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2skinny MC
09-07-2005, 09:37 PM
The problem seems to be when I've ran the boat for a hour and then shut it off, it won't start. Most of the time I can place a screw driver between the concetions on the resister, and it will refire. Just replaced the resister, rotor, dis-cap, plugs, wires. Help?

André
09-07-2005, 09:43 PM
Sorry can't help but you did came to the right place for infos !
Welcome to the board!
Another hoosier !

Hoosier Bob
09-07-2005, 10:04 PM
I had an old CC that had moisture in the distributer. After an hour it would begin to condensate on the cap and the boat would not restart. The condensation was visable inside the cap. After a quick wipedown the boat would restart and run for awhile more. I used compressed air to clear it out but as I remember it took a couple treatments.

BriEOD
09-07-2005, 10:30 PM
Get rid of that mess and get electronic ignition 99$ and 30 minutes to install.

2skinny MC
09-07-2005, 10:33 PM
Thanks Bob, I'll check that the next time I'm out.

peason
09-07-2005, 10:37 PM
Ditto on the electronic ignition - call SkiDim and order one - and if your not sure of the install they will talk you through it.

2skinny MC
09-07-2005, 11:05 PM
hate to sound like an idot, who is SkiDim and what is there # ?

Leroy
09-07-2005, 11:45 PM
http://www.skidim.com/ (http://www.skidim.com/) Great boat/ski support with people you can call and they know what they are talking about! Info on the site.

ktn_cmu
09-08-2005, 12:08 PM
If you're talking about putting a screw driver between the connections on the ballast resistor sounds to me like you need the jumper wire. The jumper wire hooks to the coil side of your ballast resistor and to the "I" terminal on your starter solenoid. The "I" terminal on your solenoid has full battery voltage only when the key is in the start position. So, if you have the jumper wire in place properly, you'll have full battery voltage at the coil side of your resistor when you have the key in the start position. Same as when you use the screw driver, but in the way the manufacturer meant for it to happen.

However, you should consider electronic ignition...its worth it. Though, you are still supposed to have the jumper wire with the electronic setup too.

Kyle

ktn_cmu
09-08-2005, 12:24 PM
I drew Picture of the setup...but it seems to be too large...is there a way to reduce the size (in bytes, not pixels) so I can post it here?

east tx skier
09-08-2005, 01:07 PM
Does it turn over?

2skinny MC
09-08-2005, 10:44 PM
the boat runs great when the engine is cold, the problem seems to start when i've ran the boat for a hour or so and turn it off. it wont always restart. if I wait for an hour it will fire right up. When it runs, it runs great.

Cloaked
09-08-2005, 11:42 PM
I drew Picture of the setup...but it seems to be too large...is there a way to reduce the size (in bytes, not pixels) so I can post it here?Open the pic and save it in a more compressed format such as "jpg".

And the electronic ignition is the way to go. :steering:

Cloaked
09-08-2005, 11:45 PM
the boat runs great when the engine is cold, the problem seems to start when i've ran the boat for a hour or so and turn it off. it wont always restart. if I wait for an hour it will fire right up. When it runs, it runs great.What carb do you have on it? Holley, probably but what model of Holley? The 4010 (correct I hope but close nonetheless) gave this characteristic of the same problem, whereas the 4160 model was an improvement to eliminate the similar sounding issue.

PointTaken
09-13-2005, 02:41 PM
the boat runs great when the engine is cold, the problem seems to start when i've ran the boat for a hour or so and turn it off. it wont always restart. if I wait for an hour it will fire right up. When it runs, it runs great.
Had a buddy with an '85 with the same problem. His turned out to be a vapor lock in the fuel line. His line ran too close to the engine and would cause problems after it heated up and was turned off. After the engine cooled down the lock went away, and would fire right up.