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View Full Version : 1991 Prostar 190 hull repair


bstewart0529
11-23-2012, 03:52 PM
hey guys and gals. I have just recently bought a 1991 prostar and only taken it out three times. and just yesterday was showing it off during thanksgiving dinner and found this wonderful six inch hole in the bottom. after further investigation it looks like there is some rotting to go along with the hole. Your are going to ask how could you not see this before you bought it? The damaged is right on the part that sits on the skid. So during inspection i never saw it. I will post pictures once I get the boat off the trailer. I feel the best way is to take it off the trailer then cut a hole in the floor board and fix it from the top down. Does anyone have any other ways to go about this? the attached pictures are just to show how good of condition it look like it is in.

ncsone
11-23-2012, 04:29 PM
Sorry, I can't help you with repair suggestions. But, I will say that that has to be the nicest looking '91 190 that I have ever seen on here. And, I don't think I have ever seen one with the solid blue color scheme. Nice boat!

mikeg205
11-23-2012, 04:57 PM
I suggest taking boat off trailer... glass for inside and gel coat from outside, use real epoxy resin, such as

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3760&familyName=WEST+System+105+Epoxy+Resin.

To get boat off trailer is a bit tricky but do able...this thread should help with that... http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=14879&page=2 - here's an MC on styrofoam blocks.

another thread..

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=22930&page=14




please post process of removing boat from trailer.


trickskier and cantrepeat would be able to tell you how to get boat off trailer safely...

bstewart0529
11-23-2012, 07:08 PM
here are two pictures of the damage area. And thanks for the complements. That is a new wrap around the boat, along with new interior and a new engine. Never thought i would be repairing the bottom as well. Good part is I can fix it. It could be worse .

mikeg205
11-23-2012, 07:29 PM
??? puncture - I wonder what from... prop shaft and strut okay? Looks like you can lift lift boat a few inches up and repair and not remove from trailer. Strange damage point. Looks like an external repair only... under floor and foam...might want to take it to a shop... Looks like the vessel was dragged onto something. Where is on the hull - more near transom, middle or bow? looks like it's been there for awhile...rust stains... how long is the damage inches wise..ouch..

bstewart0529
11-23-2012, 07:42 PM
the damage is about six inches by 12 inches long. the bad part is it is right where the boat sits on the carpeted rails. I do agree it looks like it has been there awhile. I just wonder if it came from the end of the rail during loading? I don't know. I am just very nervous about getting it off of the trailer. I also believe i need to cut a hole in the floor to make sure i repair it from the top down. I will have a patch in the carpet but it want be that bad. I will keep you posted on how it goes.

Phntmski
11-23-2012, 07:48 PM
Sorry to see the hull but I bet it's a fairly easy fix and that is one beautiful ProStar!

bstewart0529
11-23-2012, 07:50 PM
thanks again and I think it will be harder getting it on and off the trailing than the actual fixing part. I post more pictures once i get it off.

petermegan
11-23-2012, 09:12 PM
Just an idea, but is it possible to just jack that side up(plenty of support over jack), remove the bunk on that side. Would that give you enough room to work? It just depends whether it lines up with a support for the bunk or not?

bsloop
11-23-2012, 10:12 PM
Am I the only one that thinks this is a pretty nasty gouge?

Given how long its been there, location and different layers of repair necessary, it looks like a job for a professional.
Boat is going to have to be removed from the trailer to do a decent job. I would leave it to a shop that has insurance if something goes wrong.
This is the right time of year to get a deal. Wait a couple more weeks or into early Jan. They will be hungry, looking for work to stay busy and pay the bills.

petermegan
11-23-2012, 10:31 PM
They will be hungry, looking for work to stay busy and pay the bills.[/QUOTE]

You are meaner than my wife. :D:D

Snipe
11-24-2012, 06:05 AM
How can I get rid of this double post?

