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Flatwaterfooter
01-03-2013, 07:26 PM
I want to confirm i winterized properly. I have to move the boat from indoor heated sstorage to an unheated location. Engine is an MCX i drained block and all hose, blew out the shower and got water out of heater. Once done reattached all hoses and ran 5all gallons of RV antifreeze through till it cameto out exhaust. Should i have any concerns or should i be fine.

Ole Miss Rebels
01-03-2013, 07:30 PM
i have never done it myself but what about your ballast system? don't forget to pull both drain plugs out too so rain-water can drain out of the hull.

Flatwaterfooter
01-03-2013, 07:35 PM
No ballast PS 197 and the storage will still be indoors, but plug is out. Thanks

mikeg205
01-03-2013, 07:43 PM
should be good......

Flatwaterfooter
01-03-2013, 07:53 PM
Thanks one final question any issues with transporting the boat about 40 miles will i loss antifreeze

Double D
01-03-2013, 07:54 PM
Sounds like you did it right. I'm not a boat mechanic but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.... :)


Sent from my wife's old iPad using Tapatalk....

02ProstarSammyD
01-03-2013, 08:02 PM
what'd you do with battery/batteries?

Flatwaterfooter
01-03-2013, 08:06 PM
Removed battery. This is first season with the MCX always dry blocked my LT1 so justthe want toto be sure-

Jerseydave
01-03-2013, 08:11 PM
Sounds good so far.

Fog cylinders thru spark plug holes, crank it over a couple times with lanyard pulled
I usually pour pink RV anti-freeze into the heater core after blowing all the water out.
Spray engine with WD-40

What lake in NH? Lake Winnie?

snork
01-03-2013, 08:13 PM
did you remove knock sensors to drain water from the lowest point of the engine block?

Flatwaterfooter
01-03-2013, 08:13 PM
Did not fog but did spray engine. On Lake Winnisquam

Flatwaterfooter
01-03-2013, 08:19 PM
Yes i did

kyfooter
01-03-2013, 08:31 PM
Songs good overall. I like to run the engine until I'm certain it's up to normal temp to make sure the thermostat opens. I then drain the entire engine block, manifolds, and heater before running the antifreeze through. A 350 block should take just over 3 gallons.

When sucking the antifreeze through, I remove the flame arrester and fog the engine (doing so will want to stall the engine, so keep the RPMs up a bit). I also then remove each plug and fog. Remove the coil wire and crank a few seconds to distribute the fogging oil.

I keep the battery accessible all winter, and charge it for 24 hours or so once/month.

BallBushing
01-03-2013, 09:02 PM
Get that unopened beer can someone left in the port side storage area

GoneBoatN
01-03-2013, 10:45 PM
Removed battery. This is first season with the MCX always dry blocked my LT1 so justthe want toto be sure-

I'm curious why you did not just dry block the MCX?

I have an MCX and dry block it myself for winterizing. I would add that you flip the ignition over a couple of times after draining the block and risers, then proceed to the hoses. Also, I've found that the hoses that run from the thermostat housing to the CATs (mine is a 2010 with CATs) will have a little water in them so they need drained as well as the hose running to the water pump - you said you drained all hoses so you covered that as well. It also helps to shift the engine around a little to get all the water out; do this by either driving around on the trailer up and down some hills (best) or raise and lower the trailer jack a few times. Since you antifreezed after dry block I would think you will be OK. I too will add that I'm not a mechanic and this is just an opinion...

GoneBoatN
01-03-2013, 10:52 PM
Did not fog but did spray engine. On Lake Winnisquam

For me, I do not fog the MCX through the intake. I remove the spark plugs, spay some fogging oil in each cylinder and turn over the engine a few time using a remote starter. Then replace the plugs. I disable the fuel pump and the HVS ignition just to be on the safe side even though I'm using a remote starter.

Flatwaterfooter
01-04-2013, 12:02 AM
I'm curious why you did not just dry block the MCX?

I have an MCX and dry block it myself for winterizing. I would add that you flip the ignition over a couple of times after draining the block and risers, then proceed to the hoses. Also, I've found that the hoses that run from the thermostat housing to the CATs (mine is a 2010 with CATs) will have a little water in them so they need drained as well as the hose running to the water pump - you said you drained all hoses so you covered that as well. It also helps to shift the engine around a little to get all the water out; do this by either driving around on the trailer up and down some hills (best) or raise and lower the trailer jack a few times. Since you antifreezed after dry block I would think you will be OK. I too will add that I'm not a mechanic and this is just an opinion...

Was told to dry block the LT-1 because of the aluminum. Run the run antifreeze in the mcx to help prevent rust. Maybe wrong maybe right just going with what I have read and heard.

east tx skier
01-04-2013, 12:50 PM
For me, I do not fog the MCX through the intake. I remove the spark plugs, spay some fogging oil in each cylinder and turn over the engine a few time using a remote starter. Then replace the plugs. I disable the fuel pump and the HVS ignition just to be on the safe side even though I'm using a remote starter.

This is correct. Do not fog a dry intake like you would a throttle body injected or carbureted engine. Disabling the fuel pump is the way to do it if you don't turn the engine over manually by hand. Otherwise, you're diluting the fogging oil with fuel.

To the OP, hopefully you ran that RV antifreeze at full strength. It is not meant to be diluted.

Flatwaterfooter
01-04-2013, 12:57 PM
yes poured it into a bucket and sucked into the engine did not dilute at all. I was glad to read it should only take about 3-3.5 gallons because I know as I moved the boat it did dump some more out the exhaust.

Thanks for all replys sleeped much better last night.

CantRepeat
01-04-2013, 01:05 PM
I didn't see it but you should have brought the motor up to operating temperature while running it on water and then sucked up the anti freeze.

XStar08
01-04-2013, 03:38 PM
Don't forget to change oil before the boat is set for winter otherwise stuff will set down and fresh oil in spring will get dity by that stuff on the first time you fire up...

Flatwaterfooter
01-04-2013, 03:50 PM
Don't forget to change oil before the boat is set for winter otherwise stuff will set down and fresh oil in spring will get dity by that stuff on the first time you fire up...

Did not do that and will not be able to without firing the engine up again. Moving forward I will do the oil in the fall.

XStar08
01-04-2013, 03:53 PM
Jep, thought it's a little late for my hint. However thought to share that info, as you where saying for next time usage...

GoneBoatN
01-06-2013, 02:36 PM
... Disabling the fuel pump is the way to do it if you don't turn the engine over manually by hand...

I use a remote starter switch attached to the starter. The starter is "hot" with the battery switch on but the ignition is off. Since the ignition is off I think the fuel system and the ignition system would be off. Not being 100% sure I disable those anyways via removing the relay to the fuel pump and the wires to the HVS.

Trying to turn over the engine by hand on a v-drive = No Joy ;)