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cewilkins
02-19-2013, 06:17 PM
Iam starting to restore my 79 stars and stripes,I am new to boat restoration and would be very thankful for any of you to give me some advise, so far I know I haft to replace a section of a stringer that the transmission mounts to, I haft to replace the floor and all the upholstrey, The engine I have is in great shape and runs well, But the transmission needs rebulding, What advise would yall start me out at on these subjects and were do yall buy parts for this boat. Thanks , again any advice would be greatly welcomed

thatsmrmastercraft
02-19-2013, 06:24 PM
Welcome to Team Talk. You came to the right place in search of and and all info needed to bring your boat back to life. For starters, if the stringer under the transmission is bad, you should be replacing the whole thing. I have not heard of anyone piecing one together, but I suppose one could sister in support. And if you are in the process of replacing the floor, this would be a good opportunity to do the stringers.

Discount Inboard Marine has many of the parts you will need in servicing your boat. http://www.skidim.com/

You can get the trans parts from SKIDIM and do the work yourself if you are reasonably handy.

Would love to see some pictures.

cewilkins
02-19-2013, 07:49 PM
Thanks I hope to post some pics this weekend, When you say replace the hole thing do you mean that whole stringer or all the stringers, the rest of the stringers in the boat seam pretty solid? I guess i shouldnt be concernd about cosmetics right now but i cant help to worry about the seating, mainly the observation seat some one has took the origanal out and put just a bench seat, I would like to get a more orignal look out of it could I just buil one out of wood?,And back to the stringers is douglas fir the best type of wood to replace them or coul I use treated pine?

SWGA Boater
02-19-2013, 08:39 PM
Hi and welcome to TT. I am also in the process of a restoration--a 77. I am almost ready to begin glassing in the stringers. I have a little more grinding to do. I went with Douglas fir for the stringer/s replacement I read a lot of negatives on the web about using PT lumber and fiberglass. I had a hard time locating Douglas fir in the south, but the local building supply finally was able to locate it for me. Where are you located? I'm in SW Georgia.

liledgy
02-19-2013, 10:00 PM
Correct craft fan has 100's of threads on stringer repair/replacement. Their boats from the 80's had major,major rot problems. You will get far more knowledge there than here, I guess that's a good thing. It's a great site with very knowledgable people that are very willing to help.
Besides Douglas fir, some have used a composite called coosa with very good results ( and no wood!). Some others have used a laminated beam, from what I e read they are very good and resisting for. Good luck

cewilkins
02-19-2013, 10:05 PM
I am in monticello Ga just a liltle above macon, I have been reading your post SWGA and it has gave me a lot of info, I just cant get over the cosmetis What are you goin do do about painting your boat ,How would you go about painting the bottom of the boat? I know I may be asking crazy questions to some of yall but Iam just trying to get my self prepared for what Iam bout to get into, I dont have alot of money but iam very mechanical inclined and have always been able to do just bout anything I set my mind to.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-20-2013, 11:02 AM
Don't hesitate on asking questions. There are plenty of people with a lot of knowledge on here and someone will have the answer. This stuff helps us terribly addicted folks get through the winter.

SWGA Boater
02-20-2013, 09:41 PM
Before you talk about paint, lets see what your hull looks like. May only need wet sanding and polishing. I have saw before and after gel coats on this site that look awesome. You would have never guessed it was the same boat.

liledgy
02-20-2013, 10:10 PM
Don't hesitate on asking questions. There are plenty of people with a lot of knowledge on here and someone will have the answer. This stuff helps us terribly addicted folks get through the winter.

I didn't mean to disrespect anyone here��, Just that they have a continuous rotation of new people with stringer problems ( many in the 80's). In correct crafts defense they made a lot of boats too.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-20-2013, 10:14 PM
Don't hesitate on asking questions. There are plenty of people with a lot of knowledge on here and someone will have the answer. This stuff helps us terribly addicted folks get through the winter.

I didn't mean to disrespect anyone here��, Just that they have a continuous rotation of new people with stringer problems ( many in the 80's). In correct crafts defense they made a lot of boats too.

No disrespect taken on my part. CC Fan is a great resource for stringer replacement.

mikeg205
02-21-2013, 11:19 AM
.

I didn't mean to disrespect anyone here��, Just that they have a continuous rotation of new people with stringer problems ( many in the 80's). In correct crafts defense they made a lot of boats too.

