-27-2013, 01:22 PM
Do you still have the engine out of the boat?

If so, I'd say that this is certainly the right time. Getting access to the packing nuts is really a pain in our boats - you can see them, you can reach in and touch them, but getting a wrench on them and rotating is difficult.

It's not really a huge job even with the engine and trans in place. Drop the partitions next to the engine, lay down, loosen the jam nut and unscrew the packing nut. Use a dental pick or something similar to pull all the old packing out, put in the GFO (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GFO3/16X24)packing from SkiDim, put things back together loosely. Wait till you get to the lake, tighten up until you have a good drip rate (be generous at this point), run for awhile, retighten. After ten hours, check and re-adjust to final drip rate. Good instruction here (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box). It'll be a three or four hour job the first time you do it, less than an hour the second time.

Remember that you'll have to re-align the propshaft when the engine goes back in; leaving the packing loose will make that a bit easier.

/frank

SP Maristar
06-27-2013, 01:22 PM
Our boat has about 410 hours on it. Had it in recently for a leak (another story) but had the packing adjusted at the same time. Mechanic said it looked like it had never been adjusted. He tweaked a little bit and said we had a LOT of room to adjust more. I'm not sure if it sitting is bad or not. Like you said now is the time to replace if needed. Access to the packing in a V drive is a nightmare.

hig
06-27-2013, 08:10 PM
I was hoping someone would reply and say "no, the packing is good for 1000's of hours". :)

Now is definitely the time to do it I guess.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130627_173807_zps695ce3fc.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130627_173807_zps695ce3fc.jpg.html)

I might even be able to lift the bell housing side of the trans up some to gain more clearance.

How do I know if the cutlass bearing is good, do I just check for uneven wear on the sides?

Thanks for the good advice.

Thanks, Steve

hig
06-27-2013, 08:23 PM
Before:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130505_154521_zps7af2a39b.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130505_154521_zps7af2a39b.jpg.html)

After:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130627_173013_zps180201f4.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130627_173013_zps180201f4.jpg.html)

I cleaned everything up, painted the speaker grills and bought 4 plastic cup holders, the two in the rear seat were cracked on the lips. I took four of the cushions to a neighbor of a friend to have the seams resewn where they came apart, they aren't perfect but they look much better. She just used a hooked needle to restitch them.

Unfortunately the speakers are junk but the grills look good. :) I figure a new stereo system is WAY down on the list!!

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_191136_zps4c6d9c9e.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_191136_zps4c6d9c9e.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_191159_zps98ebbecc.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130616_191159_zps98ebbecc.jpg.html)

I finally have the mooring cover all cleaned up and reinstalled. I dropped the engine parts off to the rebuilder, he said it should be done the middle of next week.

I will be placing a Skidim order soon!!

Steve

FrankSchwab
06-27-2013, 09:43 PM
Yeah, if you've got that access to the stuffing box, do it now. The gore-tex packing is nice in that, after adjusting once or twice, you probably won't have to adjust again for a long time. The flax packing needs adjustment every now and then; a 5 minute job on a PS190 but quite a bit more for us.

For the cutlass bearing, I'd pull the stuffing box hose off the shaft log, and check how much play you can feel in the transmission side of the propshaft (only the cutlass bearings and your hand should be supporting the propshaft). A little bit of play is fine, a lot of play isn't. If the propshaft wants to lean against the side of the shaft log (strut is bent and needs to be fixed and cutlass bearings will be worn to one side) or if there is a lot more play left-right than up-down (or vice versa), I'd swap out the cutlass bearings.

Things are looking real good there. Hope you're on the water soon.

/frank

hig
06-28-2013, 01:05 PM
Hope you're on the water soon.

/frank

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130628_064413_zps3ffceb19.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130628_064413_zps3ffceb19.jpg.html)

I don't think this is what you meant!! This is what I woke up to. My garage floor and part my basement was wet but no real damage, just clean up.

I also have a 2 family apartment house that has a basement full of water that I'm pumping out now. Probably will lose the furnace but other than that there's not much down there but there will be a lot of yard work.

It could have been a lot worse!!
Steve

hig
06-30-2013, 08:29 PM
Is this part called the shaft log? I removed the hose clamps and slid the stuffing box rubber hose forward and found this:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130630_153716_zps14c3c9e1.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130630_153716_zps14c3c9e1.jpg.html)

There is plastic missing on the bottom of the shaft log all the way back to the fiberglass, I'm assuming the shaft must have wore thru it? Am I correct? On the outside of the boat it does look oval where the shaft passes thru.

Any advice on removing the prop without a prop knocker or special C clamp tool? I've sprayed it with PB Blaster and carefully pryed on the hub while hitting the prop with a rubber mallet. My gas tank is removed so if I get the prop off I should be able to slide the shaft out, I have the 4 coupling bolts removed and had the hub separated. What's the best to lube the cutlass bearing to remove the shaft easier?

