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f925
04-08-2013, 10:58 PM
I know this has probably been covered 1000+ times and I know the hoarse is well past dead and buried but I am going whack it one more time. Before someone says it, yes I did search, but out of 5 attempts the only search that yielded any results was "oil." A little broad for my liking.

So, 1990 Indmar Ford 351W. Owners manual suggest straight 30, but I have seen answers all over the map in a google search. I know that due to the rockers I need an oil with some zinc, but what exactly are my good trusted options? What specific oil do most of you with simular setups run? I want to pick something and stick with it. My Avalanche gets mobil 1 ext. performance, the corolla gets 0w20 mobil, and my F-250 gets rotella 15-40. I have seen warnings against synthetic in these motors (which left to fend for my self I would have used unquestionably) so I will not travel that path.

clrussell
04-08-2013, 11:01 PM
I run 15-40 rotella, it might be a big mistake in some eyes but rotella is very good oil IMO. I run it in everything.


Tapatalk

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-08-2013, 11:10 PM
Yes were bringing the horse back to life so we can beat it to death again.:rolleyes:
Valvoline vr1 20w50 has what you need without breaking the bank of specialty brand oils like brad penn and is readily available at any parts house even wally world has it. vr1 is what I run in my 351w .

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/6

kenps190
04-08-2013, 11:10 PM
I have a '92 prostar with 351W. I use Mobil 1. 15 50 as directed by PO.
Previous owner sent oil sample to Indmar every year for the first twelve years of ownership for Indmar testing. I have all of the test data that came with the boat. He said it was for the engine warranty. I think MCOCD is a pretty common trait here!

TayMC197
04-08-2013, 11:13 PM
I'm a rosella guy as well. Never had any issues and I have even had my used oil tested and the results were good.

TayMC197
04-08-2013, 11:14 PM
Rotella*

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-08-2013, 11:23 PM
I have a '92 prostar with 351W. I use Mobil 1. 15 50 as directed by PO.
Previous owner sent oil sample to Indmar every year for the first twelve years of ownership for Indmar testing. I have all of the test data that came with the boat. He said it was for the engine warranty. I think MCOCD is a pretty common trait here!

Mobil1 15w50 is a good alternative if wanting to run synthetic. It has slightly less ZDDP than VR1

homer12
04-09-2013, 12:40 AM
Yes were bringing the horse back to life so we can beat it to death again.:rolleyes:
Valvoline vr1 20w50 has what you need without breaking the bank of specialty brand oils like brad penn and is readily available at any parts house even wally world has it. vr1 is what I run in my 351w .

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/6

+1, just did my first oil change as I've only had the boat less than a year

jhall0711
04-09-2013, 12:56 AM
VR~1 here as well....

pkskier
04-09-2013, 10:22 AM
Valvoline VR-1 20W-50

TRBenj
04-09-2013, 10:46 AM
Mobil1 15w50 is a good alternative if wanting to run synthetic. It has slightly less ZDDP than VR1
Actually, Valvoline (http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/) and Mobil (http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf) both claim 1300/1200ppm zinc/phos on the M1 15w50 and VR1.

There have been some oil analyses performed by guys on BISTOG forums, and there is some concerns that VR1 doesnt always have the amount of zinc/phos that they claim. That and the fact that M1 is available at Walmart in the 5 qt jugs for about the same price I can get the VR1 locally (~$5/qt) has me leaning towards M1 these days. Both oils are acceptable though, IMHO.

Shell no longer publishes their zinc/phos content of Rotella, as far as I can tell. Last I remember seeing is that it had 1200/1100ppm (which seems to be about the bare minimum), but that may have been reduced further to meet stricter diesel emissions. It used to be a great oil about 10 years ago, but nowadays, I avoid it on my flat tappets.

1redTA
04-09-2013, 10:51 AM
I have started to use this
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/zrt.aspx
but I'm a amsoil dealer ( sorry for the plug )

mikeg205
04-09-2013, 10:57 AM
Add in a bottle of Hyperlube - Royal Purple XPR 20w50 - just to add to the mix... :)

http://www.hyperlube.com/c3/Zinc-Replacement-Additive-c7.html

http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/product-categories/racing/#!xpr-racing-oil

VR-1 synthetic (blue oil) or royal purple (purple oil) synthetic - good for feeding the MC-OCD beast. :)

Seriously - all the above recommendations are great.. :) -

Jason.H.
04-09-2013, 02:55 PM
I use mobil 1 15w50 and will continue to use it. However, I was looking in the oil section at walmart and they have a small bottle of zinc additive made by stp. It was only a couple dollars. I wonder if adding the zinc additive also would be a good idea? (I too have a 1990 indmar 351w tristar)

TRBenj
04-09-2013, 03:15 PM
No zinc additive needed if youre using a good oil. Im skeptical that an additive would take the place of having zddp in the oil formulation itself. I wouldnt trust it, personally.

mikeg205
04-09-2013, 03:20 PM
No zinc additive needed if youre using a good oil. Im skeptical that an additive would take the place of having zddp in the oil formulation itself. I wouldnt trust it, personally.

