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f925
03-30-2013, 01:08 AM
Last weekend my wife and I picked up a 1990 Maristar 240 SC project. In it's current state is a minimally functional fiberglass and rotted vinyl contraption in desperate need of some TLC. Tomorrow will be the first full day of decent weather I have to actually dive into this monster and see how much more than I had originally thought needs to be done. As of now this is what I do know:

1. 351w Indmar motor idled, but would die with any throttling. I have the holley renew kit to rebuild the carbs and the carbs are off. After pulling the carbs I saw more rust in intake manifold than I would have liked so I removed that as well for a little parts wash.

2. Velvet Drive 1.52:1 is being lubricated by pepto. Tomorrow it comes out and thanks to this forum I have seen a couple of ideas for how to get that beast off the motor. Fortunately a buddy runs a transmission shop full of guys with boats. I can't complain about the price given for the rebuild. I know some of you have been able to replace the cooler and flush the trans several times with success, but seriously, this thing is 23 yrs. old and the price is too good not to just have it totally rebuilt.

3. Interior is trashed both the carpet and the vinyl. I will post some pictures tomorrow. My wife has decided that she is game for an attempt at tackling this project.

4. Like the majority of these boats I have been able to find it has been cursed with the miami vice green color. We are looking into options to rectify this, but so far it looks like we can get a vinyl wrap to cover the stripe for about $300-400 installed. Not a full wrap obviously but enough to bring this old monstercraft into the current decade. Once again not a bad deal.

5. The sliding door is actually in reasonably decent shape... minus the locking hardware that seems to be missing a piece or 5. If you have any ideas of how I might be able to get my hands on replacement hardware, or some other fix please let me know. If not, I am not too worried about this at the moment.

6. Electrical seems to be in decent shape other than the stereo and I am pretty sure the bilge pump or wiring is shot, not a big deal who need one of those anyway.:rolleyes:

7. I have not spent a whole lot of time looking, but I can not seem to figure out how to get the vinyl panels off the inside of the gunwales. I have to assume there are screws accessed from inside the storage compartments, hopefully that will be more obvious tomorrow.

8.My fuel tank needs some help. I have about a 1/2 tank of fuel in it, but have no idea if it has been stabilized or how long it has been in there. Sadly I am afraid that I will be disposing of roughly 22 gallons of liquid gold in order to clean out the tank. I also see that my fuel pickup hose has deteriorated and that someone monkeyed with the Al fittings and cross threaded them. While I have all the interior out I might as well replace the fuel lines as well. I am basically of the mindset at this point that I do not want to have to tear this thing down like this again for a while, so I might as well replace anything that is or looks worn that is not easily accessible. Once weather gets good I would much rather be in it on the water than in it trying to fix this weeks problem.

9. I will be asking for lots of input, suggestions, opinions, help, and encouragement. And beer.

Thanks in advance for your input!

nkorep2
03-30-2013, 01:38 AM
We want photos! :) good luck with your project, I'm working on a 1990 prostar myself that was in horrible condition.

FrankSchwab
03-30-2013, 02:47 AM
Get a can of DeOxit (http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-Laboratories-G5S-6-DeoxIT-Gold/dp/B007S6ZZOA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364622337&sr=8-1&keywords=deoxit+gold) for the electrical connections. It'll do a great job of removing oxidation, dirt, and grease, and help keep those electrical gremlins away. The PO on my boat left the cover on one year with water under it, causing both mildew problems and electrical corrosion. To get all the gauges working and reading correctly again, I disconnected all the connectors, and hit'em with a shot of DeOxit which solved most of the problems. Afterwards, I had to pull the gauge cluster, loosen each of the wire nuts, hit'em with a bit more, and tightened everything back up. My voltmeter now reads the correct voltage, the temp meter the right temp, and the tach stopped going crazy every now and then. Hitting the bilge pump no longer causes all the gauges to drop by 20%.

It's a $20 can, but it's sure worth the effort.

