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roush611
04-20-2013, 03:23 AM
Ok so I picked up my 1983 Stars and Stripes today. The boat has been sitting for 10+ years. Luckily for me most of that was indoors. My plans are kind of vague at this point due to a pretty tight budget. First and foremost is getting it up an running again. I will keep this thread updated with progress pictures and issues as they arrive. On to the pictures.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps5c021171.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps5c021171.jpg.html)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zpsdafe952d.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zpsdafe952d.jpg.html)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps4d104df1.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps4d104df1.jpg.html)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zpsdfedd741.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zpsdfedd741.jpg.html)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps85bc55b5.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps85bc55b5.jpg.html)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps63875fa2.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps63875fa2.jpg.html)

83SuperSlot
04-20-2013, 03:26 AM
What A Find!!!!!!!! Congratulations!!!!!!! :)

SkiDaddy
04-20-2013, 08:37 AM
You got a lot of nice stuff to work with there! Good find. If the Cheez-Its came with it, you got a great deal - no matter the price! :-)

Sierra Tango II
04-20-2013, 09:41 AM
Very nice.

f925
04-20-2013, 09:47 AM
Looks like a solid platform, Congrats!


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orbeamlb
04-20-2013, 09:55 AM
Congrats on your nice boat. Welcome to Team Talk. Plenty of great info on this forum.

LYNRDSKYNRD
04-20-2013, 09:59 AM
Great looking MC! A little 303 on that motor cover and seats will do wonders. Look toward to seeing her shined up and on the water.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

SSMoose
04-20-2013, 10:54 AM
Looks like you picked up a really nice boat. I look forward to seeing how the work progresses. You will have fun and learn a lot right here.

thatsmrmastercraft
04-20-2013, 11:51 AM
Sounds like when I got my boat. Funds were tight too so stage one was making it safely operational. Working on the pretty stuff was stage two.

mikeg205
04-20-2013, 11:53 AM
congrats ...nice find...and welcome

Traxx822
04-20-2013, 05:18 PM
Nice boat. Update.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

03 35th Anniversary
04-20-2013, 06:03 PM
The box of Cheez-It's weren't 10 years old were they???

Hopefully it doesn't need much to run!

roush611
04-20-2013, 06:35 PM
Todays update:


Removed interior
Removed gas tank
Replaced fuel lines
Replaced impeller
Replaced water lines
Pulled steering cable
Installed new ignition switch


Can someone please post a picture of the orientation of the raw water pump. I am pretty sure mine is in the correct way but I just want to double check. (I forgot to mark the orientation)

A couple pics...
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps5e36583a.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps5e36583a.jpg.html)

And everything tucked in...
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps61a8ef7b.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps61a8ef7b.jpg.html)

roush611
04-21-2013, 06:46 PM
Any suggestions on how to get the rusted plugs out? I hit them all with some liquid wrench but it is not helping at all. I don't want to tug too hard and snap a plug off inside the block.

Cloaked
04-21-2013, 07:16 PM
Can someone please post a picture of the orientation of the raw water pump. I am pretty sure mine is in the correct way but I just want to double check. (I forgot to mark the orientation)


. .....................

Cloaked
04-21-2013, 07:19 PM
Any suggestions on how to get the rusted plugs out? I hit them all with some liquid wrench but it is not helping at all. I don't want to tug too hard and snap a plug off inside the block.Patience..... give it another shot of a penetrant and let it sit overnight.... I have heard tell of having to drill them out and retap, etc.... That's a tough drain plug. Don't forget the one in the bottom of the J-tube. You should have total of 5 drain plugs... two engine block, two exhaust manifold, and one J-tube.

.

Cloaked
04-21-2013, 07:21 PM
If you decide to replace the carpet, remove the old carpet in as much of a full piece as possible (probably three total pieces) to use as a template for cutting the new carpet. Saves a lot of headaches with a template.

.

strad
04-21-2013, 07:58 PM
Todays update:


Removed interior
Removed gas tank
Replaced fuel lines
Replaced impeller
Replaced water lines
Pulled steering cable
Installed new ignition switch


Can someone please post a picture of the orientation of the raw water pump. I am pretty sure mine is in the correct way but I just want to double check. (I forgot to mark the orientation)

A couple pics...
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps5e36583a.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps5e36583a.jpg.html)

And everything tucked in...
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps61a8ef7b.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps61a8ef7b.jpg.html)

Told ya you'd love working on this boat! I can't wait to see it after you polish it! If I could change one thing about mine I'd make it metal flake. Good work so far. Edit: oh, if you haven't already, make sure that engine turns freely before you try to start it.

roush611
04-21-2013, 08:48 PM
. .....................

Thank you!

Cloaked
04-21-2013, 08:53 PM
Thank you!You're welcome to inquire anytime. I have a longtime passion for the older boats. Started with my first MC (new) in 1979. Been at it ever since.....

Good to see you working on a legacy boat.