I agree - good oil with high Zddp for flat-tappet.. are starting an oil debate? ;)

Not a Zinc additive or replacement... Hyperlube is an ester based anti-wear agent. It's base stock is is used in CNC machines to keep temperatures down and increase shear strength.

It's just personal preference for me.... It's also why I prefer syn over dino for it's shear strength in high temp situations.

mikeg205
04-09-2013, 03:23 PM
I use mobil 1 15w50 and will continue to use it. However, I was looking in the oil section at walmart and they have a small bottle of zinc additive made by stp. It was only a couple dollars. I wonder if adding the zinc additive also would be a good idea? (I too have a 1990 indmar 351w tristar)

Add hyperlube...O3Geetee got me on it.. I did a bunch of research on it... It's the real deal.... see above thread... I can provide provide pdf of product use - and it's not like the snake oil on the shelves of Walmart. 15w50 Mobil is great oil..

Additional wear agent is only needed when your MCOCD is high ;)

Lumbergh
04-09-2013, 03:29 PM
Mobile 1 10w-30.

Easy to find, boat is only used in summer climate.

Probably overkill at that. Change it every season, less than 50h of use.

TRBenj
04-09-2013, 04:26 PM
Mobile 1 10w-30.

Easy to find, boat is only used in summer climate.

Probably overkill at that. Change it every season, less than 50h of use.
Poor choice.

Not all M1 variants are created equal. The 10w30 adheres to a different standard and has a MUCH lower zinc/phos content (800/900ppm) that is well below what should be considered a minimum on a flat tappet motor like your Ford.

mikeg205
04-09-2013, 05:10 PM
Poor choice.

Not all M1 variants are created equal. The 10w30 adheres to a different standard and has a MUCH lower zinc/phos content (800/900ppm) that is well below what should be considered a minimum on a flat tappet motor like your Ford.

Will have to agree... at least Rotella 15w40... minimum... :)

f925
04-09-2013, 08:29 PM
Is there anyone that would argue the Mobil 1 15-40? If so why? I have run synthetic in nearly everything I have owned except my diesel, and I just didn't like the idea of 4.5 gallons of synthetic that will turn black in 700 miles anyway and PO on that vehicle ran rotella. I know the rotella will save me about $10 an oil change and VR-1 is roughly the same as Mobil. $10 per 40-50 hrs. does not bother me in the slightest, but given the option I would choose the synthetic over the dino for the same price/ performance.

Table Rocker
04-09-2013, 08:51 PM
I use mobil 1 15w50 and will continue to use it. However, I was looking in the oil section at walmart and they have a small bottle of zinc additive made by stp. It was only a couple dollars. I wonder if adding the zinc additive also would be a good idea? (I too have a 1990 indmar 351w tristar)
Mobil 1 15w50 has higher ZDDP levels and is formulated for flat tappet engines. You shouldn't have to add any zinc to Mobil 1 in the 15w50 weight.

Here are the Mobil 1 specs for the various formulas:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
Note that the High Mileage formulations have higher ZDDP levels.

mikeg205
04-09-2013, 09:07 PM
Mobil 1 15w50 has higher ZDDP levels and is formulated for flat tappet engines. You shouldn't have to add any zinc to Mobil 1 in the 15w50 weight.

Here are the Mobil 1 specs for the various formulas:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
Note that the High Mileage formulations have higher ZDDP levels.

Unless you have high level of MCOCD... ;)

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-09-2013, 09:40 PM
Unless you have high level of MCOCD... ;)

Too much ZDDP does not equal a high level of MCOCD, too much can be harmful to your engine.

