PDA

View Full Version : Need buffer pad suggestions


Hogwild
11-30-2012, 10:32 PM
So I'm going to pick up the Porter Cable 7424xp to do some cosmetic work to my boat in the Spring and was wondering what kind of pads, etc. you would suggest for slight oxidation removal and overall polishing?

Autogeek has a ton of kits offering numerous pads and polishes, but I have no idea where I should start. Would you guys order the polisher bare bones and then just order the pads that I need on the side, or would you pick up one of their combo deals that you see here http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html?gclid=COqvhNuT-LMCFWaoPAod1TEAIw

By the way, they are having a 24 hour sale on gift certificates---$100 gets you a $125 certificate

BrianM
11-30-2012, 10:42 PM
Lake Country pads. Couple of Orange, White and Red will do 98% of what you will ever need to do.

Orange for light compounding and cleaning

White for polish

Red for finishing wax

I use these on my cars and boats with excellent results.

sand2snow22
11-30-2012, 11:04 PM
Get a rotary buffer and use a wool pad. I picked one up on sale at a local auto parts store for $45. I beat it like a dead horse but use this. Notice it will get 1200 grit scratches out. I use 1500 to 2500 to be safe:

http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-mirror-glaze-105-ultra-cut-compound.html

It's an amazing chemical compound. Slow speed to use the compound, press firmly, then as the compound starts to dry speed up a bit and lighten the pressure the more it dries. It turns into a polish, no joke. Wipe residual away with microfiber towel. Pick your best wax to finish.

If you really want to do it right, wet sand the oxidation away with 1500, then follow by wetsanding for awhile with 2500 to get the 1500 scratches out. Then use the compound/polish on the entire boat, then Mequiars tech wax 2.0 paste. Follow instructions on the wax. Apply, let dry, then wipe off with micro-fiber towel. The results will be stunning!

mlawler34
11-30-2012, 11:16 PM
I do the same as Brian above. Worked really well with the 3M 3 step boat polish system. Compound. Finesse. And wax

Hogwild
11-30-2012, 11:28 PM
Lake Country pads. Couple of Orange, White and Red will do 98% of what you will ever need to

Orange for light compounding and cleaning

White for polish

Red for finishing wax

I use these on my cars and boats with excellent results.

Will all the lake country pads fit on the 7424?

Hogwild
11-30-2012, 11:31 PM
Get a rotary buffer and use a wool pad. I picked one up on sale at a local auto parts store for $45. I beat it like a dead horse but use this. Notice it will get 1200 grit scratches out. I use 1500 to 2500 to be safe:

http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-mirror-glaze-105-ultra-cut-compound.html

It's an amazing chemical compound. Slow speed to use the compound, press firmly, then as the compound starts to dry speed up a bit and lighten the pressure the more it dries. It turns into a polish, no joke. Wipe residual away with microfiber towel. Pick your best wax to finish.

If you really want to do it right, wet sand the oxidation away with 1500, then follow by wetsanding for awhile with 2500 to get the 1500 scratches out. Then use the compound/polish on the entire boat, then Mequiars tech wax 2.0 paste. Follow instructions on the wax. Apply, let dry, then wipe off with micro-fiber towel. The results will be stunning!

Not sure I want to get a rotary yet as I have never operated one and am afraid of the damage I might do :D

The mequiars stuff looks like something I might pick up though.

sand2snow22
12-01-2012, 12:39 AM
Not sure I want to get a rotary yet as I have never operated one and am afraid of the damage I might do :D

The mequiars stuff looks like something I might pick up though.

I never had until I bought one...That's the beauty of the compound I mentioned. It's pretty much impossible to cause damage. I taught myself. As long as your not on the highest setting pressing hard on a corner or curve you will be fine.

I like the porter cable for waxing. Yet, I still hand wax, why, I don't know? I should start using it...!

orbeamlb
12-01-2012, 10:09 AM
Ditto on the Meguiars. Bought my first rotary buffer this summer specifically for the boat. Wool pad worked very well. Use light even pressure and keep the buffer moving around. Gelcoat is much tougher than paint when buffing. It worked wonders for my 88 PS200.

orbeamlb
12-01-2012, 10:20 AM
Lake Country pads. Couple of Orange, White and Red will do 98% of what you will ever need to do.