.

hosofpayne
04-21-2013, 09:56 PM
Very nice find. Keep soaking those plugs and when you try to remove them use a impact tool of some kind. That will put less twist on plug and has a hammering affect.(Patiences grasshopper) Keep soaking!! Welcome to team talk everything you will ever need to know about your boat is here.

roush611
04-22-2013, 12:23 AM
I should has specified earlier since we are talking about boats ha ha. The spark plugs are what I am trying to get out. Not the drain plugs. I hit all the plugs today with liquid wrench twice and I'm going to let it sit over night.

The good news is I bought a new battery today and the boat turns over no problem. No I am waiting on my steering cable so I can begin to put everything back together and see if i can get it running. Does anyone have a link to the proper kit to convert to an electronic ignition? Figured I might as well since I have the boat in pieces.

hosofpayne
04-23-2013, 04:05 PM
To me it doesn't matter what type the stuck fastner is i always use a impact tool, reduces side torque, take your time and soak... that p-oil will work its way in there.

you could of had a MC
04-23-2013, 05:50 PM
It will clean up... and when its in the water making that glorius noise that it makes, and people at the dock are checking your 30+ year old boat out, while the newer wake makers get ignored you will just smile to your self, and think, they "could of had a Master Craft" :)
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=71&pictureid=4514
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=71&pictureid=2520

tph
04-23-2013, 05:56 PM
While you have the tank out I would advise through bolting the platform brackets. There are several threads on this forum that cover that subject.

roush611
04-23-2013, 11:16 PM
While you have the tank out I would advise through bolting the platform brackets. There are several threads on this forum that cover that subject.

I thought about that, but it is not really in the budget as I would need someone to do the fiberglass work. The tank is not all the difficult to get out so that is on the list for future improvements.

tph
04-24-2013, 11:15 AM
I thought about that, but it is not really in the budget as I would need someone to do the fiberglass work. The tank is not all the difficult to get out so that is on the list for future improvements.

You might want to check to see if the top two bolts would be above the floor line as in the picture below. They are the bolts that take most of the load, and you wouldn't have to do any fiberglass work.

Cloaked
04-24-2013, 05:30 PM
You might want to check to see if the top two bolts would be above the floor line as in the picture below. They are the bolts that take most of the load, and you wouldn't have to do any fiberglass work.That photo looks familiar....... I think that is my last boat :D

I have other pictures as well if the OP has an interest for doing the platform.

.

roush611
04-24-2013, 05:32 PM
Thanks for the heads up on that. I will check it

bret
04-25-2013, 07:18 AM
PB Blaster is one of the best penetrates on the market. Used it a couple of days ago on an old alternator for the track car, next day the impact got the nut off no problem. The day before, it wouldn't budge!

roush611
04-25-2013, 04:20 PM
PB Blaster is one of the best penetrates on the market. Used it a couple of days ago on an old alternator for the track car, next day the impact got the nut off no problem. The day before, it wouldn't budge!

Thanks. I am going to pick some up today. Liquid wrench did not help at all!


I got excited when I was taking the tank out the other day and did not mark what hose went where on the fuel water separator. Can anyone shed some light on this for me?

tim79mc
04-26-2013, 12:22 AM
PB Blaster all the way. It is amazing stuff. That + patience moves anything.

mikeg205
04-26-2013, 12:29 AM
Anyone try home brew atf+10% acetone? https://www.engineeringforchange.org/news/2012/08/14/how_to_make_penetrating_oil.html

roush611
04-26-2013, 05:53 PM
Can anyone help me with my airhead mistake. I need to know which hose goes to which side of the fuel water separator. I got way to excited when I was ripping the boat apart and forgot to mark stuff.


Since I am at a stand still wailing for parts I decided to start detailing the exterior... Here are some teaser progress pictures.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zpsc6daf785.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zpsc6daf785.jpg.html)


Don't mind the area behind the light. I have not got to that area yet haha.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps19c59918.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps19c59918.jpg.html)

thatsmrmastercraft
04-27-2013, 11:35 AM
Can anyone help me with my airhead mistake. I need to know which hose goes to which side of the fuel water separator. I got way to excited when I was ripping the boat apart and forgot to mark stuff.


Since I am at a stand still wailing for parts I decided to start detailing the exterior... Here are some teaser progress pictures.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zpsc6daf785.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zpsc6daf785.jpg.html)


Don't mind the area behind the light. I have not got to that area yet haha.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps19c59918.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps19c59918.jpg.html)

Looking good. Love red metal flake.:love:

strad
04-27-2013, 03:27 PM
Yup looks luscious. I would try to help with the separator but I only know where my fuel filter is. Haven't had to look for anything else in the system!

roush611
04-27-2013, 04:50 PM
Yup looks luscious. I would try to help with the separator but I only know where my fuel filter is. Haven't had to look for anything else in the system!

