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redraider08
12-10-2012, 01:33 PM
What is the difference between a brass ball valve you get at a department store such as Lowes and a brass ball valve you would find on a Marine Parts website. Below is a link to a couple of lowes valves and a graco valve from wholesalemarine.com. Thanks!

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/pc/GRO-IBV-750/330002/Thru-Hulls%2C+Fittings+%26+Strainers/Groco+In-line+Ball+Valve.html

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=331196-61002-LWS70LF105&catalogId=10051&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=3726488

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=101417-33599-M100+1&catalogId=10051&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=3354588

MattsCraft
12-10-2012, 01:41 PM
No experience here, but the marine version has a Stainless Steel handle, probably why the up-charge, plus it is from a "marine store":rolleyes:

MLA
12-10-2012, 02:53 PM
Marine plumbing is bronze, as opposed to just brass. The bronze is less susceptible to salt water and galvanic corrosion, which is not a huge deal with a fresh water trailer boat. Most of the standard plumbing parts are tapered pipe thread, where as marine plumbing can be found with straight threads.

redraider08
12-10-2012, 03:20 PM
http://www.lowes.com/pd_311481-18701-622F_0__?productId=3402312&Ntt=bronze+ball+valve&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dbronze%2Bball%2Bvalve&facetInfo=

Here is a link to a bronze valve from lowes, would this be a good less expensive alternative? Also, what advantages does the straight threads give?

MLA
12-10-2012, 03:38 PM
Its more about matting like threads. Some marine plumbing fittings are straight threads. Its hard to get a good solid fit between pipe and straight.

redraider08
12-10-2012, 03:59 PM
So if you try to connect the valve from lowes to a thru hull intake you will most likely not get a good fit and could leak. That sounds like a good reason to go with the marine valves, i just wanted to know why i will be paying double before i installed my ballast system. Thanks for the input!

MLA
12-10-2012, 04:26 PM
yes, if your t-hull is straight threads and the b/v is pipe, the t-hull will not thread very deep into the valve.

redraider08
12-17-2012, 12:52 AM
What about threading the tsunami pump into the valve? I looked at the 1200 gpm pump with the 1 inch inlet and the threads were tapered.

FrankSchwab
12-17-2012, 01:01 AM
I've read a lot of Compass Marine's (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/) articles, and he has a bit to say about using inexpensive Brass valves here (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/seacock_primer) (read down a few pages). Of course, he's mostly discussing salt-water cruising, so his opinions may not directly apply to your situation.

MLA
12-17-2012, 10:26 AM
What about threading the tsunami pump into the valve? I looked at the 1200 gpm pump with the 1 inch inlet and the threads were tapered.

The Attwood Tsunami 4663-7 with its 1" NPT is best suited to screw right on top of the ball-valve. If bilge depth is an issue, then use a 90* elbow. This gets the pump vertical, but make sure the pump's outlet is oriented up. Another option is to use a pump like the Rule 1100, which is actually faster in a real world test, and .75" thru-hull and ball-valve. Even though this pump cost more, the price difference between the .75" thru-hull and B/V and the 1" bronze closes the gap. Both the T1200 and the Rule 1100 use a 1.125" outlet, so the same 1" hose can be fitted.