PDA

View Full Version : 96 LT1 water pump leak at weep hole


mgs96ps
05-03-2013, 09:31 PM
Hello TeamTalk Members,

Can anyone lead me to a thread on the subject and/or offer advice about the task?

Thanks for your help.

mgs96ps

supreme112279
05-03-2013, 09:37 PM
pump will require replacement. you can get a new opne at the local autoparts store. I replaced mine a month ago

mgs96ps
05-03-2013, 09:48 PM
Any troubles? Cost?

Table Rocker
05-03-2013, 09:48 PM
The water pump for a '92 Corvette will be the same as the one on your boat. You can rebuild your pump, but it doesn't cost much more to get a pump at the part store.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=47547

supreme112279
05-03-2013, 09:51 PM
very straight foward, 135 dollars. I had to replace the temp sending unit cause I couldnt get the old one out of the bad pump

mgs96ps
05-03-2013, 10:03 PM
You guys are awesome. Thank you!

To all others...please keep sending posts on the subject. Pictures would be awesome. These are the times I am so glad that I have a direct drive.

Table Rocker
05-03-2013, 10:10 PM
Here is a thread on LT-1 cooling:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=31626

You might check and see if your head steam vents have been moved to the front. Also, does your boat have a heater? You can buy a water pump with a heater port on the front that will provide hotter water.

mgs96ps
05-03-2013, 10:23 PM
No heater on my boat. Not sure about steam vents.

Table Rocker
05-03-2013, 10:26 PM
No heater on my boat. Not sure about steam vents.
'92 Corvette pump is what you need then.

ricford
05-04-2013, 06:29 PM
'92 Corvette pump is what you need then.

If you buy the automotive pump it will have an output and input for the heater. You will have to buy a short piece of heater hose and clamps to join the two together. That's what I did. It was a pretty straight forward job. No real problems to deal with. While you're in there you might as well replace the 165 degree thermostat as well. If you buy an automotive one you'll have to drill a bypass hole in it. I couldn't get the marine version in time, so that's what I did. You're probably better off to buy the marine version if you can get a hold of one. Also, if your boat is a 96 don't you need a 96 Corvette pump?

Table Rocker
05-04-2013, 06:52 PM
If you buy the automotive pump it will have an output and input for the heater. You will have to buy a short piece of heater hose and clamps to join the two together. That's what I did. It was a pretty straight forward job. No real problems to deal with. While you're in there you might as well replace the 165 degree thermostat as well. If you buy an automotive one you'll have to drill a bypass hole in it. I couldn't get the marine version in time, so that's what I did. You're probably better off to buy the marine version if you can get a hold of one. Also, if your boat is a 96 don't you need a 96 Corvette pump?The water pump for the '92 Corvette has the same fittings as my '96 Indmar. '93 or later has heater pipes on the front.
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvette-water-pump-lt1-1992.html

My boat has a heater and the return is under and behind the engine/water pump thermostat. I don't know what the non-heater boats have on that fitting, but the fitting is there on the Indmar replacement pump. You can see the shiny fitting on this pic:
http://www.waterskis.com/12529560-p/circulating_water_pump_lt1.htm

Table Rocker
05-04-2013, 07:11 PM
ricford, what was on the heater return on your factory pump?

ricford
05-04-2013, 08:20 PM
My boat originally came with a heater, but it was leaking so the PO had just shut off the spigot. The factory pump looked like the one you posted. Wish I had known about the 92 pump at the time, sooner or later I'll likely replace the heater.

ricford
05-04-2013, 08:22 PM
I don't think it has the temperature sensor on it though.

Table Rocker
05-04-2013, 08:27 PM
I don't think it has the temperature sensor on it though.All the pumps are drilled and tapped at the same location (lower right) for the temp sender.

mgs96ps
05-04-2013, 11:58 PM
Many thanks. Please keep posting. Also, did anyone change the shaft seal and/or coupler seal when changing the water pump. Looks like you need special tool to replace shaft seal.

Is 165 degree thermostat the right temp? Can anyone provide a part number?