Orange for light compounding and cleaning

White for polish

Red for finishing wax

I use these on my cars and boats with excellent results.

I'll need to order some of these too. Like the rounded edges of the pads.

Hogwild
12-01-2012, 11:34 AM
If I do go the rotary buffer route, which one would you guys recommend? It seems like the porter cable was the clear winner of "the orbital tool to use award" around here.

XtwentyNot
12-01-2012, 12:28 PM
87140

Makita polisher, next to the PC, I call it my grinder!

BrianM
12-03-2012, 12:36 AM
Will all the lake country pads fit on the 7424?



They make different sizes of pads. I think that Porter Cable uses the 6.5".

If I do go the rotary buffer route, which one would you guys recommend? It seems like the porter cable was the clear winner of "the orbital tool to use award" around here.



Go Makita B06040. Has orbital and forced circular modes. Not quite as robust as a professional rotary but does the job. I use the circular mode with a wool pad if I really need to cut with compound but besides that use the orbital. Been a great machine.

mwg
12-04-2012, 11:33 AM
I am no expert on this but I went through the polisher/buffer debate last year. I ended up buying the Porter Cable 7424 polisher and it is very good for compounding & polishing (yes the lake country pads will fit on the PC with the correct backing plate). I used the 3m 3 step process (compound, polish, wax).

It is is difficult to screw up any finish with the PC due to the design; if you apply too much pressure the pad will slow or stop. I mark my pads on top to get a visual on how the pad is rotating.

When it came to waxing & buffing.. I apply the wax by hand and use a variable speed rotating buffer (borrowed from a friend) with a 3M super Buff pad to really bring out the shine. IMO the Porter Cable is not real good at buffing.. I plan on buying a Variable speed buffer this winter.

Good luck

neil.anderson63
12-04-2012, 03:53 PM
Buy one Porter Cable or buy two of another brand. I've had the same Porter for about 18 years. I'm with Brian on his pad choices. Right on target. "I highly suggest picking one up if you have the means."

LaRue
12-04-2012, 04:44 PM
While i have no experience with anything else, I have been using the Porter Cable in conjunction with Adams pads and polishes (Swirl & Haze Remover and Fine Machine Polish) and then Meguiars Flagship Premium Marine wax. Seems to be working for me.

I do see myself trying the Collinite in the future.

jgraham37128
12-04-2012, 05:15 PM
Here's all you'll need to get the job done. Auto Geek is a great place to buy all of them.

petermegan
12-04-2012, 10:03 PM
Here's all you'll need to get the job done. Auto Geek is a great place to buy all of them.

And you can do all that by remote control. I am impressed. :D

jafo9
12-05-2012, 12:02 AM
I went through this debate last year. Initially, I bought the HF polisher. Didn't really like it but it was proof of concept that I didn't have to wet sand. I returned the HF after it died (about a week later) and bought a makita. That thing is a monster. Whatever speed you set it on, it will keep that speed pretty much regardless of the pressure. I ended up going with the Maguires setup for oxidation removal. I bought their 3 stage process of compound/waxes and I bought the different foam pads which Maguires recommended. The foam pads didn't hold up as well as I would have liked, but the final result was great. If you are going with foam pads, make sure and get a cleaner brush. I found that regular cleaning at high speeds helped a lot. I also stored the foam pads in zip lock containers to help keep them from drying out.

Hogwild
12-06-2012, 04:36 PM
Here's all you'll need to get the job done. Auto Geek is a great place to buy all of them.

Are those the waffle pads or the CCS pads and what's the difference?

GoneBoatN
12-06-2012, 07:35 PM
Here's all you'll need to get the job done. Auto Geek is a great place to buy all of them.

And you can do all that by remote control. I am impressed. :D

Actually, he is missing the mini cooler full of beer. :D

russlars
12-13-2012, 02:54 AM
Just pulled the trigger on the Porter Cable 7424 and some Lake Country pads. I plan to go to work on some light oxidation on the transom that is black with white lettering. Is this going to destroy the decals or is there a way to preserve the decals and at the same time remove the oxidation?