Ha ha thanks! Where is the fuel filter? Or is the fuel water separator the fuel filter?

strad
04-27-2013, 08:54 PM
Well mine is port side next to the stringer, under the forward motor mount. edit: and mine is marked with an arrow for flow. One hose in from the tank, one hose out to the fuel pump.

roush611
05-04-2013, 12:02 AM
Well hit my first real bump in th road yesterday. I was supposed to be starting it up today until I decided to check the distributor. This is what I found...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps4327fe2c.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps4327fe2c.jpg.html)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps75d69341.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps75d69341.jpg.html)

Pretty annoying because once electrical things pop up my knowledge goes to zero. I ordered a new one this morning. Now I have to find someone to help me install it and get the timing right.

lenz
05-04-2013, 12:18 AM
tough looking boat!

roush611
05-04-2013, 01:29 AM
My noob question for the day... Where the heck is the bilge pump on this thing? I can't see to find it anywhere!

tph
05-04-2013, 01:34 AM
My noob question for the day... Where the heck is the bilge pump on this thing? I can't see to find it anywhere!
Under the round deckplate in front of the pylon.

roush611
05-04-2013, 01:57 AM
Ohhhhhhhh. Now wonder I couldn't see it anywhere. Thanks.

Cloaked
05-04-2013, 03:11 AM
Well hit my first real bump in th road yesterday. I was supposed to be starting it up today until I decided to check the distributor. This is what I found...


Pretty annoying because once electrical things pop up my knowledge goes to zero. I ordered a new one this morning. Now I have to find someone to help me install it and get the timing right.You may consider an electronic ignition / distributor. I am not certain how a distributor comes for your application but a conversion kit is what I have always used. Worth the money indeed...

.

roush611
05-04-2013, 07:57 PM
You may consider an electronic ignition / distributor. I am not certain how a distributor comes for your application but a conversion kit is what I have always used. Worth the money indeed...

.

Since the budget is pretty tight I wound up buying a Mallory points distributor. I will upgrade the distributor to one of their e spark systems in the future.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-04-2013, 08:48 PM
Since the budget is pretty tight I wound up buying a Mallory points distributor. I will upgrade the distributor to one of their e spark systems in the future.

Sounds like the most bang for the buck.

roush611
05-04-2013, 08:51 PM
Now the fun part begins. Trying to get the old distrubutor out. As of right now it is frozen in there. Gonna take a lot of pb blaster and time. :-(

roush611
05-04-2013, 08:58 PM
Question though, while trying to find TDC I cranked the boat before I started to see which way the motor cranked. (It cranked counter clockwise) When I was hand cranking the motor to find TDC it would only crank clockwise. Is this normal?

thatsmrmastercraft
05-04-2013, 09:41 PM
Question though, while trying to find TDC I cranked the boat before I started to see which way the motor cranked. (It cranked counter clockwise) When I was hand cranking the motor to find TDC it would only crank clockwise. Is this normal?

You should be able to hand crank it counter clockwise. It might take a little more effort.

Table Rocker
05-04-2013, 10:00 PM
Question though, while trying to find TDC I cranked the boat before I started to see which way the motor cranked. (It cranked counter clockwise) When I was hand cranking the motor to find TDC it would only crank clockwise. Is this normal?Pull the plugs and it will be easier.

roush611
05-04-2013, 11:52 PM
Pull the plugs and it will be easier.

I wound up finding TDC the way I was cranking the motor. But good to know for the future. It was pretty difficult bc I only had the #1 plug out.

f925
05-06-2013, 12:33 AM
I wound up finding TDC the way I was cranking the motor. But good to know for the future. It was pretty difficult bc I only had the #1 plug out.

Yup, cranking forward you have yo compress air as if it were getting ready to fire under compression, in reverse the valves are open to make it easier. Pulling all the plugs eliminates the compression as air can escape though the holes left open. You got the important part done though!


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roush611
05-06-2013, 10:47 PM
I haven't tried actually starting the boat yet but what coil would you recommend to go with this distributor?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-yl554cv/media/images/make/ford

I am just assuming the coil is bad based on the looks of the exterior of it.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
05-06-2013, 11:04 PM
Any coil with a 0.700 ohms value will work with that distributor and a stock ballast resistor, I run the msd blaster 2 #8202 but any from this list will do just fine or even just a stock type from your local auto parts.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/ignition-coils/primary-resistance/0-700-ohms/coil-style/canister/coil-wire-attachment/female-socket

roush611
05-06-2013, 11:17 PM
Any coil with a 0.700 ohms value will work with that distributor and a stock ballast resistor, I run the msd blaster 2 #8202 but any from this list will do just fine or even just a stock type from your local auto parts.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/ignition-coils/primary-resistance/0-700-ohms/coil-style/canister/coil-wire-attachment/female-socket

Thank you!

