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View Full Version : I have finally seen the light!


BigBarney
09-13-2005, 11:34 AM
At least a dim glow.

Anyone that has read some of my recent posts knows that I have been struggling over a few issues lately. Here's the background:

When I first took my boat out this summer, everything seemed to be working fine. The next trip out -

1) PP would not display speed
2) Fuel gauge was not correctly measuring fuel
3) Deep cycle battery hooked to isolator was dead

Last night about 9:30 after putting the kids to bed, I decided to see what I could find out. Went outside to the boat and got to work.

PP: I first used a voltmeter on the PP plug running from the master module and every wire checked out. I gave up on that issue and moved to the isolator.

Isolator: My desire is to have a setup where the cranking battery starts the boat and the deep cycle battery powers everything else (when the engine is off). I pulled the side engine panels off and found the starter. I traced a large red cable from it to the battery post. The battery also was connected to a red/white cable.

Wow - the boat is already setup with the starter circuit separate from the other house loads. I disconnected the house load cables and turned the switch to on. Nothing worked, no blower, no lights, no radio. I then tried to turn the boat over (not literally - just cranking). It turned. So now I just need to wire the isolator correctly and I will have what I want.

Back to PP: Then I noticed something that I probably never would have seen if it had not been 11:30 at night (VERY DARK!). My perfect pass display was very dimly lit. No LED characters, just a soft green glow. And this with the battery cable supplying power to it removed from the battery. So obviously I have a short somewhere. Which probably explains why the speed display is goofing up. At least I hope.

Fuel gauge: Too tired to work on this. Could be connected to the above issues. If I can fix them first and see.

Back to PP again: Just a note to all future people who have the misfortune to know nothing about electronics and PP is giving them problems. Wires run from the PP master module under the floor to the bilge area where the paddle wheel is located (all this assuming your setup is like mine). There is a plug on the end of the wires from the master module that connects to a plug running from the paddle wheel. When I was inspecting this plug, I must have tugged on it too much. The brown (water temp) wire came right out of the plug running from the master module. These wires are very delicate. I could try to put it back in the plug, but I will probably just direct wire it to the paddle wheel. So check your plug connections if you have display issues, but BE CAREFUL!

PendO
09-19-2005, 09:59 PM
Barney - how is this all working out for you? Sounds like you are learning as you go to the benefit of others :toast:


At least a dim glow.

Anyone that has read some of my recent posts knows that I have been struggling over a few issues lately. Here's the background:

When I first took my boat out this summer, everything seemed to be working fine. The next trip out -

1) PP would not display speed
2) Fuel gauge was not correctly measuring fuel
3) Deep cycle battery hooked to isolator was dead

Last night about 9:30 after putting the kids to bed, I decided to see what I could find out. Went outside to the boat and got to work.

PP: I first used a voltmeter on the PP plug running from the master module and every wire checked out. I gave up on that issue and moved to the isolator.

Isolator: My desire is to have a setup where the cranking battery starts the boat and the deep cycle battery powers everything else (when the engine is off). I pulled the side engine panels off and found the starter. I traced a large red cable from it to the battery post. The battery also was connected to a red/white cable.

Wow - the boat is already setup with the starter circuit separate from the other house loads. I disconnected the house load cables and turned the switch to on. Nothing worked, no blower, no lights, no radio. I then tried to turn the boat over (not literally - just cranking). It turned. So now I just need to wire the isolator correctly and I will have what I want.

Back to PP: Then I noticed something that I probably never would have seen if it had not been 11:30 at night (VERY DARK!). My perfect pass display was very dimly lit. No LED characters, just a soft green glow. And this with the battery cable supplying power to it removed from the battery. So obviously I have a short somewhere. Which probably explains why the speed display is goofing up. At least I hope.

Fuel gauge: Too tired to work on this. Could be connected to the above issues. If I can fix them first and see.