I really need some advice and if I'm using the wrong terms for the parts please correct me, I will be ordering some parts and I'd like to be able to call things by the correct name.

BTW the motor is still removed so I'm not concerned by the alignment currently.

Thanks, Steve

FrankSchwab
06-30-2013, 09:22 PM
Lot's of threads on pulling the prop on here. First hint: Leave the prop nut on a few threads; you don't want the prop popping loose and clanging on the ground (or your toe). I got a two-jaw gear puller from Harbor Freight (make sure it's big enough), tightened it down, then whacked on the end of it which popped it loose. Others have used a 2x4 and a big hammer to whack on the back side of the prop. Or, you can beg, borrow, or steal a real prop puller.

You'll have to remove the coupler from the transmission end also. You're gonna have the same kind of problem - simply removing the nut that holds the coupler on won't release the propshaft. People have had good success with similar approaches as the propshaft - or you can drill four holes in a piece of steel plate, put four bolts through and screw them into the coupler, and tighten them down to put force on the propshaft to push it out of the coupler. Once you have the coupler removed, the propshaft will slide right out the back of the boat - no need to lubricate the strut bearing in this situation. If you do want to lubricate, use water (or the "personal lubricant" of your choice) - petroleum based lubes may destroy the rubber inside the bearing.

Now let's talk about that shaft log. If you've worn through the side of it, you're going to leak water into the boat. That's generally a bad thing, especially since the shaft log represents a fairly big hole in the bottom of the boat. I've never done anything to mine, so I'm not an expert here, but I think this is something you need to fix. I don't know if this is reparable or needs to be replaced.

You'll need to figure out if your strut is bent. Disconnect the coupler, and see if the strut is pointing the propshaft through the shaft log without touching the sides. It's possible that the engine/transmission were so far out of alignment that they pushed the shaft against the side of the log, or it's possible that the strut got bent and it's the thing pushing the shaft against the side of the log. Figure out which it is. If it's the strut, search here for "bent strut" for suggestions on repairing or replacing. If the propshaft slides through the strut and goes through the shaft log easily, then it was an engine alignment issue that you're going to fix anyway.

But with that amount of misalignment, I'd seriously consider changing the cutlass bearings while you're at it. The all-plastic "Vesconite" bearings have had good reviews.

/frank

hig
07-01-2013, 08:30 PM
I tried to have a prop puller made at work but I have to modify the bolt spacing to clear the prop. :( I really want to get that shaft log removed so I can see the damage and check the shaft to see if it's bent. It was raining so I did not get outside much tonight.

Can someone tell me if the sending unit in the upper left hand corner is stock or does it go with that aftermarket warning buzzer I found?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130701_194728_zps111d38c5.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130701_194728_zps111d38c5.jpg.html)

Thanks, Steve

hig
07-02-2013, 09:01 PM
I figured I'd share my shopping list I ordered from Skidim.com. Richard was great about emailing me back the correct part numbers for the parts I needed. If anything is wrong when the order comes in I will modify the list.

1998 LT1 5.7 - Corvette Skidim.com
160 degree thermostat-------------------11905
160 degree o-ring seal-------------------91608
140 degree thermostat-------------------0737
140 degree paper gasket-----------------0709
Raw water impeller kit--------------------0714
Fuel gauge sender-----------------------61611
Hurth 630V front seal (bell housing side)--90-5210 (special order from Indmar)
GFO 3/16” Shaft Packing-----------------31605
XPC Strut Bearings-----------------------32710
Hose 1 ¾” x 6” Shaft Log----------------32108
1 ¼” Water Hose – Raw water inlet-------30305 x 6’
1 ¼” Sea Strainer------------------------2502
1 ¼” Hose barbed straight----------------2513 x 2

Hopefully it will save someone some time when looking for parts.

Steve

hig
07-02-2013, 09:10 PM
I had a couple of puller tools made up. I found something similar to this on the site for the coupling:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130702_181115_zpsdff5b961.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130702_181115_zpsdff5b961.jpg.html)

and used a piece of angle with a 1 1/8" slot milled into it to go around the shaft:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130702_175409_zps6d0ab8dd.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130702_175409_zps6d0ab8dd.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130702_175352_zpsa031d6ad.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130702_175352_zpsa031d6ad.jpg.html)

I used a steering wheel puller and cut down the treaded part to fit between the prop and the rudder.

Steve

FrankSchwab
07-02-2013, 11:21 PM
You are now a master of older Mastercrafts, my son. Use your knowledge wisely.

Seriously, cool job of using the tools at hand to get'er done. Did you get the shaft out?

Table Rocker
07-03-2013, 08:29 AM
I tried to have a prop puller made at work but I have to modify the bolt spacing to clear the prop. :( I really want to get that shaft log removed so I can see the damage and check the shaft to see if it's bent. It was raining so I did not get outside much tonight.