FrankSchwab
03-30-2013, 03:17 AM
Check the underwater gear. Get behind the boat, on the ground, and look at the rudder, prop, propshaft, and strut. Does everything look straight? Does the propshaft go through more-or-less the middle of the shaft log (where it goes through the hull)?

A good thing to do once in the life of the boat is to align the engine to the propshaft (see attached). This is a gross adjustment that controls how straight the propshaft is. The owner's manual alignment is a fine alignment that needs to be done yearly or so. It'll take you a couple of hours to do the full alignment the first time, so it's a nice afternoon job. Once you've done it, you won't need to do it again unless you run into something.

You might want to consider replacing the strut bearings (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=27489) while you're at it, and you'll have to re-pack the propshaft stuffing box also. Packing is about $15 for the GFO or $4 if you go for the flax packing, (but it's only good for 15 years or so :) ), and the strut bearings if you need them are about $70. A quick googling will get you everything you need to know about changing them out, but feel free to ask.

Check the steering. If it's not effortless, consider replacing the steering cable. It's a couple hundred dollars, but a bad one never gets better. Grease the rudder, and any other spots that the owners manual calls out. If you've got extra time, pull the rudder to clean out the old dried grease before doing so. Pull the starter and grease it. Make sure the blower and bilge pump work. Make sure all of the vent hoses going into the bilge are in good shape. Replace the raw water impeller.

Your local dealer, Skidim.com, or GreatLakesSkipper.com are great places to get parts.

By the way, the gasoline isn't a loss - just think of it as lawnmower fuel for the next five years.

Good luck, and keep us up to date.

/frank

f925
03-30-2013, 08:56 AM
Both of those suggestions are worth their weight in gold. This is my first inboard boat so keep that kind of info coming! The shaft seems straight and there does not seem to be any binding, however that alignment will be necessary when the trans goes back in. I will snap some pictures today and get them up. Thanks for the info and link Frank!


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psychobilly
03-30-2013, 10:39 AM
You can look at my profile pics if you need referencing as I have a '92, but BB454.

thatsmrmastercraft
03-30-2013, 10:53 AM
Welcome to Team Talk. It is always nice to see someone breathe life back into one of these beauties. My boat is also my first my first inboard and TT has been a great resource. You can learn everything you need to know about your boat here.

f925
03-30-2013, 11:08 AM
Ok, so thanks to some searching i figured out how to lift the motor and get the trans out. Easy enough actually though i am afraid i will need help getting it to the ground. Problem is i seem to have found a mixture o trans fluid/ oil/ h2o in the bottom of the bell housing. What is my next step? Obviously i need to suck that junk out but how do i determine where the motor oil came from? 91996


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nkorep2
03-30-2013, 11:48 AM
Can you post more photos? The whole motor and such.

f925
03-30-2013, 12:10 PM
920039200492005


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f925
03-30-2013, 12:13 PM
I would be happy to take any specific pics you would like, please tell me what is most helpful. What is the likely hood the rear main is shot? Boat has 587 hrs. The oil pan seems to be blistered from rust. Not to sure how I would pull the motor.



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f925
03-30-2013, 01:40 PM
Lunch time report: transmission is out, flywheel is off, rear main seal is out and going to grab a bite to eat and a new rear main. I will also be grabbing some pb blaster and brake cleaner.


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FrankSchwab
03-30-2013, 04:56 PM
Now might be a good time to take a close look at the damper plate (http://www.foleyengines.com/resources/tech-tips/zfhurth-and-borgwarner-damper-plates-shake-rattle-and-roll). Another couple hundred bucks, but if it needs replacing nows the time to do it, rather than after you put it all back together.

psychobilly
03-30-2013, 06:05 PM
You may want tpo remove that teak rope locker cover before it gets busted or grease all over it. Put it away for safe keeping and it will clean up nicely.

f925
03-30-2013, 09:35 PM
I took a good hard look at the damper plate. There are no hairlines or any damage to report. I took the flywheel, damper, bell housing, and bell to block gasket off, cleaned them up and I am spraying a fresh coat of paint on them. The teak floor plate is out and soon my swim deck will be too. The swim deck needs some help where it has cracked in a few places. The entire cuddy has been gutted/ labled and valve covers have been removed for blasting. Carpet will come out tomorrow along with the vinyl side panels. Good god did they use enough fasteners on those? Also the Al chair supports have been removed for polishing.


