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View Full Version : Direct Drive vs. I/O Trailer


College Kid
11-02-2012, 10:50 AM
Need a little advice.

I purchased my boat last year 92 prostar 190, It came on a smaller galvanized I/O trailer. I want to know peoples options on the differences between the I/O and a Direct Drive Trailer?

Does it make a difference? Is the only real difference protection fro the prop and rudder?

Although my current trailer is rated for 2200lbs, I feel it is a bit small for the boat. I have tried to find a Mastercraft trailer to refurb but havn't come up with anything locally, or not for that matter. I have the option to move up to a 3100lbs I/O model for minimal cost, but should bother if I really should be looking for a direct drive trailer?

What are you your thoughts?

BriEOD
11-02-2012, 10:56 AM
Yes, the main difference is the prop guard built into the trailer. Without it, you are extremely vulnerable to damaging your prop, shaft, strut, transmission, and rudder, depending on how hard you hit something. Do yourself a favor, get a trailer with a prop guard.

starman205
11-02-2012, 11:49 AM
I would also be concerned about weight distribution. I f you look at the placement of the axle and tires of a inboard trailer they are typically farther forward right underneath the engine. On a I/O trailer the axle and tire location are farther back again to put them right under the I/O engine. (My 2cents worth)

swb911
11-02-2012, 11:56 AM
True that the newer inboard trailers have guards, but my trailer on my 86 does not. It would not be difficult for a metal fab person to make a guard for the prop/shaft/rudder for little expense. Otherwise, it's just a trailer to get your boat to the water. I guess it depends on how much you trailer. Mine only lives on the trailer in the winter

GoneBoatN
11-02-2012, 12:00 PM
Also be careful that the trailer will adaquately support the boat. Trailers are designed to each boat such that the bunk boards are in the proper position. So you will most likely have to modify it for your boat. A lot of the online trailer parts stores have hardware that you can use to mount bunks to your trailer frame. You could also try to find a local shop that would weld them on. You can always have a "prop guard" welded on.

Looking at the manual for your 190 it says the weight is 2450 lbs so 2200 is a bit shy. Also the weight listed is typically "dry weight" so by the time you have fuel in the tank and other gear in the boat your are over 2450.

College Kid
11-02-2012, 01:01 PM
Thanks for all the info guys,

the trailer was set up well for the boat, with the axle under the engine, and the bunks well adjusted to support the hull properly.

I agree thou, it is boarderline at best for the weight.

I do trailer quite a bit although it is only about 30 mins one ways down paved roads, and a bit of highway, so it is important that I have a reliable trailer.

TxsRiverRat
11-02-2012, 01:14 PM
Just pray you never have a blow out smh

College Kid
11-02-2012, 01:58 PM
Just pray you never have a blow out smh

Never thought of that!!!!!!

I am feeling that the rims might save me but I really want to go and measure now!!!