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Kyle
12-15-2012, 02:29 PM
Here is a thread on how to fix your stiff steering.

Stiff steering could be a bad cable, stale grease in the rudder box, a bad helm, or stale grease in the cable housing.

After gaining access to the steering cable and rudder box, remove the cable from the box and remove the cable from the bracket that holds the cable to the hull.

It should now look like this.

87643

Kyle
12-15-2012, 02:30 PM
Then remove the cable from the bracket like this

87644

Kyle
12-15-2012, 02:33 PM
Taking the cable apart like this will not require re-adjusting of the steering wheel.

Clean the inside of the steering bracket tube. It will be full of old nasty grease.

87646

Kyle
12-15-2012, 02:34 PM
Then clean the cable that goes in the tube real good.

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Kyle
12-15-2012, 02:38 PM
Following that step turn the wheel all of the way to where the cable fully extends.

Clean this part of the cable real nice.

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At my finger the outer cable housing goes over the inner cable.

Run it in and out several times cleaning it good. I soaked the cable in WD40 and ran it all the way from right to left and cleaned it then repeated several times.

87649

Kyle
12-15-2012, 02:43 PM
Cleaning the outer housing was hardest.

I took an oil drain pan and put some gas in it. I ran gas through the tube.

87650

Then take a paper towel and cram it into the tube and find something to ram rod it all of the way through.

I was not willing to use my shotgun cleaning tools so I used a paper towel and a broken golf club.

87651

Now everything is clean and dirt free.

Kyle
12-15-2012, 02:45 PM
Then I took the rudder out of the rudder box.

Fortunately it was clean and no work was required.

Also I'm lucky as my trailer oils not let the rudder come out all of the way. It was dropped down enough to know 100% that it was not dirty. It was real clean.

I re assembled that. No pics sorry

Cloaked
12-15-2012, 02:46 PM
Nice shoes.....

.

Kyle
12-15-2012, 02:47 PM
While doing this project I noticed a hole in the tubing.

This is where a grease fitting used to be. I am headed to find a new fitting now so more info coming after I get back from the store.

Kyle
12-15-2012, 03:04 PM
Nice shoes.....

.

Thank ya sir

thatsmrmastercraft
12-15-2012, 04:32 PM
Nice write-up Kyle. :toast:

tex
12-15-2012, 05:36 PM
Here is a thread on how to fix your stiff steering.

Stiff steering could be a bad cable, stale grease in the rudder box, a bad helm, or stale grease in the cable housing.

After gaining access to the steering cable and rudder box, remove the cable from the box and remove the cable from the bracket that holds the cable to the hull.

It should now look like this.

87643

Can you demonstrate this on Mike O's SN?

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
12-15-2012, 06:03 PM
tsst tsst, snapon screwdrivers are not to be used as pry bars, chisels or punches.:rolleyes:

mikeg205
12-15-2012, 07:20 PM
tsst tsst, snapon screwdrivers are not to be used as pry bars, chisels or punches.:rolleyes:

That's what Harbour Freight is for :uglyhamme:uglyhamme:uglyhamme

SkiDaddy
12-16-2012, 08:45 PM
I think you know, but just in case, remember that the zerk (grease) fitting that goes into the steering cable/tube needs to not have the internal check valve. That is so that extra grease can be released and be expeled via the zerk. Otherwise, your steering can be very, very tight or even locked up. A normal zerk fitting will cause you problems at that location.

Good luck - let us know how the steering feels. You know, before/after, etc.

Kyle
12-17-2012, 02:50 AM
Can you demonstrate this on Mike O's SN?

I take it his boat is real stiff?

Kyle
12-17-2012, 02:53 AM
tsst tsst, snapon screwdrivers are not to be used as pry bars, chisels or punches.:rolleyes:

That's what Harbour Freight is for :uglyhamme:uglyhamme:uglyhamme

LOL

I used it as a punch and pry bar to open up the rudder arm off the rudder. Warranty never asks anyway. Oh well

Kyle
12-17-2012, 03:10 AM
I think you know, but just in case, remember that the zerk (grease) fitting that goes into the steering cable/tube needs to not have the internal check valve. That is so that extra grease can be released and be expeled via the zerk. Otherwise, your steering can be very, very tight or even locked up. A normal zerk fitting will cause you problems at that location.

Good luck - let us know how the steering feels. You know, before/after, etc.


Correct. I found that out after putting everything together it was worse.


The grease fitting can not be a one way valve.

The tiller arm that has the fitting that attaches to the cable must spin. If its too tight things won't work.

The cable bracket that has the ball joint needs to be free enough to rotate.


Everything I did was too tight and the steering would not work.


After trying to figure everything out in my head and how or why it works the way it does and several beers later I have loose steering.


