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View Full Version : 94 205 no start after warming up


bret
09-03-2004, 12:01 PM
Got a friend in the ski club, has a 94 205, 350 TBI. AFter the boat warms up, he makes a few passes through the course, when they cut the boat off it will not start until about 20-30 minutes have passed.

I used my CodeMate and the computer blinks 12, so everything is good in the ECM, no faults blinked. I suggested distributor cap/rotor since they are original on his boat, also wires, ignition coil and maybe ignition module. I just did all this two or three years ago to mine and have never had a start issue.

I was also wondering about the two-three relays on the driver side of the engine; I know one is for the fuel pump, just don't remember if the other one is ignition or not. Anyone had similar issues and fixes so I can try to help him out?

Footin
09-03-2004, 12:13 PM
I think you must figure out if it is fuel or spark.

If it is spark I would first look at the module, this tend to be heat sensitive and my be shuting down after warm up.

If it is spark you should check fuel pressure when the problem arises to see what pressure the pump is putting out.

bret
09-03-2004, 12:59 PM
I was thinking toward electrical, module etc. The fuel pattern put out by the throttle body looks just like my boat, nice bell pattern and he did change his fuel filter this year. I gave him my old spare ignition module to try and like I said, I suggested cap/rotor right off the bat.

Footin
09-03-2004, 01:06 PM
It's great he will have your extra module to try. I may be wrong but I do not think the cap or rotor will die out if it gets hot, with the fuel not being a problem I would lean tword the module and now he can test that.

CTPJ
09-03-2004, 02:40 PM
I have had the same thing happen to me a couple of times recently on the same boat/yr/engine. Mine occurs if the engine is hot and I just start it up for a moment to maneuver then shut it down. It will crank but not fire then, after 5 -10 minutes it will reluctantly begin to catch and fire. I have checked the spark while it is not firing and it seems to be fine. I have tried unplugging the fuel pump, in case the engine is flooded, and cranking it, then reconnecting the pump. It seems to fire after that but, I am not sure if there is a direct effect. I have changed the spark plugs, oil, oil filter, impeller, and put in some fuel system cleaner. I am waiting to see if this has any positive effect on fixing the problem. I will let you know. I also look forward to hearing if your friend finds a solution.

Todd

JimN
09-03-2004, 02:59 PM
The TBI shouldn't flood, but if it does, you can go WOT before cranking and the injectors won't send fuel. At least, by design they won't. I would definitely check for spark and If you don't see anything at first, put the pickup pnto the coil wire. If you don't get spark at the coil and yo have a digital multi-meter, check the purple/white wire at the distributor. You should see 1-2VDC during crank. If you don't see this, you may have a bad IC module. If you do see the voltage, look at the tach for RPM. If you don't see anything, check the grey or white lead on the coil, as well as the red lead on the coil.

bret
10-19-2004, 11:32 PM
Just an update on this: Since I'm an engineer offshore and Rhob is a FedEx driver(Airbus 300) we have a hard time meeting up. Well today Rhob said that the culprits were the distributor cap and rotor. Changed both and the boat has not failed to start after sessions in the course. Yes the distributor cap was corroded and so was the rotor. I guess all the heat brought out the remaining moisture in the cap and caused some shorting while trying to start.

JimN
10-20-2004, 08:11 AM
I don't know if you still have the old parts, but look at the rotor for a small hole where it fits onto the distributor shaft. If you don't see anything on the bottom of the hole, bend the clip out of the way on top and check on top. If there is a hole, the spark may have been arcing down to the shaft. You would also have had some problems at high RPM, under load if the hole exists.