SKI*MC
05-06-2013, 11:35 PM
Any coil with a 0.700 ohms value will work with that distributor and a stock ballast resistor, I run the msd blaster 2 #8202 but any from this list will do just fine or even just a stock type from your local auto parts.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/ignition-coils/primary-resistance/0-700-ohms/coil-style/canister/coil-wire-attachment/female-socket

Would something like this offer a noticeable difference in performance? Mine is probably as old as the boat.... and I've been thinking about replacing the coil and the plugs.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-06-2013, 11:55 PM
Upgrading you coil without upgrading to electronic ignition won't make a noticeable difference. New ignition and hot coil makes a real difference in both starting and performance. One of the best reasonably cheap upgrades there is.

SKI*MC
05-06-2013, 11:58 PM
Upgrading you coil without upgrading to electronic ignition won't make a noticeable difference. New ignition and hot coil makes a real difference in both starting and performance. One of the best reasonably cheap upgrades there is.

It does get sluggish starting sometimes... And I'm already running electronic ignition. I guess I'll order one here soon! Do you have any plug suggestions?

thatsmrmastercraft
05-07-2013, 12:06 AM
It does get sluggish starting sometimes... And I'm already running electronic ignition. I guess I'll order one here soon! Do you have any plug suggestions?

I"m running the stock Motorcraft plugs but don't recall the number. I went to a gap of .040 with my Pertronix Ignitor II and Flamethrower II coil. If you are having starting issues, and your electric choke is operating properly, you might take a peek down the throat of the carb after you shut it off to see if it is dribbling fuel after shut off. Could be time for a carb rebuild.

SKI*MC
05-07-2013, 12:20 AM
I"m running the stock Motorcraft plugs but don't recall the number. I went to a gap of .040 with my Pertronix Ignitor II and Flamethrower II coil. If you are having starting issues, and your electric choke is operating properly, you might take a peek down the throat of the carb after you shut it off to see if it is dribbling fuel after shut off. Could be time for a carb rebuild.

Ill Check into this when i start it up. Its still winterized as of now.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-07-2013, 12:59 AM
Ill Check into this when i start it up. Its still winterized as of now.

I haven't fired mine up yet this season either. Certainly by this weekend though.

roush611
05-07-2013, 09:37 PM
Ok I need everyones help/suggestions. While trying to remove the old distributor, the housing sheered at the base where it enters the block. (See picture, right above where the red straw is pointing) I guess all the pb blaster weakened it a little. When the hell can I do from here? Anyone ever experienced this?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps1e4a5ab0.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps1e4a5ab0.jpg.html)

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
05-07-2013, 09:59 PM
I would take a hammer and chisel and get on the flat mount and make a nice slot then pry up while wiggling from side to side, might even try bumping the motor over while trying this.

roush611
05-07-2013, 10:30 PM
I would take a hammer and chisel and get on the flat mount and make a nice slot then pry up while wiggling from side to side, might even try bumping the motor over while trying this.

Ok this is what I was planning. Just didn't wanna screw things up even more.

88 PS190
05-07-2013, 10:51 PM
A thought for you.

First - Hot/Cold - for something like this I would torch around it, then take a canned PC duster, flip it upside down to spray the liquid out onto the shaft immediately above the block.

With that technique I'd be thinking about using something like a strap wrapped around the shaft of the distributor's body, with something like a barbell tied to the strap, once heated/shocked, I'd start cranking on that like the weight/strap was a slide hammer and hope it would pop it out (watch your teeth)

roush611
05-11-2013, 12:07 AM
All I can say is F yea and I am keeping this bad boy as a trophy!!!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps296e0a13.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps296e0a13.jpg.html)

thatsmrmastercraft
05-11-2013, 12:13 AM
All I can say is F yea and I am keeping this bad boy as a trophy!!!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps296e0a13.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps296e0a13.jpg.html)

And we have a winner! :toast:

roush611
05-11-2013, 09:53 PM
Well I installed the new distributor today and finally went to start the thing. NOTHING!!!!!! I am very aggravated right now because this is where my technical knowledge stops. I can take things apart then put them back but as soon as it comes to what would cause it to not work I am useless.

I was getting spark (not sure if it was strong or not) looked pretty weak so I went and bought a new coil. The spark remained the same. I tried some starting fluid and the boat would fire for like 1 second then just go back to cranking. I have a feeling I am not getting fuel but I don't know where to start as far as that goes. What do you all think? Any ideas are appreciated.

I took a wire wheel to all the terminals as well as had my Tahoe feeding the battery while I was cranking the motor.

Oh yea, at one point I disconnected the upper portion of the hard line from the fuel pump to the carburetor and turned the motor a few cranks. No fuel even dripped out. Is this normal? I am thinking I either need a new fuel water separator or pump. But again I could be way off in my diagnosis.

maxpower220
05-11-2013, 10:06 PM
Make sure that your timing isn't 180 out.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-11-2013, 10:08 PM
I would verify that the distributor was installed properly by confirming that the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder when the #1 cylinder is at the top of it's compression stroke.

Next I would verify firing order by following all spark plug wires to the proper plug.

Follow this with checking spark. You should see a decent blue spark. Does the distributor still have points? This could be an issue.