XtwentyNot
12-13-2012, 11:22 AM
Decals will be fine. I put liquid dishwasher detergent in a bucket of water to clean compound out of all my buffing pads and power balls. A quick soak and a few dip and ring outs get them clean as new in a matter of minutes.
One thing not mentioned, I put a bonnet on my PC and use it to apply liquid wax as well. Really saves time and elbow grease.
Also, if you have a black car the PC is the only way to go. My makita has never touched my black cars. It leaves too much swirl behind. I get lots of compliments on how shiny and perfect the paint is on my old black suburban. It is in fact far from perfect but definitely a testament to how well the PC works.

russlars
12-13-2012, 12:36 PM
Decals will be fine. I put liquid dishwasher detergent in a bucket of water to clean compound out of all my buffing pads and power balls. A quick soak and a few dip and ring outs get them clean as new in a matter of minutes.
One thing not mentioned, I put a bonnet on my PC and use it to apply liquid wax as well. Really saves time and elbow grease.
Also, if you have a black car the PC is the only way to go. My makita has never touched my black cars. It leaves too much swirl behind. I get lots of compliments on how shiny and perfect the paint is on my old black suburban. It is in fact far from perfect but definitely a testament to how well the PC works.
Could you explain or post a picture of a "bonnet". In addition to my partly black boat I do have a black truck that I intend to use the PC on. Would you mind telling me what products you use on your black vehicle and also your boat. Will the same compounds work for both fiberglass and clearcoat paints?

XtwentyNot
12-13-2012, 09:13 PM
Bonnets: http://www.autogeek.net/temibo.html

I use 3m on the boat. Although I used maguires car products on them for years side by side I like the 3m. Better results in less time and less residue left behind.
87596
I'm out of rubbing compound. Here's a cool product selector, you can see the more aggressive products here as well.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Product/Selector/


Compounds i use for for cars:
87597

Liquid wax :
87598

ZachDaddy
12-14-2012, 12:07 AM
I agree on the Orange County Pads...however I have NOT seen one bottle of elbow grease in any of these photos...

XtwentyNot
12-14-2012, 12:48 AM
I agree on the Orange County Pads...however I have NOT seen one bottle of elbow grease in any of these photos...

I just don't use it too much anymore! But I got some.
87601

russlars
12-14-2012, 01:53 PM
Bonnets: http://www.autogeek.net/temibo.html

I use 3m on the boat. Although I used maguires car products on them for years side by side I like the 3m. Better results in less time and less residue left behind.
87596
I'm out of rubbing compound. Here's a cool product selector, you can see the more aggressive products here as well.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Product/Selector/


Compounds i use for for cars:
87597

Liquid wax :
87598
THANKS! Now it's time to go to work on it.

Hogwild
04-03-2013, 10:05 PM
I posted some progress pics here:

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?p=921837&posted=1#post921837

Thanks again everyone for the advice.

Hogwild
04-04-2013, 09:49 AM
One other thing. Although i havent seen how it will hold up yet i have to say that i love the way the collinite wax went on. I would highly recommend it. I put it in a spray bottle for easy application but the greatest thing was how little u have to use to get a good layer on. Im excited to see how it holds up.

russlars
04-04-2013, 03:37 PM
One other thing. Although i havent seen how it will hold up yet i have to say that i love the way the collinite wax went on. I would highly recommend it. I put it in a spray bottle for easy application but the greatest thing was how little u have to use to get a good layer on. Im excited to see how it holds up.
I have no experience with the liquid wax, but I know you will be impressed with how the paste wax holds up. It is also pretty easy to apply. You wipe it off with a microfiber cloth BEFORE it dries.

holms
04-04-2013, 09:00 PM
check out the new Meguiar's DMCKIT5, comes with correction compound and wax, 4 - foam/microfiber 5" pads...

LaRue
04-04-2013, 10:32 PM
For those of us who apply wax with a machine, do you buff out by hand or use a bonnet?

holms
04-04-2013, 10:41 PM
bonnet or soft foam

SP Maristar
04-04-2013, 10:49 PM
92360here is what i bought and used last summer. I was very pleased with the results.

Larue - i used the polisher to apply Collinite and hand buffed off. Collinite comes off much easier than auto paste wax.

SP Maristar
04-04-2013, 10:50 PM
9236192362better pics of the pads

bturner2
04-05-2013, 09:09 AM
I just use the grey finishing pad and it turns our great every time. I'll also typically go over the panel and edges with a micro fiber cloth to make sure all the wax has been removed and to double check the panel to make sure the results are as expected.

