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View Full Version : Wet sanding, then 3m Clear Bra?


Aric'sX15
02-19-2013, 12:30 AM
Well im tired of people scratching the transom of the boat up, even with the transom saver on the teak. I need some advice on how to wetsand, what to use and how to do it. Ill try and get some pictures up of it soon.

any recommendation for wetsanding products? then when completely done bringing the transom back to life, im contemplating putting 3M clear bra on it to prevent scratches. any one with experience with this?
thanks for the help!

Aric'sX15
02-19-2013, 12:34 AM
Mods can move my post if necessary.. its late and i forgot to post it in the appearance section.

FourFourty
02-19-2013, 08:04 AM
Foor deeper imperfections-
1-Start with 400 grit and be very careful of how much material you are removing. Get the imperfection close, and switch to 800 grit. Feather the surface outward from the imperfection. Any imperfection that really catches your finger nail (.040 or deeper. Lets say, deep enough that a toothpick would set down into the void more than half way....Hard to explain....) should be filled. The gel is usually thick enough to remove even deep scratches, however, you will see a low spot there, after the repair.

2-Only use 800 to even out the scratches of the 400.

3-Switch to 1200 grit and even out the scratches from 800 grit. This is where you can start using water. Water, is only used, so that you can see the scratches, and imperfections better. Other than that, the water has no purpose.

4-At this point, you can choose to hit it with 1500 grit (wet), or switch to medium cut compound. If you hit it with 1500 grit (or even 2000), you will save a little buffing time. Being as I have a good orbital buffer, I usually go to compound after the 1200 grit. If you used 1500 or 2000, even out the scratches from the 1200, and then switch to medium cut compound.

5-Once the surface looks very smooth, and you can only see the swirls/scratches under direct, bright light, switch to a fine cut compound. (proper lighting is VERY important). Continue with a fine compound until only fine swirl marks can be seen, when looking at the surface at a 45 degree angle, with light shining directly on the surface.

6-Swirl remover until mirror shine.

For Scuffs, marks, and light Scratches- Start at step 3.

I rarely ever wet sand. I have done it so much on cars, and boats, that I dont need to anymore. I will usually have a rag with wax/grease remover on it, and use it to swipe the surface after each step. This removes any chance of contamination, and also puts a gloss on the surface, so that I can see any leftover imperfections. It also saves myself from cleaning a mess after.

FourFourty
02-19-2013, 08:09 AM
Oh, and I think the 3M clear-bra is a fantastic idea. I plan to do that on my new boat.

boogie420
02-19-2013, 10:27 AM
Guy at service dept txmc think his name was earnie does this. Think was only 400 bucks for the entire boat. No 3m just the sand/buff process.

TXMC-06X2
02-19-2013, 10:44 AM
Were the guys at TXMC able to give you contact info on Earnie?

boogie420
02-19-2013, 11:04 AM
i didn't save the number.i went up there and asked service dept about buff then he gave me a call few hours later. his bill was separate from the work i had done while it was there.

Aric'sX15
02-19-2013, 11:53 AM
I think he was going to do my boat a few weeks ago before I picked it up, but I was far too eager to get back on the water. I would contact Jeff in service, as he was going hook me up with him.

Fourfourty, thanks for the info! Going to try and knock it out this weekend! Incredibly jealous on your new boat, she's a beauty!!

CantRepeat
02-19-2013, 12:03 PM
Post a couple of photos of the damage.

And remember, go with the least aggressive approach first. You can't magically un-sand the gel coat once it's gone.

Aric'sX15
02-19-2013, 01:22 PM
I'll try and grab a few pictures of it this week!

Forrest-X45
02-19-2013, 04:26 PM
I installed the clear bra on the transom and around the outer edges of the swim platform. It has held up very well and it is only peeling up on the back edge where wakeboards slide across. Most of my buddies don't slide on the platform, only the new riders and why the clear bra is in place.

I recommend the clear bra if you want to protect against scratches.

Aric'sX15
02-19-2013, 06:52 PM
Awesome! thanks for the feedback! did you put it on yourself?

Forrest-X45
02-19-2013, 07:44 PM
I didn't install it myself. I left it to the professionals so it would look good and be hardly noticable.