If the distributor is in correctly, the firing order is correct, and the timing is close, you should get it to run for a bit on the starting fluid.

Are you getting fuel when you work the throttle? Is the fuel old?

strad
05-11-2013, 10:10 PM
What have you done to the carb? If nothing so far, it probably is gummed up and needs a good soaking and possibly a rebuild kit. No fuel = no fire. . .

roush611
05-11-2013, 11:02 PM
Ok...
Carb- Newly rebuilt
Fuel- New with additive
Fuel Lines- New
Distributor- brand new (still has points, points gapped to .018)
Firing order- correct (double checked today)
Coil- New(flame thrower)


When installing the dist. today I found TDC then advanced it 6 degrees. I then dropped the dist. in and set #1 plug in line with rotor. I could be 180 degrees off. I dont really understand how to tell the difference though. The compression was pretty strong when my finger was over the plug hole on cylinder 1. As I understand it the compression stroke on the exhaust side is not as strong. That and any time the (what I think is the exhaust stroke) came along it was never anywhere near TDC...

Like I said I am not very technical when it comes to this stuff. I try but I have had to teach myself everything. So this is kind of a learning experience for me.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-11-2013, 11:16 PM
The piston comes up two times on each cycle: once on the compression stroke and once on the exhaust stroke. To find the compression stroke, remove the plug from the #1 cylinder and turn the engine over with a large 1/2" drive ratchet on the crank bolt. when the piston comes up on the compression stroke, you will not be able to keep your finger over the hole where the spark plug goes. You can use a wooden dowel in the plug hole to conform you are at the top of the stroke. Only do this while turning with a ratchet...never with the starter motor. You can use the starter to turn the engine over searching for the compression stroke, but you will never be able to stop at the right spot. Using a remote start switch is helpful as you get more control over bumping the engine, and you can be at the #1 cylinder with your finger on the hole.

http://www.ntxtools.com/Merchant/graphics/00000001/otc-3650.gif

If you have the rotor pointer at the #1 cylinder at the top of the exhaust stroke, you will have nothing but problems.

roush611
05-11-2013, 11:38 PM
If you have the rotor pointer at the #1 cylinder at the top of the compression stroke, you will have nothing but problems.

Should have been more specific. The rotor was in like with plug wire 1 on the distributor cap.


But as I understand it (please bare with me) it does not matter where you finally set the #1 plug wire as long as all wires are In the correct firing order and the rotor and #1 plug wire are lined up at TDC.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-11-2013, 11:49 PM
Should have been more specific. The rotor was in like with plug wire 1 on the distributor cap.


But as I understand it (please bare with me) it does not matter where you finally set the #1 plug wire as long as all wires are In the correct firing order and the rotor and #1 plug wire are lined up at TDC.

My error...in the last line of my previous post,I meant to say exhaust stroke. I have since fixed it.

You are indeed correct, it doesn't matter which post on the distributor cap you use as #1, just so that you have the rotor pointed to it at the top of the compression stroke and the firing order correct after that.

roush611
05-12-2013, 12:22 AM
Here is a quick video I just took of the spark I am getting on the #1 plug? Looks alright to me...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgXtNc3cMZY

thatsmrmastercraft
05-12-2013, 12:40 AM
Well I installed the new distributor today and finally went to start the thing. NOTHING!!!!!! I am very aggravated right now because this is where my technical knowledge stops. I can take things apart then put them back but as soon as it comes to what would cause it to not work I am useless.

I was getting spark (not sure if it was strong or not) looked pretty weak so I went and bought a new coil. The spark remained the same. I tried some starting fluid and the boat would fire for like 1 second then just go back to cranking. I have a feeling I am not getting fuel but I don't know where to start as far as that goes. What do you all think? Any ideas are appreciated.

I took a wire wheel to all the terminals as well as had my Tahoe feeding the battery while I was cranking the motor.

Oh yea, at one point I disconnected the upper portion of the hard line from the fuel pump to the carburetor and turned the motor a few cranks. No fuel even dripped out. Is this normal? I am thinking I either need a new fuel water separator or pump. But again I could be way off in my diagnosis.

I must have missed this the first time around. You should be getting a good flow of fuel. I can't remember the volume spec, but I should be able to come up with it. Does the carb have enough fuel to squirt fuel from the accelerator pump when you work the throttle?

thatsmrmastercraft
05-12-2013, 12:42 AM
Here is a quick video I just took of the spark I am getting on the #1 plug? Looks alright to me...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgXtNc3cMZY

From what I can see the spark looks acceptable.

roush611
05-12-2013, 12:43 AM
I must have missed this the first time around. You should be getting a good flow of fuel. I can't remember the volume spec, but I should be able to come up with it. Does the carb have enough fuel to squirt fuel from the accelerator pump when you work the throttle?

I did not see any fuel anywhere in the carb. Although I did just find out I was looking in the wrong area for fuel flow. I will have to check again tomorrow.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-12-2013, 12:59 AM
I did not see any fuel anywhere in the carb. Although I did just find out I was looking in the wrong area for fuel flow. I will have to check again tomorrow.