Hogwild
04-05-2013, 12:44 PM
I removed the wax by hand since the collinite came off so easy. Like previous poster said it's definitely not as tough as car wax.

DavidMCX30
04-16-2013, 02:20 PM
OK guys, I need some assistance. I'm a rookie at refinishing boat. I purchased Porter Cable 7424 and have gone with 3M line of products -- boat cleaner, rubbing compound, Finesse-It II, and past wax. I watched video on AutoGeek website to learn how to use tool (still haven't gotten complete hang of it but getting better). I also read a lot of posts on this website about wet sanding...with the goal being to avoid it if not needed.

Boat has moderate amount of oxidization but some pretty good scratches. Silver flake finish with white above and below. I tried using rubbing compound only but wasn't getting results I wanted, especially on scratches. So I did some light wet sanding over entire section with 600, then 1000, then rubbing compound. It looked good on test spot so I moved on, but when I look at certain angles, I am seeing my sanding marks big time, especially on the white sections of the boat. I've done about a quarter of the boat at this point and, while at first glance boat looks new in sections I've done, not pleased with results upon closer inspection.

Looking to some of you experts to help diagnose my problem(s) and help figure out path forward.

-- Do I need to go from 600 to 800 then to 1000? I was going straight from 600 to 1000. Do I need to use 1200 or even 1500 or higher grit...or does the rubbing compound pick up where the 1000 grit leaves off?
-- Am I using too much rubbing compound? I feel like I am using more than what I should. Pad is getting compound caked on it. Just saw something here about a cleaning brush. I ordered one bottle of rubbing compound for 23' boat, but at this rate will need at least two.
-- Do I need to have more patience with process? Will hitting it twice with Finesse-It II and wax hide some of my sanding marks, or do I need to get those completely gone before moving to Finesse-it stage?
-- What is a realistic amount of time that this entire process should take? I don't mind hard, long work, but have a bout 20 hours so far and worried that I am taking far too long without good results.
-- What would it cost to take it to someone else to have it done? : )

Any ideas and suggestions are welcomed! I also plan to call Auto Geek to get their input.

Many thanks!

psychobilly
04-16-2013, 02:58 PM
Man, can't help ya now, but sounds like you didn't need to wet sand... I had heavy oxidation on my ole 20 year old boat and I only did the 3M 3 step process.... It turned out GREAT...

Hopefully someone can come back here and help you out on what to do. Seems like I have seen guys on here wet sand time and time again with these types of results you're talkign about....

BrianM
04-16-2013, 04:48 PM
Wet sanding 600 to 1000 to rubbing compound is fine as long as you are using a heavy cut compound like the 3M Super Duty on a wool pad. If you are using an orbital with the compound you may not be getting enough 'cut' from it.

My guess is you are not sanding out the 600 scratches completely. Make sure you sand in one direction with each grit say up and down with the 600 and side to side with the 1000 that way you can see when you have eliminated the scratches from the prior grit. Keep it really wet and rinse with clean water often.

Using that orbital with the compound I would run it at a little higher speed and you may need to make a few passes to remove all of the 1000 scratches. A circular is really the tool for this job with the compound. You are at lease using a WOOL pad aren't you?

Hitting it more with the Finesse It and wax will show the sanding marks even more. You have to get out the scratches completely from the previous process before moving on.

DavidMCX30
04-16-2013, 06:52 PM
Thanks guys. BrianM -- great suggestions. I used many of your previous posts to get me this far, and appreciate your insights.

I am not using Super Duty, nor a wool pad.

I, too, think I am not getting the 600 scratches out. Like your suggestion on sanding same way to find root problem. But it sounds like I also need to go to wool pad (versus orange foam I am using now). Do you think I need to go to Super Duty as well? Or just take it in a step-wise fashion...better sanding, wool pad, and then if it's not what I want, try Super Duty? Nervous to hit it with a circular given my lack of skill.

Thanks again.