Mike don't you have a GM TBI 5.7 under the dog house, As far as I know GM was using rollers all the way back to 1988. Using a huge amount of ZDDP is way overkill and bad for an engine it will create acidic compounds that cause premature bearing failure and might interfere with the original blend of said oil. The link you gave went right to hyper lube Zinc replacement additive, and of course royal purple doesn't say what the ZDDP levels of it's oil, if this is what your adding I think you might be over doing it, just sayin'

mikeg205
04-09-2013, 10:03 PM
Too much ZDDP does not equal a high level of MCOCD, too much can be harmful to your engine.

Mike don't you have a GM TBI 5.7 under the dog house, As far as I know GM was using rollers all the way back to 1988. Using a huge amount of ZDDP is way overkill and bad for an engine it will create acidic compounds that cause premature bearing failure and might interfere with the original blend of said oil. The link you gave went right to hyper lube Zinc replacement additive, and of course royal purple doesn't say what the ZDDP levels of it's oil, if this is what your adding I think you might be over doing it, just sayin'

I believe it's flat tappet from what everyone is saying here. There's no ZDDP in the Hyperlube... its and additional wear additive. I bet Royal Purple has the Hyperlube stuff in it because of the pictures they use are very similar the manufacture uses.

If I have rollers that would be great news... and I would probably drop the Hyperlube...but I thought only the LT-1 had rollers.

mikeg205
04-09-2013, 10:11 PM
link still good.... http://www.italmatch.it/cm/articoli/Arese%20brochure%2001.pdf

not the Hyperlube marketing - but what it's made from...

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-09-2013, 10:15 PM
I believe it's flat tappet from what everyone is saying here. There's no ZDDP in the Hyperlube... its and additional wear additive. I bet Royal Purple has the Hyperlube stuff in it because of the pictures they use are very similar the manufacture uses.

If I have rollers that would be great news... and I would probably drop the Hyperlube...but I thought only the LT-1 had rollers.

Only one way to know is pop off that valve cover your wanting to swap out anyway8p, I do know that since late 80's all blocks were roller ready but not all early motors were actually rollers, it is hit and miss, we have had motors both ways at my shop, for a fact when vortec came out in 96 all were rollers.

1redTA
04-09-2013, 10:32 PM
Yep the TBI blocks had bosses for the roller spider assemblies

mikeg205
04-09-2013, 10:40 PM
Yep the TBI blocks had bosses for the roller spider assemblies

huh? - what a language you a speakin' ? bosses for the roller spider?? :rolleyes::confused:

SKI*MC
04-09-2013, 10:40 PM
I just stumbled upon this thread and it got me thinking...sorry if its a little off topic. I have an 83 with the 351 PCM, roughly 960 hours and I have a spring oil change coming up. I have always run conventional because I wasn't sure if I could run synthetic in an older motor with that amount of hours. I'm well aware of all the benefits of synthetic over conventional, I just want to make sure it's safe. What are your opinions? Would a PCM engine be much different from the Indmar (when it comes to oil use)? Sorry if this is a really dumb question too...:o

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-09-2013, 10:51 PM
I just stumbled upon this thread and it got me thinking...sorry if its a little off topic. I have an 83 with the 351 PCM, roughly 960 hours and I have a spring oil change coming up. I have always run conventional because I wasn't sure if I could run synthetic in an older motor with that amount of hours. I'm well aware of all the benefits of synthetic over conventional, I just want to make sure it's safe. What are your opinions? Would a PCM engine be much different from the Indmar (when it comes to oil use)? Sorry if this is a really dumb question too...:o

Its all the same pcm and indmar both used ford long blocks ,if wanting to run synthetic mobil1 15w50 or valvoline vr1 synthetic 20w50 (do not use the vr1 thats marked Valvoline® Specialty Racing Oil ("Not Street Legal") are 2 excellent choices.

SKI*MC
04-09-2013, 10:57 PM
Its all the same pcm and indmar both used ford long blocks ,if wanting to run synthetic mobil1 15w50 or valvoline vr1 synthetic 20w50 (do not use the vr1 thats marked Valvoline® Specialty Racing Oil ("Not Street Legal") are 2 excellent choices.

Should there be any concerns with converting to synthetic at almost a 1000 hours? Or am i being paranoid? :confused: I'm all for synthetic as long as I'm safe to run it.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-09-2013, 11:49 PM
Should there be any concerns with converting to synthetic at almost a 1000 hours? Or am i being paranoid? :confused: I'm all for synthetic as long as I'm safe to run it.

Fact: As long as the synthetic motor oil and conventional motor oil meet the viscosity and performance requirements you may interchange (intermix is not recommended) them with each other as often as you want.

