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View Full Version : 1996 Mastercraft ProStar 205 Restoration


Tateau18
03-11-2013, 12:03 AM
I recently purchased a 96 ProStar 205 that had been ridden hard and put up wet... Literally. Whoever owned it before the previous owner had run it in salt water and left to sit for 2 years. The most unfortunate thing about this boat is that it had a flush kit that simply could have been used to avoid all the damage. The PO purchased it thinking he could make a quick flip, until he realized that EVERYTHING mechanical had to be replaced. I purchased it thinking i could get by with a long block, but it wasn't so. I ended up scrapping the engine. I was at the Huntsville boat show and ran into the guys from Rambo Marine who mentioned that they had an LS1 Engine at their shop which they had pulled out of a '95 190. They gave me a stellar deal for engine+installation, so I had them go ahead and put in a drip-less shaft seal and repair the rudder that was frozen. I got it back this weekend and I was pleased with the work they did. I have a long way to go but I intend to bring this boat back to life. I am very particular about my boats and am excited to get this one in tip top shape. The next step is getting the upholstery replaced by copy-cats and replacing the carpet. Someone sealed the swim platform and I am contemplating sanding and oiling. I am excited about the next steps on this boat and I will keep you guys updated with photos. Quick question, I would like to replace the steering wheel with a wood grain wheel, does anyone know where I can get one that will work with my setup? Also, I'd like to get the newer style rocker switches to replace the current ones, does anyone know if they will fit? I am thinking new dimension tower but there is not much room in front of the windshield to mount, where has everyone else mounted theirs? Thanks for the help!

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-11-2013, 12:18 AM
Good looking boat sorry about the salt damage, as far as the steering wheel, it will use a grant steering wheel, or you can try livorsi.com they have a bunch of custom parts.

Tateau18
03-11-2013, 12:19 AM
Also, does anyone know where I can order the engine hatch hinges that have a quick release pin for easy removal? Thanks.

tph
03-11-2013, 02:30 AM
Also, does anyone know where I can order the engine hatch hinges that have a quick release pin for easy removal? Thanks.

Search "Take apart motor box hinge" or go to Amazon or Ebay. There are many choices.

Tateau18
03-11-2013, 10:40 AM
Good looking boat sorry about the salt damage, as far as the steering wheel, it will use a grant steering wheel, or you can try livorsi.com they have a bunch of custom parts.

Great info, I just found one there. I noticed the mirrored finished decal in your photo, how does one get that decal? thanks!

96prostar190
03-11-2013, 05:11 PM
Great boat man, sorry about the salt water damage!

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-11-2013, 07:13 PM
Great info, I just found one there. I noticed the mirrored finished decal in your photo, how does one get that decal? thanks!

You can contact Jim at bay area watersports he's the guy who made it for me. 877-817-7774 http://www.bayareawatersports.com/contact_us.asp

Barefooter92
03-11-2013, 09:40 PM
This is the match to my '97. Althought you have the upgraded motor, nice! Not sure what switches your looking for but I found a site that sells the original ones cheep.

http://www.delcity.net/store/LED-Illuminated-Single-Pole-Euro!style-Rocker-Switches/p_796736

I think I purchased 5 delivered for under $30. I added a few in the glass infront of the throttle.

Good luck with your rebuild, I will be watching for your interior photos. Dont need interior work yet but would like to see your ideas on upgrading.

Tateau18
03-11-2013, 10:16 PM
Thanks for the info on the switches, I'm contemplating which kind I am going to use. If I keep the current panels, I will replace with those. I am hoping to get the gauge panels replaced with wood simulated panels with the labels etched in. These are the ones I am thinking about using, http://www.iboats.com/ROCKER-ON-OFF-DPST-L-E-D-Cole-Hersee/dm/cart_id.879765636--session_id.599315592--view_id.933215. I am excited to get copycats to replace the interior, I am going to get away from the grey vinyl, I a, going to try to get back to white mostly with black and green accents to match the hull. There is quite a bit of work to be done on this boat, but nothing I am scared of. Pretty excited actually to get everything started. I am looking at Kyle's motor box vent with the led cup holders, those things are awesome.

Barefooter92
03-12-2013, 07:37 AM
Tateau18: Check Great Lakes Marine on ebay. Every once and a while he has a wood grain dash from a Sammy Duvall these are the inserts your looking for on the prostar dash. Didnt realize this is the green accents, mine is black and grey, still nice boat. I actually wanted the grey interior (dove grey) as the oils from sunscreen will not show as bad as a white material. However that new carbon white they use is really nice. Viper Customs is laying down some nice interiors too. Guys on this site have some reallly nice photos of their boats through the process.

Jerseydave
03-12-2013, 06:20 PM
Nice project! I love seeing abused MC's brought back to life.

I don't think MC ever used an LS1 engine in any boat, that looks like an LT1.
There is a service bulletin regarding the steam tube for the cylinders heads. It needs to be re-located from the back of the engine to the front. This will avoid any temp spikes.

Congrats!