Table Rocker
05-05-2013, 12:12 AM
Many thanks. Please keep posting. Also, did anyone change the shaft seal and/or coupler seal when changing the water pump. Looks like you need special tool to replace shaft seal.
I had a little oil leak there and replaced the seal. A special tool is not mandatory, but would be helpful. The seal is thin and fragile so you really have to be careful. I used various sockets from a 1/4" drive set to stretch the seal gradually. I got mine on without tearing it up, but it was tedious. This is the tool:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-97-GM-L99-and-LT1-Water-Pump-Drive-Seal-Installation-Tool-New-/330860004305?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item4d08cb03d1&vxp=mtr
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-97-GM-L99-and-LT1-Water-Pump-Drive-Seal-Installation-Tool-New-/330860004305?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item4d08cb03d1&vxp=mtr)
The job isn't too bad. You have to buy the full timing cover kit to get the water pump drive seal, so I went ahead and changed the front crank seal as well. If you Google it, there are plenty of write ups from the LT-1 auto groups.

This is the thermostat:
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=98-6034

supreme112279
05-05-2013, 12:24 AM
go to www.skidim.com for the thermostate get a 140 degree not a 165. i didnt replace mine when i changed the pump

Engine Nut
05-05-2013, 12:10 PM
go to www.skidim.com for the thermostate get a 140 degree not a 165. i didnt replace mine when i changed the pump

The raw water cooled LT1 has 2 thermostats. The one that goes in the circulating pump is a 160 that has a bypass hole drilled in it (P/N 986034). The other one is a 140 that goes under a triangular shaped cover on the front of the engine (P/N 985005). You can get them from inboardonline.com.

mgs96ps
05-05-2013, 12:15 PM
On the shaft seal, correct me if I am wrong:

-Black seal should be toward block and flipped toward block
-Yellow seal should be away from block and flipped out away from block

When flipping seals:

-flip black first with special tool or socket
-flip yellow second

This makes me think that the black seal is slightly larger than yellow and will not reverse when push onto shaft.

Table Rocker
05-05-2013, 02:49 PM
On the shaft seal, correct me if I am wrong:

-Black seal should be toward block and flipped toward block
-Yellow seal should be away from block and flipped out away from block

When flipping seals:

-flip black first with special tool or socket
-flip yellow second

This makes me think that the black seal is slightly larger than yellow and will not reverse when push onto shaft.
Earlier, I thought you were talking about the oil seal where the pump drive shaft comes out of the timing cover. That is what I replaced. There is info on this site about replacing the seals in the raw water pump, but I have no experience with it.

mgs96ps
05-05-2013, 03:07 PM
Earlier, I thought you were talking about the oil seal where the pump drive shaft comes out of the timing cover. That is what I replaced. There is info on this site about replacing the seals in the raw water pump, but I have no experience with it.

Table Rocker....earlier thought was correct. I am talking about seal at the shaft.

Table Rocker
05-05-2013, 03:17 PM
Table Rocker....earlier thought was correct. I am talking about seal at the shaft.
Okay, my own confusion. Yes, the yellow seal goes towards the front and the yellow seal is the fragile part. I was able to work them a little larger with the sockets and then inserted the shaft coupler into the seal. I then used the shaft coupler to help put the seal on. Having a little oil on it helps too.

Just being able to work with the seal in your hand was the key. Trying to stretch the seal and drive it into the timing cover at the same time would be nearly impossible.

Table Rocker
05-05-2013, 03:24 PM
Here is a thread with some good pics.
http://www.impalasuperstore.com/naisso/Forum2009/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30984

mgs96ps
05-12-2013, 02:48 PM
Received all of my new parts to fix weep hole leak. New pump from ecklers corvette, which I painted black. New temp sending unit and replacing both thermostats, with o-ring for 160T and various other gaskets and/or seals. Still need to purchase triangular gasket for 140T. A little concerned about changing double lipped seal at cam that drives pump as I do not have special tool.

mgs96ps
05-12-2013, 03:43 PM
Here is a picture showing weep hole on new pump. When pump is failing, water from this hole drips on front pulley and belt splattering water everywhere...including all over dog house sound insulation. However the biggest concern is that leak will possibly drip into opti-spark body causing additional failures. D-day to change pump is coming weekend.

Barring any unforeseen issues....."checkmate" weep hole.