Can someone tell me if the sending unit in the upper left hand corner is stock or does it go with that aftermarket warning buzzer I found?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130701_194728_zps111d38c5.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130701_194728_zps111d38c5.jpg.html)

Thanks, Steve
My sender is not in that location and it doesn't look like what I would consider a "good" location. That is the return for the heater and would have very poor water flow past the sender, especially being on that length of hose. I am pretty sure mine is on the starboard head. I would get you a pic, but my boat is at home and I am on St. George Island until Saturday. Hopefully someone can help out.

It is quite possible that it goes to your buzzer set up, I have no idea. If you have the one on the head and the other that we see on the pump, then it is an add on.

hig
07-03-2013, 12:03 PM
My sender is not in that location and it doesn't look like what I would consider a "good" location. That is the return for the heater and would have very poor water flow past the sender, especially being on that length of hose. I am pretty sure mine is on the starboard head. I would get you a pic, but my boat is at home and I am on St. George Island until Saturday. Hopefully someone can help out.

It is quite possible that it goes to your buzzer set up, I have no idea. If you have the one on the head and the other that we see on the pump, then it is an add on.

I agree that does not seem like a very good location. I don't have the engine back from the machine shop so I can't check what's in the heads.

Thanks, Steve

hig
07-03-2013, 12:16 PM
You are now a master of older Mastercrafts, my son. Use your knowledge wisely.

Seriously, cool job of using the tools at hand to get'er done. Did you get the shaft out?

I'm far from a Master but I have learned a lot from this site and for that I'm very thankful!!

I did remove the shaft and upon closer investigation I see my strut is bent!!

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130702_191917_zps3cad7619.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130702_191917_zps3cad7619.jpg.html)

I was able to get a better look at the shaft log and see that is definately worn thru!!!

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130702_192105_zpsa308f211.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130702_192105_zpsa308f211.jpg.html)


http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130702_192126_zpsc4b27927.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130702_192126_zpsc4b27927.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130702_192244_zps3c02c250.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130702_192244_zps3c02c250.jpg.html)

You can see the shiney wear from the stuffing box packing and the rubbing from the shaft log on the prop shaft. I will be doing some searching of straightening the strut later to see if I can salvage it, if anyone has any good threads to start with I'd appreciate it!!!! Next week I will have the shaft chucked up in a lathe to see if it's bent or not.

Steve

aquaman
07-03-2013, 12:19 PM
Bummer, that strut has been bent for awhile.

Boat is looking much better.

Keep it going.

hig
07-03-2013, 08:06 PM
Well I decided to order the strut from skidim. They can also get a replacement shaft log for $52.XX so I ordered that also. I did a search on straightening the strut and it didn't sound very encouraging, if I needed to tweak it just a little I would have tried but for how much mine looked bent I decided not to chance it. I figured I have enough to keep me busy until the parts arrive.

Steve

FrankSchwab
07-03-2013, 08:17 PM
Ouch.

There are a couple threads on here recently about replacing the shaft log, although most of the were for older DD boats.

hig
07-04-2013, 04:52 PM
Ouch.

There are a couple threads on here recently about replacing the shaft log, although most of the were for older DD boats.

Aren't most DD fiber glassed in? I was very thankful mine came apart very easy. If anyone has to replace the strut or shaft log I'd recommend pulling the motor, it made it so much easier. :)

I was able to remove the bolts from the top with my air impact, I did not have to hold the heads from spinning with a screwdriver, next I tapped the bolts down and out.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_092243_zps25b23e52.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_092243_zps25b23e52.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_092323_zps19456e02.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_092323_zps19456e02.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_092443_zps6b298c5f.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_092443_zps6b298c5f.jpg.html)

I was also glad the strut was not stuck to firmly to the hull with silicone, I tapped it with a rubber mallet and it came right off!!

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_092720_zpsc6530b59.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_092720_zpsc6530b59.jpg.html)

My wife had to hold 2 of the 3 screws in the shaft log, they were spinning on me - I had to use a ratchet on the inside then that came right out.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_092727_zps1225b709.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_092727_zps1225b709.jpg.html)

Does anyone have any easy ways to remove the leftover silicone from the hull or is the finger and finger nail the best way? I could also try a plastic scraper.

I could not believe how bad the strut was bent!!! Pictured also is the worn out shaft log.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_093646_zps7a1880be.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_093646_zps7a1880be.jpg.html)

I'm glad they came out smoothly, now I just have to wait for the new ones to come in!!

Steve

hig
07-04-2013, 05:06 PM
I also picked up my motor from the machine shop!!!!