OK, keep plugging away..................you will win this battle.

ctjahn
05-12-2013, 08:31 AM
I just did a similar refresh this winter (rebuilt carb, distributor, wires, cleaned fuel tank, new sending unit, lines, etc.... It took me about 60 minutes to get fuel from the tank to the carb (Mind you I did it in stages, allowing it to cool so I didn't burn out the starter)

Ended up having my plug wires one off.

Good Luck!
Cj
78 S&S

roush611
05-12-2013, 02:21 PM
I think I narrowed it down to a bad fuel water Seperator.

Is there a fuel filter inside to fuel pump as well? I have been seeing some stuff online saying that there is the fuel water seperator as well as one in the fuel pump. I am getting fuel to the pump but the pressure coming out of the pump is sporadic

roush611
05-17-2013, 09:37 PM
Thought I would do a quick update. The boat will now fire without the assistance of starting fluid. It will no stay running though. It fires then immediately shuts off. It will continue to run if I hold the key in the start position but as soon as I let off the key it dies. I did get it to fire enough as to where water came out the exhaust. I did wind up having to replace the starter which put me at my limit for my budget. I am hoping you all will be able to give me some tips that dont require spending money ha ha.

Link to video: http://youtu.be/VujMCXStARM

I started cleaning the vinyl today and thought you might like to see the difference...
Before:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps178dbb21.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps178dbb21.jpg.html)

Midway:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps12a5b828.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps12a5b828.jpg.html)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps82818870.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps82818870.jpg.html)

After:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps53f4a014.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps53f4a014.jpg.html)

Here are some pictures of my new parts installed:
Distributor:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps90e5bdca.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps90e5bdca.jpg.html)

Starter:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zpsf678cd70.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zpsf678cd70.jpg.html)

tph
05-18-2013, 10:54 AM
The upholstery looks great. What cleaning method are you using?

roush611
05-18-2013, 02:52 PM
The upholstery looks great. What cleaning method are you using?

I used totally awesome to clean then meguiars vinyl protectant after.

roush611
05-19-2013, 04:21 PM
Thanks to all the help from the members in the Engine section I was able to get this bad boy fired up...

Here is a video for y'all:
http://youtu.be/CWIUDsMwFEM

gweaver
05-19-2013, 04:46 PM
Man, these boats just sound awesome at idle!! Congrats on getting your starting issues sorted! That's got to feel great!
G

strad
05-19-2013, 05:11 PM
Awesome. About ready for a water test?

roush611
05-19-2013, 05:37 PM
Awesome. About ready for a water test?

Yea but I screwed with the accelerator pump and idle screw right when I initially started it so now I gotta figure out how to adjust those.

roush611
05-19-2013, 09:54 PM
And a teaser picture to end a productive weekend. I will hopefully have the rest done by the end of the week....

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps70114af0.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps70114af0.jpg.html)

Ironhorse
05-21-2013, 09:36 AM
That looks amazing!! Looking forward to more pics.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-21-2013, 10:29 AM
And a teaser picture to end a productive weekend. I will hopefully have the rest done by the end of the week....

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps70114af0.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps70114af0.jpg.html)

Gotta love red metalflake.:love:

roush611
05-26-2013, 09:22 PM
Ok, well I took her out to the delta today for some water testing. It could have gone much better but also could have gone way worse. I was having idle issues all day. The boat coming off throttle will idle at 2k for about a minute before it finally starts dropping down. I also got very bad vapor lock which almost caused me to have to get towed in. In a last ditch effort I left throttle wide open and cranked for several seconds. It finally fired up.

While the boat was running I was getting a pretty decent vibration. I dont quite know what it is from but the prop does have a little knick in it. I am hoping it was not the drive shaft.

Last but not least the steering cable that the local boat place ordered is a foot too long. Thinking it would not be a huge issue I installed it anyway. Well needless to say I was having steering issues all day. Boat would only go one direction in reverse, and left turns were difficult and not near as tight as right hand turns.

Any idea on the idle, vapor lock and vibration issues?

Anyway here are a couple pictures...
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zpsff635d56.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zpsff635d56.jpg.html)
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps10a19299.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps10a19299.jpg.html)

Cloaked
05-26-2013, 09:35 PM
Ok, well I took her out to the delta today for some water testing. It could have gone much better but also could have gone way worse. I was having idle issues all day. The boat coming off throttle will idle at 2k for about a minute before it finally starts dropping down. I also got very bad vapor lock which almost caused me to have to get towed in. In a last ditch effort I left throttle wide open and cranked for several seconds. It finally fired up.

While the boat was running I was getting a pretty decent vibration. I dont quite know what it is from but the prop does have a little knick in it. I am hoping it was not the drive shaft.

