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stumbledog
09-18-2005, 06:41 PM
I was noticing that the rear corner of my '93 190 was always wet after I had used it. Today, I pulled the rear seat and pulled the floor screws prior to our early morning ski session.

Once on the water I pulled the floor up, and noticed a stream of water coming off my shaft, just above the stuffing box, and shooting to that side of the boat.

I am hoping that this was the problem. I did not see any other leaks, and this one was pretty severe. I didn't look at the leak at speed, but I assume water would be praying off the shaft with more velocity. I just repacked it, and I will give it a look-see tomorrow on the water.

Any ideas on other problems I might be missing?

OH, and the water was like glass as soon as the fog lifted. Good thing the DNR does not get up early..........It is so hard to find a spotter sometimes. I would have hated to not ski in those primo conditions.

Kell
09-18-2005, 07:31 PM
You'll want to make sure you adjust the packing nut so that you get about 15 drips/minute when in gear and at idle if you have not already done so. I believe that is the correct rate, but you might want to search the threads for "packing" and confirm.

stumbledog
09-19-2005, 10:55 AM
I hand tightened the packing nut as well as the thin lock-nut. I read somewhere not to over-tighten. 3 strips of packing, with the "cuts" 90 degrees from each other.
Is it supposed to drip for lube?

Kell
09-19-2005, 03:41 PM
I hand tightened the packing nut as well as the thin lock-nut. I read somewhere not to over-tighten. 3 strips of packing, with the "cuts" 90 degrees from each other.
Is it supposed to drip for lube?If I remember correctly, the packing rope should be cut at 45 degrees so they overlap when placed around the shaft, at least the instructions that came with my packing rope replacement from DIM indicated that or Vince at DIM told me to do it that way. Sorry, I just can't remember. Also, the joints of each packing rope should be staggered for the three wraps so they don't line up. Yes, the drip rate is so there is lubrication b/w the shaft and the packing rope.

wesgardner
09-19-2005, 04:27 PM
You can lock the lock nut back down on the box once adjusted...

Cloaked
09-19-2005, 04:39 PM
Personally (IMHO) I prefer a dry basement. I tighten the (now) graphite packing to 0 DPM. The dripping was originally thought to be beneficial for the (once) cotton "junk rings" (as they once were known). With the graphite material, tighten them down as you prefer but water won't lubricate anything. I relate to this opinion from years of working on high pressure steam valves and such. We dealt with packing leaks every day. AnyhOOO, do as you please my friend.
Cut the packing at any angle that suits your needs of installation. They should be place at 90 deg apart at each ring but otherwise the cut angle makes little difference. The packing will seat itself and shape its own seated characteristics once in use, so any dressing prep isn't necessary. Importantly is to place the connecting ends of each ring at 90 degrees or so apart. There is nothing incorrect about the other info posted here. It's all good. I can see a 45 degree cut as well but it's all the same in the long run (from my experience).

Holtrodj
09-19-2005, 08:25 PM
I'm with Sporty on this one. I recently did that same job, and was told by Action Watersports to tighten till it did not drip at all. The bilge should be bone dry (with the exception of water off from suits, vests, etc.) I haven't had to take the bilge plug out since...

stumbledog
09-22-2005, 06:21 AM
Took the boat out last night for the first time since I replaced the packing. The bilge was completely dry. This was a very easy and quick job that was made even easier by all the information contained here. A quick thread search, a trip to West Marine, and a half hour of my time is all it took. Now that is sweet!