View Full Version : Water Intake leaking

lakeoz tristar
11-04-2012, 09:45 PM

1989 Tristar had spent most of the summer working on getting this boat running. Once I got it running I had noticed that the boat had lots of water coming in the boat. I did notice and fix a leaking exhaust but today I noticed that the area around the water intake and along the I guess you could say seam that has caulk that looks pretty bad shape was leaking appeared to have water coming in.
1) can this be repaired by removing caulk and replacing with the 3m 5200 caulk or is it more serious than that?
2) around the water intake there seems to be some sort of rubber around the intake area that you can see in the picture, can this be easily repaired also?

I do not think this is where the majority of the water is coming from however. I know when I run the boat while at the dock I can rev the motor all day long and it doesnt seem to take on any water, its only when I go down the lake that I notice water comes in (when the back swim deck is under water) and it is a fair amount of water.. Is it possible that the area beneath the rub rail has some sort of leaking area to seal during the winter? Or any other areas to look at during the winter.

Thanks for any advice I know someone must have had similar problems.

11-04-2012, 10:02 PM
I just got done fixing this on my boat. I wasn't experiencing water leaking. Just noticed that the fit was a little lose when I pulled my raw water hose off for winterizing. I used some black silicone rtv. Did the same with my exhaust flanges coming thru the hull, back this spring. Where I noticed the oem silicone had dried out and allowed some leaking.

Cleaned up the bulk head fitting.

Put a nice bead of rtv on the inside and out then re-sandwiched the bulk head thru the hull.


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11-04-2012, 11:18 PM
Thanks for the pics... I check my '95 now every spring...that sealant can only last so long... :D

11-06-2012, 05:02 PM
Having just put a run-aground 19 skier back on the water last month, looking for leaks is fresh on my mind. What I would do is remove all access covers, etc, so you can see all the likely areas for water intrusion, and then take the boat out with an assistant/co-driver so you have a chance to view the areas while at speed. I mean it could be leaking mufflers, leaking exhaust hose, leaking shaft seal, leaks around the shaft log, etc. It should be obvious though. Your helper is key -- have him/her drive while you look for the leak, or vice versa lol.

On mine we had to do some glass repair around the shaft log area -- my guess is that it flexed it when the boat was run aground (before I purchased it) and opened up some small cracks.
Of course the prop strike damage on the bottom of the hull had to be repaired too, but that was not the source of the leakage.

If your rub rail is where mine is, I think it would be unlikely as a source for your leak -- too high up on the hull, and not exposed to enough water during normal running.

lakeoz tristar
11-06-2012, 09:40 PM
I do have the floor right behind the dog house off and have taken the ride to see that it is not the exhaust coming from the manifolds or the shaft leaking. It seems to be coming from further back. Either the exhaust where it exits the boat or somewhere else will try to take as much off and go for another ride hope to find out where it is coming from before I have to take it out of the water.. thanks for all the advice..I know there is some coming in from the seal that is broken in the pictures but I dont think that is where the majority of the water is coming from..

11-06-2012, 11:34 PM
The exhaust flanges can get old and go bad and cause leaks, as well as the hoses leading to the flanges.


11-07-2012, 01:03 PM
The rudder Can leak a bit also. Mine leaked through the rub rail. And the strut bolts ,tracking fins where lose and falling off and leaking Also.

lakeoz tristar
11-12-2012, 10:45 PM
I took the boat out this weekend took out all parts I could to locate the leaks.. And I found that the exhaust flange screws were dripping a little bot of water, probably moved it a little bit putting the exhaust back in after re-glassing them. I also found that the majority of the water was coming from the speedo cables where they exit the boat.. Looks like after I fix both of those it should be water tight next season..Glad it wasn't nothing more serious.

11-13-2012, 05:24 AM
> I also found that the majority of the water was coming from the speedo cables where they exit the boat

For folks that go to a GPS speedo, is it common to just patch this hole up? or maybe repurpose to move depth transducer from inside bilge to outside hull?

11-14-2012, 11:38 PM
When I installed perfect pass this summer I left the speedo pick ups alone. Kept it oem looking plus I didn't want to see a bunch of empty screw holes

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11-15-2012, 01:39 AM
Have you ever seen this video?

http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNDLPeEf1uw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNDLPeEf1uw)

Sounds like you have it fixed, but after watching this, it seems very possible to get lots of water from the rub rail when motoring along just below planing speed.

11-15-2012, 08:15 AM
Have you ever seen this video?

http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNDLPeEf1uw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNDLPeEf1uw)

Sounds like you have it fixed, but after watching this, it seems very possible to get lots of water from the rub rail when motoring along just below planing speed.

You would think that would be covered under sometype of lifetime hull warranty!

11-15-2012, 08:44 AM
That's my buddies Maristar...been fixed...glass/resin + rub rail... all fixed.... but not a warranty repair.. There's a lifetime warranty on the hull and deck?

lakeoz tristar
11-15-2012, 04:13 PM
thats exactly what i was afraid mine was doing because the back deck sits at or below the water line when underway..But luckily its just the speedo cables opening and hopefully a little clean up and sealer will do the trick..

07-02-2013, 10:01 AM
how would you fix the leaky rub rail - is that just calking or is that a major repair?

07-02-2013, 10:09 AM
I fixed mine in 2010. I removed the rub rail and insert. drilled out the deck fasteners...most were loose. On my 95 they used rivets. I put 3m 5200 adhesive in all the holes and put all new rivets in. Waited a week and then re-installed the rub rail and insert. The I ran a beat of the 5200 along the deck hull union. All in all took me about 4 hours of real work. Longest part of job was drilling out old rivets - cuz they wanted to spin when I drilled and re-installing the rub rail. Re-installation of rub rail is not hard - took about an hour.

07-02-2013, 06:48 PM
Amazing to see how much water can come in underway. Thats why we have a grand canyon. WATER ALWAYS WINS. GREAT REPAIR THANKS FOR THE PICS.