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View Full Version : Some numbers and mods I learned though the years on my 1990 prostar 190


Wouter
05-03-2013, 08:30 AM
1990 Prostar 190 / Ford/Indmar 351w GT40P:

length : 19' 0" = 5.79 m
width : 80" =2.032 m
weight w/o fuel:2.200 lbs = 998 kg
fuel capacity: 25 gall = 94.6 l
engine oil: sae 30 /api sf 4-3/4 quarts = 4.5 l 10w30
transmission oil: dexron ii or iii 2quarts = 1.89 l (any type except f)
firing order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
spark plugs (for gt40 heads not stock E7's):
btfm3m /.035"
hotter awsf52c 106 / 766 / 606
hot awsf42c awsf42c-6 765 / 5245 605
stock awsf32c 104 / 764 / 5144 / 5164
cold awsf22c 103 / 5143 / 5243
bosch super - 7580 (hr9dcy)
autolite - 764 (ap764 for plat, app764 for double plat)
champion - 401 (rs14yc6)
motorcraft awsf32c
ngk standard bpr6efs

Modifications:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/
gt40p heads (best improvement along with the prop)
LTP-66879 roller rocker arms, aluminum, 1.6 ratio, 3/8 stud mount, small block ford, set of 16 x1
http://www.skidim.com/
rk122014 starter kit lh 302/351 permanent magnet
edl-2181 intake manifold performer 351 w
rn0120-1 renew kit 4160 holley, 351, 350, 5.8
rp173072 breakerless ignition kit 87 up (huge improvement, no more points, remove resistor)
r117004 coil ignition electronic
427204 telssc6117 safe-t steering cable only 15’ (apparently some prostars that year use 17')

http://www.summitracing.com/
CCA-CL35-242-3 cam & lifter kit, xtreme energy , hydraulic flat tappet, 351w, 224/230 duration, .510"/.512" lift x1 (haven't put it in)
PRO-302-001 proform ford racing licensed aluminum valve covers 302-001 (need spacer exhaust manifolds to create a bit more space)
pro-67235 adj vac secondary housing (nice if you want to be able to adjust sencondaries on the fly)
ult-9014-045 optima yellowtop deep cycle 12 volt batteries 9014-045
SPW-1450300 Superwinch S Series Winches 1450300 (got tired of winching)
http://www.fordracingparts.com/
m-9600-l302 round air cleaner assembly
http://www.overtons.com
item 74334 sahara 6 gauge set
http://www.perfectpass.com/
perfect pass stargazer for carbureted applications (wife drives through the course)
http://www.nettleprops.com/
Acme 541 Propeller 3 Blade 13 X 12 LH 1" (best improvement along with the heads)
http://www.amazon.com/
Lokar XED-5005 Black Stainless Steel Housing Dipstick with Black Fittings for Ford 351 Engine (nice and flexible)

BARE5
05-03-2013, 10:33 AM
Wow, wish there was more like this post. Great note taking.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-03-2013, 11:42 AM
Impressive list.

Are you using an automotive air cleaner in place of a flame arrestor?
http://www.fordracingparts.com/
m-9600-l302 round air cleaner assembly

Wouter
05-03-2013, 12:12 PM
hum, yes, good eye, I am using an air cleaner in place of flame arrestor (those things look so wimpy...)

thatsmrmastercraft
05-03-2013, 01:01 PM
hum, yes, good eye, I am using an air cleaner in place of flame arrestor (those things look so wimpy...)

Are you using the K&N flame arrestor element with this?

Wouter
05-03-2013, 01:06 PM
nope; just the air filter that came with the ford racing assembly. Motor box doesn't have insulation and gives just enough clearance (if that's why you are asking)

Wouter
05-03-2013, 01:12 PM
I see. Not coastguard approved unless it's the K&N Marine Approved per SAE J1928 Flame Arrestor Standard... No USCG over here: wonder if that's riskier in case of backfire? Myabe time to get the K&N one...

interesting link: http://www.knfilters.com/marine/flamearrester.htm

thatsmrmastercraft
05-03-2013, 01:15 PM
nope; just the air filter that came with the ford racing assembly. Motor box doesn't have insulation and gives just enough clearance (if that's why you are asking)