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f925
04-01-2013, 12:47 PM
92084
I found myself with a little bit of down time waiting for an appointment today. If I can get them both cleaned and polished i will prime and paint them tonight.


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milkmania
04-01-2013, 01:02 PM
You may want tpo remove that teak rope locker cover before it gets busted or grease all over it. Put it away for safe keeping and it will clean up nicely.

plywood covering would help a lot too:twocents:

f925
04-01-2013, 11:52 PM
92106


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Ironhorse
04-02-2013, 09:30 AM
Nice work! Keep the pics coming.

f925
04-04-2013, 01:48 PM
Ok, so I have been slacking on uploading these. Please excuse the messes everywhere.
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz56/markspiper/MLP_2619.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz56/markspiper/MLP_2610.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz56/markspiper/MLP_2596.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz56/markspiper/MLP_2595.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz56/markspiper/MLP_2582.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz56/markspiper/MLP_2577.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz56/markspiper/MLP_2571.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz56/markspiper/MLP_2570.jpg

The entire interior is coming out, parts are on the way to rebuild the transmission, we have finally decided on an interior color scheme/ vinyl for the entire boat, and today I am rebuilding the carbs. I am ready for this thing to start going back together instead of tearing it apart!

Ironhorse
04-04-2013, 02:08 PM
Great work! It will all be worth it when its back on the water.

f925
04-04-2013, 02:20 PM
Great work! It will all be worth it when its back on the water.

Thanks, I find it sad that someone let it get into this kind of shape, but to me a lot of the fun is working on it. We are ordering the vinyl this week and we are ditching the tweed interior for vinyl. Colors chosen are white, black, and silver carbon fiber and a bright lime green like the valve covers as an accent. The only part I am not looking forward to is pulling staples :cry:.

thatsmrmastercraft
04-04-2013, 05:58 PM
Thanks, I find it sad that someone let it get into this kind of shape, but to me a lot of the fun is working on it. We are ordering the vinyl this week and we are ditching the tweed interior for vinyl. Colors chosen are white, black, and silver carbon fiber and a bright lime green like the valve covers as an accent. The only part I am not looking forward to is pulling staples :cry:.

I can feel the blisters already.:rolleyes:

f925
04-11-2013, 10:41 PM
Once again my updates have been lacking, but we have made some progress. I have the motor re-assembled and many of my parts came in this week including my spark plugs, trans rebuild kit, and swatches for the vinyl. 92946
92947

I have started to pull the carpet and we are trying to decide on what carpet to put in it. I would love to hear any input on where/ what carpet has worked out well or has not.

Electrically I have found that both my horn and switch are dead. I will replace those likely this coming week. My other electrical gremlin was the bilge pump both auto and manual. Turns out the PO was a jack donkey and did a good ol' electrical tape twist and tape job in the bilge. Idiot. I will be upgrading my bilge pump from that puny 500 gph to something in the 1200-1500 gph range. Under 10 GPM is a bit slow for my taste should something go wrong.

Last sunday in the cabin we found standing water in one of the cubbies under the V birth. Seeing the low points all had small holes I was under the assumption that these were meant to be drain holes and drained into the bilge. Trying to clear junk I used compressed air to try and blow the crap out. To my surprise i felt bubbles under my feet like I had blown air down a giant straw into a glass of water. After some snooping I discovered those little holes were never meant to be drains and had no connection to the bilge. They are holes drilled through which the factory pumped flotation foam and it has been slap full of water for who knows how long. After some trial and error I discovered the only way to get water out of the foam cavity was a shop vac and 1/8" ID flexible tubing. I withdrew about 15 gallons of water all said and done. It stunk like...i will spare you all that detail. Just happy to have gotten 120 lbs of water out of there.