Snipe
11-24-2012, 09:01 AM
I'm new here; so please bear with me.
I was under the impression that Mastercraft was all composit and no wooden stringers. Where would the rot come from? Also what areas have foam and can that get soaked other than holes in the hull? I just switched from Correct Craft for that very reason. Bought a 1998 Prostar 190 hoping to get as much enjoyment from this boat as well.
I think I'm going to like this site as soon as I learn how to use it.

mikeg205
11-24-2012, 10:26 AM
I'm new here; so please bear with me.
I was under the impression that Mastercraft was all composit and no wooden stringers. Where would the rot come from? Also what areas have foam and can that get soaked other than holes in the hull? I just switched from Correct Craft for that very reason. Bought a 1998 Prostar 190 hoping to get as much enjoyment from this boat as well.
I think I'm going to like this site as soon as I learn how to use it.

not rotting ..big puncture all glass and dirt.

bstewart0529
11-25-2012, 07:26 PM
Today was a good day but also rather stressful. We got it off the trailer. It came off a lot easier than I thought. Although I could not have done it without my brother in law. Jake was a true gift from God. I will post some pictures later tonight. All the bad parts have been cut out and the area is drying. We will start glassing next weekend. Thanks for all the comments.

d2jp
11-25-2012, 07:37 PM
Any idea how the damage happened? Did it occur since you purchased it, or was it there before?

Looks like it took a pretty good hit.....

bstewart0529
11-25-2012, 07:54 PM
It appeared to happen while loading. The two skids weren't covered correctly and they had a sharp edge. So when we loaded the boat with the trailer not far enough in the water then the boat would hit the front of the skid pretty hard causing the damage. So after we fix the whole we will take care of the skids as well.

Latin Flyer
11-25-2012, 08:26 PM
Isn,t that cover by the insurance? Like an accident? I,ve seen stupier things like that cover by insurance.

TNH2oSkier
11-25-2012, 08:50 PM
Have you talked to the previous owner about it? Seems like it should have been disclosed.

bstewart0529
11-25-2012, 09:42 PM
here are some of the pictures from today.

bstewart0529
11-25-2012, 10:09 PM
sorry should have said the skids were covered incorrectly. I will fix them as well before putting her back under the boat.

mikeg205
11-25-2012, 11:22 PM
How did you wind up getting boat off trailer? Nice work so far.

petermegan
11-26-2012, 05:40 AM
Going well!

bstewart0529
11-26-2012, 07:31 AM
It took a while but we would jack up the front of the boat and move the three six by sixes about ten inches at a time. It probably took a total of about two hours. Those 6x6 s are great however they are quite heavy to move while crawling around the axcell on your stomach.

bstewart0529
11-26-2012, 08:30 AM
Wanted to say sorry for some of the spelling mistakes. I was typing on my phone and i don't think auto correct was very friendly to me.

mikeg205
11-26-2012, 08:32 AM
Wanted to say sorry for some of the spelling mistakes. I was typing on my phone and i don't think auto correct was very friendly to me.

you spelt wrong? :D...okay you can make it up to us by photo journaling the repair... :D

CC2MC
11-26-2012, 05:45 PM
Man, I hate that about your hull, but I am glad that it is you and not me. That makes my work that I have in store seem pretty minuscule. I don't have a freakin' hole in mine, just a bad scratch. It really does look like you are doing the right thing in getting to the inside of the hull. I know it is a little more work, but probably the best solution.

See if you can get a weaved mat like a 1708 or perhaps something a little heavier. In addition, add several layers of chop strand mat. The chop mat will more than likely work fine on it's own in that small of an area, but adding a layer of woven mat adds lateral strength. I guess you know you can get the gel coat hull color from MC. More than likely, you will need to gel coat the surface. The other option is to put a paste on the area, which is gel coat with an added filler, being tiny pieces of fiberglass. Spectrum has the color matched version, but for that color, you will have to request the paste. If you are good at spraying gel, you should be able to blend everything pretty well, otherwise you can have the halo around the repair. Given where it is, you may not care.

Anyway, good job so far and keep loading more pictures of the progress.

mikeg205
11-26-2012, 06:06 PM
Peter, can you post a picture of offending part of trailer? I am still not understanding how trailer damaged boat understand how...but I would think more damage would be there from a bad bunk...

TayMC197
11-26-2012, 06:13 PM
Has this happen to mine. It was from the bunks on the lift though. Water level was down and the corner of the bunks poked the hull when I was pulling on to it. It normally floated over it. It was just right and didn't see the damage till It was on the trailer and I happened to be looking under the hull. Had it fixed for about 500 bucks. MCis supposed to warranty the hulls but I didn't feel like messing with it.