Sodar
04-16-2013, 06:58 PM
If you are not going to step it up to 1500 or even 2000, a 7424 with a foam pad is not going to get the sand marks out. If you are concerned about using a circular with wool and 3M HD Compound, step up the sanding. The finer the paper and the scratches, the easier it will be to get them out.

mcparadise
04-16-2013, 07:33 PM
Wet sanding 600 to 1000 to rubbing compound is fine as long as you are using a heavy cut compound like the 3M Super Duty on a wool pad. If you are using an orbital with the compound you may not be getting enough 'cut' from it.

My guess is you are not sanding out the 600 scratches completely. Make sure you sand in one direction with each grit say up and down with the 600 and side to side with the 1000 that way you can see when you have eliminated the scratches from the prior grit. Keep it really wet and rinse with clean water often.

Using that orbital with the compound I would run it at a little higher speed and you may need to make a few passes to remove all of the 1000 scratches. A circular is really the tool for this job with the compound. You are at lease using a WOOL pad aren't you?

Hitting it more with the Finesse It and wax will show the sanding marks even more. You have to get out the scratches completely from the previous process before moving on.

FWIW, regarding keeping the surface wet while wet sanding, I learned from a marine shop to put a little dish soap in a spray bottle, fill with water, and fine spray all along the way until each rinse. It works well.

psychobilly
04-16-2013, 08:33 PM
Nervous to hit it with a circular given my lack of skill.

Thanks again.

I was nervous too but I stuck to mostly BrianM's suggestions, wool pad, and my circular varible speed DeWalt, 3M heavy cut. I too had never done it but figured I would use his suggestions before going to wet sanding. That was WAY too scarey for me. :-)

Great thread and thank you for posting your results. Some pics would be great too to go along with it. :-) I'm sure you gunna get it SHINNY!!!!

AZDave
04-16-2013, 10:08 PM
I just did my boat with the Porter Cable 7424. I washed all the wax off of the boat. I then used the Meguiars Soft Buff Polishing pad W-8006 with the 3M Finnesse. High speed, keep it wet, do it in sections until it works in. Remove with a microfibre when dry. I then applied a carnuba wax with the Soft Buff Finishing pad W-9006. Removed with a microfibre. My gelcoat was pretty good to begin with. I bought the wool pad that fits the Porter Cable, but it is useless for a random orbital machine, from my experience.

BrianM
04-17-2013, 10:31 AM
If you are not going to step it up to 1500 or even 2000, a 7424 with a foam pad is not going to get the sand marks out. If you are concerned about using a circular with wool and 3M HD Compound, step up the sanding. The finer the paper and the scratches, the easier it will be to get them out.

This! You are never going to get the 1000 scratches out unless you are using a heavy cut compound with wool.

That orange foam with your Porter Cable doesn't have near enough cut.

XtwentyNot
04-17-2013, 11:31 AM
OK guys, I need some assistance. I'm a rookie at refinishing boat. I purchased Porter Cable 7424 and have gone with 3M line of products -- boat cleaner, rubbing compound, Finesse-It II, and past wax. I watched video on AutoGeek website to learn how to use tool (still haven't gotten complete hang of it but getting better). I also read a lot of posts on this website about wet sanding...with the goal being to avoid it if not needed.

Boat has moderate amount of oxidization but some pretty good scratches. Silver flake finish with white above and below. I tried using rubbing compound only but wasn't getting results I wanted, especially on scratches. So I did some light wet sanding over entire section with 600, then 1000, then rubbing compound. It looked good on test spot so I moved on, but when I look at certain angles, I am seeing my sanding marks big time, especially on the white sections of the boat. I've done about a quarter of the boat at this point and, while at first glance boat looks new in sections I've done, not pleased with results upon closer inspection.

Looking to some of you experts to help diagnose my problem(s) and help figure out path forward.

-- Do I need to go from 600 to 800 then to 1000? I was going straight from 600 to 1000. Do I need to use 1200 or even 1500 or higher grit...or does the rubbing compound pick up where the 1000 grit leaves off?
-- Am I using too much rubbing compound? I feel like I am using more than what I should. Pad is getting compound caked on it. Just saw something here about a cleaning brush. I ordered one bottle of rubbing compound for 23' boat, but at this rate will need at least two.
-- Do I need to have more patience with process? Will hitting it twice with Finesse-It II and wax hide some of my sanding marks, or do I need to get those completely gone before moving to Finesse-it stage?
-- What is a realistic amount of time that this entire process should take? I don't mind hard, long work, but have a bout 20 hours so far and worried that I am taking far too long without good results.
-- What would it cost to take it to someone else to have it done? : )

Any ideas and suggestions are welcomed! I also plan to call Auto Geek to get their input.