So yesterday I hooked the motor connections up, primed the fuel lines,got a 5 gal bucket and hose ready and started to try to fire her up. My starter relay hung up and ended those trials a bit short. I am charging the battery and I will be replacing ends and or cables and cleaning electrical connections before a retry. My wife has a couple DSLR pix I will post later this week. With any luck we will get to start on upholstery in the next week or two.

Saturday we are taking the CGA safety coarse so sunday will really be the only day I have to plug along this weekend.


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j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-11-2013, 10:57 PM
^ is your PCV valve hooked up to the flame arrester, and a stand alone breather on the other valve cover? You can't do that you will get misfiring and stumbling when you take it under way. If you wanna run the round breather thats fine just put it on the port side valve cover and move the pcv adapter to the starboard valve cover and run the pcv valve and hose to manifold vacuum either the factory spacer under the carburetor or a nipple on the intake manifold.

Look here for the proper way to hook up pcv fourth post down is a good picture http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?p=440530

f925
04-11-2013, 11:11 PM
:doh: Yup. good eye. I need to swap that around. the PCV does need to go to spacer. I got in a hurry and didnt reference my pre-breakdown photos. I bet that vac leak explains why I had to give it 5 sec. of start resulting in a solenoid lock up. I feel like the south end of a north bound donkey for that one. Thanks for catching that!

By the way the breather is connected to the flame arrester as well. I have 2 nipples, one 1/4" and one 1/2". I will also be doing a compression test Sunday. I will post results.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-11-2013, 11:21 PM
With that filtered round breather a hose to the flame arrester is not necessary and you definatly don't tee off one valve cover to both manifold vacuum and flame arrester. It needs one side port valve cover to let air in and the starboard side or pcv side to let air to manifold or out.

Here is my setup:

f925
04-12-2013, 12:03 AM
Yup, the last picture in post #20 is my reference picture. I should have my oil fill/breather on the port side and my PCV directly connected to my carb spacer vac connection. Nothing should be connected to the 1/2" connection on my flame arrestor.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-12-2013, 12:51 AM
Yup, the last picture in post #20 is my reference picture. I should have my oil fill/breather on the port side and my PCV directly connected to my carb spacer vac connection. Nothing should be connected to the 1/2" connection on my flame arrestor.

Yep, however the small nipple, 1/4" I believe on the flame arrester should have a hose going to the fuel pump for the fp overflow, I can't tell by your most recent picture if this is the case, but in post 20 it's there.

Tateau18
04-12-2013, 01:37 PM
Where did you get those vinyl samples? That looks like something I am wanting to use in my boat. Thanks.

f925
04-13-2013, 12:26 AM
Where did you get those vinyl samples? That looks like something I am wanting to use in my boat. Thanks.

http://www.diyvinylguys.com/
My wife says their facebook page has a 5% off coupon code as well.


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f925
04-17-2013, 09:20 PM
I had a little time to tinker today and discovered a tank full of varnish. (I had suspected that). I also found that my choke does not work. Can someone explain to me how the choke is supposed to be activated? I suspect electrical problems. Despite those small issues I was able to get her to crank for about 20 seconds before my bucket and hose couldn't keep up. I could not get her to crank again.


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j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-17-2013, 09:26 PM
The automatic electric choke works on a switched 12v circuit and has a spring mechanism housed in a plastic cover located on the side of the carburetor. These chokes are electrically heated to promote expansion and contraction. When the engine is cold the spring contracts, coiling more tightly. This contraction pulls on the choke rod and puts pressure on the choke to close completely. When the engine is started, the closed choke creates more vacuum in the engine, pulling in more fuel. As soon as the engine starts, a vacuum is applied to the vacuum choke pull-down servo, which in turn pulls the choke open slightly--just enough to allow enough air into the engine to keep it running. As the engine continues to warm up, the electrical choke responds to the heater inside and begins to expand and as it does, it begins to push the choke open.

f925
04-17-2013, 09:33 PM
Ahh, very helpful! Is this vaccuum internal or is there an external vac connection to the choke I am missing?