I wouldn't call it problems... boats are from the 80's - so it's a restoration opportunity... sounds cheesy but the 80's were 30 years ago - water-wood-time.... the problems will be in the electronic dashes - water-electronics-time...

My money is on wooden stringers outlasting electronics from a time perspective. ;)

cewilkins
02-22-2013, 03:40 PM
I should Have pics up tomorow so yall can see what ya think.

cewilkins
02-26-2013, 06:50 PM
what,s the best type of sander or grinder I should use for inside my hull, for replacing some stringers, what grit paper

SWGA Boater
02-26-2013, 09:06 PM
Right now I am using a 4.5 inch grinder with a 36 grit flap wheel. Will also need something a little smaller to get in the tight spaces. If you had a 7 inch that would work good for the larger sections. I probably will go back over this with a 100-150 grit paper on my palm sander to clean it up. The 36 grit will really take off the glass depending on the pressure you use. Here is how far I am along. You can see where I have gotten to in the last picture.

http://ajphoto.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v76/p1452845044-2.jpg
http://ajphoto.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v76/p1452845064-2.jpg
http://ajphoto.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v77/p1452845082-2.jpg

ricford
02-26-2013, 09:28 PM
Thanks I hope to post some pics this weekend, When you say replace the hole thing do you mean that whole stringer or all the stringers, the rest of the stringers in the boat seam pretty solid? I guess i shouldnt be concernd about cosmetics right now but i cant help to worry about the seating, mainly the observation seat some one has took the origanal out and put just a bench seat, I would like to get a more orignal look out of it could I just buil one out of wood?,And back to the stringers is douglas fir the best type of wood to replace them or coul I use treated pine?

Don't use treated anything! Fiberglas will not adhere to treated wood.

cewilkins
02-28-2013, 02:30 PM
I think iam gona go with the LVL material to replace stringers do yall see any problem with that,Do yall think they would be to heavy. Also ive been told not to use pt plywood for the floor, I have seen good results using it though, Why should I not use it?. And what do yall think is the best method for making a pattern for my stringers?

SKIBUMM
02-28-2013, 03:34 PM
If you use PT plywood you cannot put a coat of glass on it. It will not adhere correctly. LVL might casue the same thing. I would use fir for your stringers and bed then then wrap them. Seriously go check out the correct craft forum there are a lot of stringer replacement threads.

cewilkins
02-28-2013, 06:16 PM
thanks SKIBUMM, Also I was thinking of my floor height i measured roughly 17 1/2 inches from the top of my hull to the stringers does this sound bout right and what is the best way to get a good level floor , I thought a bout pullind a string across the top of the hull "left to right" and then measuring down would this method be ok?

SKIBUMM
02-28-2013, 06:28 PM
Good question as I have never done it but there would be a couple of ways. first you need to make sure your boat is level to begin with I would suspect that is the critical part. Then measure down at diffent locations throughout and then transfer that measurements. Or you could mark one point and if the boat is perfectly level you might be able to use a laser transit to find the other locations too. If you are redoing the stringers they are the important part ot make sure they are put in level and true then the floor should be easy(so to speak) at that point.

SWGA Boater
02-28-2013, 09:27 PM
thanks SKIBUMM, Also I was thinking of my floor height i measured roughly 17 1/2 inches from the top of my hull to the stringers does this sound bout right and what is the best way to get a good level floor , I thought a bout pullind a string across the top of the hull "left to right" and then measuring down would this method be ok?

That is one way, but there are some other things to consider....Have you cut the floor out yet? If not, leave a little nib that runs the outside of the hull. Use this as a starting point for measurements. Look at my pictures above and you will see the nib I left. You should be able to pull your string left to right, but you really need to check that the string is level. It may or may not be. If you measure off the string and it is not level you are only building the stringer to that height and your floor will not be level. Fiberglass thickness on the floor may also vary and throw off your measurements. You (I) would want to correct this when you go back. If you measure off the top of the deck--nib you left--minus fiberglass thickness, deck thickness etc. you should get a rough measurement of your old stringer height.

Here is what I am doing...I am planning on cutting my stringers full (1/2-1 higher than required) and then measuring off my nib (highest nib point, minus decking, glass) and then cutting the stringers level to this "correct" height. This way I can be assured that left to right is level. I am sure there are other ways to do this but this is the way I am going. My floor was not very level left to right and bow to stern. It was as much as a 1/2 inch off. I am planning on putting a little slope to the stern to aid in draining. My stringers were very rotten and are not the best for templates. I did not even have wooden secondaries only foam. I plan on getting some #2 pine to shape and test fit my stringers prior to cutting the expensive douglas fir. The pine is ALOT cheaper than the douglas fir (5.00 ft). After I get it close I will transfer my template to the fir boards.

