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View Full Version : As Promised, My Engine Flush (etc) Install


deminimis
11-03-2012, 04:22 PM
This isn't particular to the engine or winterization threads, so placed it here. As discussed in another thread, I wanted an engine flush that wasn't plastic and prone, or susceptible to breaking. Decided to go with a Groco flush kit as it is bronze. Also, if located low enough in your bilge area, it can double as an emergency bilge pump, using your engine as the pump. So here's the quick and dirty:

2004 X-Star
Factory raw water intake hose is 1 1/4"
Factory scoop strainer is only 7/8"-1" (What???) and barbed on end for hose.

Parts:
Groco 1 1/4" flush kit w/ garden hose adapter
Groco 1 1/4" threaded scoop strainer
1 1/4" 90 degree street elbow (male and female ends).
Conbraco (Apollo) 1 1/4" marine valve
3M 5200 (overkill)

What to do:
Remove intake hose from factory scoop strainer (thru-hull).
Remove nut from scoop strainer. Remove screws (if any) from underneath of scoop strainer.
Carefully heat scoop strainer with heat gun to soften sealant.
Remove scoop strainer from hull.
Use whatever tool to open up the thru-hull hole to accommodate a 1 1/4" scoop strainer (I used a die grinder with a cylindrical rasp). -Wear gloves, mask, eye protection..or not (I ain't your mommy).
Once your new scoop strainer fits through the hull, mark and drill for screws to hold it in place (really only needs two to keep it from spinning when tightening the locking nut in the bilge area).
Put the right amount of 5200 or whatever you choose on the mating surface and up the threads to the approx thickness of your hull.
Install and tighten screws (Carefully use a rubber mallet to seat it up to the hull if needed).
Seal the nut seating area (I assume you cleaned all old sealant long before you got to this step) and bottom area where threads meet up with the hull.
Tighten nut as tight as you think it needs. Check below to see that a little sealant has squished out along the intake edge of the scoop strainer and the strainer is seated nicely against your hull. Now you can wait for that to cure or not (5200 takes 7 days to cure, so I continued on)

I used Rector Seal 5 for all threads as more reliable than teflon tape.

Install elbow.
Remove handle from valve. Install valve. Install handle as you make the last turn and close valve (handle out at 90 degrees so when you stop rotating valve, you know you have the needed clearance to close the valve).
Install Groco flush unit.
Cut and install intake hose (only needs one hose clamp now as it properly fits the barded end of the Groco unit.

Done and done.

https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/9086/10h/origin-d4.scene7.com/is/image/GanderMountainOvertons/82976_L1?$product$

http://www.apollovalves.com/_products/70-100-10/LRP_70_100_10.jpg

http://www.defender.com/images/301294.jpg

Ta Da!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8F30g9jZjyM/UJVnLlQMjdI/AAAAAAAAChY/GR2J7517BZY/s640/IMG_20121103_113632.jpg

Okay, I used a bit too much 5200 on the nut seating area, but oh well.

Here's the hose adapter. Just a quater turn or so and its in. Very sano.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-22SEv4THBB4/UJVnQN-HzuI/AAAAAAAAChg/os5zva6vivY/s640/IMG_20121103_114336.jpg

JDC
11-03-2012, 04:29 PM
Nice work! ... and nice write up.

Wear gloves, mask, eye protection..or not (I ain't your mommy).
Made me laugh. :D

CantRepeat
11-03-2012, 07:11 PM
This isn't particular to the engine or winterization threads,



Might I suggest the "genereal maintenance" forum? :D

sp00ky
11-04-2012, 10:20 AM
Good write up! Kinda funny ...I read rectal seal at first not Rector seal..my wife and I have a 13-year old boy level sense of humor so we got a good laugh.

sp00ky
11-04-2012, 10:22 AM
You weren't able to use the existing threaded scoop strainer? mine has threads with just a hose on it currently.

deminimis
11-05-2012, 05:40 PM
You weren't able to use the existing threaded scoop strainer? mine has threads with just a hose on it currently.

Yea, the factory one was only partially threaded for the locking nut only. The rest was barbed for a hose. There was not nearly enough thread left (if I would have tried cutting the barbed end off) to mount the elbow. This one is much more stout and, obviously, has greater flow (not that flow was ever a problem).

deminimis
11-05-2012, 05:47 PM
Oh, fabbed up a quickie little hose hose fitting to blow some of the water out of the system.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5mfa8J57fr8/UJavmgwZO8I/AAAAAAAACh0/FQKb9p0gd0U/s912/IMG_20121104_100928.jpg

However, not sure how effective it is at this point. I suppose if the engine is cold, then it may only blow out the manifolds and heater. If done with a warm engine (with the thermostat open), perhaps it will get the lion's share of the water out of the system. I just don't know. I do know it required disconnecting the manifold cross over hoses to get the water out of there, so my little air dealio may not be that effective as the air will take the path of least resistance and that path seems to be right out the exhaust ports.

mcparadise
11-05-2012, 06:12 PM
Ball valve open and GRCO seal in place is one more thing to always check before splashing ;-)

deminimis
07-12-2013, 05:23 PM
Well, some dumba** forgot to install the rear plug in the boat the other day. I mean I purposefully did not install the rear drain plug in my boat because it allowed me the opportunity to discover my rear bilge pump was not working. So not to overtax the other pump (after a frantic dive into the river with plug in hand), I closed the water intake valve, pulled the plug on the flush unit and used the engine to pump out the bilge. Worked great.

As a side note: Check those waterproof connections for your bilge pumps (or really any connection in the bilge area). Water got into mine and corroded the hot wire connection to the point that the pin was rotted (that's why the pump wasn't working).

hurricunning
05-31-2014, 12:33 PM
Any problems with the Groco Flush Kit? I am considering doing this exact installation and just curious about your satisfaction with the Groco unit so far. No accidental releases of the plug, haven't lost your hose adapter, no overheating while running on hose water, etc? Great instal write up btw! Cheers.

deminimis
06-01-2014, 12:08 AM
Works great. Very happy I did it.

Jeff d
06-01-2014, 08:12 AM
Oh, fabbed up a quickie little hose hose fitting to blow some of the water out of the system.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5mfa8J57fr8/UJavmgwZO8I/AAAAAAAACh0/FQKb9p0gd0U/s912/IMG_20121104_100928.jpg


I'm not 100% sure but I don't think that will work at all unless you remove the impeller and the put the cover back on with a good seal. The air just won't be able to push through the raw water pump with the impeller in there unless you run very high pressure which will likely damage something. Even then you may have the problem of the air just bubbling through the water and taking the path of least resistance as you mentioned.

Edit: just realized this was a very old thread brought back from the dead. I'm sure the OP has had plenty of time to figure out if this worked or not.

deminimis
06-02-2014, 12:50 PM
Yea no, the air blow out experiment was for naught. There's just no getting around pulling plugs and blowing out lines the old fashioned way.