SKI*MC
04-09-2013, 11:59 PM
Fact: As long as the synthetic motor oil and conventional motor oil meet the viscosity and performance requirements you may interchange (intermix is not recommended) them with each other as often as you want.

Thank you for the fact! :) I guess ill be picking up some synthetic oil very soon!

88 PS190
04-10-2013, 12:09 AM
So, 1990 Indmar Ford 351W. Owners manual suggest straight 30, but I have seen answers all over the map in a google search.

Lets talk oil... They recommend straight 30, you want ZDDP...

You'll find that getting a good 30 weight is harder than it probably used to be - but there is a simple answer.

John Deere carries a product called "torq-gard"

It is available in st 30 weight, and it has loads of ZDDP.

It is less than rotella to buy, and it is the type of oil that these engines were intended for.

It is also inexpensive.

1redTA
04-10-2013, 07:29 AM
huh? - what a language you a speakin' ? bosses for the roller spider?? :rolleyes::confused:

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=C5I2BUz5lUYGhDZTk8QSP64HIBp7-qLADpuvPxTauxdbErgEIBRABIPiZixIoAlDdmsiOB2DJjrGH3K O8FaABkrG-_wPIAQeqBCZP0CyjFQ_MWQG_2aVGMO3ZkuA_I73l-b3FMxDXnT8PE8qiESUSVYAFl-C8C8AFBaAGJtgGAoAH1s5B4BK-kOXN14LliPMB&sig=AOD64_01rVDIoSeMgst6TGzKz_pW2E1N_w&ctype=5&ved=0CC0Qwg8&adurl=http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12371042%3Fseid%3Dgoogle

This photo shows the 8 legged keeper for the lifters, in the middle of the spider there are four bolt holes corresponding to where there are mounting bosses in the block

mikeg205
04-10-2013, 09:26 AM
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=C5I2BUz5lUYGhDZTk8QSP64HIBp7-qLADpuvPxTauxdbErgEIBRABIPiZixIoAlDdmsiOB2DJjrGH3K O8FaABkrG-_wPIAQeqBCZP0CyjFQ_MWQG_2aVGMO3ZkuA_I73l-b3FMxDXnT8PE8qiESUSVYAFl-C8C8AFBaAGJtgGAoAH1s5B4BK-kOXN14LliPMB&sig=AOD64_01rVDIoSeMgst6TGzKz_pW2E1N_w&ctype=5&ved=0CC0Qwg8&adurl=http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12371042%3Fseid%3Dgoogle

This photo shows the 8 legged keeper for the lifters, in the middle of the spider there are four bolt holes corresponding to where there are mounting bosses in the block

Great stuff - love learning new stuff.. so is there a way to know if the 95 TBI is a roller short of asking if Indmar?

dvsone79
04-10-2013, 11:43 AM
Another newbie question. I've got the indmar Chevy engine in my 99 Prostar. It had new oil when I bought it, and I winterized it myself, but haven't changed the oil yet. My reasoning at the time was I'd like fresh oil to start the season, but later found out that the oil can become acidic. So from now on I'll change when I winterize. My question is, would the VR-1 some of you are using be best for my engine as well?

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-10-2013, 12:01 PM
Another newbie question. I've got the indmar Chevy engine in my 99 Prostar. It had new oil when I bought it, and I winterized it myself, but haven't changed the oil yet. My reasoning at the time was I'd like fresh oil to start the season, but later found out that the oil can become acidic. So from now on I'll change when I winterize. My question is, would the VR-1 some of you are using be best for my engine as well?

With you having a GM 1999 vortec style motor, vr1 is not necessary because you have a roller motor, a good conventional or synthetic 15w40 diesel or marine rated CG-4 which is most modern oils is what you need.

TRBenj
04-10-2013, 12:15 PM
I would love for someone to explain to me how you can tell if your engine has roller lifters by pulling a valve cover. Methinks someone is confusing roller lifters and roller rockers.

Refer to the Mobil1 spreadsheet that I posted a few pages ago for weight/grade specific zinc/phos content. Going from memory, only the 15w50 and maybe some of the motorcycle oils have the higher levels you want with a flat tappet.

I would not necessarily count on automotive information to determine whether or not a particular engine is roller vs. flat tappet. Ford went roller on the 302 in the mid 80's and the 351w was switched over in '94... but none of the marine engines ever got roller cams, even the latest ones sold through 2002.