Many thanks!

X3 for a wool pad, you are cutting hard now so you need a hard cutting pad!
Only 20 hours? If we were paid hourly for doing this we could retire. ----even at a dollar an hour
And way too much compound, I run a single line down the side of the boat right out of the bottle. I work all the material in, then repeat, then repeat, then repeat.
Good news is once you get it back keeping it up is easier. I only spend a day or so a year buffing the boat now, my initial restoration was over 100 hours!

Hogwild
04-17-2013, 10:38 PM
Thanks guys. BrianM -- great suggestions. I used many of your previous posts to get me this far, and appreciate your insights.

I am not using Super Duty, nor a wool pad.

I, too, think I am not getting the 600 scratches out. Like your suggestion on sanding same way to find root problem. But it sounds like I also need to go to wool pad (versus orange foam I am using now). Do you think I need to go to Super Duty as well? Or just take it in a step-wise fashion...better sanding, wool pad, and then if it's not what I want, try Super Duty? Nervous to hit it with a circular given my lack of skill.

Thanks again.

David, I was freaked too at first to use a circular, but like physcobilly said, don't be. I was running the same dewalt he had and I really had to put extreme pressure on the gelcoat to see any real drastic cutting. i was definitely expecting it to come right off with wool pad and circular, but it took several passes and more pressure than i anticipated. I would imagine you could screw up a car's paint pretty easy with a circular, but I'm a firm believer that you have to try really really really hard to screw up gelcoat. FYI, I was using the super duty compound too.

cdh11
04-18-2013, 01:20 PM
What setting should you have the circular polisher on to do the cutting? Some products say 1000-1200 rpm but what speed setting is that roughly?

76S&S
04-26-2013, 09:54 AM
Guys, I need a little help. I need to buff the back of my boat which has faded. Since I've never done this I thought I would practice on the PWC first. If it gets screwed up, it doesn't matter near as much.

So, I went to do a small area on the pwc last night and the compound almost immediatly turns black. So I'm left with a black buffing pad and this black residue on the pwc that can only be removed by using more compound on a clean rag and buffing by hand.

I'm using 3M compound and a foam cutting pad.

HELP!

BrianM
04-26-2013, 11:27 AM
Guys, I need a little help. I need to buff the back of my boat which has faded. Since I've never done this I thought I would practice on the PWC first. If it gets screwed up, it doesn't matter near as much.

So, I went to do a small area on the pwc last night and the compound almost immediatly turns black. So I'm left with a black buffing pad and this black residue on the pwc that can only be removed by using more compound on a clean rag and buffing by hand.

I'm using 3M compound and a foam cutting pad.

HELP!

Sounds like you have some sort of other residue probably oil/gas on the hull. Is it a 2 stroke? Hard to say for sure but I would wash it with simple green then soap and water then hit it with the compound. If it still does it then keep compounding. You have to get all of the contaminates off so you can polish.

76S&S
04-26-2013, 12:52 PM
Thanks Brian, it's a 4 stroke, but something is definately going on. All give it a couple of baths and then try it again.

I appreciate the response, I was at a loss. It looks like rain here most of the weekend, so I'm hoping to do some buffing.

TNstevo
04-30-2013, 11:40 PM
Reading through all these posts, and trying to figureoutif I need to keep buffing with cutting compundor go back to wet sanding. Using a 1200 to. 1500 rpm rotary, and wool pads along with McGuire heavy cutting compund, the highest cut they make, I think it was the105. There was HEAVY oxidation on my green x2 transom. I've done at least 5 to 10 passes with the buffer. It cut almost all the oxidation and is pretty shiny, but had some white haze still. Went to the next step McGuire polish ( think it was the 205), amd at first it appeared to polish real well. However, if you inspect closely, there's still a white sheen. Think I polished two passes. I'm pretty sure I don't need to go on to wax. I'm concerned if I go back to cutting I'll do damage. How man passes is too many? I feel like I'm relatively safe since I never did any wetsanding? I'm assuming it's just taking so many passes, b/c I likely should have wetsanding to start with? What would y'all do next?