I bought marine plywood for my transom (ex. $80.00 sheet), but I plan on going with "good" exterior plywood (A/B) for the deck. From what I read, the glue is the same only difference is the voids are filled with marine plywood. I plan on glassing the top and bottom of the deck for waterproofing. Keep a check on my thread. I am a little ahead of you on the resto and I will try to add more pictures when I start installing the stringers.

Check out this guy on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/user/FriscoJarretts
He is currently restoring a Glastron, but also has videos on a Sea Ray rebuild that he did a few years ago. I am sure the videos will give you some tip and ideas. The videos are addicting. He also has a FB page and a thread on iboats.com

cewilkins
02-28-2013, 09:41 PM
thanks SWGA, I am planing on the same method your doing, What do you mean by (a/b) plywood iam up to date on most types of building lumber being in the construction industry but not sure what you mean, What about a cabniet grade plywood such as birch for the decking?

SWGA Boater
02-28-2013, 09:55 PM
A/B or A/C would be the plywood "grade". With higher grades the knots/voids are filled with patches so the panel is smooth. The A (top) side will be smooth and knots filled. The C (bottom) side the knots are not filled and left as the voids you see. I think any A/B or A/C plywood would be fine for the boat deck.

You would not want to use cabinet grade plywood (even though it is smooth/free of knots and voids) because the glue is not rated for exterior use. Look for something like ACX plywood. A (top) C (bottom) X for exterior glue.. Most big box home stores are going to carry ACX.

Hope this helps.

psychobilly
03-01-2013, 07:51 AM
Spend the money on marine ply. Exterior will delaminate over time. I have seen this in the wood boat forums I surf in...

CCAnderson
03-01-2013, 09:57 AM
Use marine grade plywood. The glue used to bind the lamination together is able to withstand water. Anything else will not hold up well and you will be back at in a few years. Douglas Fir is the most commonly used wood for the stringers. Boat building websites such as Glen-L marine also recommend white oak. Not red oak, supposedly you can use red oak like a straw because it is so porous.

cewilkins
03-01-2013, 10:31 AM
Just watched some stringer replacment vidieos and these guys are saying not to let the stringer touch the bottom of the hull they put foam spacers in. I was just gona set mine down to the hull will this be ok?

psychobilly
03-03-2013, 10:16 PM
Use marine grade plywood. The glue used to bind the lamination together is able to withstand water. Anything else will not hold up well and you will be back at in a few years. Douglas Fir is the most commonly used wood for the stringers. Boat building websites such as Glen-L marine also recommend white oak. Not red oak, supposedly you can use red oak like a straw because it is so porous.

And if you use white oak make sure you rough it up of the epoxy won't bond.

SWGA Boater
03-05-2013, 08:21 PM
And if you use white oak make sure you rough it up of the epoxy won't bond.

Not to high jack the thread, but the douglas fir I have for my stringers is 2x rough cut. I had planned on either sanding them or running them through a planer. Do you think the rough cut will make for a better bond. I plan on coating with slow kick resin/styrene before bedding the stringers in the boat. What do you think? This may also give the OP some points to ponder....

cewilkins
03-06-2013, 02:13 PM
I picked my douglas fir stringers up today from the local lumber yard, Man thats some pretty wood, Why is douglas fir the best choice for stringers?, Iam planing on beding my stringers in with resin and aerosil mix, I got to get yall some pics up LOt more grinding to do. I guess iam going to go with marine plywood for the deck, 99 dollars a sheet though! I cant seem to get a straight answere on using it, If the glue is the same in exterior grade ply wood then what would be the defference?

thatsmrmastercraft
03-06-2013, 02:55 PM
I picked my douglas fir stringers up today from the local lumber yard, Man thats some pretty wood, Why is douglas fir the best choice for stringers?, Iam planing on beding my stringers in with resin and aerosil mix, I got to get yall some pics up LOt more grinding to do. I guess iam going to go with marine plywood for the deck, 99 dollars a sheet though! I cant seem to get a straight answere on using it, If the glue is the same in exterior grade ply wood then what would be the defference?