DooSPX
11-26-2012, 06:44 PM
Looks like your good with glass work. I say you are on the right track. I would take off the keel guard too, you never know what nice things the previous owner was trying to hide it it.

bstewart0529
11-26-2012, 08:22 PM
Hey thanks for the help and comments. I did find the wider weave pattern, so that will definitely aid in the strength. I also have the smaller weave pattern. As soon as the whole is dry we will get to glassing.

bstewart0529
11-26-2012, 08:39 PM
And keep in mind this happened because the skids were not properly shaped on the end. As well as not backing the boat far enough in the water then loading the boat. At that point the hull was being consistently hit in the same spot causing it weaken then eventually crack. Like I said the good part is that I didn't have to fix the other side.

bstewart0529
11-26-2012, 08:41 PM
I will see if I can come up with some pictures to show what I am trying to discribe.

bstewart0529
11-26-2012, 08:45 PM
This is as close as I could get. I will try and remember to take some pictures as I fix the trailer. Sorry about that

bstewart0529
11-26-2012, 08:46 PM
And just so y'all know I will fix the missing piece of metal on the trailer as well

Snipe
11-27-2012, 07:49 AM
Show us a before and after snap shot of the trailer for a heads up to a "Newbie" such as me.

TayMC197
11-27-2012, 05:05 PM
And keep in mind this happened because the skids were not properly shaped on the end. As well as not backing the boat far enough in the water then loading the boat. At that point the hull was being consistently hit in the same spot causing it weaken then eventually crack. Like I said the good part is that I didn't have to fix the other side.

Exactly what caused mine like I mentioned before... thankfully mine wasn't only hit once I believe...

aquaman
11-27-2012, 05:55 PM
I think alot of guys hit the trailer bunks too hard launching and "driving on" to the trailer.

There can be alot of friction between the hull and the bunks.....especially if your boat is loaded when you launch or load.

Those trailer bunks will "crease" the fiberglass and cause stress fractures every time you launch and return, if the boat is not "floating" on and off the trailer.

JMann
11-27-2012, 06:37 PM
WOW that is scary. I always drive mine on gently but I could see if the bunks aren't in the correct place or aren't shaped correctly even towing it around would be putting stress on one spot regularly. I replaced my bunks a couple years ago, now you guys have me worried I didn't get them in the right spot.
Guess I will be climbing under there tonight to see if there is any stress cracks and make sure the bunks are sitting flat on the hull.

bstewart0529
11-27-2012, 08:55 PM
Was the damage to only one side or both? Mine was to only the passenger side. It will strange if we see this only happening to that side.

bstewart0529
11-30-2012, 11:10 PM
Started working on the trailer today. One step closer to get her put back in the cradle. Hopefully will start fiberglass work this weekend.

petermegan
12-01-2012, 05:19 PM
I need to see the whole trailer, but are your bunks all the way outside on the chassis rails? Is that a Mastercraft trailer? My bunks are some way inside the chassis.

dade61782
12-13-2012, 07:08 PM
Bstewart0529 You in the Charleston area?? Im pretty sure I saw that boat out at Bushy Park early last year.

bstewart0529
12-14-2012, 10:34 AM
yep you probably did.

rjracin240
12-14-2012, 12:19 PM
Started working on the trailer today. One step closer to get her put back in the cradle. Hopefully will start fiberglass work this weekend.

I need to build the framework as pictured in your post for the prop and rudder guard on my trailer since it is completely missing.

SO could you please give me some measurments, would really appreciate it.

Can you place a board across the back of the trailer (placed on the 3" channel) and let me know the distance between the top of the metal cross piece of the prop/rudder guard and the bottom side of the board. Also if you could take a plumb bob and line it up with each bend and give me a distance from the edge where each bend is made, last measurment would be for the length of each bend.

Thanks ahead of time for your help.

bstewart0529
01-03-2013, 04:13 PM
We will get started this weekend. The holiday's had me a little back up. But looking forward to getting her patched up and ready to go.

mikeg205
01-03-2013, 05:57 PM
Great - can't wait to see the repair.... I wonder why 3M uses sells a polyester resin for repair vs. vinyl-ester. I know expoxy is strongest then vinyl...then polyester. MIskier indicated that MC uses Vinyl-ester when building. Please post lot's pic's building my library of methods for my project boat to come. :).. found this video at jamestown distributors... http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=53543&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=product_ad_1441&type=pla

being a nube to repair - does the patch need a backer of some sort to reinforces the repair? I mean - once you fill the whole do make a resin/glass patch larger than the hole to keep make it all strong? My thoughts are what happens to the joint where the new glass/resin meets the old laminated class and resin.