Back to PP again: Just a note to all future people who have the misfortune to know nothing about electronics and PP is giving them problems. Wires run from the PP master module under the floor to the bilge area where the paddle wheel is located (all this assuming your setup is like mine). There is a plug on the end of the wires from the master module that connects to a plug running from the paddle wheel. When I was inspecting this plug, I must have tugged on it too much. The brown (water temp) wire came right out of the plug running from the master module. These wires are very delicate. I could try to put it back in the plug, but I will probably just direct wire it to the paddle wheel. So check your plug connections if you have display issues, but BE CAREFUL!

BigBarney
09-20-2005, 09:51 AM
I think I am finally on the downside track. I haven't had alot of time lately to piddle with the boat. My company's year end is 9/30, so we are counting inventories each weekend this month.

I did finish wiring my isolator Sunday. Now that it is all CORRECTLY hooked up, it makes perfect working sense. I paid for a local radio shop to wire it 3 years ago when they did some radio work. Best I could tell, all they did was run the amps to the auxillary battery, everything else to the cranking battery, and wired the 2 batteries in parallel. The isolator wasn't even being used in this setup. They did a good job on the radio though - I guess you live and learn. I am now an isolator expert.

Ordered a new paddle wheel unit from the local dealer. I am going to remove the plug connections and hard wire it to the cable leading to the master module. There is just too much moisture in the bilge area for something to corrode. Bought some conductive epoxy to seal the connections. $32.00 for maybe 2 ounces. I am in the wrong business!!! I believe the paddle wheel went bad. This should tell me so. I still think that I have a small short somewhere, but I dread crawling back up under that dash and start pulling wires.

I hope to get her in the water this weekend. I have pulled all the rear panels to determine where I have a leak. I think it is from the stainless steel rubrail that was put on at the beginning of the season.

I do have some good news! Received my Acme prop yesterday. 13.50 x 19.50. I am going to try and install it one day this week so I can try it out as well.

Boy, do I wish that I had spent more time helping my dad when I was younger. He was constantly swapping engines/transmissions in his 'work' cars. But I was too busy playing with my Star Wars action figures. Now it is all catching up. While I have a good understanding how things work on a engine, I am wearing this board and some buddies that I work with out asking questions. I just don't want to get the job done. I want to actually understand what is happening.

Anyways, I hope some of this does help someone in the future. It's a good feeling to be sitting on your boat with a cold one knowing that you just fixed a problem. Even if you're sitting in your driveway :)

stumbledog
09-20-2005, 11:06 AM
I fell your pain brother. I have been fixing little problem with the '93 Prostar 190 I just bought on every trip out so far. I am now trying to solve my own electrical issue. My radio drops out every tim it is turned up past 10. It will come back on and then drop out over and over. The radio shop tells me I have a bad ground. My fuel gage is pegged at full all the time and my volt meter seems to act funny....plenty of volts at the battery, but fully registering on the meter. I am betting everything is tied to bad ground, but I have no clue how to go about isolating the culprit.

I wiil difinitely drink some cold ones when I have this figured out.

88 PS190
10-18-2005, 02:47 PM
every time you see a ground point remove it, clean it put it back... eventually it will be fixed....

BigBarney
10-18-2005, 04:48 PM
Update:

1) I ordered a new paddlewheel assembly and hard-wired it to the PP control box. Now have speed display. Not sure if it was the plugs joining the two or the paddlewheel, just happy it is fixed.

2) I took the fuel meter off the tank. The meter is basically a hollow pipe going with a couple of floats inside. Extended storage must have resulted in the the floats being stuck near the top and giving me the false reading. Will be replaced.

3) The stainless steel rubrail was the leakage culprit. Some of the rubrail flared out and allowed water in the rear when I slowed down and the wake caught up. Used a water hose to pinpoint where.

4) I wouldn't have believed such a minor change in my prop would make the difference that it has. Holeshot is so much stronger now. I also now have more control over acceleration/plaining. I didn't check to see what my top end was, don't really care.