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View Full Version : Quick help, LATE OFF SEASON WINTERIZING


Beg4wake
03-19-2013, 02:02 PM
Quick help....I just bought my Mastercraft from a dealer that kept the boat in a heated facility therefor they did not fully winterize it (i.e. no antifreeze through coolant system. Here in VA we only have a couple weeks of cold weather left. However over the next few nights it is supposed to get down into the mid to upper 20's. I would have to leave work early today in order to get it done...but should I go ahead and drain the block and run antifreeze through the boat just in case?? Or would I be fine....

02ProstarSammyD
03-19-2013, 02:05 PM
Id def do it!!!!!! check winterization forum for process

thatsmrmastercraft
03-19-2013, 02:05 PM
I would pull all the plugs and hoses to get the water out and perhaps put a heater or trouble light under the engine cover. I don't think you need to go the antifreeze route if your temps are only going down to the mid to upper 20's. What are the high temps you are looking at?

Beg4wake
03-19-2013, 02:09 PM
It's in the 50's today

Ski-me
03-19-2013, 02:11 PM
2008 X-Star....

I'd at least drain the block and disconnect the hoses. Look for the heater hoses/shower hoses too, if you have them.

You can at minimum place a lamp in the engine compartment to keep things warm or possibly a heater (just be careful not to light it on fire!)..... :)

thatsmrmastercraft
03-19-2013, 02:12 PM
I wouldn't rush hoe to deal with this, but I would drain the water out. You could probably get away with just a heat source under the engine cover, but it is simple enough to drain it down. Definitely no need to use the antifreeze. Pay attention to get the water out of shower or heater is you have either.

Beg4wake
03-19-2013, 02:12 PM
antifreeze really isn't that hard. Just pull the hose off the bottom of the RWP, clamp it around my clear hose section, stick that in a bucket of antifreeze and start the engine. I'm coming from a Moomba though and I'm not 100% sure where all the drain points are on this specific boat or what it takes to to it all. The Moomba had 2 plugs in the bottom of the block that the knock sensors hooked to for the main drains....is that about the same on this boat? (plus hoses)

Ski-me
03-19-2013, 02:12 PM
Can you also pull the kill switch and crank the engine a few times to clear any "extra" water too?!?

Beg4wake
03-19-2013, 02:13 PM
Yeah I was thinking of a heat lamp but was worried about a fire too

Ski-me
03-19-2013, 02:14 PM
antifreeze really isn't that hard. Just pull the hose off the bottom of the RWP, clamp it around my clear hose section, stick that in a bucket of antifreeze and start the engine. I'm coming from a Moomba though and I'm not 100% sure where all the drain points are on this specific boat or what it takes to to it all. The Moomba had 2 plugs in the bottom of the block that the knock sensors hooked to for the main drains....is that about the same on this boat? (plus hoses)

I think you need to let the boat warm up to operating temp in order for the t-stat to open and allow circulation throughout the entire engine....

Ski-me
03-19-2013, 02:14 PM
Yeah I was thinking of a heat lamp but was worried about a fire too

I have a simple work lamp from Lowes in my engine compartment just for good measure. Been there several months with a 40W bulb in there.

Beg4wake
03-19-2013, 02:23 PM
Good point Jeff....I may go ahead and take off...Take the boat to the lake and run it a little bit, circulate things a little bit anyway and get some fuel ran through the lines...then come home and winterize it properly, even if it only covers me the next few days...

Beg4wake
03-19-2013, 02:24 PM
We really don't have but about a week or so of cold weather left but I guess better safe than sorry

Beg4wake
03-19-2013, 02:41 PM
I think I've decided to go home and drain the water out of the boat. Scratch the antifreeze. I've also ordered one of these.... http://www.boatownersworld.com/xtremeheaters/xtremeheaters.htm .... just so that if I do wanna go put the boat in the water during the day in the early season I don't have to worry if it gets below freezing during the night. Thanks for the advice all!!

GoneBoatN
03-19-2013, 03:09 PM
If it were me...

I've always gone with the theory that if it doesn't have water in it, it can freeze. I would drain the block - that is not that hard to do. Then proceed on from there. Disconnect the hose running from the T-stat housing to the water pump. Then disconnect and dump any other lines from the t-stat that have low points that water would settle in. Disconnect the line running to the raw water pump. Disconnect the hose going to the oil cooler. Bump the starter a couple of times and you will get some more water out.