Stritt
03-12-2013, 07:57 PM
If your not set on copycat interiors, I would definately recommend Jim At Viper. The $$ he quoted for full interior and carpet was very reasonable and the work looks great! Check with Kyle on the dash plates to match your vent covers. The Sammy woodgrain panels on ebay are for a 190....otherwise I would have bought them for spares.

PE4ME
03-13-2013, 12:08 PM
It takes some stones to tackle a project like this. Looks like you are on the right track. These older DD with open bows ride and drive like any boat costing 3x the $. BOAT- buying all the little things (not to mention long blocks) put a true meaning to break out another thousand...
I did a 1994 PS 205 in similar condition. Complete gut job. I got factory skins through Jim and BAWS, banged them on myself. I sold it with the arrival the kids, was a said day as it meant a whole being out in what you dreamed. The guys on this site are unselfish, knowledgable and helped out along the way.
Good Luck!

Tateau18
03-13-2013, 08:33 PM
Thanks Guys! I am excited to get everything moving along. As you will see in the photos my steering cable was seized to the guide tube. I tried to get it to break free with heat and PB Blaster but it was too far gone. I have ordered a new steering cable and it should be here Friday. I am not looking forward to fishing that thing through the inaccessible portions of the boat. I am going to try and use either my fish tape or a LOT of duct tape. I have already had the rudder box rebuilt by the dealer so mechanically this boat should be basically next to new(for its age). I believe the transmission has under 300 hours. I have a few issues with the trailer that I need to deal with - ie. someone has removed the brakes. I might have a scrapper boat in town that I just found out about today, it was damaged by a tree falling through it. If i get it, it will come with a painted trailer, which I am fine with. I have no use for a salt water trailer and will probably sell mine in the condition it is in, if I can get the other trailer. I have tried, to no avail, to get the actuator out of my trailer. Those pins will not budge a centimeter. Can't wait until my steering cable comes in Friday and I can take this beast out for a spin. I took at photo of the shifter because the metal is pitting. I have heard that can be remedied, is that correct? is there something I can put on there ie. polish? Thanks for all the help guys! I'll upload the photos of the weekend excursion when i get in Sunday.

blackcreek
03-13-2013, 08:47 PM
More info for you
http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=33959&highlight=lt-1
http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=47153&highlight=propshaft+alignment
http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=37643&page=2

Check out more switches and custom cables here.
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Quick%20Connect%20Plugs/

Tateau18
03-13-2013, 09:18 PM
One last thing for tonight. I would like to get all of the warning labels and NMMA stickers re-created. Does anyone have a source for these? I noticed the NMMA sticker with the capacity on it is specific to model, am I going to be bending any laws or regulations by getting a sticker shop to print one? Can anyone take a photo of theirs off of a 96 prostar 205? Thanks!

Barefooter92
03-13-2013, 10:10 PM
Tateau: Mine were so faded I ended up taking them off and never looking back. I kept the USCG one of course. I am not a decal guy so it looks so much better in my opinion.

91108

91109

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-13-2013, 11:29 PM
One last thing for tonight. I would like to get all of the warning labels and NMMA stickers re-created. Does anyone have a source for these? I noticed the NMMA sticker with the capacity on it is specific to model, am I going to be bending any laws or regulations by getting a sticker shop to print one? Can anyone take a photo of theirs off of a 96 prostar 205? Thanks!

I too would like new decals. NMMA has new decals and capacity labels for sale but you have to buy in huge rolls and calls to my local dealers have came up empty...

http://www.nmma.org/certification/products/labelsanddecals.aspx

jamisonsbrodie
03-14-2013, 03:08 PM
I am not looking forward to fishing that thing through the inaccessible portions of the boat. I am going to try and use either my fish tape or a LOT of duct tape. .

Just tie a rope to the steering cable at the back of the boat and pull the cable out at the drivers seat. Then do the reverse to the new cable. Should come out easy. There may be a couple ties alongside the engine that you may need to undo, but overall this is a simple process.

Tateau18
03-16-2013, 04:24 PM
Well, I got the steering cable in but the old guide tube had to be cut down and recycled. The new tube that I ordered from Skidim had no threads except for the end and the block that clamps on to it was threaded. So, I just cut the torn thread off and adjusted the length, everything with the steering system works great now. I took the boat out this morning and I thought everything was running great....until... I put the boat on the trailer and found a decent bit of transmission fluid in the bilge. Not too excited about that but it seems to be coming from the bell housing around the starter penetration. I assume it is the shaft seal on the front of the transmission. I am kind-of aggravated that the guys at Rambo didn't mention that this could be a problem on a boat that has sat for 2+ years unused. I started looking around after i saw the fluid and saw that it is a fairly common issue with boats that have been stored for an extended period of time, especially with no fluid in the trans. I am assuming that I will have to pull the engine to swap this seal, debating whether I should do it myself or not. Here are some photos of the boat in the water and the bilge after I discovered the tranny leak. Can anyone give me any tips about how to keep so much water out of the battery compartment and the cooler box in the floor? Thanks

Tateau18
03-16-2013, 04:41 PM
Does anyone know if those additives that are supposed to stop transmission seals from leaking will work in this application? I'd be willing to try that before pulling the engine...

mikeg205
03-16-2013, 04:54 PM
I had to reseal the base of my ski locker and get a new plug. This kept bilge water from entering locker. I have a '95 so I am not sure how your locker is constructed.