No idea when Chevy made the change to their marine engines... but Ive heard anecdotally that it was sometime in the late 90's. Better be sure before choosing an oil with low zinc content.

milkmania
04-10-2013, 12:16 PM
this might help
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=47730

https://www.google.com/search?btnG=1&pws=0&q=+surf+ballast+x-1+site%3Amastercraft.com%2Fteamtalk%2F#hl=en&safe=off&pws=0&sclient=psy-ab&q=351++oil+site:mastercraft.com%2Fteamtalk%2F&oq=351++oil+site:mastercraft.com%2Fteamtalk%2F&gs_l=serp.12...9130.9130.1.12033.1.1.0.0.0.0.96.96 .1.1.0...0.0...1c.1.8.psy-ab.RbizAJC0AOA&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&fp=79621e092276adf5&biw=1280&bih=683

1redTA
04-10-2013, 12:18 PM
Great stuff - love learning new stuff.. so is there a way to know if the 95 TBI is a roller short of asking if Indmar?

The block is set up to run a roller although the lifters and rockers are most like non- roller hydraulic lifter. You could always pop the valve cover and look to see if there are roller lifter and roller rocker arms.

milkmania
04-10-2013, 12:20 PM
http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005775850323706454504%3Agufmagvsc-s&ie=UTF-8&q=oil&sa=Search&hl=en&siteurl=www.google.com%2Fcse%2Fhome%3Fcx%3D0057758 50323706454504%3Agufmagvsc-s%26hl%3Den&ref=www.mastercraft.com%2Fteamtalk%2Fshowthread.ph p%3Ft%3D53244&ss=522j140474j3#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=oil&gsc.page=1

mikeg205
04-10-2013, 12:47 PM
The block is set up to run a roller although the lifters and rockers are most like non- roller hydraulic lifter. You could always pop the valve cover and look to see if there are roller lifter and roller rocker arms.

lol... yeah - like I would know what to look for... ;) so I looked it up - Peeking thru the oil fill I don't have the first I have the second. So at least I know I have regular rockers.

TRBenj
04-10-2013, 12:54 PM
Not many factory engines found in these boats got roller rockers (I cant think of any offhand). Regardless, whether you have roller rockers or not doesnt change what type of oil you need- so lets try to stay on track. The only thing that matters is what type of cam/lifters you have. Roller = very tolerant of oil choice, flat tappet = needs oil with sufficient ZDDP, or you risk wiping out a cam lobe. Not a fun proposition, trust me.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-10-2013, 01:12 PM
Not many factory engines found in these boats got roller rockers (I cant think of any offhand). Regardless, whether you have roller rockers or not doesnt change what type of oil you need- so lets try to stay on track. The only thing that matters is what type of cam/lifters you have. Roller = very tolerant of oil choice, flat tappet = needs oil with sufficient ZDDP, or you risk wiping out a cam lobe. Not a fun proposition, trust me.

Agreed zddp not needed for rockers. All you need to do is shine a flashlight down the square hole if you see the spider it has roller lifters. I never said anything about rockers up until this point.

east tx skier
04-10-2013, 01:13 PM
I would love for someone to explain to me how you can tell if your engine has roller lifters by pulling a valve cover. Methinks someone is confusing roller lifters and roller rockers.

Refer to the Mobil1 spreadsheet that I posted a few pages ago for weight/grade specific zinc/phos content. Going from memory, only the 15w50 and maybe some of the motorcycle oils have the higher levels you want with a flat tappet.

I would not necessarily count on automotive information to determine whether or not a particular engine is roller vs. flat tappet. Ford went roller on the 302 in the mid 80's and the 351w was switched over in '94... but none of the marine engines ever got roller cams, even the latest ones sold through 2002.

No idea when Chevy made the change to their marine engines... but Ive heard anecdotally that it was sometime in the late 90's. Better be sure before choosing an oil with low zinc content.

There was a bit of discussion on here a couple of years ago. I believe the line that was drawn was that the LT-1 and Vortec Chevys (98 and newer) had the roller lifters. If this is not correct and someone with a Chevy wants to dig deep to verify, I'd love to see the results.

As you know, I have a Ford, so I know what I'm using. VR-1 20W50.

mikeg205
04-10-2013, 01:29 PM
There was a bit of discussion on here a couple of years ago. I believe the line that was drawn was that the LT-1 and Vortec Chevys (98 and newer) had the roller lifters. If this is not correct and someone with a Chevy wants to dig deep to verify, I'd love to see the results.