If you have a heater and shower, you need to disconnect those lines and blow the water out. Since they are small lines and small units, they would freeze first. A light bulb in the engine compartment is not going to help the heater core that is up front. The heater is a pain to get all the water out because the hoses to/from it have low spots in the middle of the boat. If you blow air through you will at least get the water out of the heater core and that should be sufficient. I like to dump a little pink AF down the hose and blow it through the heater core just to be safe.

I'd spend the time getting all the water out of it. Running it today or in two weeks from now will not matter much at all.

If that boat is outside tonight, add windchill to the temp.

GoneBoatN
03-19-2013, 03:20 PM
antifreeze really isn't that hard. Just pull the hose off the bottom of the RWP, clamp it around my clear hose section, stick that in a bucket of antifreeze and start the engine. I'm coming from a Moomba though and I'm not 100% sure where all the drain points are on this specific boat or what it takes to to it all. The Moomba had 2 plugs in the bottom of the block that the knock sensors hooked to for the main drains....is that about the same on this boat? (plus hoses)

Two plugs in the block (one each side), and disconnect the hose that runs between the manifolds/risers.

Jerseydave
03-19-2013, 04:45 PM
Two plugs in the block (one each side), and disconnect the hose that runs between the manifolds/risers.

One side of the engine will likely have a knock sensor not a plug, just remove that and make sure water pours out of both sides of the block. Disconnect hose as stated above. You should pull the impeller after cranking the engine over to drain water from that area as well.

Where are you in VA, Lake Anna?
Nice boat.....Welcome to the X-star club! :)

thatsmrmastercraft
03-19-2013, 04:50 PM
If it were me...

I've always gone with the theory that if it doesn't have water in it, it can freeze. I would drain the block - that is not that hard to do. Then proceed on from there. Disconnect the hose running from the T-stat housing to the water pump. Then disconnect and dump any other lines from the t-stat that have low points that water would settle in. Disconnect the line running to the raw water pump. Disconnect the hose going to the oil cooler. Bump the starter a couple of times and you will get some more water out.

If you have a heater and shower, you need to disconnect those lines and blow the water out. Since they are small lines and small units, they would freeze first. A light bulb in the engine compartment is not going to help the heater core that is up front. The heater is a pain to get all the water out because the hoses to/from it have low spots in the middle of the boat. If you blow air through you will at least get the water out of the heater core and that should be sufficient. I like to dump a little pink AF down the hose and blow it through the heater core just to be safe.

I'd spend the time getting all the water out of it. Running it today or in two weeks from now will not matter much at all.

If that boat is outside tonight, add windchill to the temp.

I assume you realize that the windchill doesn't make the air temp colder, just cools things off quicker. The way you worded it made it sound otherwise.

jafo9
03-19-2013, 04:53 PM
Definately drain it. I wouldn't worry about antifreeze.

willyt
03-19-2013, 05:50 PM
hmmm you have an LY6...

i thought those were all closed cooling?

GoneBoatN
03-19-2013, 06:17 PM
I assume you realize that the windchill doesn't make the air temp colder, just cools things off quicker. The way you worded it made it sound otherwise.

Yep, that was the point. Makes it more susceptible to freezing. Put two bottles of soda in the freezer. One in front of the fan. Which one freezes first?

Jerseydave
03-19-2013, 08:12 PM
hmmm you have an LY6...

i thought those were all closed cooling?

Only the SS series to my knowledge.

FrankSchwab
03-20-2013, 02:07 PM
If you've never done it before, make sure you clear the drains when you open them up. On mine, the block drains get covered by scale so they don't run when I open them. Poking a small screwdriver in the hole knocks the scale loose and I get a torrent of water out.

I'd spend the 10 minutes (OK, if it's your first time, 30 minutes) to pull the plugs and hoses, but I'd put a 40 watt trouble light in the engine compartment also. Next year when you have more time to make sure you do it right, the light won't be necessary.

Beg4wake
03-22-2013, 11:45 AM
Got it done...wasn't too hard. Come monday I'll have my marine engine bay heater too so that'll help secure my piece of mind. I'm a little anal about my boats. My only prob was getting water out of the heater. The unit is hard enough to get to much less get water out of it. Hope I did well enough.

JerseyDave...I'm actually in SW VA. My closest lake is Claytor Lake. Smith Mtn Lake is about 1.5hrs away too.