Table Rocker
05-12-2013, 04:09 PM
Received all of my new parts to fix weep hole leak. New pump from ecklers corvette, which I painted black. New temp sending unit and replacing both thermostats, with o-ring for 160T and various other gaskets and/or seals. Still need to purchase triangular gasket for 140T. A little concerned about changing double lipped seal at cam that drives pump as I do not have special tool.
Looking good! Where did you find the drive shaft seal by itself, Ecklers? Just take your time and work the seal over the coupler and use the coupler as the installation tool. I used some sockets to loosen it up first and it worked out okay.

Table Rocker
05-12-2013, 04:10 PM
Here is a picture showing weep hole on new pump. When pump is failing, water from this hole drips on front pulley and belt splattering water everywhere...including all over dog house sound insulation. However the biggest concern is that leak will possibly drip into opti-spark body causing additional failures. D-day to change pump is coming weekend.

Barring any unforeseen issues....."checkmate" weep hole.
I'm glad we don't have the opti-spark issues to deal with.

mgs96ps
05-12-2013, 04:29 PM
Looking good! Where did you find the drive shaft seal by itself, Ecklers? Just take your time and work the seal over the coupler and use the coupler as the installation tool. I used some sockets to loosen it up first and it worked out okay.

From Ecklers:
-Water pump with (2) gaskets and drive gear seal (black)
-temp sending unit
-double lipped seal
-coupler seal (gold color)

From auto parts store:
-o-ring for 160T

From inboard online:
-both thermostats

Table Rocker
05-12-2013, 04:34 PM
From Ecklers:
-Water pump with (2) gaskets and drive gear seal (black)
-temp sending unit
-double lipped seal
-coupler seal (gold color)

From auto parts store:
-o-ring for 160T

[B][U]From inboard online:
-both thermostatsIf you tear the seal up, you can get the timing cover set from your local auto parts shop for about $11 (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/FEL0/TCS45956/02309.oap?year=1996&make=Chevrolet&model=Corvette&vi=1041400&ck=Search_timing+cover+gaskets%21s%21seals_1041400 _4075&keyword=timing+cover+gaskets%21s%21seals).

mgs96ps
05-12-2013, 04:50 PM
Table Rocker

Below is the gasket maker that I chose for locations:

-pump to block (also with paper gaskets)
-temp sending unit threads
-at least two lower pump bolts
-140 T housing (also with paper gasket)
-160 T...I will be using o-ring only

I know that you said that you use something different in my thermostat thread. Do you see any issues with what I have and where I will be using it?

Table Rocker
05-12-2013, 04:56 PM
Table Rocker

Below is the gasket maker that I chose for locations:

-pump to block (also with paper gaskets)
-temp sending unit threads
-at least to lower pump bolts
-140 T housing (also with paper gasket
-160 T...I will be using o-ring only

I know that you said that you use something different in my thermostat thread. Do you see any issues with what I have and where I will be using it?That's the stuff, RTV blue. Less is more in my opinion. Smear a little on and then wipe as much as possible off.

Clean the block up really well. I use a single edge razor blade.

mgs96ps
05-19-2013, 12:54 PM
I took Friday off from work a had an awesome day with my baby. A little more history about me. First time MC owner, bought 96 ProStar 190 with LT1, 1:1 Hurse transmission in February...no water test at time, but looked over the boat very well after doing research on what to look for. Negotiated 2K off price, and after replacing waterpump over the weekend, I have now completed the full water test and found out that everything works perfectly right down to the storage compartment light; additionally, absolutely no problems with trailer during travel and/or loading and unloading. Extended the day with family enjoying an evening ride on a perfect May night. Needless to say, I am trilled with the purchase! I am well aware that their are newer boats with better wakes for boarding...but this baby is mine, its paid for and says MasterCraft on both sided and back and I did not spend even 11K. Hour meter at 380.

I was pulled over by the lake patrol, but after our opening pleasantries, I pulled open the dog house and spent the next 15 minutes becoming best friends as he just loved the LT1 powerplant. I received two more compliment the same day. I/O owners know that there is a difference even when the boat is 17 years old. Boat runs like a Ferrari on the water and corners at any speed where you can definitely feel g-forces kicking in. I am a little confused how P.O. let water pump go to fail as there where signs of the water leak down front of engine block. However, everything swapped out with new, including T stats. More posts to follow.