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_150101_zps0632dc93.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_150101_zps0632dc93.jpg.html)

Today was humid and overcast at points so it was not a very nice day to play, my boys are away at camp any ways so it was a good day to work on the boat!! I started to clean everything up and paint some things for the reassembly. I have all the bolts wire wheeled and cleaned.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_160632_zpsf9c775e7.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130704_160632_zpsf9c775e7.jpg.html)

I also wanted to share this tool, maybe some people do know what it's for but it's for loosening rubber hoses after removing the hose clamp. You carefully stick it between the hose and the metal part and gently work it around until it comes off. They come off so much easier with one of these.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130703_180039_zps688541d4.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130703_180039_zps688541d4.jpg.html)

I also decided to order a new water pump, I figure I might as well do it now, I'd hate to do it once the boat is back together especially being a V-drive and things are tight in there. I order an ACDelco one from Ebay for a 92 Corvette for around $130 shipped.

I'm making progress!!!
Steve

SP Maristar
07-04-2013, 05:12 PM
Great progress hig! I removed silicone from my fiberglass trailer fenders with a plastic scraper and very carefully with a razor blade. A very slow and tedious job.

scharette
07-05-2013, 07:15 AM
Hig,
Very nice thread.
Thanks for all the tips!

JimN
07-05-2013, 07:32 AM
Aren't most DD fiber glassed in? I was very thankful mine came apart very easy. If anyone has to replace the strut or shaft log I'd recommend pulling the motor, it made it so much easier. :)

I was able to remove the bolts from the top with my air impact, I did not have to hold the heads from spinning with a screwdriver, next I tapped the bolts down and out.
RL]

I was also glad the strut was not stuck to firmly to the hull with silicone, I tapped it with a rubber mallet and it came right off!!

My wife had to hold 2 of the 3 screws in the shaft log, they were spinning on me - I had to use a ratchet on the inside then that came right out.

Does anyone have any easy ways to remove the leftover silicone from the hull or is the finger and finger nail the best way? I could also try a plastic scraper.

I could not believe how bad the strut was bent!!! Pictured also is the worn out shaft log.

I'm glad they came out smoothly, now I just have to wait for the new ones to come in!!

Steve

To remove the silicone, use a plastic scraper and remove the leftover using denatured alcohol.

hig
07-14-2013, 08:21 PM
To remove the silicone, use a plastic scraper and remove the leftover using denatured alcohol.

I assumed I had rubbing alcohol, I guess I should have checked first.

I used some scrapers, my fingers and some "oops" and it came off pretty good with a little work.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130713_084206_zps6eae0b61.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130713_084206_zps6eae0b61.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130713_084103_zps844a2806.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130713_084103_zps844a2806.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130713_084035_zpsd790b9cd.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130713_084035_zpsd790b9cd.jpg.html)

I can't believe how far off center the hole for the shaft log is!!!

Steve

hig
07-14-2013, 08:29 PM
Saturday I was able to reinstall the shaft log and strut. I had to grind the one corner of the strut to align it better with the shaft log.

I used 3M marine grade silicone to reinstall the parts.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130714_193726_zps5a824a00.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130714_193726_zps5a824a00.jpg.html)

But more important, I took my other boat to camp today and I slalom skied twice and my younger son slalom skied and wake boarded. I think I'm going to be sore tomorrow!!

Steve

hig
07-17-2013, 09:47 PM
I was able to make some progress on my motor this evening. My cousin, who is a GM mechanic, can over and we torqued the heads, he adjusted the valves then we installed the intake. After he left I worked installing some of the accessories.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130717_191835_zpsdd12065c.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130717_191835_zpsdd12065c.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130717_204713_zps152d8cc6.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130717_204713_zps152d8cc6.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130717_204728_zps9f08c5a5.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130717_204728_zps9f08c5a5.jpg.html)

I'm making little steps forward but I'm moving.

Steve

FrankSchwab
07-17-2013, 11:32 PM
It's great seeing progress - for awhile, it seemed like you were going backwards.

SP Maristar
07-18-2013, 12:02 AM
Nice update hig! I look forward to seeing progress every time there is an update.

hig
07-18-2013, 12:25 PM
It's great seeing progress - for awhile, it seemed like you were going backwards.

Nice update hig! I look forward to seeing progress every time there is an update.

Oh yeah, nothing but progress from here on out!!!

Here a teaser of my side decals Mike made for me, they are replacing the Maristar on the sides.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/photo3_zpsf829ca63.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/photo3_zpsf829ca63.jpg.html)

I can't wait to get them and put them on.

Steve

rkhodges21
07-18-2013, 03:05 PM
Nice thread. Just read through it and I can't wait to see the finished product.

hig
07-18-2013, 03:53 PM
Nice thread. Just read through it and I can't wait to see the finished product.

Thanks, I can't wait either!!!

hig
07-18-2013, 09:34 PM
Well, I ran into another little snag. After installing a replacement water pump I'm having a clearance issues with the bolts and sleeves for the front t-stat mounting bracket.

Please check out the thread:

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?p=958447#post958447

Any advice would be welcomed!!