This is so much more interesting than what I do for a living... :)

bstewart0529
01-03-2013, 09:57 PM
I have already put a piece of wax paper on the bottom of the boat. The first step will be to put a peice of the smaller weave fiber and a little resin. Once that is set then I can remove the wax paper and then yes the peices after the hole has been filled then will be larger than the hole. I do have epoxy resin to use on coats that will go on after I get the hole filled in. I will take more pictures don't worry.

bstewart0529
01-05-2013, 04:34 PM
I can now say I no longer have a beautiful boat with a hole in it. These some pictures from today. We will continue next weekend

bstewart0529
01-05-2013, 04:36 PM
Pictures from today

mikeg205
01-05-2013, 05:34 PM
Clean work...how many layers in the plan? What will you be using to replace - the expanding stuff? Like this? http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=308 - or do you have something else in mind.

Well done by the way,

bstewart0529
01-05-2013, 07:53 PM
We have 3 peices of glass in there now and we will have two more layers in the plan. Also we will put a layer or two on the outside as well. After speaking to the folks here that do a great deal of repairs and they said just to use the great stuff because I don't have a very big hole to fill. I will post more pictures later

bstewart0529
01-06-2013, 03:54 PM
He are some more pictures. Looks very good. The edges sealed very well. Next weekend we should have the final coat aplied. Then gel coat the following weekend.

bstewart0529
01-06-2013, 03:56 PM
One more

MIskier
01-06-2013, 04:09 PM
I hope that you are planning on grinding the edges back on the outside before applying the layers to the outside. If you do not you wont get any strength from the patch.

bstewart0529
01-06-2013, 08:22 PM
Oh yes. These were just pictures take to show how well it turned out. But thanks for the advice.

mikeg205
01-06-2013, 11:14 PM
I hope that you are planning on grinding the edges back on the outside before applying the layers to the outside. If you do not you wont get any strength from the patch.

You mean feathering the edges so it's like \______/ (bottom is glass angle lines are gel) - more acute angle right? How much overlap is needed to make a really strong patch? - I'm a nube and and really interested on how to fix something like this even though I don't have too.

MIskier
01-07-2013, 11:17 PM
You mean feathering the edges so it's like \______/ (bottom is glass angle lines are gel) - more acute angle right? How much overlap is needed to make a really strong patch? - I'm a nube and and really interested on how to fix something like this even though I don't have too.

The angle all depends on who you ask, but a 12:1 bevel is ideal. Overlapping the existing gel after scuffing it by 2-3 inches and alternating between chopped strand and woven roving will result in the best repair for this type of situation.

If you're interested in marine composites I can recommend several book and have one on PDF. Feel free to PM me with your contact info and I will send it to you.

The books that I would recommend for a good basic primer: Fiberglass Boat Design and Construction published by the Society of Naval Architects and Marine Engineers.

More advanced topics: Introduction to composite materials

Hexcel Composites and SP High Modulus also have many great resources on their websites.

TRBenj
01-08-2013, 08:48 AM
The angle all depends on who you ask, but a 12:1 bevel is ideal. Overlapping the existing gel after scuffing it by 2-3 inches and alternating between chopped strand and woven roving will result in the best repair for this type of situation.
That doesnt sound like the "best" advice to me. Agree on the 12:1 taper, but I would NOT suggest that its ok to lay new glass over the existing gel. Gel has no strength and should be ground off entirely in the damaged area, and new glass should only be laid over old glass. I also do not care for woven roving in a repair... its better used for initial layups where a quick buildup is required. A higher number of thinner layers will make for a stronger patch. I'd make my patch with more layers of cloth than anything else, and a few layers of chopped strand (mat) in there as well. Shoot for matching the original thickness, or going a touch thicker. The mat will help build it quickly and give strength in all directions. Each successive layer should be slightly larger than the one under it. Make sure you get the air bubbles out of the layup... a grooved roller helps a lot.

mikeg205
01-08-2013, 09:08 AM
Here's a great video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsoKAHU5xUw late to the thread but I believe points to MI's 12:1 ratio bevel. It has a cool solution to do the gel coat repair as well.

bstewart0529
01-10-2013, 09:08 PM
This is the strong stuff.

CC2MC
01-10-2013, 11:40 PM
The angle all depends on who you ask, but a 12:1 bevel is ideal. Overlapping the existing gel after scuffing it by 2-3 inches and alternating between chopped strand and woven roving will result in the best repair for this type of situation.

If you're interested in marine composites I can recommend several book and have one on PDF. Feel free to PM me with your contact info and I will send it to you.

The books that I would recommend for a good basic primer: Fiberglass Boat Design and Construction published by the Society of Naval Architects and Marine Engineers.

More advanced topics: Introduction to composite materials

Hexcel Composites and SP High Modulus also have many great resources on their websites.