Last but not least the steering cable that the local boat place ordered is a foot too long. Thinking it would not be a huge issue I installed it anyway. Well needless to say I was having steering issues all day. Boat would only go one direction in reverse, and left turns were difficult and not near as tight as right hand turns.

Any idea on the idle, vapor lock and vibration issues?

Anyway here are a couple pictures...

lol.. thanks for the post... I enjoy a bit of novel humor and no harm intended.... :D

On your year model, I doubt you got a vapor lock. A dirty 4160, an old 4160, or a 4160 with a vaccum leak is likely your culprit..one or all of the aforementioned.... A rebuild kit, a good cleaning and attention to detail will usually resolve the starting issues, but it could be other tweaks as well... For me if I had an 83 with original carb, I'd consider a new carb (expensive but at some point, only logical).

The left only turn comment is what really made me smile.... :D Thanks....
It's the nature of the boat.... reverse direction will only be just as you described... you'll have to learn how to plan on your reverse maneuvers.... It gets easier and more fun as the day goes on...... nature of the direct drive concept....

Vibration can be several things, however I'd first inspect the prop... any ding at all can cause a vibe in the driveline right on into the bottoms of your feet.... Don't skimp on getting your prop fixed because it 'doesn't look too bad'. THere is where you'll actually propagate more problems...

You could also have other issues throughout but start with the prop, then consider the cutlass bearing, then alignment, but typically misalignment is not so much of a vibration per se...I'm betting prop or cutlass (allows for some lateral movement of seveal components....Prop first....

.

roush611
05-26-2013, 10:48 PM
Thanks for the response. The carb is newly rebuild so I doubt it's an issue with the carb. I think the motor got heat soaked after I turned it off. The reason I say that is because if I turn it off then right back on there is no problem. When I pulled the flame arrestor when it was not starting you could see the vapor floating around in the primaries.

As for the the steering that was a brain fart on my part. I knew that but just spazzing after a long day on the water. I sat and thought about it and was like what a moron statement ha ha. I have not driven my dads Malibu in a few years so today was a nice refresher. Although i will say the steering cable is still wacked. I am gonna pull the prop this week and have it inspected.

Thanks again for the response.

Cloaked
05-27-2013, 08:52 AM
Thanks for the response. The carb is newly rebuild so I doubt it's an issue with the carb. I think the motor got heat soaked after I turned it off. The reason I say that is because if I turn it off then right back on there is no problem. When I pulled the flame arrestor when it was not starting you could see the vapor floating around in the primaries.

As for the the steering that was a brain fart on my part. I knew that but just spazzing after a long day on the water. I sat and thought about it and was like what a moron statement ha ha. I have not driven my dads Malibu in a few years so today was a nice refresher. Although i will say the steering cable is still wacked. I am gonna pull the prop this week and have it inspected.

Thanks again for the response.Did you do the rebuild? If someone did not clean the internals sufficiently while it was apart, often times the rebuild is fruitless... I always recommend (not that I am an authority) at least a 24 hour soak time. Someone here just did a very nice write-up of their soaking process. It's worth reading.... ==> http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=54417

Do you have a spacer plate between the intake and the base of the carb? Both gaskets good?

Coil good? Old? Too close to the manifold?

Electronic ignition (a must for me)?

Timing correct?

Look that prop over yourself. It's easy enough to see if there is anything out of whack.... Doesn't take much on a prop for a vibe to develop.

Just throwing out a few straws....

roush611
05-27-2013, 02:16 PM
Did you do the rebuild? If someone did not clean the internals sufficiently while it was apart, often times the rebuild is fruitless... I always recommend (not that I am an authority) at least a 24 hour soak time. Someone here just did a very nice write-up of their soaking process. It's worth reading.... ==> http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=54417

Do you have a spacer plate between the intake and the base of the carb? Both gaskets good?

Coil good? Old? Too close to the manifold?

Electronic ignition (a must for me)?

Timing correct?

Look that prop over yourself. It's easy enough to see if there is anything out of whack.... Doesn't take much on a prop for a vibe to develop.

Just throwing out a few straws....

Thank you for the suggestions. The carb was cleaned well and throughly looked through. The reason I know this is because it was supposedly rebuilt by a company in Florida and the boat ran like crap when I installed it. I took it to a friend who went through it with a fine tooth comb and said the carbon build up in the carb was unreal. While it was in the shop after the rebuild he did vacuum test it and said there was no leaks. It was holding well above average as far as the vacuum goes. I am not ruling out car issues though. There is a chance I am getting post shut off dripping into the primaries. Since as you stated above vapor lock is uncommon. I will look into this next time I run the boat. Gonna be a couple weeks as it is now time to spend time with the wife. I have been working on the boat day in and day out for 2 months ha ha.

The coil is new but there is a chance it is too close to the manifold. Never thought about that. I totally forgot to tighten the clamp before I went out yesterday so it is relatively loose in the holder.

The distributor is a brand new mallory marine POINTS distributor. I will convert it to electronic next year. The budget just didnt allow for an electronic ignition at this point.