Steve

hig
07-27-2013, 09:18 PM
The motor is ready to go back into the boat!!!! I can not believe how long it took me to wire it and put all the brackets on. I did not disassemble it, the PO pulled the motor and things were not marked very will. SP Maristar provided me with a lot of photos and his boat that helped tremendously. I found a was missing a few things, the oil pressure sender, some spacers and a few brackets. Skidim has the one throttle clip I was missing and I had a fuel pump bracket made at work.

Here are some pics:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100824_zpsc307854f.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100824_zpsc307854f.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100907_zpsa2f81a08.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100907_zpsa2f81a08.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100928_zps0735653e.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100928_zps0735653e.jpg.html)

I also changes the head water bleeders to the front of the motor (back of the boat):

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100853_zps024e4b83.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100853_zps024e4b83.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100848_zpsc0eae62f.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100848_zpsc0eae62f.jpg.html)

Replacement fuel pump bracket:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100933_zps7a27c4b1.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100933_zps7a27c4b1.jpg.html)

I still need to repack the stuffing box, reassemble the shaft and prop assembly and change the trans seal on the side that meets the motor.

Steve

hig
07-27-2013, 09:21 PM
Do I just plug the fitting on the water pump? My boat does not have a heater or a shower. The PO had an aftermarket temp sender there but I installed it in the head.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100853_zps024e4b83.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100853_zps024e4b83.jpg.html)

Thanks, Steve

hig
07-27-2013, 09:30 PM
I also worked on my dash panels today.

Before:
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130611_181207_zpsd882364b.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130611_181207_zpsd882364b.jpg.html)

After:
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_130053_zpse4782608.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_130053_zpse4782608.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_111451_zps8e02ceb4.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_111451_zps8e02ceb4.jpg.html)

What it would have looked like originally:
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/attachment_zps1c0c0290.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/attachment_zps1c0c0290.jpg.html)

I had the vinyl shop that made the Capacity Stickers make these. I installed them myself, I'm happy with the way it turned out. I wish my old pieces were a little smoother to begin with, I can see some imperfections under the vinyl. I will do more of a write up on it latter in a different thread.

Steve

FrankSchwab
07-29-2013, 12:13 AM
Oh, that dash looks slick! I might have to think about mine...

Smarten
07-29-2013, 12:07 PM
Do I just plug the fitting on the water pump? My boat does not have a heater or a shower. The PO had an aftermarket temp sender there but I installed it in the head.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100853_zps024e4b83.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130727_100853_zps024e4b83.jpg.html)

Thanks, Steve

Steve, AWESOME job. I have the same engine on my 225VRS and that fitting is capped off on mine. Keep up the great work.

Scott

hig
07-29-2013, 08:54 PM
I was able to make up a few wrenches to fit the packing nut (2") and the lock nut (1 7/8"). We have a waterjet a work and I programmed to cut them out of 1/4 stainless steel.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130728_121345_zpsab7235b5.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130728_121345_zpsab7235b5.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130728_121334_zps2ddc045b.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130728_121334_zps2ddc045b.jpg.html)

It's the strangest thing, on both nuts only 2 sets of the sides are the same and one is smaller so the wrench fits snug on 2 of the three sides and lose on one side. Does anyone have any idea of why that would be?

I also cut my packing and inserted that into the nut.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130728_121132_zpsa7b0bb0c.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130728_121132_zpsa7b0bb0c.jpg.html)

Steve

hig
07-29-2013, 08:56 PM
Steve, AWESOME job. I have the same engine on my 225VRS and that fitting is capped off on mine. Keep up the great work.

Scott

Thank you for the compliment and the information.

Steve

Table Rocker
07-29-2013, 09:53 PM
Looking good! Those wrenches are very cool. Get ready for the order requests to flow in. Nice work and something you can be proud of.

JimN
07-29-2013, 09:59 PM
I was able to make up a few wrenches to fit the packing nut (2") and the lock nut (1 7/8"). We have a waterjet a work and I programmed to cut them out of 1/4 stainless steel.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130728_121345_zpsab7235b5.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130728_121345_zpsab7235b5.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130728_121334_zps2ddc045b.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130728_121334_zps2ddc045b.jpg.html)

It's the strangest thing, on both nuts only 2 sets of the sides are the same and one is smaller so the wrench fits snug on 2 of the three sides and lose on one side. Does anyone have any idea of why that would be?

I also cut my packing and inserted that into the nut.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130728_121132_zpsa7b0bb0c.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130728_121132_zpsa7b0bb0c.jpg.html)

Steve

Oh, sure- take the easy way and make your wrenches! The rest of us had to scrounge for the crappy ones that are sold by Snap On and other dealers.

Why didn't you just buy some?

hig
07-30-2013, 06:57 AM
Oh, sure- take the easy way and make your wrenches! The rest of us had to scrounge for the crappy ones that are sold by Snap On and other dealers.

Why didn't you just buy some?