Test drove today and was very impressed. Like it was able to palm steer in turns. It drove like a new boat.


Basically I cleaned every piece of the steering system besides the helm. Before cleaning anything I took the cable off of the rudder and the ball joint bracket loose. Tried to turn the wheel both ways and the cable was real stiff. After hours of cleaning every piece the cable, it would turn flawlessly. Then I re assembled the cable to the rudder and found that it would not turn. Removed it and it worked great. Re installed did not work. Eliminated every moving piece 1at a time until I found the tiller joint was not spinning on the bolt like it was supposed to. Steering got better but was still very hard. Took the grease fitting off completely and baddabing pressure relief and everything worked great.

First time fooling with the steering and honestly I'm glad it was a success.


Key lessons. Don't over tighten parts that are designed to rotate, spin, or have play. Lesson 2 that took an hour or so of time was the grease fitting. Once removing it and it worked I just left it off like the cable was before I started. When greasing from now on I will put it in just to apply grease. That or maybe I'll cut down the fitting so the valve can be removed. This will make it 2 way fitting.


Hope this helps someone in the future.

CantRepeat
12-17-2012, 10:04 AM
Nice how-to on greasing up the old rod, Kyle!! You're gonna need to do one on greasing the rudder box now.

Kyle
12-17-2012, 12:39 PM
Nice how-to on greasing up the old rod, Kyle!! You're gonna need to do one on greasing the rudder box now.

Well the cable generally is the problem and I have 2 friends that have real bad steering. Thread was more designed to assist them. Now it looks like I have a SN friend that has bad steering.


I thought someone else did a how to lube the box

Just thought I would do one on how to grease the rod for the box. :)

Phntmski
12-17-2012, 03:46 PM
I think you know, but just in case, remember that the zerk (grease) fitting that goes into the steering cable/tube needs to not have the internal check valve. That is so that extra grease can be released and be expeled via the zerk. Otherwise, your steering can be very, very tight or even locked up. A normal zerk fitting will cause you problems at that location.

Good luck - let us know how the steering feels. You know, before/after, etc.

:eek:

This is very interesting. Bought my 91 in Jan 04. In the process of giving it the once over before my first season I stumbled across the zerk on the steering cable tube. Saw it was missing the check valve. Looked high and low for a replacement zerk. It's very small, 3mm or something like that. I even called a dealer. Told them which zerk it was and why I wanted to replace it. They never mentioned anything about it being by design. I eventually tapped it out and put another zerk in there with a check valve.

Also changed steering cable and cleaned out that tube. Haven't had any trouble. When I grease it I wipe everything down several times as I move the rudder back and forth slowly to ease excess grease out. My steering is actually very nice but of course now I'll be aware of it and MCOCD will begin to eat the brain. Guess if it comes to it I can pop the bearing out of the valve. :confused:

thatsmrmastercraft
12-17-2012, 04:28 PM
:eek:

This is very interesting. Bought my 91 in Jan 04. In the process of giving it the once over before my first season I stumbled across the zerk on the steering cable tube. Saw it was missing the check valve. Looked high and low for a replacement zerk. It's very small, 3mm or something like that. I even called a dealer. Told them which zerk it was and why I wanted to replace it. They never mentioned anything about it being by design. I eventually tapped it out and put another zerk in there with a check valve.

Also changed steering cable and cleaned out that tube. Haven't had any trouble. When I grease it I wipe everything down several times as I move the rudder back and forth slowly to ease excess grease out. My steering is actually very nice but of course now I'll be aware of it and MCOCD will begin to eat the brain. Guess if it comes to it I can pop the bearing out of the valve. :confused:

I suspect that the check ball is omitted to prevent and pressure from affecting steering effort with either negative or positive feedback. Probably only encounter that when overfilled with grease, but I know what my MCOCD would have me doing.

SWeaver
04-25-2013, 09:47 AM
did anybody ever figure out where to find that steering guide tube zerk? mine is missing too...any issue with not having it there? every hardware zerk protrudes too much into the cable...

any info on thread specs, depth etc. So far i only know it doesnt have the check valve....

Kyle
04-25-2013, 10:06 AM
did anybody ever figure out where to find that steering guide tube zerk? mine is missing too...any issue with not having it there? every hardware zerk protrudes too much into the cable...

any info on thread specs, depth etc. So far i only know it doesnt have the check valve....

It does NOT have a check valve and I run mine without a fitting. I gave up looking for one.

FlyHighorDie
04-25-2013, 11:23 AM
I found a grease zirk that fit the hole size and then ground it down so it did not protrude through the other side into the tube and then I greased the heck out of it. Mine is working great but it is spring and I have been out once. I posted my step to fixing on my X-9
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=53412&page=2