FourFourty
02-19-2013, 08:03 PM
Fourfourty, thanks for the info! Going to try and knock it out this weekend! Incredibly jealous on your new boat, she's a beauty!!

Thanks! I am excited! Didn't get any more photos, but I am sure it is probably all done now. Maybe they will send something tomorrow....

And good luck!! As commented below, be careful. Luckily, gelcoat is much harder to mess up than something like a car finish..... You should be all set. I am assuming that you mostly just have scuff marks, and mild scratches from boards and stuff. It should be a cakewalk. Just take your time, dont remove more material than needed, feather the repair, and dont overheat the surface with the buffer.

Post a couple of photos of the damage.

And remember, go with the least aggressive approach first. You can't magically un-sand the gel coat once it's gone.

Aric'sX15
02-19-2013, 10:27 PM
I didn't install it myself. I left it to the professionals so it would look good and be hardly noticable.

How much did it cost? if you dont mind?

Aric'sX15
02-19-2013, 10:29 PM
Thanks! I am excited! Didn't get any more photos, but I am sure it is probably all done now. Maybe they will send something tomorrow....

And good luck!! As commented below, be careful. Luckily, gelcoat is much harder to mess up than something like a car finish..... You should be all set. I am assuming that you mostly just have scuff marks, and mild scratches from boards and stuff. It should be a cakewalk. Just take your time, dont remove more material than needed, feather the repair, and dont overheat the surface with the buffer.

To bad you dont live by me, id definitely bum some rides off you! haha. i went and got some wool buffer pads today. what is a good compound to hit it with?

FourFourty
02-20-2013, 08:24 AM
Are you using an orbital buffer?? What RPM range can you work with on it? Keep your speed below 300 rpm with wool pads....if you can. I have not used a ton of different compounds on boats. This is what I use, and they work very well.

Once sanding is completed, start with-
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2246_46475944



And then-
http://www.meguiars.com/content/global/product/2897_lg.jpg


And then-
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2246_30421992
OR
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2250_501383655



I am sure there is a debate about using automotive clearcoat products to restore gel, however, the automotive products seem to work better to me. The meguirs power cut marine compound is good stuff though. I Always use that for a mid stage. After the power cut, there is virtually no need for a swirl remover, but I do it anyhow.

On another note, if you do not have one of these- (or similar) I highly recommend it. An orbital, with great speed control, makes the job very easy, harder to screw up, and less messy when applying compound. Unfortunately, it costs a pretty penny. :confused:

http://www.autogeek.net/flex-pe14-2-polishing-kit.html

Aric'sX15
02-20-2013, 12:30 PM
I just picked up a variable speed orbital from Harbor freight. Thanks for the info! My boat will be scratch free in no time!

pap
02-20-2013, 12:31 PM
where do you find someone to put the 3m stuff on? I'd like to put it on transom of new boat coming as our last boat has some board rash back there and would like to avoid it.

Nordicron
02-20-2013, 01:06 PM
where do you find someone to put the 3m stuff on? I'd like to put it on transom of new boat coming as our last boat has some board rash back there and would like to avoid it.

Hard to believe this stuff stays in place. It looks like to apply you just get it really wet and put it in place and squeegee out the air bubbles. Being a water activated glue of some sort seems it would peel in an marine environment. I do want to try this also as most people aren't as careful back there as I am! Also be nice to use on the edge of the platform!

Forrest-X45
02-20-2013, 04:16 PM
How much did it cost? if you dont mind?

It was a few years ago, so if my memory serves me well it was around $600. That price also included a custom application to my trailer as well. The transom and swim platform were a small portion of the total cost, around $150-200. I don't like rock dings and scratches!! ;)

Yes - I have a serious MCOCD issue. When I sold my Prostar 205 a few years ago the buyers thought it was brand new even though it was 8 years old.

Aric'sX15
02-20-2013, 05:56 PM
I have a serious case of it as well.... not quite like mike, but i HATE scratches as well! thanks for the pricing!

Aric'sX15
02-25-2013, 11:12 PM
Heres a few of the scratches--
Dont give me crap for the teak, i know its bad! haha.