As you know, I have a Ford, so I know what I'm using. VR-1 20W50.

That's what I found when searching before - but was not sure..

east tx skier
04-10-2013, 01:38 PM
That's what I found when searching before - but was not sure..

Nor am I (at this point). Best to just buy a Ford. :)

mikeg205
04-10-2013, 01:43 PM
Nor am I (at this point). Best to just buy a Ford. :)

......

AZDave
04-10-2013, 01:48 PM
I have been using 30w and adding STP Oil Treatment w/ZDDP. I was unsure of the Rotella ZDDP content. It seems Mobil1 is coming across as the best choice on this forum. Can I convert to that, and would I stil use the FoMoCo FL-1A filter?

mikeg205
04-10-2013, 01:54 PM
I have been using 30w and adding STP Oil Treatment w/ZDDP. I was unsure of the Rotella ZDDP content. It seems Mobil1 is coming across as the best choice on this forum. Can I convert to that, and would I stil use the FoMoCo FL-1A filter?

Time for a vote... I believe ZR-1 is the big winner then Rotella.

ZR-1 20/50 ZDDP 1300/1200
M-1 15/50 ZDDP 1200/1300
Rotella 15/40 ZDDP 1200/1100
Rotella T6 5/40 ZDDP 1264/1147
M1 Racing 0/50 ZDDP 1200/1300

Snipe
04-10-2013, 02:01 PM
Yes were bringing the horse back to life so we can beat it to death again.:rolleyes:
Valvoline vr1 20w50 has what you need without breaking the bank of specialty brand oils like brad penn and is readily available at any parts house even wally world has it. vr1 is what I run in my 351w .

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/6

I have been using this in a Ski Nautique since '09. The new owners hopefully will continue to do the same. The "new to me" Mastercraft Indmar 5.7 Vortec MX Plus will get this too if I find out that I have flat tappets.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-10-2013, 02:25 PM
I have been using 30w and adding STP Oil Treatment w/ZDDP. I was unsure of the Rotella ZDDP content. It seems Mobil1 is coming across as the best choice on this forum. Can I convert to that, and would I stil use the FoMoCo FL-1A filter?

Yes you can still use ford FL1A.

east tx skier
04-10-2013, 05:11 PM
Time for a vote... I believe ZR-1 is the big winner then Rotella.

ZR-1 20/50 ZDDP 1300/1200
M-1 15/50 ZDDP 1200/1300
Rotella 15/40 ZDDP 1200/1100
Rotella T6 5/40 ZDDP 1264/1147
M1 Racing 0/50 ZDDP 1200/1300

From all I have read over the last several years, it has been too long since Shell has included the zinc and phosphorus content of the Rotella T on their MSDS or tech data sheets for most people's comfort. Rotella used to be my go-to, but I need assurances on the content that will play nicely with my flat tappet Ford and don't mind spending a few bucks to be sure it gets what it needs.

I have read other reports of Blackstone analysis that indicated 1,300 ppm zinc and 1,100 ppm phosphorus, but, again, for my peace of mind, the company needs to be up front about the content.

FL-1A is my personal preference on the filter.

88 PS190
04-10-2013, 08:43 PM
Nothing runs like a deere.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-10-2013, 09:00 PM
Nothing runs like a deere.

Torq Gard made by conoco phillips I believe, and no mention of the zinc content listed on their website. Yes they say it has high levels of protection but without numbers I won't be switching any time soon.

88 PS190
04-10-2013, 09:37 PM
I believe you will find it well received by folks on bob is the oil guy.

f925
04-11-2013, 11:01 PM
It seems to me that while not everyone uses the same oil the specs are pretty close on the majority of the oils used. I think I will go with the M1 15-50. M1 has never let me down, so I will just have one more color of 5 qt. M1 jug to add to the collection.

JRW160
04-13-2013, 10:20 AM
From all I have read over the last several years, it has been too long since Shell has included the zinc and phosphorus content of the Rotella T on their MSDS or tech data sheets for most people's comfort. Rotella used to be my go-to, but I need assurances on the content that will play nicely with my flat tappet Ford and don't mind spending a few bucks to be sure it gets what it needs.

I have read other reports of Blackstone analysis that indicated 1,300 ppm zinc and 1,100 ppm phosphorus, but, again, for my peace of mind, the company needs to be up front about the content.

FL-1A is my personal preference on the filter.
FWIW, my last Blackstone analysis with rotella was 1087 zinc and 880 phosphorous