Tateau18
05-07-2013, 09:00 PM
Well, it has been an interesting few weeks. I pulled the boat into the garage and pulled the engine. It was a tricky maneuver as my garage is pretty small and the ceilings are only 8' high. Attached are the photos of how I pulled the engine and re-attached. I did not re-align the engine and trans with the prop shaft after setting it back in, however I marked it pretty well before I pulled it out as you will see in the photos. When I set the engine back in the boat I bolted it to the bell housing first and then bolted down the engine mounts. Since the weather has been so crappy I have not even had a chance to sea trial it to see how the new seal works. Hopefully all is well. I am going to try and take it out this weekend. The last 3 weeks have been killing me with all this rain! Take a look and see. One weekend we decided to take a trip to Big Canoe, GA so that was part of what kept me away. One of the photos below is the view from our house.

Tateau18
05-07-2013, 09:07 PM
More Photos. My Dog likes to have forts made around him and my wife obliges on a weekly basis. I'll never understand this. I'll let you know how everything goes once I drop it in this weekend. Once I am sure everything is mechanically solid she will head off to the upholstery shop.

Jeffer
05-11-2013, 12:26 PM
Hey Tateau18, sorry I'm late to checking out your thread, but awesome, all the best on the refurb. Someone else commented on the helpfulness of this site and the unselfish responses from everyone, and I'll second that. I have a 96 Prostar 190 and have been doing refurb on it ongoing for a while (working on stuff even now), and it might be of help to you too. Definitely keep posting those pictures and keep the thread going, because it'll definitely help someone else and it's rewarding to get your stuff posted (reminds you of all your hard work).
Here's my thread, if anything helps you, great. I did use Copycats myself, and although the end result was ok, it was a fairly painful experience. If you read through all the posts here, I have never heard one bad thing on Viper, but you'll get 50/50 on Copycats...so buyer beware.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=44584&highlight=jeffer

Good luck with everything!

Lumbergh
05-11-2013, 03:11 PM
Nice work. That is a big job to tackle in your garage!

kraig1995
05-12-2013, 10:20 AM
I have been restoring my 1995 prostar 205 for the past year and half. I live in Ohio, found out about Copy Cat covers and started the process. I sent the my skins and $750.00. after 9 months and numerous conversations with numerous people at Copy Cat covers I have nothing. They lost my skins, They said they have templates of previous boats but they don't. "If I sent them more money and better pictures they might be able to put something together". Nice customer service. my only shot is to go to Florida and file a small claims suit against them. My end result was to use a local upholstery shop and recreate them. I have seen Vipers final product and if I had my skins would have used Viper. I hope you have great success!

sheckski
05-12-2013, 02:05 PM
Very successful project with viper and my 2000 205v. Detailed images can be seen on my thread under upholstery. Highly recommend them.

Tateau18
05-14-2013, 09:35 PM
I need to get all of my decals replaced as they are faded. Can anyone take some photos of their decals on a 96 prostar 205? It would be much appreciated so that I can send them to the vinyl shop.

Tateau18
06-07-2013, 09:06 AM
I am about to buy a Bimini for my Prostar. What size (height) has proven best for this model? I don't want it to be too tall but I also don't want to have to crawl to the bow. What has everyone else bought? Thanks!

Tateau18
06-16-2013, 09:32 PM
I have been running the boat every weekend now with no issues after I cleaned the fuel pump inlet screen. The LT1 is definitely a power house. Can anyone with the same year or close model tell me if their check engine light comes on when the key is in the on position? I have yet to see mine come on at all and I am wondering if the bulb is out. My last boats check engine light and engine alarm would come on when the key was in the on position until the boat was started. Not having any problems here just curious if I need to swap a bulb or light. I know I definitely want it working if I ever do have a problem. Thanks for the help.

Table Rocker
06-16-2013, 09:53 PM
I have been running the boat every weekend now with no issues after I cleaned the fuel pump inlet screen. The LT1 is definitely a power house. Can anyone with the same year or close model tell me if their check engine light comes on when the key is in the on position? I have yet to see mine come on at all and I am wondering if the bulb is out. My last boats check engine light and engine alarm would come on when the key was in the on position until the boat was started. Not having any problems here just curious if I need to swap a bulb or light. I know I definitely want it working if I ever do have a problem. Thanks for the help.
I have a '96 LT-1 and have yet to see the check engine light come on. I hope it isn't burnt out, but just doesn't come on when the key is on. Not much help, but we are in the same situation.

Schrade
06-28-2013, 09:55 AM
I have a 1994 LT1 PS205 and my check engine light does not come on either.

jakethebt
06-28-2013, 04:34 PM
'96 LT-1 here and mine never comes on either, ever.

charrison327
07-10-2013, 02:23 AM
I was curious about the light as well, so pulled the panel out one day and just made a direct connection to the battery to see. worked just fine