CantRepeat
02-26-2013, 09:01 AM
They look more like scuffs rather then deep scratches. I personally would not use sand paper on it. I would go with a black foam pad and some semi aggressive compound.

Aric'sX15
02-26-2013, 01:31 PM
where can i find a 7 inch one of those?

CantRepeat
02-26-2013, 03:40 PM
where can i find a 7 inch one of those?

autogeek.net has both green and black 7 inch hook and loop pads.

Aric'sX15
02-26-2013, 04:09 PM
jeez 3m hook and loop pads are 50 bucks?! paid less than that for my buffer from harbor freight!

CantRepeat
02-26-2013, 05:26 PM
jeez 3m hook and loop pads are 50 bucks?! paid less than that for my buffer from harbor freight!


http://www.autogeek.net/ru180mm7ingr.html?productid=ru180mm7ingr&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE&gclid=CI2UzMrq1LUCFQSynQodtUIAxQ

Aric'sX15
01-14-2014, 12:37 AM
Alright I'm bumping an old thread of mine here. Been hitting it hard trying to get a buddies 2006 X1 back to her former glory. The gunnels of the bow had orange peel like a mofo! so I used a cutting compound (meguiars 91 to be exact) with the hard core cutting pad from auto geek. Fast forward to the swirl remover, then the polish. Orange peel was still there. So, Bud had the bright idea of wet sanding. We've done (in order) 600 grit, 800, 1000,1200,2000. Orange peel is finally gone, but the bad news is I can't get the deep scratches out of the hull from the wet sanding. We even purchased the 3M cutting pad and 3m compound. I've buffed the daylights out of it with the orbital buffer all the way up to the finishing compound and they're still there. So, what's the easiest way to get these moronic scratches out??? Ill grab some pictures later this week for reference, but we are beyond frustrated and ready to get this done!!!

blackhawk
01-14-2014, 10:02 AM
Aric - If you are still seeing the sanding scratches from the rougher grits, you probably need to go back and do more wet sanding. If the 600 grit scratches are showing, start back with the 800. Each time that you change grit, change directions by 90 degrees. This will help you tell if you are getting out the scratches from the previous grit. Here is a link where I did a write up on the materials/methods that I used. There are many types of 3M pads and compounds, so you have to pick the right combination to work well together. I did a lot of research on this because I had general OCD long before I had MCOCD.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=57791

Aric'sX15
01-14-2014, 11:18 AM
So you did sided to side and up and down motions? That might be my issue as all we've done is circular motions.

blackhawk
01-14-2014, 01:30 PM
Yea, side to side is how I did it. Circular is fine, but the side to side and changing directions makes it easier to tell when you have smoothed out the previous grit marks.

Aric'sX15
01-14-2014, 01:31 PM
Okay that makes a lot of sense! Looks like im starting all over then. Your boat looks great, hope to get this boat looking good asap!

SSMoose
01-14-2014, 01:59 PM
Aric - I did a lot of research on this because I had general OCD long before I had MCOCD.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=57791

MCOCD is just an extension of my inherent OCD--it gives me an outlet that is productive!
:D

Aric'sX15
01-14-2014, 07:01 PM
Ugh logged a few hours today. Still cant get the dang scratches out!

Wingnut
01-23-2014, 08:27 AM
There are a million ways to do this and lots of opinions so heres another one!! I've have really good luck with 3M product Marine High Gloss Gel Coat compound (on line or West Marine) and a high speed buffer with wool bonnet at 2K RPM or less - the product breaks down as you go right into a great finish- Check out 1998 205 redo in resto section and you'll see what I was able to accomplish- I did have to wet sand some parts but started with 800 and went right to the compound. Your scratches don't look all that deep from the pix - Agree that you might be better off not wet sanding. I was not able to get a good finish using the dual action polishers no matter what pad or compound I used (maybe due to inexperience) Worked my A## off until a friend who is a professional boat refinisher showed me the light. Chemical guys web site has some great finishing product stuff out there on their website. Patience is the best : something I'm not good at) but I was really happy with the result. Wingnut

gliff
02-13-2014, 03:39 AM
What is the result of your activity?

Aric'sX15
02-13-2014, 12:41 PM
Shine!