My thought was more to a backfire and the flammability of the paper element. My 69 Mustang with a tunnel ram backfired through the carbs once and melted down the low profile foam element air cleaners. Fire under the engine cover is never good.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTuTh8JCC9zw3_VWnkqf676v63E_LggJ ayZdH9XypeaiGzfL5QDVQ

Wouter
05-03-2013, 01:19 PM
It's been on there for a while now but you're absolutely right... good catch, hadn't occurred to me

pix of the stang?

thatsmrmastercraft
05-03-2013, 01:31 PM
It's been on there for a while now but you're absolutely right... good catch, hadn't occurred to me

pix of the stang?

Any pics of the engine with the air cleaner? I would think that with an approved filter it would be acceptable to the Coast Guard.

Wouter
05-03-2013, 01:49 PM
Will take some under the box shots this weekend: haven't done that in a while.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-03-2013, 01:57 PM
Will take some under the box shots this weekend: haven't done that in a while.

Looking forward to seeing how it looks.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
05-03-2013, 01:59 PM
Looking forward to seeing how it looks.

I don't think he is going to care about the coast guard as he is in Belgium, however having said that it is important to have an appropriate flame arrestor.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-03-2013, 02:02 PM
I don't think he is going to care about the coast guard as he is in Belgium, however having said that it is important to have an appropriate flame arrestor.

Might be belgium, WI. http://www.7thgenhonda.com/forum/images/smilies/dunno.gif

Wouter
05-03-2013, 02:58 PM
Lol. Nope that's Belgium, Europe : land of beer and waffles!

CantRepeat
05-03-2013, 03:05 PM
Love me some beer and waffles!

Are you sure that alternator is marine approved? I didn't see anything on the page that indicated so.

east tx skier
05-03-2013, 04:28 PM
Nice setup. Just a point of clarification for anyone else with a 1990 who might read this. The Autolite 764 is the correct plug for the high output 351. This is the correct plug in this application because he modified his engine with GT40 heads. On a typical 1990, it would be a standard 351, for which the correct plug would be an Autolite 24 or its equivilent.

Wouter
05-03-2013, 04:58 PM
Yes; spark plugs for gt40 heads not for stock e7's... And also; to be clear no, that alternator is NOT marine approved ( is what I meant by "safer to use a marine version." ( In fact I'll remove it before someone blows up their mc) Nothing gets by you guys is what I love about this forum!

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
05-04-2013, 11:50 AM
1990 Prostar 190 / Ford/Indmar 351w GT40P:

Your setup is very nice here is what I did,

Mallory Unilite Billet Distributor, Ford Racing slant valve covers, Crane Cam roller rockers 1.6, Billet roller timing set, ARP bolts, Weiand Stealth Intake Manifold, World Windsor SR. cylinder heads, Lunati Voodoo Camshaft Kit, Comp pushrods, Accel 8172 spark plugs, and ACME 541 13x12 CNC 3-Blade. Oh and I am running the stock flame arrestor. lol. Performs very well with a top end of 48mph @ 5000 rpm with awesome out hole shot. Livorsi gauges with GPS

Wouter
05-05-2013, 06:27 PM
Very nice looking engine and setup...

Scot
05-07-2013, 02:27 AM
This brings up a good question: What parts need to be "marine"?

Some obvious answers are carb, fuel pump, alternator, anything electrical or dealing with fuel delivery.

Anything special about intake manifolds or heads that makes them "marine" or are street applications fine?

10 years ago I would have replaced them all with auto parts because they are cheaper, but 10 years ago I was kinda stupid. Safety didnt seem as important.

east tx skier
05-07-2013, 12:29 PM
This brings up a good question: What parts need to be "marine"?

Some obvious answers are carb, fuel pump, alternator, anything electrical or dealing with fuel delivery.

Anything special about intake manifolds or heads that makes them "marine" or are street applications fine?

10 years ago I would have replaced them all with auto parts because they are cheaper, but 10 years ago I was kinda stupid. Safety didnt seem as important.

You have it right. Basically, electricals, fuel pump, carb.

Intake manifold and heads are automotive.

Wouter
05-08-2013, 12:39 PM
You covered it with electricals: but starter engine should definitely be marine.