PDA

View Full Version : Just bought a 1979 starts and stripes :)


Durham4416
05-06-2013, 10:55 AM
Hi just came across this forum, I'm in the uk, we recently bought a Stars and Stripes before the winter and winterised it as soon as we bought it so haven't had chance to take it out till last weekend, at first it ran beautifully but after an hour or so we encountered a couple of problems so thought I'd put them to the experts

The engine ran fine for about an hour then stared misfiring then it wouldn't start, once we got home we ran it up on a hose and it seemed ok, we are going to change the plugs as they look quite old and when we checked them a couple where only finger tight, hopefully a set of plugs will cure it, if not where would you look next, I assume its electrical

The other thing is we think its taking in a bit to much water, we expect from where the prop shaft exits the boat although we didn't lift the back hatch up to see so we need to dunk it again to double check, if that's the problem does the engine need to be removed?

Here's a couple of pictures how we bought it, we are planning on a full restore but would like to sort the important things first so we can get some skiing in :) thanks in advance, here's some pics

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr308/durham4416/445BD861-C378-462B-9EC8-AB37BCE5D180-1904-0000014C72ADF5CB.jpg

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr308/durham4416/7A0DEECA-57ED-4579-880D-8551D193D364-1904-0000014C65693C4F.jpg

thatsmrmastercraft
05-06-2013, 11:14 AM
Congrats on buying a great boat and welcome to Team Talk. Your boat looks very similar to my '77 when I first got it.

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=94551&stc=1&d=1367853191

Loose plugs will definitely affect the performance. Take a look at the distributor cap and rotor....they probably need to replaced as well.

Fuel quality will also play an issue. The sooner you get that old gas worked through, the better.

You may just need to adjust the prop shaft coupler. If the the leak is the prop shaft packing, you can get replacement here. http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1118

SSMoose
05-06-2013, 11:35 AM
You bought a nice boat. It's good to see these older ones get the makeover that they deserve. Good luck and keep us informed on the progress. You have been pointed in the right direction by Peter, so no need to comment further from me on that.

Durham4416
05-06-2013, 01:00 PM
Thanks :) how do I adjust the prop shaft coupler and how difficult is it to repack, do I not need to renove the engine to extract the prop or does the prop not need removing? We hope to get it out on the water next weekend so hopefully a new set of plugs will sort it, the engine had a lot of work including a new sump a couple of years ago and the distributor looks quite new, I do think its leaking oil though so will have to look into that, any common places for these blocks to leak?

thatsmrmastercraft
05-06-2013, 01:20 PM
Adjusting the coupler does not require engine removal. Someone with experience will have to give some advice on that as my boat had all new running gear on it when I got it. It is stuffed with the gore-tex packing so very little water makes it through.

The most common oil leaks are from the rear main seal and valve cover gaskets.

Have a look inside the distributor to see if it still has points of someone installed electronic ignition. If it still has points, you will at least need to check the dwell to be sure it's right.

Out of curiosity, where in the UK are you?

strad
05-06-2013, 01:20 PM
Shaft packing is not too hard. engine does not need to be removed, but you will need to undo the trans-shaft coupling and remove the flange from the shaft so that you can slide the packing gland up and off the shaft. Once it's off you can replace the packing. Take a good look at the hose behind the shaft packing -- now is the time to replace it if it needs replacing.

Once you put it back in the water, take some wrenches with you so you can adjust the packing for the specified number of drips per minute. I used the nearly dripless packing on mine.

edit: it may be possible to replace the packing without removal of the flange. I don't know how that would be done. On mine, the boat had had a prop strike and bent the shaft so we had to take it out anyways.

jmorone
05-06-2013, 01:41 PM
Might consider checking the fuel tank to see if there is water in the bottom of the tank. If so remove and start with fresh gasoline.

tph
05-06-2013, 01:49 PM
I found this to be very useful:
http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=159060&postcount=31

Durham4416
05-10-2013, 01:56 PM
Hi does any body know what the gaps should be on the points in the distributor?

thatsmrmastercraft
05-10-2013, 03:40 PM
Hi does any body know what the gaps should be on the points in the distributor?

Point gap is .017 and dwell is 26-31.

Durham4416
05-11-2013, 01:31 PM
Hi how do I measure the dwell? Cheers

thatsmrmastercraft
05-11-2013, 01:37 PM
Hi how do I measure the dwell? Cheers

You need a dwell meter. They are relatively inexpensive.

http://meridiusllc.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/tach-dwell-meter.jpg

Connect the black lead to ground (earth across the pond I believe) and the green lead to the negative side of the coil. Adjusting the point gap changes the dwell. It is sort of a hit of miss thing to get it just right. Doesn't take long to get the hang of it.

Durham4416
05-11-2013, 02:55 PM
This is the best forum I have been on lol, thank you

thatsmrmastercraft
05-11-2013, 03:07 PM
This is the best forum I have been on lol, thank you

Glad to have you here. Post up some pics of your boat when you get a chance.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
05-11-2013, 03:21 PM
You need a dwell meter. They are relatively inexpensive.

http://meridiusllc.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/tach-dwell-meter.jpg

Connect the black lead to ground (earth across the pond I believe) and the green lead to the negative side of the coil. Adjusting the point gap changes the dwell. It is sort of a hit of miss thing to get it just right. Doesn't take long to get the hang of it.

Yes they are pretty cheap I think I paid $30 for this same meter, also make sure you recheck the base timing when done adjusting gap and dwell and also don't forget to double check dwell reading with the engine running.