Additional things completed. (3) wax jobs including light oxidation remover, polish and wax. Oil and filter, transmission fluid, sparks, K&N filter cleaned, impeller and other miscellaneous preventative maintenance things. It has been said, "that half the fun of owning a top tier tow boat, is working on it." I agree!

mgs96ps
05-19-2013, 01:26 PM
Attached is the old pump that was removed, my tear down and completion photos. The pump is absolutely shot, obviously the previous owner did not want to deal with it and just bought a new boat. He probably did not have any left handed screw drivers. I can't dog him too much as I inherited a very well maintained MasterCraft, I guess some guys just like to go with newer.

More on the pump, you can take your index finger with your thumb and spin drive shaft and count almost 10 rotations. Unbelievable. I hope he is not the TT member. :o

ricford
05-19-2013, 07:59 PM
Nice job, and nice boat. (I have a 96 prostar LT1 as well and LOVE it) That pump was definitely past its best before date.

mgs96ps
05-19-2013, 09:52 PM
Thanks for the post ricford. Gathering a lot of information being a new TT member! I have learned that I should consider moving my steam vents from back to front as that has never been done to my boat. Also, boat seems to pull a little to the right when I let go of wheel. Have you ever made any adjustments to correct anything like that?

Table Rocker
05-19-2013, 10:08 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=95241&stc=1&d=1368984390
Looking good, I would say you aced it.

mgs96ps
05-19-2013, 10:18 PM
TableRocker,

Thanks for the bode of confidence. I must say that you were a big help with your reply's to this thread. Also, I just realized that I went from a TT newbie to TT regular. Now that seems fitting after the water pump swap.

MBrandt-TT
05-19-2013, 11:03 PM
Mgs looks like we have the same trailer. Just went in on a '95 190 w/LT1 with a couple of guys and have a new water pump in the truck waiting to be installed. We will be reading this thread before getting into it.

mgs96ps
05-19-2013, 11:16 PM
MBrandt

Awesome to hear. Thread seems to have laid it out very well. TableRocker a big help. Feels good to be part of something that may help someone else get over a hurtle. MC owners unite! With a couple of buddy's in on it...you should be able to really post some good pictures of the swap. I wanted to take more pictures but I was all by myself. I think that I will rebuild old pump and have it ready on alert 5.

mgs96ps
05-19-2013, 11:33 PM
MBrandt

Watch the attached video link...(car addition) but it does have good information that you can use. Guy in video is diffidently a grease monkey and a little rough in his procedures...but you can learn a few things. The opti-spark part of the (4) videos does not apply, but still worth watching.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwDuoebEAJE

MBrandt-TT
05-20-2013, 12:00 AM
I'm seeing TableRocker is going to be a valuable resource on the LT-1. I've had 13 promo boats so oil changes and end of the season impeller is all I would have to do. It's been fun having more to work on.

ricford
05-20-2013, 10:11 AM
Thanks for the post ricford. Gathering a lot of information being a new TT member! I have learned that I should consider moving my steam vents from back to front as that has never been done to my boat. Also, boat seems to pull a little to the right when I let go of wheel. Have you ever made any adjustments to correct anything like that?

I'm a relatively newby here myself. Had boats all my life, but this is my first direct drive so I'm learning a lot, too.
I've read some posts about moving the steam vents too, but besides replacing my circulating pump, I've never had a cooling problem so haven't done anything about it.
The steering pull is supposed to be there. It makes it easier to track straight, otherwise you get slight right left action. There are posts on here about filing the edge of the rudder to adjust it, but I'm really happy with the handling and wouldn't want to mess anything up. As long as it is only a slight pull, that's what it should be.

Table Rocker
05-20-2013, 10:34 AM
MBrandt

Awesome to hear. Thread seems to have laid it out very well. TableRocker a big help. Feels good to be part of something that may help someone else get over a hurtle. MC owners unite! With a couple of buddy's in on it...you should be able to really post some good pictures of the swap. I wanted to take more pictures but I was all by myself. I think that I will rebuild old pump and have it ready on alert 5.
Glad to be able to help. The LT-1 water pump is my only area of expertise, so I am glad to have the opportunity to look like I know what I am doing.