Great books! You are correct in rotating between chop and woven, which is why I suggested using something like a 1708 or 3610, which has both in one mat.

The repair is looking great so far! The gel will be pretty tricky to avoid having a halo. I will be interested to see how well it turns out. Where did you end up getting the gel from?

bstewart0529
01-11-2013, 08:20 AM
A really good friend of mine gave it to me. The only thing is if we use this on the bottom of the boat, it is harder than concrete, so it will be next to impossible to sand smooth. I was going to use the normal Poly resin on the outside and this on the inside. Also I will have to put the gel coat over the final patch as well. So I am going to want this as smooth as possible. Any thoughts.

bstewart0529
01-11-2013, 12:31 PM
Hopefully this weekend we will have all the glass work done and next weekend we will start putting it back together.

Kyle
01-11-2013, 01:25 PM
I sure do like the color of your boat

thatsmrmastercraft
01-11-2013, 01:58 PM
It is nice, isn't it?

bstewart0529
01-11-2013, 02:06 PM
Thank you.

TRBenj
01-11-2013, 03:06 PM
Epoxy resin isnt "harder than concrete", though it doesnt sand especially quickly. Neither does poly, though. An angle grinder with a suitable attachment (like a flap disc) will make quick work of major high spots. A random orbital or palm sander can do the rest.

If you use the epoxy for the repair (as I would) then be sure to use a conversion coat (like vinylester) prior to laying gel, as it wont adhere as well directly to the epoxy. Im not sure you would want to do the repair in poly though... unless MC builds their hulls with it. I thought they used vinyl, but ICBW.

bstewart0529
01-11-2013, 03:38 PM
I like your idea better. Thanks again for the help.

mikeg205
01-11-2013, 06:54 PM
Epoxy resin isnt "harder than concrete", though it doesnt sand especially quickly. Neither does poly, though. An angle grinder with a suitable attachment (like a flap disc) will make quick work of major high spots. A random orbital or palm sander can do the rest.

If you use the epoxy for the repair (as I would) then be sure to use a conversion coat (like vinylester) prior to laying gel, as it wont adhere as well directly to the epoxy. Im not sure you would want to do the repair in poly though... unless MC builds their hulls with it. I thought they used vinyl, but ICBW.

MIskier was an intern there and he cited vinyl ester as the resin...

bstewart0529
01-12-2013, 09:10 AM
Why doesn't the epoxy stick well to the poly?

MIskier
01-12-2013, 11:17 AM
MIskier was an intern there and he cited vinyl ester as the resin...

In the older boats it was vinyl ester, now they use AME 5000 which is a blend between vinyl and epoxy

TRBenj
01-14-2013, 01:24 PM
Why doesn't the epoxy stick well to the poly?
Epoxy will stick just fine to the poly... it sticks well to all types of glass, and is the strongest. The opposite is NOT true- meaning that poly will not stick to epoxy. It needs a conversion coat (like vinylester) first. This comes into play when doing a hull repair with epoxy, and then following with a gel repair (since gel is a tinted poly).

It would be helpful to know when MC made the change from poly to vinyl and when they went from vinyl to vinyl-epoxy. I know CC transitioned in '89 and '93. I would only consider a poly repair on a poly hull (though even then I would opt for epoxy for its strength and workability advantages). On a vinyl or vinyl-epoxy hull, I would not consider poly as an option.

bstewart0529
01-14-2013, 04:07 PM
i used the epoxy yesterday. man is that stuff nice. I will let you know how the sanding goes later in the week. I feel i am done with filling the hole. we have five layers on the top and three layers on the bottom so we should not have any issues with the strength. Now we will start putting the hole back together and then start working with the gel coat. I will post more pictures once i get closer to getting it done. thanks again for the help.

bstewart0529
01-19-2013, 02:00 PM
Here are some pictures of the work we did today. The hole is now filled and fixed. We will put one more layer of epoxy on the outside then start the gel coat.

bstewart0529
01-19-2013, 02:03 PM
Hole filled

bstewart0529
01-19-2013, 02:05 PM
Bottom of the boat

bstewart0529
01-20-2013, 07:53 PM
The hole is officially filled.

bstewart0529
01-30-2013, 09:43 AM
I hated that i didn't pull the carpet back but i will recarpet it next year once i put it away for the winter. For now we will just have to make do with the square in the carpet. As for the bottom the gel coat goes on this weekend. and then we start sanding and buffing.

