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View Full Version : 351 Indmar: if I pull the intake will the distr. come with it?


catamount
04-19-2013, 10:01 AM
So, I've got a problem where my distributor is literally fused to the intake (thead here) (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=51519). I am going to attempt to remove the distributor again this weekend, hoping that the winter freeze cycles may have given me a leg up.

If it gets to the point where the distributor looks like it's going to break, I am thinking that I may have better luck removing the intake and removing the distributor from the intake while it's on my workbench.

Could someone please confirm that if I pull the intake off, the distributor body will come off with it?

Laurel_Lake_Skier
04-19-2013, 10:12 AM
Sorry but the intake and distributor don't contact each other on the 351 so pulling the intake won't help you to much.

I'd suggest completely removing the hold-down bolt and bracket for the distributor, juicing things up with some good penetrating oil (Kroil) letting it sit for a while and then pulling up on the distributor while you twist it back and forth.....I'm assuming you can get it to turn?

JimN
04-19-2013, 10:15 AM
So, I've got a problem where my distributor is literally fused to the intake (thead here) (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=51519). I am going to attempt to remove the distributor again this weekend, hoping that the winter freeze cycles may have given me a leg up.

If it gets to the point where the distributor looks like it's going to break, I am thinking that I may have better luck removing the intake and removing the distributor from the intake while it's on my workbench.

Could someone please confirm that if I pull the intake off, the distributor body will come off with it?

The body might come out, but you need to be careful to keep it aligned with the engine as if it were still mounted, to avoid damaging the drive gear, shaft and the part of the case that's inside.

The freeze cycles have nothing to do with this. It would be better to clean the base and use some kind of penetrant before trying to pull this distributor.

Can you get it to rotate, as if you were adjusting the timing? If not, it's gonna be a tough one. What did the aluminum look like when you removed the hold-down?

catamount
04-19-2013, 10:46 AM
I'd suggest completely removing the hold-down bolt and bracket for the distributor, juicing things up with some good penetrating oil (Kroil) letting it sit for a while and then pulling up on the distributor while you twist it back and forth.....I'm assuming you can get it to turn?

Can you get it to rotate, as if you were adjusting the timing? If not, it's gonna be a tough one. What did the aluminum look like when you removed the hold-down?

Absolutely NO rotation.

Looks like Laurel Lake Skier is correct, the distributor doesn't pass through the intake so that won't help.

I've already tried almost everything. Last fall I had it soaked in ATF/kroil/everything else for weeks. I also bought some "instant freeze" spray to try to get the aluminum distributor shaft to shrink away from the cast block. I tried gently banging on the bottom of the shaft with an air hammer but couldn't get it to budge.

One thing I haven't tried yet is heat.

This winter I also acquired a chain wrench to try to get some lateral movement, and I'm thinking up a way to adapt my slide hammer to the distributor to "pull" it out.

If all of this fails, I'm trying to come up with a plan B (really a plan Z at this point) which is why I am asking about removing the intake manifold.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-19-2013, 11:23 AM
Removing the intake manifold will gain you some more working room to remove the stuck distributor. It's probably what I would try next.

etduc
04-19-2013, 11:30 AM
Removing the intake, might give you more room, to get to it. Lot of times, the o-ring is the culprit. Mine wasn't stuck as bad, as yours.

I was changing my intake, anyways, as it was in pretty bad shape, that's what I did.

Some people use carb cleaners, trying to de-grade the o-ring more. Using a chain wrench, oil filter tool, 12 inch pipe wrench...muscle. Got to get it, to turn first, or your running the risk of breaking the housing.