Marine plywood has more layers with a more perfect finish. Marine plywood is a little prettier than the exterior grade plywood, but since the plywood is being used for a carpeted floor, there really isn't a reason to use anything other than ACX.

Defining Exterior Grade
Exterior sheets of plywood are graded with the letters A through D for each side, and the letter X that represents it has been made for exterior use. Plywood has a front and a back, and the front or face of the plywood will always be a better grade than the back. The letter A signifies that the plywood has no knots or blemishes, is sanded smooth on the face, and is suited for fine finishing. The letter D is the lowest quality of plywood, and is used most often for construction purposes. There is no need for construction grade plywood to be blemish free or finely sanded.

Read more: What Is Exterior Grade Plywood? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/about_6609028_exterior-grade-plywood_.html#ixzz2MmrkcTyl

cewilkins
03-06-2013, 03:26 PM
Thanks thatsmrmastercraft, So you agree that I would be just fine using a ACX or a BCX grade plywood?

cewilkins
03-06-2013, 04:56 PM
What yall think about the paint it might be hard to tell, Is ther any hope for it?

thatsmrmastercraft
03-06-2013, 05:26 PM
What yall think about the paint it might be hard to tell, Is ther any hope for it?

I assume you are talking about the gelcoat finish on the outside of the boat. Lots if info about compounding (and wet-sanding if needed) on here. It is amazing what can be done. New vinyl graphics from Jim at BAWS.

Lumbergh
03-06-2013, 07:14 PM
First thing I would do to the outside would hit the gelcoat, especially that nasty bottom, with some oxalic acid (starbright hull cleaner or powder in solution - cheaper).

Brighten up that hull from sitting in the water.

Then remove decals and polish gelcoat with compound to see where you stand.

SWGA Boater
03-06-2013, 08:24 PM
Where did you end up finding your boat? I looked at a chocolate boat before I bought my current boat. It was down around Pensacola. Really liked the chocolate and cream color, but the guy and I couldn't agree on a price.

If you are on Facebook, make sure you join The MasterCaft Project group. Lots of info on there also. The group is dedicate to stars and stripes boats.

You will hear all sorts of pros and cons regarding poly vs. epoxy resin and/or marine ply vs. exterior. You have to go with what you are comfortable with and can afford. I chose to go with poly resin and exterior ply due to cost. Materials/glass are better than they were 35 years ago, and also I am taking my time with the rebuild, so hopefully the workmanship will be better than from the factory.

Our local HD has a sale going on now for 3/4" AC plywood--34.00 sheet. The BC ply was 35.00 sheet. Go figure.

If you need a lead on bulk glass products, check out US composites. Alot of people on here and other places recommend them. I ordered my materials from them also, and they arrived today. No more excuses, have got to get to work!

SWGA Boater
03-06-2013, 08:26 PM
What yall think about the paint it might be hard to tell, Is ther any hope for it?

That will buff out nice.

cewilkins
03-07-2013, 03:04 PM
I found the boat from a freind of mine here in monticello GA, I dont know if its chocolate, it was a deep red but thats how bad its faded its now brown I pray that I can get it looking good with out repainting. Also, this might need to be on another topic but did yall exhaust pipe that leaves the risers go down into a 45' fitting then to muffler or did they hook straight up to the muffler?

cewilkins
03-08-2013, 02:30 PM
I just thought of an issue, when I go to set my stringer down and get ready to glass them, My boat hull flexes a good bit is this going to be an issue with fiberglassing and if it is how would i fix it?

SWGA Boater
03-09-2013, 02:25 PM
I found the boat from a freind of mine here in monticello GA, I dont know if its chocolate, it was a deep red but thats how bad its faded its now brown I pray that I can get it looking good with out repainting. Also, this might need to be on another topic but did yall exhaust pipe that leaves the risers go down into a 45' fitting then to muffler or did they hook straight up to the muffler?

Mine had a small muffler under gas tank. Hose was ran from manifold to muffler. I am going back with the stock type muffler. You can get muffler with the 45 degree fitting. Checkout skidim.com for mufflers/pics.

SWGA Boater
03-09-2013, 02:29 PM
I found the boat from a freind of mine here in monticello GA, I dont know if its chocolate, it was a deep red but thats how bad its faded its now brown I pray that I can get it looking good with out repainting. Also, this might need to be on another topic but did yall exhaust pipe that leaves the risers go down into a 45' fitting then to muffler or did they hook straight up to the muffler?