I figured I've spent enough money on Snap-on and S&K tools, should I have Snap-On engraved on them? :D

JimN
07-30-2013, 09:08 AM
I figured I've spent enough money on Snap-on and S&K tools, should I have Snap-On engraved on them? :D

You could engrave your name in them, too. Maybe, with a small picture of yourself and "Have You Seen Me, Lately?" below.

jsturvey
08-02-2013, 12:26 PM
Hey hig, I know this is from a couple pages back in this thread, but where did you find you replacement cup holders at? The ones in my boat are cracked at the rim as well was wondering about how to go about fixing / replacing them. For a while, I was thinking about using stainless steel cup holders, but that would not match up well with the colors on this boat.

hig
08-02-2013, 12:37 PM
Hey hig, I know this is from a couple pages back in this thread, but where did you find you replacement cup holders at? The ones in my boat are cracked at the rim as well was wondering about how to go about fixing / replacing them. For a while, I was thinking about using stainless steel cup holders, but that would not match up well with the colors on this boat.

I bought them off of Ebay. Here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/PLASTIC-TAN-BOAT-CUP-HOLDERS-PAIR-2-CUPS-W-FREE-SHIP-/140582182360?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20bb59ddd8) is the actual item and here (http://stores.ebay.com/CupHoldersOnline?_trksid=p2047675.l2563) is the seller I bought them from but just do a search for boat cup holders.

I hope that helps,
Steve

jsturvey
08-02-2013, 03:04 PM
I bought them off of Ebay. Here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/PLASTIC-TAN-BOAT-CUP-HOLDERS-PAIR-2-CUPS-W-FREE-SHIP-/140582182360?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20bb59ddd8) is the actual item and here (http://stores.ebay.com/CupHoldersOnline?_trksid=p2047675.l2563) is the seller I bought them from but just do a search for boat cup holders.

I hope that helps,
Steve

Definitely gives me a place to start. Thanks! What did us use to, for lack of a better word, glue the cup holders in on the rear seat?

Joe

hig
08-02-2013, 08:06 PM
Definitely gives me a place to start. Thanks! What did us use to, for lack of a better word, glue the cup holders in on the rear seat?

Joe

That's funny, I haven't got that far yet!! When I removed my old ones they looked like they where held in with some black glue so I'm not sure what I'm going to use.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130505_154635_zps72c1cbb7.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130505_154635_zps72c1cbb7.jpg.html)

Any suggestions????

Steve

jsturvey
08-02-2013, 09:36 PM
I'd be curious about that myself. The first thing that comes to mind is 5200. Would like to know what they used at the factory. Its lasted 15 years and despite the rims cracking, the bond between the vinyl and the plastic cup holder still seems very strong. PL glue maybe?

FrankSchwab
08-02-2013, 09:55 PM
When I replaced mine, I just pushed the new ones down in the hole. No muss, no fuss.

mdskier
08-03-2013, 10:02 AM
I replaced mine with the stainless steel variety a few years ago and love them. Something like this - http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-Stainless-Steel-Cup-Drink-Holder-Marine-Boat-RV-Camper-/230848521992?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item35bfa4e708&vxp=mtr

I did the same, just pushed them in place no glue. Easy to clean that way and no risk of getting adhesive where I don't want it.

hig
08-04-2013, 08:37 PM
Well, the motor is in and running!! I started it quickly yesterday and had good oil pressure but I did not have the muffler installed. Today after installing that I started it and ran it for a few minutes, oil pressure was great and it sounded good but my idle was fluctuating up and down (surging). I'm hoping my cousin can come over this week and take a look at it with me, maybe it's as simple as the computer setting it's self up.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130804_191211_zps72a02daa.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130804_191211_zps72a02daa.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130804_191153_zpsbd38cb8e.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130804_191153_zpsbd38cb8e.jpg.html)

I also aligned the propshaft, the trans is over to the port side quite a bit but I was able to get everything aligned up and it looks good going thru the shaft log.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130804_191225_zps280e4589.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130804_191225_zps280e4589.jpg.html)

I am concerned about my fuel pump, it was froze up then I first tried it but after a few tries it started spinning but it seems very loud, I want to double check the fuel pressure to make sure that's working okay.

I still need to double check for leaks, get the idle straightened out, reassemble the dash and put the side decals on. I'm getting there.

Steve

hig
08-04-2013, 08:39 PM
Is this the stock pitch/size prop for my maristar?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130804_174550_zps961feba5.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130804_174550_zps961feba5.jpg.html)

Thanks, Steve

JimN
08-04-2013, 09:22 PM
Well, the motor is in and running!! I started it quickly yesterday and had good oil pressure but I did not have the muffler installed. Today after installing that I started it and ran it for a few minutes, oil pressure was great and it sounded good but my idle was fluctuating up and down (surging). I'm hoping my cousin can come over this week and take a look at it with me, maybe it's as simple as the computer setting it's self up.