Timing is set at 6 degrees BTDC.

Here are a few pictures of the prop. I am for sure going to pull it and get it repaired and go from there. (Yes I know the hull needs to be cleaned ha ha)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps52a74ca4.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps52a74ca4.jpg.html)
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps9359f4a7.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps9359f4a7.jpg.html)
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zpsef521369.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zpsef521369.jpg.html)

Cloaked
05-27-2013, 06:05 PM
I have seen props worse than that, but I have also seen those flaws and less put a vibration in my driveline. I'd have the prop reworked. Around here, ~$125 or less would take care of that prop (as a benchmark). I'd say there lies your vibration....

Your timing should be 10 deg IIRC.

I have heard tell of the coil getting hot but all being said, I have ran coils like this for years with no problems, them being mounted right on top of the engine, of which you speak.

Spacer plate and good gaskets? Good overnight soaking/cleaning is essential on a rebuild.... If you buddy did this in one day or less, it didn't soak long enough (in my opinion) to be confident of clean ports.... $0.02

Without a spacer, that is where lies the possibility of heat induction to the fuel, again just another straw, but I have had a spacer work well for me in similar situation....

Also your vacuum line to the PCV should be coming from a port on the rear-center of the spacer plate. Otherwise you get an imbalanced vacuum draw....

.

roush611
05-27-2013, 10:56 PM
After yesterday's adventures I decided to take a step back on the mechanical stuff for a few days and just chill. Today I built the first of 4 maybe 6 speaker mounts... Of course the final product product will be carpeted...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zpsf1d2ccca.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zpsf1d2ccca.jpg.html)

LGP
05-28-2013, 12:32 AM
I notice you live in Livermore.. I live in the South Bay. I have a project boat which is a 1985 SS and was curious if you found a way to remove the black vent on the bow? With regards to vibration, I noticed the same when I test drove my boat. I had some prop dings as you do but the prop was a bit lose as well.. just a heads up.
Great job on the pictures...

roush611
05-28-2013, 01:31 AM
I notice you live in Livermore.. I live in the South Bay. I have a project boat which is a 1985 SS and was curious if you found a way to remove the black vent on the bow? With regards to vibration, I noticed the same when I test drove my boat. I had some prop dings as you do but the prop was a bit lose as well.. just a heads up.
Great job on the pictures...

To be honest I have not even tried to remove that vent.

Thanks for the heads up on the prop issue. I'm gonna have it pulled and repaired and see if that helps anything.

roush611
06-10-2013, 07:40 PM
A quick little update on the money pit. Yesterday was the second trip out to the delta since I have owned the boat. The first time was when I posted prior to this. Since then I rebuild the carb that came on the boat since the one I purchased was not meshing well with my boat for several reasons. I also had the prop reworked to the tune of $200 for a fricking tiny nick. (I was not a happy camper when I got that bill)

On to yesterdays events... Took it out with the wife before our family friends got out there. Ran it for a total of about 20 mins, 15 of that being 5 mph zones. Boat was running great, a little rich, but I'm ok with that as it is just a simple tuning issue with the carb. The driveline vibration was pretty much non existent. I was as happy as a clam.

We went back to the marina to meet up with out friends, putts out of the 5mph zone and took off. Well, somewhat took off. About 50 yards out of the 5mph zone I lost all power and there was smoke billowing from the engine cover. (Insert several expletives in a very long sentence) I throw open then engine cover and to my relief it was only one of the exhaust hoses that had exploded. Yes, my day was over but at least it is an easy fix.

Picture of the first of many tows I'm sure: (Yes I was getting towed by a ski umbrella)
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zpsbacce24c.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zpsbacce24c.jpg.html)

And onto the hose:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps0f483f76.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps0f483f76.jpg.html)
Interior of hose:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps6e3080ae.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps6e3080ae.jpg.html)

Well since the boat does not have a stereo system in it I have been trying to be responsible with my money and do the necessary things first and make sure the boat is running like a top before I have fun with that. After being towed for 30 mins in dead silence I am ordering my stereo equipment this week ha ha.

Even though yesterday sucked two good things came out of the day: 1. The boat was running well before I broke it. and 2. I will have a full tank of gas for the next time I take this bad boy out. Wooohoooo

tph
06-10-2013, 08:22 PM
I notice you live in Livermore.. I live in the South Bay. I have a project boat which is a 1985 SS and was curious if you found a way to remove the black vent on the bow?

IIRC The Bow vent is attached with silicone sealant/adhesive. Probably the best way to remove it is to carefully pull on the vent while cutting the silicone underneath it with a sharp knife.

Cloaked
06-10-2013, 08:31 PM
.....I throw open then engine cover and to my relief it was only one of the exhaust hoses that had exploded.

And onto the hose:

Interior of hose:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/roush611/null_zps6e3080ae.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/roush611/media/null_zps6e3080ae.jpg.html)



It happens.....
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=707168&postcount=8

.