TRBenj
01-30-2013, 12:39 PM
Any shots of the inside of the hull (not floor)?

bstewart0529
01-31-2013, 08:48 AM
Here is one of what it looked like once we cut the bad part out. Is this what you wanted?

TRBenj
01-31-2013, 10:33 AM
I was mostly curious about how the repair looked from the business side (inside) of the hull.

bstewart0529
01-31-2013, 12:54 PM
We will start the gel coat process this weekend I should have some next week. I am excited to see how it turns out. shouldn't be able to see anything once we are done.

bstewart0529
01-31-2013, 12:58 PM
here is another one.

bstewart0529
01-31-2013, 12:59 PM
beginning point

bstewart0529
02-03-2013, 01:01 PM
First coat of gel coat. We have some blending to do.

mikeg205
02-03-2013, 02:12 PM
Nice work....

snork
02-03-2013, 04:12 PM
Smooooth

bstewart0529
02-03-2013, 08:01 PM
Wet sanding is no fun.

bstewart0529
02-03-2013, 08:05 PM
Man this is tough. But it is worth it.

bstewart0529
02-11-2013, 08:03 PM
We have finished the hard work and now all that is left is waxing and polishing the bottom. We should be putting her back on the trailer in about two weeks.

Snipe
02-12-2013, 07:37 AM
Nice looking job. Things like this always look better when you can say, "It's History!!"
Enjoy it now.:):)

mikeg205
02-12-2013, 08:00 AM
woo - hoo - I like it when its history....

bstewart0529
02-13-2013, 09:20 AM
Here are some pictures of the finished project. We couldn't quite match the color, however if you get under the boat and notice it I will simply say you are right.

Snipe
02-13-2013, 09:56 AM
Color looks fine to me. How many folks crawl under a boat to see if there is a color mismatch. I think you did an excellent job. Congrats on a job well done.

mikeg205
02-13-2013, 10:03 AM
Looks great....If someone is under the boat looking for color match while out on the water...they can swim back to dock - toss 'em a pfd and say see ya... no more enjoyment on my boat....

It's like woodworking... can't be perfect... my old adage - if they are looking that close... do the 3 stooges thing and poke them in the eyes...gently of course... ;)

Kyle
02-13-2013, 10:17 AM
Great work.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-13-2013, 10:20 AM
That turned out fantastic!

maxpower220
02-13-2013, 10:44 AM
Odds are that a little bit of lake water will discolor it enough to match in a few days.

Nice result.

College Kid
02-13-2013, 11:38 AM
Looks great, Totally agree with maxpower, a couple days on the lake and you'll never notice.

mikeg205
02-13-2013, 11:50 AM
What brand of Gelcoat did you use...did miss that post? I see the epoxy.. and fiberglass.

great job again...

bstewart0529
02-13-2013, 12:57 PM
I believe it was the West Marine brand.

bstewart0529
03-03-2013, 03:26 PM
man let me tell you i have never been so happy to see this boat back on the trailer in my life. There were some scary moments durning the process but all in all it went pretty well.. Thanks to everyone and their support.

Ski-me
03-03-2013, 03:32 PM
Been there definitely! I hated the feeling of the boat on blocks of wood and jack stands. Freaked me out every time I went out into the garage, too!

Looks great though!

SkiDog
03-03-2013, 03:51 PM
Color looks fine to me. How many folks crawl under a boat to see if there is a color mismatch. I think you did an excellent job. Congrats on a job well done.

Well, I know of a few idiots that would!

TOO-TALL
03-03-2013, 05:28 PM
Very nice.Good work.

How did you fix the bunks?

bstewart0529
03-03-2013, 06:10 PM
we put new skids on it. we used 2x6s this time. to hopefully give it some more surface area to sit on. Also we found the culprit, it was a bolt on the skid that wasn't counter sunk. also it wasn't a regular bolt and not a round headed one.

another interesting thing i found was the boat doesn't sit on the entire skid. It only sits on about 3 feet of 11 foot skid. I need to take a picture of bad bolt and show everyone.

mikeg205
03-03-2013, 06:55 PM
woo hoo.... time to celebrate... :)

thatsmrmastercraft
03-03-2013, 10:59 PM
we put new skids on it. we used 2x6s this time. to hopefully give it some more surface area to sit on. Also we found the culprit, it was a bolt on the skid that wasn't counter sunk. also it wasn't a regular bolt and not a round headed one.

another interesting thing i found was the boat doesn't sit on the entire skid. It only sits on about 3 feet of 11 foot skid. I need to take a picture of bad bolt and show everyone.

Sounds like it's time to do some adjusting.