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j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-17-2013, 09:35 PM
Ahh, very helpful! Is this vaccuum internal or is there an external vac connection to the choke I am missing?


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Internal port on the carburetor.

f925
04-17-2013, 09:42 PM
Internal port on the carburetor.

Thanks! This helps a ton. At least I have a base line for troubleshooting it now.


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timvan
04-18-2013, 07:33 AM
Great project! Where in Ga are you?

f925
04-18-2013, 08:25 AM
Thanks! I am in Cumming, south end of Lake Lanier


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Traxx822
04-20-2013, 05:30 PM
Looks sweet man.

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f925
04-20-2013, 10:59 PM
I spent a few hours tinkering today and made some more progress. I got the engine started and running several times for 30 sec to a minute at a time. That damn water pump will suck a 5 gal bucket dry in a hurry even with a garden hose trying to keep up. How anyone expects the plunger style fake a lake to keep up I have no idea. I think my choke and idle adjustments need some tweaking. I also went through just about every electrical contact on the motor and cleaned them. Some were in terrible condition like these.
93491

I also pumped out 11 gal. of varnished and water laden fuel. The tank came out and got a good scrubbing and hose out. There was some pretty disturbing filth in the fuel tank.
93492

I pulled off the throttle leaver and discovered like several before me the snapped spring that leads to a mon existent neutral lock. I hope I can find a suitable replacement at Lowes, HD, or ACE.
I also got a new horn and horn button to replace the defunct set.

Tomorrow I hope to get the carpet out and tweak the carb. I would love to have this thing running smoothly before I put much more effort into the rest of the boat. I am still not quite sure why it seems to be so ornery. I also noticed it does not seem to be too willing to start immediately after it has been shut off. This is where I wish I had more experience with carb motors. I am not too sure how to determine whether it is running rich or lean. I still have not done my compression test either. I will make a point to do that tomorrow.


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thatsmrmastercraft
04-20-2013, 11:35 PM
Those connections are amazing!

I have switched to a plastic tub for running the boat in the driveway. That provides a sufficient water supply.

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=93498&stc=1&d=1366511688

Once you can keep the engine running and warmed up, I would check for a vacuum leak around the base of the carb. Using a little caution, spray carb cleaner using the provided straw around the base of the carb. If the idle speed up, you found a leak and need to replace the gasket. Remember there are two gaskets on either side of the spacer.

As far as the idle mixture goes, the base setting for the mixture screws is 1.5 turns out from lightly seated. This will make it run reasonably well, though a small adjustment might be made searching for the sweet spot.

The choke should blade should be lightly closed on a cold engine, and should be fully open within a minute of start-up. Power is supplied to the choke housing and will open the choke regardless of whether the engine is running, so pay attention to key position.

f925
04-21-2013, 11:09 PM
Those connections are amazing!

I have switched to a plastic tub for running the boat in the driveway. That provides a sufficient water supply.

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=93498&stc=1&d=1366511688

Once you can keep the engine running and warmed up, I would check for a vacuum leak around the base of the carb. Using a little caution, spray carb cleaner using the provided straw around the base of the carb. If the idle speed up, you found a leak and need to replace the gasket. Remember there are two gaskets on either side of the spacer.

As far as the idle mixture goes, the base setting for the mixture screws is 1.5 turns out from lightly seated. This will make it run reasonably well, though a small adjustment might be made searching for the sweet spot.

The choke should blade should be lightly closed on a cold engine, and should be fully open within a minute of start-up. Power is supplied to the choke housing and will open the choke regardless of whether the engine is running, so pay attention to key position.

Today I finally got her running and warmed up. She does not seem to want to start at a full idle. Around 1000 RPM she seems to start then after a few seconds I can pop her back to center neutral and she idles around 800 rpm. I can not get her to idle any lower, the Idle adjustment screw is not even making contact with the throttle lever. Once she warmed up I did spray some carb cleaner and I had no change in idle. So far so good. I do have issues around 3500 RPM but those are documented in the Engine Drive train section. Just because it makes me happy to hear her idle I have a dumb boring video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bsofiz43sT4

Other than that I replaced the starter solenoid and replaced the broken spring in the throttle lever so it locks into neutral.

f925
04-25-2013, 07:36 PM
Going out on a limb here... This isnt quite what I am supposed to find in the shaft seal is it? 93885



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Traxx822
04-25-2013, 07:42 PM
Going out on a limb here... This isnt quite what I am supposed to find in the shaft seal is it?