BrianM
05-02-2013, 07:34 PM
Gel is pretty darn thick. I would have no hesitation going back and wet sanding then using the compound.

That being said if you see a spec of black while sanding or compounding STOP as this is the base color layer under your gel coat and you have gone through the color.

Dylan
05-03-2013, 12:21 PM
I'm going to further derail this thread, my apologies in advance.

I have a 6" rotary that I've had for years, similar to this one:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00911506000P?vName=Tools&cName=CordedHandheldPowerTools&sName=All%20Corded%20Power%20Toolsmv=rr

I bought some foam pads this year, figuring to try something new. I thought they would slide over like the wool bonnets, but I was mistaken. Does anyone know where I can source the backing plate to connect the foam pad?

Thanks!

zsqure
05-04-2013, 08:11 AM
Check out an auto refinishing supplier. (auto paint store) in your area, Auto geek, properboatcare dot com, check them out. Being Craftsman, they used to do strange things with their stuff to keep you coming back to them for parts and accessories, I had one of those back in the 90's and gave it away cause it did not have enough speed, and it had an odd thread on the spindle I had to make an adapter for it.
HTH.

Footin
01-07-2014, 08:58 PM
I picked up a new buffer the other day from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-variable-speed-polishersander-69474-8790.html

I also bought a wool pad and some Meguiars 49 oxidation Remover for some hazy area on my boat.

THIS WORKED GREAT!!! Follow with Meguiars Cleaner Wax applied with an orbital waxer really cleaned it up.

uplander
01-07-2014, 09:34 PM
Check out Leverage products, they have a compound for removing fading / scum and then a polish that you just wipe on. Super easy to use the polish. I would suggest the wool pad also you can pick them up at any auto parts store.

CC2MC
01-07-2014, 09:43 PM
Guys, I need a little help. I need to buff the back of my boat which has faded. Since I've never done this I thought I would practice on the PWC first. If it gets screwed up, it doesn't matter near as much.

So, I went to do a small area on the pwc last night and the compound almost immediatly turns black. So I'm left with a black buffing pad and this black residue on the pwc that can only be removed by using more compound on a clean rag and buffing by hand.

I'm using 3M compound and a foam cutting pad.

HELP!

Like it was previously mentioned, it probably has some residue on it. If the gel has a heavy coat of wax on it, you may be pulling some of that out along with some dirt. If cleaning it does not do the trick, you can try lightly wet sanding with 2000 grit on a sanding block. Follow up with the wool pad and rubbing compound. My guess is that when you sand just a little that you will sand off a layer of dirt buildup. It should be a pretty easy job as long as you don't have heavy oxidation. I have a buddy with a Malibu that sits on a lift and the transom is faded from the sun. I took some 2000 to get the oxidation out and buffed and that did the trick. Now he wants to do the entire boat.

uplander
01-07-2014, 09:49 PM
I also bought some of this last year, our lake is nasty you always come out with a scum line and no matter how much wax or polish it will not come off. This stuff is fast and easy

http://www.starbrite.com/item/boat-bottom-cleaner-barnacle-zebra-mussel-remover?category_id=566

CC2MC
01-08-2014, 02:24 PM
I also bought some of this last year, our lake is nasty you always come out with a scum line and no matter how much wax or polish it will not come off. This stuff is fast and easy

http://www.starbrite.com/item/boat-bottom-cleaner-barnacle-zebra-mussel-remover?category_id=566

You can also use muriatic acid, used in swimming pools. You just need to wax afterwards and don't let it get on metal or paint. I have the same issue with a scum line. Our lake is actually very clean but I am at the end of the lake in a shallower section that can get pretty stirred up.

JohnE
01-08-2014, 02:44 PM
A lot of people use toilet bowl cleaner (which is basically muriatic acid) to clean the algae.

atihanyi
01-08-2014, 06:07 PM
Been a painter and in the autobody business for 30+ years and I firmly believe in the wool the wool pads for the application of compound . Foam for glazing . Like someone else said here gel-coat is way tougher than paint and hard but not impossible to mess up . Don't be intimidated by a rotary buffer just practice in an out of the way spot first .

uplander
01-08-2014, 07:13 PM
I have used Zing and other products for skum line, but this stuff is so much easier just give a little spray and wipe clean