I just thought of an issue, when I go to set my stringer down and get ready to glass them, My boat hull flexes a good bit is this going to be an issue with fiberglassing and if it is how would i fix it?

You will need to block the boat up really well to stabilize the floor. My floor had been replaced and there was extra glass on the floor. It does not move alot so i cut out all stringers. If you have not cut the steingers out yet, i would only cut out and replace them one at a time.

DemolitionMan
03-09-2013, 10:26 PM
what,s the best type of sander or grinder I should use for inside my hull, for replacing some stringers, what grit paper

Roto-zip

DemolitionMan
03-09-2013, 10:28 PM
I am in monticello Ga just a liltle above macon, I have been reading your post SWGA and it has gave me a lot of info, I just cant get over the cosmetis What are you goin do do about painting your boat ,How would you go about painting the bottom of the boat? I know I may be asking crazy questions to some of yall but Iam just trying to get my self prepared for what Iam bout to get into, I dont have alot of money but iam very mechanical inclined and have always been able to do just bout anything I set my mind to.

I'm in Augusta. You can flip them pretty easy.

cewilkins
03-10-2013, 11:59 AM
i just made a pattern for a couple of my stringers and dry fit them in place they look pretty good, i have a concern though, hope its normal, the stringers in my boat which were a guess factory, fall a little over a inch from the transom towards the bow . it looks like they would fall the other way. is yalls the same way?

SWGA Boater
03-10-2013, 03:35 PM
i just made a pattern for a couple of my stringers and dry fit them in place they look pretty good, i have a concern though, hope its normal, the stringers in my boat which were a guess factory, fall a little over a inch from the transom towards the bow . it looks like they would fall the other way. is yalls the same way?

Hmmm...mine was level but my floor had been replaced.

cewilkins
03-29-2013, 06:19 PM
Making some progress weather has sucked around here . Will have more pics up saturday, ?? What are the tubes or should I say cylinders that the speedo tubes run into and out that are mounted on the transom, And should I do anything to them?

mikeg205
03-29-2013, 08:21 PM
Making some progress weather has sucked around here . Will have more pics up saturday, ?? What are the tubes or should I say cylinders that the speedo tubes run into and out that are mounted on the transom, And should I do anything to them?

They are pressure tubes that equalize the pressure to the speedo's...

cewilkins
03-30-2013, 02:53 PM
Is ther any maintnace on the pressure tubes? And also the bracket that holds the sterring cables before they attach to the ruder mine was mounted to the stringer I see others mounted to the hull, Will I be ok by reataching it to the stringer?

SWGA Boater
03-30-2013, 04:47 PM
Is ther any maintnace on the pressure tubes? And also the bracket that holds the sterring cables before they attach to the ruder mine was mounted to the stringer I see others mounted to the hull, Will I be ok by reataching it to the stringer?

Good question. My steering cabel mount was mounted to the stringerl also. I thought about relocating to hull to avoid putting more holes in the stringers, but haven't made up my mind. We will see what others think. How far along are you with your grinding and stringers. I did some more grinding yesterday and have the right side of the boat 99% done and about half of the left side to complete. I am hoping by next weekend to be glassing in the new transom.

What did you ever decide about the floor? Go back with factory incline or install level?

Ansley

cewilkins
04-01-2013, 05:10 PM
SWGA, I am done with right side stringers 90% done with left I have one more day left with fiberglassing then another on transom, I went back how my old stringers were it was really a decline from transom to bo I hope that wasent a mistake but ther glassed in now. I also decided that I am going to go with a bcx ply wood just cant see spending the money on marine ply when iam just gona cover it with carpet, How is your swim platform? mine is a lilttle rough gona make the best I can with it though till next year . Then try to get a teke one

CC2MC
04-01-2013, 05:31 PM
Looking good. You will have a lot of blood sweat and tears in this when completed with an extremely high sense of satisfaction. Can't wait to see the finished product.

If the stringers get higher going aft, then when the engine is in and it is sitting in the water, would it be level?

cewilkins
04-01-2013, 09:44 PM
That is what Iam hoping for CC2MC, But they for sure decline just a little over an inch from transom towards bow!

SWGA Boater
04-01-2013, 11:53 PM
Looking good. You will have a lot of blood sweat and tears in this when completed with an extremely high sense of satisfaction. Can't wait to see the finished product.

If the stringers get higher going aft, then when the engine is in and it is sitting in the water, would it be level?

Interesting....have never thought about it this way. Maybe someone else will chime in.