I also aligned the propshaft, the trans is over to the port side quite a bit but I was able to get everything aligned up and it looks good going thru the shaft log.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130804_191225_zps280e4589.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130804_191225_zps280e4589.jpg.html)

I am concerned about my fuel pump, it was froze up then I first tried it but after a few tries it started spinning but it seems very loud, I want to double check the fuel pressure to make sure that's working okay.

I still need to double check for leaks, get the idle straightened out, reassemble the dash and put the side decals on. I'm getting there.

Steve

What is the white PVC elbow for? Are you using a quick disconnect for the fresh water? That hole looks far too small to do any good for cooling. That needs to be at least the full 1-1/4" I.D. for it to pass enough water.

hig
08-05-2013, 07:05 AM
What is the white PVC elbow for? Are you using a quick disconnect for the fresh water? That hole looks far too small to do any good for cooling. That needs to be at least the full 1-1/4" I.D. for it to pass enough water.

Jim,

Yes, I am using a garden hose to feed the fresh water and that is a quick disconnect. What are my options for running the boat out of the water, early on in this thread Frank said some people draw water from a 5 gallon pail that is being refilled with a garden hose that seems like it would run out of water if the hose couldn't keep up.

What are my options, I'd love to be able to run it for an extended period of time to get some of the bugs out before I take it to the water? Does it matter if it's just idling or if it's running higher RPM's whether it is enough cooling or not.

Thanks, Steve

JimN
08-05-2013, 07:17 AM
Jim,

Yes, I am using a garden hose to feed the fresh water and that is a quick disconnect. What are my options for running the boat out of the water, early on in this thread Frank said some people draw water from a 5 gallon pail that is being refilled with a garden hose that seems like it would run out of water if the hose couldn't keep up.

What are my options, I'd love to be able to run it for an extended period of time to get some of the bugs out before I take it to the water? Does it matter if it's just idling or if it's running higher RPM's whether it is enough cooling or not.

Thanks, Steve

If the hose can't keep up with 5 extra gallons, how would it keep up if it's the only source of water? I have seen some engines pull 5 gallons with the hose supplying lots of additional water just on start-up, without revving it to higher RPM and it's not necessarily a long-term dry run, but insufficient water will damage the exhaust hoses if it runs long enough. If you want to run it at higher RPM, you'll need a larger container. A 20 gallon trash can works well for this- just make sure to monitor the water level.

If it was my boat, I would use a container that holds at least 10 gallons, with a hose of the same diameter as the one from the hull fitting to the oil cooler or raw water pump. Fewer fittings in the way means it will cause less problems. I understand wanting to be able to just turn a valve, but it takes part of a minute to attach a hose to run it on the trailer. Yeah, it can be a PITA to remove all of the stuff that's in the way of getting to the hose, but it works far better and would give me the peace of mind I want.

One piece of 1-1/4" hose, one hose clamp, a shut-off valve for the hose and maybe a short section to go from inside the boat to the container. If you have a water cooler and don't mind paying for an empty jug, use a hole saw to cut a hole for the 1-1/4" hose and stick the garden hose into the top, or vise-versa. Put some tarp repair tape on the top of the gunwale to keep the hoses from scratching and if you want to keep the hoses from moving, tape them in place before getting anything wet. It's cheap, easy and it works.

jsturvey
08-05-2013, 09:03 AM
Is this the stock pitch/size prop for my maristar?

Thanks, Steve

That's the same prop spec that is on mine, so I would say yes it is stock.

hig
08-05-2013, 12:29 PM
If the hose can't keep up with 5 extra gallons, how would it keep up if it's the only source of water? I have seen some engines pull 5 gallons with the hose supplying lots of additional water just on start-up, without revving it to higher RPM and it's not necessarily a long-term dry run, but insufficient water will damage the exhaust hoses if it runs long enough. If you want to run it at higher RPM, you'll need a larger container. A 20 gallon trash can works well for this- just make sure to monitor the water level.

If it was my boat, I would use a container that holds at least 10 gallons, with a hose of the same diameter as the one from the hull fitting to the oil cooler or raw water pump. Fewer fittings in the way means it will cause less problems. I understand wanting to be able to just turn a valve, but it takes part of a minute to attach a hose to run it on the trailer. Yeah, it can be a PITA to remove all of the stuff that's in the way of getting to the hose, but it works far better and would give me the peace of mind I want.

One piece of 1-1/4" hose, one hose clamp, a shut-off valve for the hose and maybe a short section to go from inside the boat to the container. If you have a water cooler and don't mind paying for an empty jug, use a hole saw to cut a hole for the 1-1/4" hose and stick the garden hose into the top, or vise-versa. Put some tarp repair tape on the top of the gunwale to keep the hoses from scratching and if you want to keep the hoses from moving, tape them in place before getting anything wet. It's cheap, easy and it works.

Thank you, I will put something together tonight and let you know what I come up with. So it's more than the engine temp I need to be concerned with it's getting the rubber hoses too hot that go to the muffler and out of the boat?