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Not good!

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f925
04-25-2013, 10:23 PM
I finally did my compression test and I used a vacuum gauge to tweak the carb a bit. Compression as follows:
1. 120 psi
2. 120 psi
3. 100 psi
4. 125 psi
5.117 psi
6. 125 psi
7. 105 psi
8.120 psi

3 and 7 are a little concerning, could this be part of my trouble trying to get over 3500 rpm?


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Traxx822
04-26-2013, 12:04 AM
oh that little guy. I wouldn't worry about that little guy.

FrankSchwab
04-26-2013, 01:57 AM
No big deal on the shaft seal. Clean it up, remove the old packing, put in some new, call it a day.

f925
04-26-2013, 08:04 AM
No big deal on the shaft seal. Clean it up, remove the old packing, put in some new, call it a day.

I am ordering my goretex packing today, that crusty powder seems to be all that is left of the packing. It does explain why my shaft slid so easily.


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bsloop
04-30-2013, 06:31 PM
Quite a restoration.
My 240sc is not in near as bad of shape but considering a full interior and more rebuild in the next year.

Don't want to clog this rebuild thread with a huge engine cooling debate but I have no problem running the motor on an engine flush. Mine has the Perko inline flush which makes winterizing and drive way running super easy. http://www.amazon.com/Perko-0456DP7-Marine-Flush-Valve/dp/B00144D86Y
I have never used the "fake a lake" plunger style but I don't think there is a problem there either. Just because it is not maximum flow does not mean there is not enough for sufficient cooling and lube of impellers. I have run mine for 10+min with no issue, you can watch the engine get warm, t-stats open then close with no problem.
Just a suggestion.

Do some research on marine sewing and upholstery, it is more specialized than auto.
Keep up the hard work.

f925
05-05-2013, 11:00 PM
I got lots o goodies this week. Unfortunately it has been raining all week and even worse this weekend. I used the opportunity to start my trans rebuild today. I was doing pretty good until I snapped my forward clutch cylinder in the shop press. Not a great moment, but other than than and one solid hour of swearing at and calling the woodruff key names that even I find offensive things went pretty smoothly.

Amongst the plethora of toys I received this weekend my favorite I have not yet had time to play with. I got a dual action polisher, 6 lake country pads, 143 degree T-stat, shop press, pneumatic stapler for upholstery, 2 v belts, SS staples, thread, heat gun, rubbing compound from 3M, and a partridge and a pair tree. This week we are supposed to get 4/5 of our vinyl (black is backordered), carpet, replacement forward clutch cylinder, and some decent weather. I really need to build a barn for this darn boat.


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psychobilly
05-06-2013, 08:16 AM
Sounds like you're ready to get to work!

f925
06-30-2013, 02:13 AM
Ok, I have been slacking bad on my refurb updates. I am sure I will forget some things but here goes my month and a half. I put about 15 hrs into cutting, glazing, and waxing. I am not finished, but roughly 3/4 of the boat is good enough until off season.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/a3u2y9yv.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/gutu7u3u.jpg

I got her running pretty well. I was having problems getting over 3500 RPM. I finally found the fuel filter and replaced it. I have not yet had a chance to crank it again and see of my varnish covered filter was the problem.

I rebuilt the transmission. Aside from the stupid woodruff key it went smoothly until I snapped my forward clutch assembly in the press. Found a new one cheap and got it all buttoned up.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/ajygusum.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/yvasavuv.jpg

I got the teak cleaned up a bit and oiled.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/evejepy7.jpg

I sold my sea-doo for a profit which I thought was pretty good. I never expected to make money on a toy. It opened up a little room in the mastercraft budget though!
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/azydegun.jpg

I replaced my thermostat, trans cooler, and bilge blower hoses. I upgraded the bilge pump from 500gph to 1500 and 1 1/8 smooth wall hose and bulkhead. I repainted my steering wheel and a couple of other minor pieces.