Thanks again, Steve

hig
08-08-2013, 12:13 PM
So much for not having anymore setbacks!!! The boat is running and the engine sounds good EXCEPT for a whine!!! Well I found it was the new waterpump (car style pump not the raw water pump) I installed that was making the noise, I have another one on order. Guess it's a set back but not the end of the world. :( I am getting worried that I'm running out of summer.

It sound good from the back until I get around to the engine compartment.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/th_20130805_183411_zpsc4e6b9b4.jpg (http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130805_183411_zpsc4e6b9b4.mp4)

Steve

hig
08-08-2013, 12:23 PM
If the hose can't keep up with 5 extra gallons, how would it keep up if it's the only source of water? I have seen some engines pull 5 gallons with the hose supplying lots of additional water just on start-up, without revving it to higher RPM and it's not necessarily a long-term dry run, but insufficient water will damage the exhaust hoses if it runs long enough. If you want to run it at higher RPM, you'll need a larger container. A 20 gallon trash can works well for this- just make sure to monitor the water level.

If it was my boat, I would use a container that holds at least 10 gallons, with a hose of the same diameter as the one from the hull fitting to the oil cooler or raw water pump. Fewer fittings in the way means it will cause less problems. I understand wanting to be able to just turn a valve, but it takes part of a minute to attach a hose to run it on the trailer. Yeah, it can be a PITA to remove all of the stuff that's in the way of getting to the hose, but it works far better and would give me the peace of mind I want.

One piece of 1-1/4" hose, one hose clamp, a shut-off valve for the hose and maybe a short section to go from inside the boat to the container. If you have a water cooler and don't mind paying for an empty jug, use a hole saw to cut a hole for the 1-1/4" hose and stick the garden hose into the top, or vise-versa. Put some tarp repair tape on the top of the gunwale to keep the hoses from scratching and if you want to keep the hoses from moving, tape them in place before getting anything wet. It's cheap, easy and it works.

I ended up getting a 30 gallon drum from work and I had some 1 1/2" hose left over from the pool that i reduced down to 1 1/4" and connected that to the raw water pump. I feed the barrel with my garden hose as it was running and was surprized how fast the barrel went down. Just ideling with a few revs in a minute or two it was almost to the bottom of the barrel.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130805_183056_zps292a5ceb.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130805_183056_zps292a5ceb.jpg.html)

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130805_183103_zpsaba4ba03.jpg (http://s871.photobucket.com/user/hig69/media/98%20Mastercraft/20130805_183103_zpsaba4ba03.jpg.html)

Thanks, Steve

FrankSchwab
08-08-2013, 01:54 PM
That's why the best suggestion I've heard is the plastic kiddy pool. Place it under the exhausts to catch the water coming out, put a garden hose in it to keep it topped off, and run a hose up to the raw water pump. You should be able to run for 10-20 minutes at a time - just make sure to shut it down before the water gets hot enough to melt the pool!

hig
09-04-2013, 12:09 PM
I haven't updated in a while. I put the boat in the water a few weeks ago and while on the trailer still I tried the trans in forward and reverse and at idle, in gear it sounded bad!!!

Click to watch video
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/th_20130824_094708_zps271916ee.jpg (http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130824_094708_zps271916ee.mp4)

I'm planning on pulling the trans and double checking the dampner plate/flywheel and probably splitting the trans to see if anything looks wrong but that will be next spring. Our summer is basically over for us since the kids are back in school.

I winterized the boat yeasterday and will be looking for a place to store it. I wish I had got it running and on the water but I enjoyed learning about the boat the cleaning it up.

TO BE COBTINUED!!!

I just want to say Thanks for all the knowledge that was shared, I could not have imagined doing it without this site!!!

Thanks again, Steve

FrankSchwab
09-04-2013, 12:27 PM
Hey, you've got all winter to work on that trans - get it outta the boat before you cover everything up for the Winter!

This has been a marvelous thread to follow, even though I'm sure it's been painful for you having to go through everything you've gone through. A lot of useful information for our era of boats has been condensed into this one thread. I wish you'd been able to get it running and breaking waves at least once this summer, but I guess that'll have to wait for next year.

Good luck,

/frank

SP Maristar
09-04-2013, 01:11 PM
Sorry i wasn't able to post my trans video quick enough. Let's just say that after watching your video and hearing my trans, i think pulling it is a good plan. You got a lot of work done in a short amount of time. Spring should be fun after some winter time trans refurb.

bluebicycle100
12-10-2013, 09:25 PM
Wow I just found this .. I purchased a 98 200VRS this last June and I am almost through with fixing up the mechanicals and repairing the hull. I have a suggestion for anyone on a shaft seal . OJ props makes a feat shaft seal water cooled...

bluebicycle100
12-10-2013, 09:27 PM
Here is the link incase anyone needs it....http://www.ojprops.com/products