Today though the boat finally took a big step forward with some new carpet.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/ju9ybuda.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/hapyzese.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/ugenadah.jpg

I think that nearly gets me up to date.


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LYNRDSKYNRD
06-30-2013, 11:01 AM
Man it looks great! I really like the textured carpet. Awesome job keep up the great work.

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Flybye24
07-11-2013, 11:41 AM
I have a 1991 Mastercraft 240SC and love it! I agree it is a bit dated with colors. It has been real nice for wake boarding. I added a Monstor Tower last year and it has really updated the boats appearance. I also get alot of good comments on the boat. The high sides are really nice for the kids and gives the adults plenty of room to lean up against. Most of us stay standing anyway so that they can see all the action. Mine has a 454 also. Plenty of power to do what every you like. I tried to attach some photos but was unable to get them it to accept.

f925
07-12-2013, 08:53 PM
I have a 1991 Mastercraft 240SC and love it! I agree it is a bit dated with colors. It has been real nice for wake boarding. I added a Monstor Tower last year and it has really updated the boats appearance. I also get alot of good comments on the boat. The high sides are really nice for the kids and gives the adults plenty of room to lean up against. Most of us stay standing anyway so that they can see all the action. Mine has a 454 also. Plenty of power to do what every you like. I tried to attach some photos but was unable to get them it to accept.

I can't wait to have mine on the water. I need to do another update after this weekend. Do you ballast your boat for wake boarding? I hope the photo issues get sorted soon. I want to see the sc with a tower!


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f925
08-07-2013, 07:08 PM
I am hoping to have my upholstery back from the shop soon, however he is only doing the cockpit. The cabin we have tackled and this is where im at so far.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/08/8u9ybema.jpg
These have not been stretched and stapled yet but these 18 "loafs of bread" make up the interior seats.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/08/yva7u6u7.jpg
My first three v birth cushions and the center trim pieces. Originally they were foam backed with 1/8" foam. I had excess from the new bed foam so I cut it in 1/2 and made these 1" foam. It should make for a nice headrest when sitting up across the bed.

I hope to have the cabin reassembled in a week, and everything on the water in 2.


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bsloop
08-07-2013, 10:52 PM
Do you ballast your boat for wake boarding? I hope the photo issues get sorted soon. I want to see the sc with a tower!



My 240sc has a nice wake. I set up a complete bag system with a 400# bag across the ski locker, same 400# bag as ski locker in the forward portions of the side storage and some small bags that were left over from the previous owner in the rear side storage.
Also a large, 600# sac on the cuddy floor that filled the opening and potty area.

The boat is naturally stern heavy, especially full fuel and 3+ across the bench. The bow sac is most important to get the boat on plane and really fattens up the wake.
After adding 5 batteries, I removed the rear sac.
We rarely mess with the other 4 bags any more. I don't need the wake that big and it just burns more fuel.

f925
08-08-2013, 05:25 PM
My 240sc has a nice wake. I set up a complete bag system with a 400# bag across the ski locker, same 400# bag as ski locker in the forward portions of the side storage and some small bags that were left over from the previous owner in the rear side storage.
Also a large, 600# sac on the cuddy floor that filled the opening and potty area.

The boat is naturally stern heavy, especially full fuel and 3+ across the bench. The bow sac is most important to get the boat on plane and really fattens up the wake.
After adding 5 batteries, I removed the rear sac.
We rarely mess with the other 4 bags any more. I don't need the wake that big and it just burns more fuel.

I would love too see some pictures of you ballast, boat and wake!

I stopped by to see my new vinyl. I snapped these few pictures.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/09/dajegaha.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/09/u5epe5ag.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/09/myqeqy5u.jpg


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Roman
10-15-2014, 02:23 PM
Whats going on with this boat? Work looks great. I assume its done by now??